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First Post on this forum. Just over a year ago i bought this super awesome little car from a buddy that had it sitting for over a year. I gave him 500 bucks for it knowing that it would need work and it would be good work on a good car. 260,000 Miles. We had some electrical issues from the start. Battery, alt and several bits of wiring harness were replaced. A/c recharge worked very well. Power steering fluid leak, slow, but leaks. The fuel filler neck was barely there at all. Replaced it with a fuel friendly rubber hose. No it's not perfect, but it cost me 1.20. I thought that the gas smell would go away... The biggest issue has always been the gas smell that permeates the car. I've been told to check several things, and my last to check will be the fuel diaphragm. There is a rubbing sound from the speed cable, occasionally. Then everything was dreamy. I got to really love the car. Then it crapped on me. Head gasket blew and I wasn't in a financial place to have it done. I decided to try to fix it myself. The first three bolts were so rusted on, it took me 3 hours to get them off. I decided to scrap the car. Then a guy calls me in the middle of the night and tells me to put this super duper miracle head gasket repair one step into it. No. Normally I would not, but I did. And holy crap it worked. IT WORKED. well enough for me to get a few more months out of the car before.... I have no clue what's going on right now. Head is fine. Oil and coolant are great. No leaks. Radiator cracked on the top, assuming that the miracle liquid clogged something it shouldn't have and now the system MAY be able to be flushed. I'm going to basically tear this baby down over the next week or so and repair any gasket and rebuild any pump and clean every nook of it. My reason for getting onto the forum is actually to ask about parts interchangeability. I have access to several subarus that have been junked or being parted out, with almost no cost to me other than a long drive. Id really just like to know what other years and models I'd be able to pull parts from. Body parts, I'm not concerned about, except I'd like to pick up a new headlight, but all i can find near me are 99 legacy headlights. any filler would be appreciated.

Hey guys, I've got a 2005 Legacy (limited). It's a project car and I'd eventually like to swap my engine out for a WRX engine. I know it'll be a pain in the a**, but it's still possible right? My boyfriend wants to put a 2.5 liter in it but I think it should just stay as 2.2 for the sake of having to modify the cross member. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions? Again, it's a project car so I'm willing to put the time into it. I personally wouldn't be doing the swap. I've other connections but I'd just like some opinions. Thanks!

So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.

I have a 1998 legacy brighton with a bad 2.2l motor and manual trans. I also have a 1998 legacy gt that has been wrecked with a rebuilt 2.5l and manual trans I would like to know what kind of problems I might have if I put the 2.5l in place of the 2.2l Some of my concerns are first the wiring for the motor, will it match, also brain, can i just unplug one an change the other on in, and also exhaust headers are they the same or would I need to change them. What things would need changed and how much of a job is this. Is this something I should consider as i can by 2.2l engines cheaper than the 2.5l so should I just go that route. any one that has done this or knows anything that could help me is invited to do so. thanks jbowone

Hey all, Just wondering what the possibilities are regarding swapping an 09 xt forester 2.5l turbo into say an older ( **** - 2008) forester, liberty, outback, wrx etc? any quid pro quos or pitfalls that would make it overly difficult?

Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?

Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine In this Writeup you'll find The Basics: ► A complete installation Guide. ► Solving problems untold by the Manuals. ► Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 Feet (2000 Mts) Altitude. ► Proper routing for the P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System's Hoses. The Advanced: ► A much better Adapter Plate than the one designed for the EA82. ► What to do with the ASV, EGR, etc... The Optional: ► Installing an Oil Catch Can on the P.C.V. System. ► Distributor's Advance Modifications. ► intake Manifold Modifications. ► ignition Coil upgrade. ► Exhaust Piping Modifications. ► ...and Much More! Pay attention to the "Important Notes" Introduction: On early 2006 I Swapped a progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor on my 1985 Subaru White Wagon (which isn't white anymore),, that swap job required more things to be done than what the Manual included with the kit, stated; so I'll explain here everything that is needed to successfully do the Swap, and I will add Photos describing all the problems I faced and the ideas I had to solve them; Hoping that this writeup will Help you to Swap a Weber carburetor on an EA82 Subaru engine, flawlessly. Many of the Ideas that I explain here, are also aplicable to the older Subaru EA81 engine as well, basically talking, almost everything except the adapter plate. REMEMBER: Use this Ideas at your Own Risk! First of All: the Redline-Weber K-731 Kit, which is designed to install a Weber carburetor on the Subaru EA82 carbureted Engines, came with the following items: A Progressive Weber 32/36 Carburetor, an Air Filter Box plus its element, a Throttle Cable Bracket, some Gaskets and a two plate Adapter, which consists on one Lower plate designed to be mounted directly to the intake manifold, and one Upper plate, designed to be mounted over said Lower plate; this last one receives the studs which are intended to Hold the Weber Carburetor in place; and needs the Gaskets inbetween ... Also this kit, comes with a bag with different screws and the studs. All the Weber carburetors that are Sold in the USA, comes with a sticker with a Statement that says something like: "For Racing -or Offroading- Purposes Only" due to Smog, pollution and other Legal Regulations which varies from State to State, so They're Not "Street Legal" on certain areas and that statement shall be placed on all brand new Weber Carburetors, due to said Legal Regulations; so you must be sure that you are legally allowed to do this Swap on the Area where you Live, prior to start. Determining which type of Weber carburetor you do Need There are many different Weber Carburetors' Designs on the market, however the two models used more often on Subaru Engines, are those who features two Barrels. (Forget about using a single barrel carburetor on these Subaru engines, simply it doesn't worth the effort.) Basically talking, there are two variations of the two barrel design on Weber Carburetors, that works good with these Subaru engines, one design is known as the Progressive Models (being the most popular, the 32/36 DEGV) and the other design is known as the Synchronous Models (being the most popular, the 38/38 DGAS). Each of the two barrels, has its own butterfly that opens / closes according to the Throttle position; if you want to be Sure which model you do have, just take a look at the Linkage that opens the butterflies between both Barrels, it is located behind the throttle plate: If Both Butterflies on both barrels, opens at the same time, always when the throttle position moves, it is a Synchronous Weber (like the 38/38 DGAS); But if one barrel's butterfly starts to open only after the other one have already reached the half way open, then it is a Progressive Weber. (like the 32/36 DEGV). The Synchronous Webers, like the 38/38, are used mainly for Racing purposes due to the Higher Fuel usage (Both identical barrels works / opens at the Same Time, all the time), and thus means that if you use a Car with such kind of carburetor as daily driver / commuter, it will become a Gas guzzler. The Progressive Webers, like the 32/36, are used for all mixed driving needs, as you commute using only one barrel which is known as the Primary -Low- Stage (usually with a Smaller Jetting); and the other barrel, which is known as the Secondary -High- Stage (usually with a Bigger Jetting) is only in use during deep accelerations, so you have the Best Balance between Power and Fuel Consumption. I chose a Progressive 32/36 Weber carburetor, which is, in my own humble opinion, the best option in Carburetor that you can choose for this retrofitting job; however this writeup is still applicable, if you have a synchronous Weber. That been said, lets Begin to explain the Problems I Faced during the Swap Job, and How I Solved them. ~► First Problem: The Lousy Adapter Plate. As I stated above, the K-731 kit that I obtained from Redline Weber, came with a Lousy Adapter, conformed by two separate Plates, Lower plate and Upper plate, each one has its own flaws ... ... The Lower Plate needs four screws to be Held properly in place, directly bolted to the intake manifold; each screw has a cone shaped, flat top head, whose angle is approximately 60° and is designed to fit on the also cone-shaped seats of the plate's openings; the matching angles holds that plate in place. Then comes the Upper plate, which goes directly bolted to the Lower plate; finally, the Weber carburetor mounts on that Upper Plate. The Flaws of the two-Plate adapter: While the weak thin walls on the threaded openings for the Studs, is the main flaw on the Upper plate, (Look for further information and photos regarding the Upper plate, on the following post of this writeup); the way to bolt the Lower plate to the intake, is another flaw, let me explain: The Redline-Weber K-731 kit came with two different sets of screws provided to bolt the Lower Plate of the adapter, to the intake manifold; one set of four silver screws, comes with the appropriate size and pitch for the Subaru EA82 intake manifold's threads (6 mm ~ 1/4"), but the heads of those thin screws are very small, around the half size of the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate. The other set of four black Screws provided, are thicker (8 mm ~ 5/16") and their heads fills completely the cone shaped seats on the lower adapter plate; but their thread and pitch are big and do not fit on the intake manifold's threads. Here you can see a comparison photo, of one of the silver 6 mm screws (I call it "Subaru Standard" screw) provided, next to one of the black 8 mm screws (I call it "Weber Special" screw) provided, for the same Lower plate: (sorry for my Cheapo Cellphone's camera photo) It is impossible to bolt in a ►"safe"◄ way, the Lower plate to the intake Manifold using the thinner 6 mm screws provided; but I bet that they included both sets, in order to let the unexperienced or Lazy mechanics / owners, to swap the carb fast and easy. Those tiny silver screws will make the first plate to get Loose, developing vacuum leaks sooner or later, because their small size, makes the screws to have enough room inside the plate's opening, to move and slowly unscrew, from the engine's inherent vibrations; it's only a matter of time. Also the tiny silver screws only covers half of the seat, on the openings of the lower plate, making a weak union. I already faced a vacuum leak: I was unexperienced when I did my first Weber swap, years ago, and I used the tiny silver screws as they matched the threaded openings on the intake manifold... it developed a Vacuum Leak between the intake and the lower plate, in less than a couple of months, despite that it was bolted tight, using a shellac smeared gasket. After that vacuum leak, I removed the intake manifold to check the install, and then I understood the reason why they put a second set of screws by seeing how loose the Lower plate became with the tiny silver screws... I decided to use the Bigger diameter black Screws, instead. In the Photo Below, you can see how the Heads of the silver 6 mm (~1/4") screws, doesn't fit properly on the cone shaped seats of the lower plate adaptor; they only covers the half from the cone seat and their heads doesn't fill completely the space of the opening in that plate. Next to it, you can see how the Heads of the black 8 mm (~5/16") screws, really fits perfectly there, they sits on the whole cone shaped base, while filling completely the opening, giving a much safer flush mount, which prevents the screws from getting loose with time and vibrations, as they doesn't have space for moving, because the Upper plate will be placed over them. So, some modifying job to the intake manifold is required for sure, if you want reliabilty: to drill and tap it, re-threading the intake manifold's threads to match the size of the bigger black screws provided, in order to use them to bolt the Lower plate properly, and firmly in place. To make those Bigger diameter black screws to fit, You will need to Drill and tap new Bigger Threads to the intake manifold, but Be Careful when doing that: The intake manifold is also a coolant crossover, so you must take the proper depth measurements to avoid drilling onto a water passage. I Kindly Suggest you to remove the whole intake manifold from the Engine, prior to do the rethreading. Here you can see how the intake Manifold originally was, right after removing the old Craptachi carb and gasket, just before removing it from the Engine: I took off the whole intake manifold to Drill the New Oversized Threads From 6 mm (~ 1/4") to about 8 mm (~ 5/16") Also I Sent the intake manifold to a Machine shop, to polish the flatness of the Carb's base: Here, you can see how the Bigger black screws Now fits perfectly there: Then, I Washed clean the intake manifold using Household Detergents, to remove any debris Important note: I kindly suggest you, that the inbetween gaskets should be placed Smeared (the two faces) with a thin layer of Shellac, because shellac is Coolant / Oil \ Gasoline Resistant (more info on Shellac ~►Here) other gasket makers will fail in that place; the idea is to avoid any kind of Vacuum leaks. ~► Second Problem: To Seal the (Now Unused) Water Passage for the Old Craptachi Carb. If this procedure is not done right, the cooling system will spill coolant on the intake manifold, right to the carb's base opening, so be Careful! My first solution was to place the Gasket completely smeared with Shellac over that water opening, and also I cut in half the tiny Hose which supplies coolant for that Passage, and cap closed both ends of said hose, using screws and clamps... That lazy solution worked fine for five years, but you must consider that there is still a coolant flow inside the water crossover of the intake manifold; so there still will be coolant flowing on that Area, even without said hose. You might use Cold Welding Compound such like the 4 minutes "JB Weld" to fill close that opening ... as I wrote, I ran my subie for years with only a Shellac smeared gasket and a removed hose without problems, but that setup was about to Fail after five years. Continue reading, in further posts of this writeup I will show you another Idea which is a definitive and permanent solution for this problem. After placing the Gasket, smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween the intake and the first plate, I bolted it there: (Notice the Bigger Screws and how their Heads fills the Plate's openings) Then, the Upper plate went over that first one, Also with a gasket smeared with Shellac on both sides, inbetween: And Then you can place the Weber Carburetor. ~► Third Problem: Power Steering Equiped Models. If your EA82 engined Subaru, has a Power Steering Pump, the Choke's Spring mechanism on the Weber Carb, will hit the Power Steering Pump's reservoir ... ... and even removing the Choke's Spring, the base for the said spring, impacts the bolt's head at the back of the power steering pump. (Here, the Choke spring was already Removed from the Weber Carburetor) At the Caribbean Tropics of Honduras, we don't need the choke too much, so... ► My first solution was to Remove the Choke's Spring, but it wasn't enough: also I had to cut Half of the head from one of the Steering Pump's Rear Bolts, to prevent the Base for said choke's spring from hitting it. ► A second Solution consist in, besides from removing the above mentioned Spring, to Completely Remove its Base from the Carb, along the choke's Butterflies (or choke plates), so you don't need to cut nothing. ► A third solution done by other persons, is to install the Weber Backwards, with the Choke facing the windshield instead to the front; it is doable, but in my own humble opinion, it might lead to another complex set of Problems. You can see photos and read further, in this example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156836-installing-weber-3236-backwards/ ► After lots of Research, I found a fourth and definitive Solution, which is easier than all the others. Continue reading, because in the next posts Nº 2 and 3 of this writeup I'll explain with details this better Solution ... ... which does Not require to modify, to cut nor to remove anything, so you can keep the Weber carburetor with a working Choke on the Models that features Power Steering, as easy and simple as install and go. Hooking properly the Accelerator Cable I installed on the Weber Carb, the throttle's Cable Plate Taken From the old Craptachi carb... ...Plus the part of it that works with the Air Conditioner Accelerator Actuator, which with a simple twist on its metal plate (due to the new carb's different angle) I managed to made it work good. The K-731 kit from Redline-Weber, also includes a Bracket to hold the Accelerator's Cable in Place, you must install it Carefully without Bending it, on the two rear screws that holds the Carburetor, on the Adapter plate; and you'll notice that the Accelerator's Pedal really covers the complete Acceleration Travel on the Weber Carburetor. In case said Bracket is bent Towards the Carburetor, the accelerator's Pedal will never get the Full Acceleration from the Carburetor because the Cable doesn't go Back enough to fully Open the Secondary -High- stage; in that case you'll need to bend it back; but Never do it when it is installed, it could damage the Adapter Plates; so take the Bracket out and bend it there. Once the Bracket is properly set, the accelerator pedal provides full travel for the accelerator on the Weber carburetor. So, the Intake Manifold + the twin Adapter Plates + the 32/36 progressive Weber Carburetor + the accelerator cable's Bracket behind, ended looking in this Way: (Yes: Those are my dirty Hands) Once installed, the EA82 Engine started at the Very First Try and Purred like a Kitten... a Boxer Kitten! ... ... you know. The Weber carb reveals somehow the Hiding potencial of the engine, and the Boxer Rumble Sound of the Carburated EA82's at its Best! ... ... While lets you Clean the crowded engine bay, removing lots of unused smog stuff. It is a Win-Win Deal for sure. I Noticed a Huge Improvement inmediately! ... Summarized in a quicker Engine Response and Faster Acceleration, smoother Idle and a really noticeable Better Low end torque. Fuel Consumption remains close to the Stock Specs ... (if you drive carefully) ... but the Weber swap could make you to want to keep the gas pedal floored ... ... in that case, fuel consumption will increase for sure

I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful.

Hi subaru folks, I just adquired an '87 Subaru Libero, and apparently the engine block is cracked, so I tryed to find the same engine on my country's (Spain) but since I imported the car from Germany and this car wasn't sold here, there is no chance to find one here. I goggled a little and it seems that this engine ,E12, is the same 1.2cc 3 cyl. block than the used at the Subaru Justy, wich was sold in Spain, I found some of those engines from wrecked cars, but I have some doubts here that you may solve: -The engine codes I found were EF12 instead E12, apparently its all similar, naturally aspirated, carburator, no electronic engine management, so no ecu, etc, but; I would like to know if my gearbox housing is the same, and if I would find any problem with the starter pinions/ring or the cranck size/pinions, etc. Aswell, this EF12 has around 20 more hp, and im guessing if that would cause any issue on the Libero's gearbox. Thx.

This is probably a stupid question but..... I just about finished the ej22 swap into my loyale everything was going smoothly until my fuel pump stopped working again. the relay clicks when turned to start like it should but the fuel pump is not priming anymore. will i be needing to replace the fuel pump or is it more of a wiring issue? also i do have spark so i don't think its an ecu issue. any help would be greatly appreciated

okay so i have basically completed the ej swap, everything except the wiring. most the wiring is done but i cant get it to run. considering hiring somebody to troubleshoot. how much would somebody with ej wiring experience charge to come over and trouble shoot my wiring issues? I live in Woodinville thanks in advance

I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost

I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks

Hey everyone! This is the biography of my first car. Well, This is part biography, part pre-death obituary. By now, my Legacy Outback has carried me 18,000 miles. Its on its second engine as far as I know, and will always have a pace in my heart. If you live in or around the Wales, (western) New York area, youve probably seen or heard me. I apologize for that, the new exhaust is kinda obnoxious. I bought the car out of an ad in the Buffalo News in December of 2013, from a lady around Derby, NY. At the time, it only had 72,4xx miles on it! Checked it out on a saturday, picked it up the next tuesday. I found a receipt in the glove box for the inspection of the previous year, with 72,076 miles. She only drove it about 300 miles in an entire year! Low mileage Subarus are near impossible to find, so I thought I had the best 97 ever!

Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?

Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?

What year (years) WRX would be what I need to do a whole drivetrain swap for my 1998 Outback Legacy Wagon? I want to make a real sleeper. Looking the same but loads of power, brakes, etc. Any links to projects like this appreciated. Anyone on here do similar? Thanks in advance! Michael

After doing some searching myself, I find that there's some good info out there among the Subie sites on swapping newer Suspension components into older Subies. I'm looking to swap out my city beaten 98 GF8 suspension, so I've done some info gathering and have come up with a pool of useful links for your typical GC8 or GF8 swaps. Maybe you'd like a lift for trail trekking, nab some Fozzie struts (Forester). Most Subie compents will bolt up, if not with some coaxing. I'd like to hear from some members that have done these kinds of swaps themselves, on what worked out for them and what didn't. Ideally, I'd appreciate a first hand account of the work and end result. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18820009&postcount=7 General info on modifying the suspension on 93-2001 Impreza's of all trims Which came from this "will this suspension part fit my x Subaru?" http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18820009#post18820009 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118004-the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread/ the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t70898-diy-strut-spring-install-pics.html diy-strut-spring-install http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1589951 Assembling front strut http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45743 Info on Legacy strut top hats and springs, needed to fit GD WRX rear struts into a GC8/GF8 (at least that's one route) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t109573-forester-struts-impreza-gc8.html forester-struts-impreza-gc8 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2279833 What USDM Springs/Struts Will Fit a JDM '94 GC8? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f24/t96397-04-wrx-suspension-into-gf8.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1980173 GD suspension on a GC http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t200479-02-wrx-front-struts-l-rear.html Saggy rear, wrx front struts and stock rear struts http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1429052 Trailing link install tutorial

Hello, First post on this Forum! It has been killing me on my 1997 Subaru outback to get the pin connections out of the baby blue B84 connector. I am trying to ground out Pin #81 to remove the CEL for the egr valve. The previous owner swapped the 2.5 for a 2.2. They changed the original automatic transmission to a 5 speed, so I am getting the CEL for the EGR because originally the car had a EGR valve but the new 2.2 does not have an EGR. So after hours of research I found if you ground out Pin 81 at the ECU it will tell the ECU that the car is a manual and does not require an EGR. Here in lies the problem, I for the life of me can not get the pins to release to move them! Could some one please let me know the secret to releasing the pins! I have stuck tiny screwdrivers in every hole and cant get one to release, there is not wire retainers to release. If you look at the pic below you can see what connector I am trying to work with. Thanks! connector.pdf

Hey all. JUst did an EJ18 in a 87 GL-10. Runs great but I've got the typical non-op tachometer after hooking up the EJ ECU. This isn 't a big deal, but the owner would like to get it working at some point. I know this has been solved by some of the awesome electro-techno guys on here. Anybody got a solution for me? Hook it up to the coil directly? Some kind of modifier circuit? Thanks in advance.

I have my flame suit on so here goes... I've searched for the past 4 hours on here for EJ22 to EJ20T swap threads and came up empty handed. I'm looking to swap an EJ20T from a WRX 02-05 into my 99 OBS with an EJ22 to bring her up to spec with how she was supposed to be imported here into the states before the bureaucraps got in the way! Need to find a build thread which outlines which components I need to grab from the other car. It's my understanding I would only need the Engine (duh), the exhaust components for turbo operation, and the ECM. Does the 99 OBS harness plug directly into the WRX ECM/Engine Harness or do i need to do a harness swap? I have a good line on an EJ20T longblock with a TD0520g turbo, but has rod knock which I can rebuild no problem, have a shop with lift and cherry picker and am not in a hurry so I can build the engine/exhaust etc off the car until ready for install. I am just trying to avoid making a big mistake from a technical oversight with compatibility or missing something obvious. Thanks for the help, and yes I'm sure there is a thread buried out there somewhere.

Greetings, This time I am trying to do my Best to help a Friend, Mr. Mariano, who owns a 1980 Subaru GFT-5 Coupé, which came factory with an EA71 engine that features Twin Hitachi carburator setup. Here is a Photo of his Subie: Here's a Photo of that Subie's Engine Bay: Photos of the Actual factory intake manifold: He is in the middle of the Restoration process of that Subaru, and he really wants to get rid of those hitachi craps that seems like now they're bad beyond any repair, he dreams about to obtain a single carb intake manifold that fits his Subie's engine and fit there a Weber Carb. He already obtained a 32/36 Weber and the Trans-Dapt 2107 adaptor, also he obtained a Single carb intake that was sold to him as "For the Subaru 1600" which is the EA71, but the intake was longer, so we believe it was for the EA81 ... and he already welded with aluminium the Trans-Dapt adaptor to that unuseful -for him- intake manifold, as you can see... By seeing this Photos and seeing the Position of the Starter behind the engine, on a side, I want to Ask (To be sure): ► is that a Fat Case EA71, isn't it? ► Does the Twin Carb EA71's comes with Reversed Valves as the Twin Carbs EA81's does? Here is a Photo of his Original Owner's Manual about the Valves (in Spanish): Words in spanish over the Valve's drawing means: "Exhaust Valves" while words in spanish under same drawing says "Intake Valves". The main Question could be: ► Will a Single Carb EA71 intake manifold fit right to this engine, or not? Due to the Lack of Spare parts, we were crossing Private Messages, planning to cut the Upper part of the EA81 intake, along the welded adaptor, and cut the upper part of the Twin Carb EA71 intake, and weld the EA81 part to the Twin carb EA71 one, without touching the Water passage... Sounds crazy enough, isn't it? Please let us Know your Ideas about that, and the Answers to our Questions, which will be Greatly appreciated. Kind regards.

New to Subaru, so bare with me. Im buying my buddys wifes 99 2.5 RS coupe. Shes an idiot who ran it till it blew up and now needs a new motor. I have a line on an STi motor and tranny, but not sure if the tranny will fit in the RS. Anyone know if it will fit or what needs to be changed so that it will?

So I got an 86 GL that has terribly blown head gasket or cracked head (quart of water mixed in oil), and I want to put my good Block from my 88 DL parts car into it and just put all the carb'd stuff off the blown engine and put in all onto the good shortblock. Is there any difference between an SPFI block and heads and a Carburated block and heads? -They're both Manual and both non-power steering Thanks everyone for any input!

1996 Nissan Maxima Alternator 125 amp from junkyard in Portland $25 + 7 core. Pulley is from 1965 chevy alternator "externally regulated". Adapter pigtail used to allow for easy swap back should it fail. "Custom Bracket extension" necessary for install.