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Showing results for tags 'Subaru'.
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Hello all, This is my first Subaru so I'm sure there is a lot I don't know. I search for the answer before posting so please forgive me if I missed it. When Car reaches 45 it makes a chirp or squeal sound just once. I purchesed this 2 m ago from a local used car dealer. I took it back to them and they diagnosed the serpentine belt as the problem. Problem has not changed. Any ideas? 2011 outback 4 cyl -
okay so i have basically completed the ej swap, everything except the wiring. most the wiring is done but i cant get it to run. considering hiring somebody to troubleshoot. how much would somebody with ej wiring experience charge to come over and trouble shoot my wiring issues? I live in Woodinville thanks in advance
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Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
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Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
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I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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Got to work at the Subaru Technical Training Center in Aurora Co. Heidi gave me a personal tour. She thought I was going to have a heart attack....LOL. Loved it. New engines, New technology, hell I was even interested in the Hybrid demo table. Thanks, Subaru!!!!!!!!!!! -
My husband and I own a 2006 Baja w/ turbo. It has run great for a while, has some past issues that we thought were resolved shortly after purchase. We were currently debating on trading in for a newer subie that fits our needs better but have hit a major snag. It started throwing codes at us. We have gotten the PO303 code with no luck chasing down the issue. We changed the spark plugs, ran great for a few days, then code repeat. Change coil, ran fine for a few days, code repeat. Replaced cyl3 injector, ran good for a day. Then once again, code repeat. We have chased every rabbit hole we can think of and it seems to fix the problem for a very short period then poof, back to square one. My husband even tried unhooking the exhaust to to see if maybe we were catching the code from something in the cad converter. No luck. Now its back to doing exactly what it did when we first got the code. Rough idle, but has now acquired the problem of dying out when the clutch is depressed..... Any ideas or approaches you folks can think of? We dont have the money to dump a lot into this trying to chase down every possibility, but unless we have it running well, we have nothing to trade in to get even close to getting what we were after. Questions, comment, ideas are so very welcome and this point.... we have become extremely stressed over this issue..... -
I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum. -
Hey everyone, so I recently purchased a late 79 DL (1980) and was told that it wouldn't move from where it sat when I bought it because the brakes were seized.. so I went to inspect it and see what was wrong. I started it up and listened to that Subaru rumble for a bit (no exhaust) then put it in gear then it just drove perfectly fine.. until I pushed the brakes to pull off the highway, I noticed they were dragging a little bit so I stopped to look and the rear brakes were completely locked up by the time I got back in. But the next morning when I went to get the car it drove perfectly fine with no dragging on the brakes... I've never heard of anything like this happening so I thought id just ask you guys Thanks for any help guys and gals(: -
I have searched the forum but could not find a topic about my problem. My 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback will not start and the car alarm goes off now. A 10 amp fuse which was loose fell out from under the dashboard on the drivers side of the car. When I was putting the fuse back into the holder the car alarm went off. Now I can't start my car at all. I saw on another forum about a reset button. I can not locate a reset button instead there is a brown set of wires connected to what appears might have been the reset button. There is just a plastic molded round cap with two exposed terminals inside. Can someone hep out with this problem so I can have a car that works again. Thanks for the help -
So I've put up a go fund me and am hoping to get help from you guys! I am turning my 83 wagon into a rally car. Right now I am working on the weight reductions and the suspension. I'm hoping to participate in some races next spring and summer. It would be awesome to have a USMB rally car to get some attention to the forums. If it's allowed I will post the link below. Please tell me if it needs to be removed due to rules. If anyone could lend some time helping me with various things (Ideas on suspension, Ideas on weight reductions and drivetrains that might work with a higher powered EA81. I plan on getting most of the forged parts from RAM. Not sure about which turbo I want but will figure that out when the motor part of the build comes along. Here's the link if anyone wants to throw a few bucks towards this build. Any help at all... Even encouragement is greatly appreciated. http://www.gofundme.com/baja500racecar Any suggestions for body and paint? I am going to research bed liners and possible cover it in a rhino line... If it won't effect air and weight.
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Hey guys, so I've posted on here a lot about my old 95 Subaru Legacy L which recently broke down. Couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and had to get it towed 38 miles. It ended up being jumped timing. I reset the timing belt and she ran great again. I sold it for 1200$ (it had 270,000 miles on it) and bought this 95 Impreza L 1.8 liter. It only has 130,000 miles and has a clean body/interior and runs pretty good. I was tired of being worried about my legacy breaking down all the time. Anyways, so I'm wondering what I can do to squeeze a little more power out of this 1.8 liter. I know it's a smaller motor and makes less torque. But it's what I got now. Anyways, it's got a bit of a rough idle, not too bad, just bobs around at 5-600 RPMs or so, not perfect smooth like my 2.2 liter Legacy. I've been told it can be the IACV? and to clean it? Tried googling that to no avail. I've already done the normal stuff, new NGK spark plugs, fuel filter, wires, injector cleaner, cleaned MAF and throttle body, What else? I also transferred my custom catback exhaust and wheels, and just ordered a UEL header for it. Anyone got any good ideas to gain just a few HP and throttle response? What about a 2.2 swap or some kind of frankenbuild? My 95 Legacy was OBD2, but this 95 Impreza is OBD1 so I'm assuming I can't swap that. Can I swap a 2.2 from a first gen Leggy? What are my options? Thanks in advance.
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Wanna snorkel my brat, but with the weber it seems a little harder. Would be awesome if people would post theirs! Thanks - CL
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Wanna snorkel my brat, but with the weber it seems a little harder. Would be awesome if people would post theirs! Thanks - CL
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So I recently have found myself purchasing a 1997 Subaru Legacy L. I've never had a Subaru before always wanted one but could never afford one....or so I thought. For a whole 650$ I found my Subaru on Craig's list and started the wonderful journey of my project in motion. She is a 97 legacy L with the 2.2L 4cyl and I purchased her at 238xxx she's got 2425xx on her now and I adore it. At 3400 lbs her lol 2.2 puts out 160hp (obviously many people know this herejust stating what ice learned and done) I've replaced both struts in the rear with vsv struts off a 97 legacy GT AS WELL as a fuel sending unit from the same car. Pick and pull has been my friend for this. I need a new windshield front shocks and struts fix front differential tires and I'm sure much more. I've also have to get a rear bumper as I bought it without the bumper and a hitch attached I've contemplated doing an sti swap but not sure what I need. I've read I need an ECU motor rear differential and tranny along with wiring harness and clutch to do a manual tranny. I need some education and help with her. My name is weyland and this is my Subaru story. Any help and advice would bee greatful
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Ive been working on this buggy on and off for just over a year now. Its nowhere near done, and wont be anytime soon. It started as a 4 door 2000 2.5RS Impreza, and mechanically still is (dont let the 02 tails fool ya.. I just like them). Other than a slightly tweaked engine from the previous owner (bored, decked, 3-angle valve, port & polish, high compression pistons ). Ive also modified some stock 04 forester struts w/ 300lb front & 175lb rear 2.5" coilover springs. Current cost is just over $2k. Just passed emissions 2 days ago.
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So I am looking to buy another Subaru to replace my current daily driver and I need advice from experienced drivers who drive a Subaru as their daily driver. I'm stuck between 2 used Subarus. One is a 2008 Subaru Impreza 2.5i with 53,000 miles and the other is a 2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5GT with 97,000 miles. Now I'm not sure what I should be more concerned about, the year or the miles. I own a 2002 STi but it is a weekend car for me as i want to keep it in good condition. I take good care of my cars so I think both cars would last much longer than other cars but I need advice from drivers who are more experienced than me. I also created this topic for anyone else that needed advice on a Subaru purchase. Feel free to post -
I own both a Brat and a Baja- I thought this would be a pretty fun project. Enjoy.
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Hey everyone! Newbie here The name's Shikani, originally from Melbourne but now studying in Darwin! Since I'm in the NT I've bought a Subaru down here for pretty cheap! it's a 97 Forester and I love it Thought it would be a good idea to join a forum and meet other Subie lovers!
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I have a 97 impreza outback sport and yesterday the power started to cut in and out like a bad battery/ground connection. earlier that day I had swapped my battery with someone at the river that had left there lights on. and didn't have the proper tools to tighten it back up so that's what I thought was happening. but I start to smell soothing burning and notice a light from a fire by my feet. so I stopped to check it out at and notice it was my clutch cable arcing and almost catching fire. I do notice when I push down on the clutch just a nuff that the peddle meets the cable it stops and I regain power as if it is grounded -
im offering single port unequal length headers for EJ 2.2 motors. in both stainless and aluminized steel. tig welded with mandrel bends. everything is made in house, flanges are water jet cut, it will bolt to factory subaru exhaust. i am located in st helens oregon 97051 store pick ups are welcome to order you may call 503 750 nine eight 4 two or email sube4x4@gmail.com my current website is www.infernofab.com the current prices are Stainless Steel: 260.00 + 40.00 for shipping. aluminized are 200.00 + 40.00 for shipping pricing may change afer i get my webstore online. i will be offering flanges mandrel bends and collectors as well as straight tube.
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Hey there! I'm looking for a set of front shocks for a 1968 Subaru 360! OR An equivalent or simple substitution that would work. Either way! Nate -
I just bought a 97 obw and I know little about it but im learning as I go, so far I have replaced my trunk latching stops or whatever they are called with newer ones from a newer obw to remove the trunk rattle, had a bad squeal on startup from my starter so im replacing that, my idle has been all over the place even at walking speed and anytime i move to neutral when coasting and such I checked my mass airflow sensor and its clean as a whistle so Im assuming its the throttle control module so I ordered that and am ready to replace. another issue is my rear wiper doesnt work and when I try and turn it on a strange buzzing noise comes from my left and behind me but not all the way at the back it sounds like something in the back passenger door or something wiring related any ideas? and last but not least my clutch pedal squeaks like a hamster in heat... any permanent fix for this? thanks MrLinfoot -
I purchased the car used about 6 months ago and had $2,500 worth of work done on it to get it through inspection. It seemed fine after that other than the shaking issue, but a few months later I also began to have acceleration issues. I had an oil change done in October at which time I also paid $50 for a diagnostic test and was told that I needed a new battery. But other than that I was not told that there is anything wrong with the car. I assume that the mechanic probably thought that my issues were linked to needing a new battery, and I honestly thought the same. However I basically continue to have the same issues even with a new battery. That being said, does anyone have any idea why the car may be shaking while idling, for instance while stopped at a traffic light, or why it may have trouble accelerating, and/or should I even bother to have it diagnosed again? Note that the car does have about 177,000 miles on it. If any more information is needed let me know. -
Hey, I'd really appreciate if anyone could help me understand what's going on with my 1996 Subaru Sportswagon (boxer 2.0L)? Essentially, it starts perfectly and will run perfectly while cold although as soon as it starts getting warm, the engine loses its power and the car idles really rough. This will last until the engine is properly warm. A few times I've been driving and it's been so bad before that the car has actually stalled and won't start again for about 10-20 seconds. I've asked a few people and have had a range of answers like "ignition, exhaust flow sensor, coolant temperature sensor, bad plugs/leads, choke flooding the engine, wrong fuel-air mixture. While it could be one or a couple of those things, I'd love to know why the car is having trouble during the engine warming process and at no other time. If someone could give me a hand it'd be much appreciated! Cheers, Bobby
