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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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Shifter Bushings, Can't Remove them?
Subasaurus posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
1989 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD Single Range 5spd so i went to the junkyard, picked up the shifter bushings just like i had done to my 93 impreza a while ago, removed some good condition ones and came home, well i did not realize that the one i removed it from was from a 2WD, thats why it was so easy to remove, and now i can't remove mine since Subaru put the bolt in the wrong way, and its in the way of the 4WD knucke that comes out of the transmission, its such an easy project yet so difficult its stupid. i did notice theres i think a roll pin on the piece that connects to the transmission but again, the stupid knuckle is in the way! please don't tell me i have to do this whole elaborate thing and remove almost everything just to change these rubber bushings on a bolt. the shifter is being annoying on the highway and i really want to just fix it. has anyone else had this problem? what did you do? any input is greatly appreciated!! the thing im pointing at is the nut, not the bolt, bolt is on the other side and thats the problem.
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Hi All...looking for a little help before I likely head to a mechanic soon. 2004 Subaru Outback, Limited 2.5L 4 cylinder 185,000 Miles Purchased at 75,000 in 2009...and I haven't touched the transmission or transmission fluid...I know, I know... When I start the car...idle has a slight sputter. For a split second, it seems it may think about dying...really a hair of a second, then continues on idling. (I'm going to re-verify this tonight because it's the part that doesn't make sense to me). The primary issue is at highway speed. Let's say you let off the gas at 40, 50, 60mph. Coast for a second...then get on the gas again (light or hard), the car doesn't find a gear (assumption based on the feel) and just starts clunkering/jerking around until I manually move the shifter to 3rd. The car rights itself instantly in 3rd...I move back to D and we're mostly ok again...until I let off the gas and get on the gas again. Now today was the first time in drive, while consistently accelerating that it seemed to slip and couldn't maintain the gain, so I put it back in 3rd and all was good. I also got the flashing check engine light today...moved down to 3rd and all was good...CEL went solid instead flashing. This happens at lower speeds as well...just not as pronounced of a feel. I kind of feel I'm on borrowed time with the transmission, right? or am I way off? -
1997 Legacy Wagon has been running strong and then, out of nowhere, the clutch pedal does something strange. First it loses return pressure and I struggle to get it in gear. Then after about three brief uses the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance and the stick refuses to go into any gear. The pedal pressure is non existent now. When engine is off, I can easily put the stick in any gear. When I start it in first, it starts and leaps forward confirming that it is in gear. The cable connections all look solid and rust free. Is there a return spring somewhere. The pedal one looks fine. The PHV spring is there at the end of the cable but I know nothing about PHVs. Since the cable seems to be functioning (but not returning) could it be the clutch or clutch fork? Can a clutch just die instantaneously like this? My stick linkage is the loosest I've ever felt. Related? Any advise is welcome. Thanks for your time and knowledge. -
So I can't get the pin off that goes through the end of the clutch cable and the clutch pedal. I can't figure out how to pull the pedal either. Please help me.
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Hey guys im currently doing a clutch replacement and since it has over 200k miles on it i just bought a new flywheel from Napa and i didnt notice that it was missing the center piece where there has 6-8 holes for the flywheel bolts...i'll upload pics down below. this flywheel has the center peice this flywheel does NOT have the center piece from napa.... Now my question is do i return it for a flywheel that has the center piece or am i suppose to buy the center piece and press it in? a quick response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again US community!
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Hello All, I'm experiencing some noise from my manual transmission (i think) during the recent cold snap in northern Vermont. The car is a 09' with 100,000 miles on it.The noise only happens when I'm on the throttle and loading the engine, stops completely as soon as I lift off the gas. This only happens when it is <5°F, this morning it was -12°F and it was very loud. I would describe the noise as a knocking or clacking. There are also two levels to the sound. Under light throttle I have one noise, and under hard throttle I have a different, louder, worse sounding noise. I get the noise even after letting the engine warm up completely, which leads me to believe the noise is in the gear box, as this does not warm up while idling. Also, the noise does go away after 10-15 minutes of driving. It seems to happen in all gears and does not happen when I rev the engine in neutral. From the driver seat, the noise seems to come from directly below the center console, maybe a bit in front of the shifter. I have replaced the transmission fluid, maybe 15,000 miles ago with Subaru extra-s fluid. Has any one else experienced these symptoms? -
I have a 98 Impreza. A little while back it started popping out of 4th while driving thrn 3rd and 5th followed. First question what would cause this? Second question I was going to take it to my mechanic to get the transmission checked. It backed out fine went into first fine, but when I tried to go in second it would not go in gear and would not go into any gear after that. What would cause that? I am mechanically retarded, the second sounds like a clutch issue, but I'm lost on the first issue. The car only has about 135k miles on it. Any info would be greatly appreciated -
New to Subaru, so bare with me. Im buying my buddys wifes 99 2.5 RS coupe. Shes an idiot who ran it till it blew up and now needs a new motor. I have a line on an STi motor and tranny, but not sure if the tranny will fit in the RS. Anyone know if it will fit or what needs to be changed so that it will? -
My legacy has recently began losing 3rd and 4th gears after driving beyond 20 miles or so. The ATF is good. I believe the problem is electronic and replaced the vehicle speed sensor (top passenger side of AT). The code I retrieve is for the output speed sensor circuit. (I am beginning to see my solution as I type) Has anyone else experienced this problem? I am hoping that it is a simple wire harness fix or sensor swap. Are all Gen 1 sensors interchangeable in the AT? (i.e. can I swap a sensor from a '99 AT to my '97?) -
I have a 2003 subaru baja (automatic) and have recently been experiencing what I believe to be a transmission problem. When in idle the car vibrates more than when in park or neutral. Also, when I come to a complete stop after driving for a bit the car has problems accelerating. It will stutter in between gears. I alleviate this issue by letting off the gas then trying to accelerate again. When this happens there isnt any distinct noise, the only thing that happens is the car shakes. Any guess on what I might be experiencing? -
So i was driving my 87 GL turbo, with the part-time (push button) 4wd 5-speed, and my front CV axle had been going out for a while, but finally earlier today did the dramatic "Crunch... POW!!" earlier and wouldn't drive in front wheel drive so I had no choice but to drive home in 4wd (Rear wheel drive) for about 15 miles. It drove the whole way perfectly smooth and it barely made any clicky click sounds around corners my concern is if this could have damaged my front Diff. or the Center Diff?? And what transmissions can be easily swapped in, I have an RX tranny, a non-turbo D/R 5speed from an 87 GL, and another non-turbo part-time 4wd 5speed in an 86 DL -
So i was driving my 87 GL turbo, with the part-time (push button) 4wd 5-speed, and my front CV axle had been going out for a while, but finally earlier today did the dramatic "Crunch... POW!!" earlier and wouldn't drive in front wheel drive so I had no choice but to drive home in 4wd (Rear wheel drive) for about 15 miles. It drove the whole way perfectly smooth and it barely made any clicky click sounds around corners my concern is if this could have damaged my front Diff. or the Center Diff?? And what transmissions can be easily swapped in, I have an RX tranny, a non-turbo D/R 5speed from an 87 GL, and another non-turbo part-time 4wd 5speed in an 86 DL
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I have an '82 GL 5 speed turbo wagon, 4 x 4, 350,000 miles, same tranny. It worked great 2 days ago, except the clutch acted like maybe a bad throw-out bearing because the clutch/car would shake a little when starting out in first gear. That problem has been going on for 2 years. It has not impcted driving. So I drove it into the garage 2 nights ago. This morning it starts right up then they symptoms get wierd: I can't move the car, like something is holding onto the tranny or wheels. 1. Stick shift "feels" normal and seems to move into each gear, stopped in the garage. 2. If in nuetral and you let the clutch out, car acts like it is in a fwd gear (1 or 2),.. but stick is in nuetral position 3. I put it in reverse and it won't move, like tranyy is saying reverse, but something else is preventing that. 4. Try to start car with clutch out, but in nuetral position,.. no go. IT wont start, acts like something is holding engine back, but starter will turn engine. 5. I looked under car for obvious linkage issue and I dont see any. 6. Hand brake is off and verified rear wheels free. Has throw-out bearing failure casued this? Internal transmission failure? differential? is there a front differential, I thought that was just the tranny. Help!
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I have an 89 GL that I just purchased from a tow yard. Everything seems to be in good order except the transmission will only engage in 4wd, and only the rear wheels engage. It is the push button type transmission. Any ideas what may be the problem? -
I love my 1996 Subaru Imprezza and want to do everything prudent to keep it alive. But, after the garage told me it wasn't worth fixing (has 276,000 miles and needs $1200 worth of engine work....major oil leak and smoke under hood), I started asking around. A friend told me to find out what the average life expectancy of the transmission was before investing the money...no reason to fix the engine if the transmission is just about to go! Any one got any ideas as to the life of the transmission??? -
So here it goes. Driving down the road turn a corner go to shift into a gear (manual Trans) 95 subaru outback wagon. nothing happens, acts like I shifted into neutral and wont come out of it. clutch works fine, shifter goes through all gears fine but nothing engages in transmission. No prior trouble and no noise, definatly not the noise you you hear when your transmission goes out. Just sounds like its in neutral. So we get it up on a jack and look. It looks as though something that runs from the shift linkage to the transmission has come out. Anyone have any ideas. I see a lot of mud in this picture we have had a crazy muddy season and I had no idea that the car wash I go through does such a bad job but hopefully someone can see this and give me some input. Do you think this is external to the transmission and can just be put back in an secured possibly a missing clip of some sort? Is there a part missing that holds it in the hole shown? Is it something that has to be re attached inside the transmission which would involve removing the transmission? Any input would be great. New to Subarus always drove Ford Trucks so this is all new. These are the notes taken by my husband to give to Mechanic but we thought if we could fix ourselves we would. The shifter will go through and into all gear positions and feels as well as sounds like it is engaging correctly. Girl friend says it feels no different now then when it was working. You can also do same with engine running, no grinding or difference at all. You can rotate the wheels by hand with it engaged in any gear position with no change in resistance compared with doing same rotating while in neutral. The clutch cable and fork and slave cylinder(?) appear to be working same as ever and feel no different in her opinion. Subaru - 1995 Outback - 200K+ - 4cyl - Manual this is what it looks like if it were this is how it looks now unattched attached Any help would be much appreciated
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Ok so my 1984 Wagon standard tranny is leaking a fair amount, (about two to three tablespoons every 24hrs i would guess) all the fluid is collecting around/on the drain plug and then it drips onto the exhaust pipe below. I have been regualry checking the dipstick and it is still saying its full, (I just redid the fluid) so thats a good thing. So far I have added STOPLEAK to combat the leaking but just in case that doesnt clear it up in the next few days does anyone else have any experience with these trannys and what to do when they leak?
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Ok so I cant find anything in my two soobie owners manuals about it so I thought I would ask the awesome soobie geeks on the fourms about it. My question is, do the older gen subarus have a breather tube or a vent for the transmission? or is the dipstick hole the vent? And if they do have a vent where is it? -
so recently ive noticed a weird vibration on the passenger side (right front) in my 87 GL Turbo wagon if i turn left at speeds over 50mph. it has a s/r part time 4wd 5spd. i recently replaced the cv axle, wheel bearings, and ball joint. and when i changed the axle i realized that the inner cv joint can move around a bit, what im wondering is if its a bearing on the output shaft or just that its really worn out. and how hard it is to replace/change it thanks everyone
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Currently in the process of pulling my diff to weld it, and I removed the driveshaft and oil came pouring out. Didn't know if this is supposed to happen? Didn't happen on my impreza when I did the clutch -
So im trying to replace my manual transmission input shaft seal, and after removing the 3 bolts ive been unable to remove the plate. I cant find anything on it in my manual. Its a 5 speed manual dual range trans out of an 87 gl wagon. IVe got it about an inch out, but it doesnt seem to be a plate like i thought before its more of a shaft with an oring... im confused, and since i have no guide to go off of.... i need help! -
hey everyone, ive recently acquired an 87 RX coupe and i cannot get a title, so its been a parts car to my 87 turbo wagon for a bit. i was wondering how much trouble it would be to swap the 5spd dual range Awd RX tranny into my GL that has a part time Awd 5-spd im sure its been done with how similar they are, i just wanna know what all is involved in doing the swap thanks!
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I recently purchased my second Subaru, and it has some puzzling problems. When I start it up, it revs up to 1,500 - 2,000 rpm for 30 seconds and then drops down to 1,200. The AT Temp light flashes 16 times, and the Check Engine light is on. When I shift the transmission into gear and try to drive, it acts like the engine is under a very heavy load. At first, I thought the exhaust was clogged, but after checking, I don't think it is. As the car accelerates, it shifts very hard, and when I take my foot off the gas, the car slows down as if it had a stuck brake cylinder (but it doesn't). Finally, when I stop and shift to neutral or park, the engine still acts like it is under load. When I shut the engine off, the drivetrain relaxes, and the car rolls backwards a little bit. When I pull the code from the ECU, it tells me there is a problem with the idle air control valve. I took it off and cleaned it. I also tested the resistance on the pins, and they are around 9 ohms like they should be. Could my idle air control valve still be bad? What about this transmission problem? At first, I thought it might be the Duty C solenoid or transfer clutch, but I cannot read an error code from the transmission. I am using an ELM327 code reader. -
Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF (getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense (Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. ► Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual. In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.-
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(Revised the original post) here's the rundown... I recently bought a 1995 Legacy with the ej22 and 127k on it and found out that it needs some transmission work (has a whirring noise on acceleration and during idling, but it goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed in). I'm considering just fixing it myself and was wondering if there are any good walkthroughs on the ej22 motor for clutch replacement and/or transmission removal.
