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Showing results for tags 'Timing belt'.
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Ok so I was wondering if I my timing belt in my 84 GL Wagon EA81 is an actual belt or if its a chain. And if it is a chain do I need to change it?
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Hello everyone, As a student with my beloved subie I'm doing my best to keep it going as long as possible - I really plan to drive it into the ground, provided I don't start working first. My obs engine died on the highway @ 70 mph cruise control a few days ago. My mech says a timing belt replacement, along with a new water pump, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, ignition wires are needed. I'm going to the garage to check out my engine - I expect it to not look that great, but hope it salvageable. I expected to change my timing belt soon but tuition trumped it last month. Thes OBSs rock. Just had to whine to some experts that understand this condition. -
I've got a 91 Loyale (5speed, ea82, non-turbo, 4wd) and it died last week, and won't start. After some research on here and playing around under the hood and seeing that the distributor rotor didn't spin, I found that the driver's side timing belt had snapped. I found milesfox's Timing belt replacement guide which is plenty thorough to get me through the process with my small amount of knowledge I think, but I've got a few questions. ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/48359-timing-belt-procedure-ea82/ ) First, the previous owner replaced the timing belts and resealed the engine right before he sold the car to me which is somewhere between 15000-20000 miles ago, so not very long for a timing belt to snap. So, what causes a timing belt snap and are there things I should be looking at that could have caused this problem? Second, is it totally necessary to remove the engine or radiator to do this job? Is it either/or ? If I have to remove the engine i'm not going to try this one myself, but if i can just pull the radiator out i will probably try it. Thanks!
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I have a 97 Impreza L, the 2.2 (SOHC) , and I'm half way through the timing belt change and this is the first time I've attempted a repair like this. I've been using this guide as my main guide for the whole project: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html. I've also pulled information from other various forums (here) and have the service manual downloaded. I've run into the problem when aligning the passenger side camshaft to put the new belt on. I have the crank cam and the drivers side cam in the proper position. I was using a torque wrench to rotate the cams. When I started (slowly) rotating the passenger side cam, I got about a quarter of the way around fighting compression, and once I moved past the resistance it spun all the way around by itself because of the ratcheting effect on the torque wrench and settled pretty close to where I wanted it to be for the timing marks. The cam pulley has a little bit of play, I can rotate it about an inch left or right with no resistance and I can even line up the timing marks and put the belt where it needs to be. I didn't notice this play before, but I don't really remember checking. The pulley also seems to wiggle a little where as my driver side pulley does not. My concern is the play in the passenger side camshaft pulley. I'm afraid there may be other problems that I don't have the knowledge to see. When I was trying to rotate it and it took over and spun all the way around it was unnerving because of the sudden loud ratchet sound from my torque wrench. It wasn't something I was expecting or had seen anyone mention. Can I just align everything and start putting it all back together? Is that how a camshaft is supposed to rotate? -
The Basics: 1993 Legacy Wagon. 2.2 engine with 109k on it. Automatic transmission. AWD. So we pulled the engine using the instructions from http://beergarage.com/ and YouTubes from the MercedesDieselGuy. The instructions we all good, but Beergarage was pulling a Stick shift and the Videos were great but glossed over a few points that I NOW know. I need advise on two different points. 1. One of the things that I missed in pulling it apart was removing the 4 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter. When we pull it apart the TC was still attached to the Flywheel. Before we reassembled, I pull the TC off and then feed it back onto the transmission spindle and rotated it until is seated all the way back on the spindle.After getting it all back together and turning the engine over for the timing test, a big puddle of ATF appeared on the floor...... HELP 2. After: carefully getting the crank shaft spindle lined up on the TDC mark; AND both cam spindles lined up on the top center marks on the cover; AND getting the timing belt marks all lined up on the spindles and marks; AND all the of the engine put back together - We cranked it over and it would not start. We rechecked all the wiring plugs and hose connections and tried again. Still no luck. What am I missing????? Thanks in advance for your HELP! Patrick -
I have a 2007 Legacy 2.5L that is due for a timing belt change, I have never had a Subie before,and the set-up of these engines is new to me. I'm not doing the work myself,. I'm thinking of taking it to the Subaru dealer to have it done, since so many people say to use OEM parts. I guess their is a benefit to doing this, I was wondering, when changing the belt, aside from the water pump, and I heard the tensioner is a good idea, what else would be good preventive measures for this vehicle. I just need some good advice because it's quite a bit of money, and I want to do what's best for longevity, I hope to get this car to 200,000 miles, I hope that is realistic. Thanks. -
Howdy folks, Newbie here. I need to inspect my timing belt---suspected jumped a tooth... see earlier posts by me in the last couple of days if you're interested in the full saga. I removed radiator, accessory belts already. Last step before removing timing belt cover is the crankshaft pulley, and I don't know how to get it off. I began following this tutorial by MercedesDieselGuy on youtube He advocates a bit of a redneck method for loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt (bracing a breaker bar against the body and cranking the motor for a split-second). I applied WD-40 beforehand and followed his advice; it loosened up with no problem. (It was only later that I came across this thread where user Alias20035 said (s)he doesn't like that technique, but as far as I can tell I didn't bork it). I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt entirely, and the pulley itself stays in place. It rotates just fine (I'm using an old leather belt & vice-grips), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it to slide out. MercedesDieselGuy, in the youtube link above, recommends turning the pulley clockwise to align the hash mark with the "0" reading stamped on the timing belt cover. (Later in the vid he seems to change his mind; thinks that step may be unnecessary). In any case, I did that (using a white paint mark I found on the front face & grooves of the pulley) and it doesn't seem to help with yanking the pulley. The timing belt cover seems to be plastic---so there was nothing solid to brace against when I tried wiggling a prybar gently. Other notes: the grooves at the back of my pulley are banged up, a couple of chips, making me think previous owner &/or a sloppy mechanic had the same trouble I am having, and tried brute force. Finally, I used a small mirror and my headlamp to get a good look at the pulley's center hole. I can see a notch at the back of the pulley on one side; hard to tell if it's part of pulley or another component/bushing behind it. But if I slowly turn the pulley with my belt wrench while watching with the mirror, I can see the notch rotates with the pulley. Is that back notch the "crank key" referred to in the thread I linked above? Any advice on how to get this dang thing off? Is there a trick to it? Thank you! -
I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html -
I recently replaced my timing belt and pulleys, oil pump, water pump, cam seals, main seal and thermostat (thanks for the videos miles fox!) When i first started the car the passenger side timing belt pulled backwards towards the firewall on the cam pulley and is was riding pretty close to the edge of the pulley. I turned the car off and loosened the tensioner and pulled the belt back to the center of the pulley. when i started the car again the belt went immediately back to riding on the edge of the cam pulley. any ideas? Also terrible gas mileage before and after this job circa 15mpg in the city any ideas on this? edit = car is a 5mt 4wd loyale with 261k, the repair was originally initiated from a ball bearing falling out of my oil pump. thanks! -
Hey guys, first time poster long time reader. Title says it. Was cursing along and poof there goes the timing belt, heard squealing and immediately dropped the clutch to the floor, belt snapped and engine stopped silently and I glided to the shoulder. I've done a lot of reading and understand I have an interference engine and the chances of damaged valves are very high.. I have been doing a lot of thinking and have found a few options so I am seeking some advice. My options are: A) Replace timing belt and hope for the best B ) Assume damaged valves, remove heads and order new valves, gaskets, etc.. C) Assume damaged valves and replace heads with two used ones I sourced locally ($125 each + machining + gaskets) D) I also sourced an EJ22 locally for $600, it has considerably less km (116,000km) than mine (273,000km) but I would need a shop to do labour (cost??). E) Scrap it, buy a Yaris and cry myself to sleep I bought the car for $2000 from someone with no mechanical knowledge, I did a lot of work, wheel bearing, brakes, exhaust, etc.. and drove it clean across the continental US from British Columbia, down to Cali across to NY and back up to Nova Scotia. It worked like a dream! It's rust free and I'd like to see it on the road again! Needless to say id like to do this as cheaply as possible. I have never done anything this complex but I have the mechanical confidence to dive in. Any info or experiences will help. THANKS! -
First post here but I have been loving this board for a few weeks now. I have a 97 Brighton that has always run wonderfully, temp. gauge never budged, ever, idles so quietly that I have forgot once at work and left it on. Super reliable car and of course I do very regular maintenence. My problem is that a few weeks ago I started it in the garage and its normaly quiet idle quickly developed a squeaking almost scraping sound that got worse for about 20 seconds and then, for the first time ever, the motor kind of gently just chugged to a stop. Of course this sounds a lot like a timing belt issue except that the car did the same exact thing, made the same alarming noise once about a week before this but the first time I jumped in and gave it a little gas and when the RPMs died down it smoothed out. It did not do this again until a week later when the car died. Now the car cranks like crazy but just wont catch and start. I've checked the following. It is getting gas past the fuel filter. It is getting spark. I pulled out the cranck position and camshaft sensorand cleaned them both up, they were pretty filthy. I did pop in new plugs and wires just in case (the old plugs looked pretty bad.). I removed one side of the timing belt cover (passenger side) and the belt seems tight and actually looks pretty new. I really do not know when any of this stuff was done on this car. I bought this car with 234,000 on it and currently it has 280,000 so I know it is is up there but it ran so well and at one point was my families only ride and we grew to love the car ( Its OK, laugh, I know it sounds silly ) that I would really like to keep it going. If I can get it running we would become a two Subaru family. we cant really afford a second car right now but I could spend a little on this.The motor sure did not run, up to this point, like it was tired or long in the tooth. Is it possible that it could be anything other than the timing belt ? Would it be worth the $200.00 plus for me to throw in a new timing belt kit just to find out if that is it and/or are my vaves smashed. Are the valves automatically toast even if it fails at idle ?? Insight from more experienced minds would be much appreciated. -
Hello! I am new to this forum and I am looking for a place for help with my Subaru and ones belonging to my friends. I have a problem now and I need help! Let me preface this by saying I am an ASE and Honda master technician but I have very little experience with Subaru's. While I'm confident I can fix this car I want to know what I am looking at. A friend of mine has a 2003 Subaru Baja with what a believe is an ej25 (correct me if i'm wrong). While driving at interstate speeds and under throttle going up a hill his timing belt snapped. Afterward he tried to start it a few times (I know a big no no). My experience with Honda's tells me that I can get away with replacing the timing belt and the valves and everything should be back to normal. What are the chances that this did more damage than just bending and breaking valves? The mechanic he had it towed too (not me because he lives a few hours away) quoted him $2500-$3000 because he said 1. the engine would have to be removed and 2. it would have to be rebuilt and the heads would have to be sent off and repaired. I did some research and found that there have been people who have removed the heads on this motor without pulling the engine. Is this a possibility or just a pipe dream? Any help would be wonderful because I want to be able to knock this out in a weekend and would like to know what the chances are that any other damage would have been done to the motor such as cracked pistons etc. Thanks for your help! V -
I think I am almost there to getting this 1992 Loyale back up and running. I had diagnosed this engine as a broken timing belt and it was. The Driver side belt was majorly broken. However, I got the new belts on and the timing seemed to be weird and I can't get it to fire up. The pass. sides seems like it is firing but the driver side is not. It's getting spark and fuel and compression. but no combustion. Per Chiltons guide I lined up the dots to the top of the timing backing and the crank sproket dot up as well. but the driver side 2/4 is fouled by fuel, well cylinder 2 is. I didn't check c4. Compression is abour 150 psi and holds. (no leakage) Chilton siad something about applying pressure while setting the timing belt, but if I did that then it would not be on it's mark. So is there anyone out there that has done this repair and knows the exact thing to do to make sure this thing is in time? I've made sure that the engine was at TDC beore I aligned the cams. Thanks for your assistance! -Mike
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What I have is a 2001 legacy sedan and what I need is a good clutch and timing belt kit. My car has 113xxx on her and the clutch is on her way out and while I have the engine out I want to do the timing belt and everything because it was last done at 50,000 so I figured on just doing everything at once so I don't have to worry about it for another 100,000 miles. But what I want to find out is what is a good clutch but nothing to expensive, also what is a good timing belt kit Thanks, Luke -
Hello All - We have just purchased a used 1997 Subarau Impreza Outback sport (78,187 miles) for our niece, and would like to know if we should change the timing belt before we give it to her. Is it difficult on a subaru? Has 2.2 L H4 EFI engine. We service all our own trucks/tractors here on the ranch, so are not novices. Please advise. Thank you -
Hi all, I am poised to buy a 2003 Forester with only 91,000 miled on it. One previous owner, no accidents, carfax looks great mostly dealer serviced local to where I am buying it from. $6995, with tax and conveyance fee it'll be just shy of $8,000. Dealership did timing belt, waterpump, and head gasket. Tires look new. 1: Would you say go for it? This is my first sube and I'm switching from an '01 camry. I really need a wagon for this summer. I hear these last forever so when I saw one with less than 100,000 miles I pounced on it. 2: Where/how can anyone suggest I get an extended warranty? The dealership is only offering a 60 day warranty. While I consider myself a fairly educated person, I don't know much about buying cars as I've been driving my camry forever- so feel free to point out anything you might consider obvious that I might not have considered yet. I will be making my decision on it very soon, I have paid them to hold the car for a couple days while I come up with the money. A big thanks! -
Hi! I replaced timing belt and idlers in Subaru Impreza 1996 (ej20), removed pin from belt tensioner to tighten belt and after that rotated crankshaft pulley few times by hand. I was looking to see timing marks in pulleys and white lines in belt to get aligned again but it didn't happen so I turned crankshaft maybe 20 more times. They still didn't align so I asked someone with more experience about the situation. His opinion was the marks should align so I figured that belt slipped when tensioner pin was removed causing this confusion. So this evening I reinstalled belt paying attention that marks were ok in sprockets and belt and rotated crankshafk few times. Same result: when camshafts and crankshaft hashmarks were up the white lines in timing belt weren't. I'm starting to think they even shouln't realign but please verify if that's the case and if they should align what to check next as I'm running out of ideas with this. Thanks for help =) -
So, the dealer says $450 to change all the belts, including the timing belt. This other guy at different shop tells me that he guarantees me that the water pump would need to be changed, too (and a few other things he mentioned that I can't recall) for $1200. I'm at about 110K miles on this car, it seems to be running fine. Nobody has looked at it yet, I'm just shopping around for estimates because I know it's about time for a timing belt. I got a new radiator less than a year ago. Anyway, any advice? I'd appreciate it! -
Hi All--- I'll be pulling the engine from my 2003 Forester (next week. I hope) to address a number of issues. I'm trying to put together a parts list so I don't have to waste time chasing stuff down once it's out. Does anyone have a list of parts I'll need and/or any suggestions about what else I'd be smart to do "while I'm at it." Dennis111 had a good write-up on his HG replacement, with pics on Pbucket. Thanks, Dennis Thanks, JW -
I haven't posted on the forum since I'm not very experienced and don't feel I really have much to contribute to this forum, but I may have something after changing the timing belt in my '96 Legacy L wagon. The crank pulley was severely overtorqued (didn't come loose with either my dad or I on a breaker bar in 5th gear, e brake on, braced against the passenger's fender with ~1/2 revolution) and as it turned out had RTV as a Loctite substitute. My dad has a Bridgeport mill, so that's how I made the tool, but it could be done with a drill press and band saw in a pinch. Dimensions are the following: 5/16" Gr 8 bolts on 3.15" centers 1.25" center hole 1" flats for holding with a wrench It took me about 2 hours, but would take less time if fly cutting, digging tools out of the mess of a shop, precision machining, etc. aren't an issue.
