Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Turbo'.
-
like to say whats up first of all, never been a member on a forum so please forgive my noobness. i recently acquired a 2000 impreza L wagon to screw around drive to school and back and beat up. but i have had so much fun with it i want to keep and give it a better life than what it had in vermont. its got 125k on the clock and is rustier than all heck, i want to take it to a shop and get it check out to see if its still safe or worth investing money into it. the only thing i could think of making this subaru 10 more badass is turboing it. i wanna keep the whole sleeper and college kid look to it. http://www.automersion.com/2015/05/turbo-your-non-turbo-subaru-ej22/ i found this article and it fits what I'm planning to do. my only question is when it comes to getting a wrx header and up pipe and crossmember what years can i get. other than that how much would it cost time and money wise or a noob like me to get this project done or would it be cheaper and better to get it done else where thanks
-
Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?
-
"Could the legends be true?" "Legends dont burn down villages..." Elder Scrolls VI: Pleiades I've got a 1986 Subaru GL-10, I traded an MR2 i got for $500 and $1000 on top of it, This may very well be the only rust free GL-10 in Minnesota, and may be the ONLY GL-10 in MN, there is a red one to be rumored to be in existence here but the rumors are few and far between. Options i have on this car are: Digital Dashboard, Active Ride Height, Trip Computer/Range computer, power windows and locks, sunroof, every option available except leather seats if they were offered. Mechanically it is an EA82T, One of Subaru's first turboed engines. It is unintercooled and the slowest engine ive ever had in my life (runner up is a D15B running on 3cylinders). The transmission is an Automatic 3 speed, which when coupled with the motor makes for a very long trip to 60 mph (16 seconds at 65 degrees going downhill) It sits high but its because this spoob is a massive pain in the wongleflute to lower. I lowered the front 2 inches with Subaru XT struts, which did seem to help the look. The back is dropping 2" on some Eibach replacement coilover struts sized at 9"x2.5" (stock is 11"x2.5") Then i hit the wheels with some 150 grit sandpaper to clean them up, i still have a ways to go. But so far that's where I am now, final product will be 5x100 swapped (GC impreza front suspension, XT6 rear suspension) lowered another 2" on subaru impreza coilovers up front and legacy coils in back. Power will probably come from an EJ family engine, most likely an EJ205 with a STI turbo kit/intake manifold mated to a first gen Legacy 5 speed transmission. So stay tuned guys...
-
I want to turbo my 2005 Subaru Legacy 3.0r. I just want to know if it is worth it and wether it is possible. I was hoping that i might be able to use an sti set up and work off that. I only want to put out about 10-12 Psi and hoping that it will increase the performance quite a bit. I would also like to know roughly how much it might cost to manufacture some of the custom parts and what might be needed to do this conversion. -
We found a super-clean, one-owner 2005 Baja turbo with 70k miles that we're considering as our first Baja. One-owner car, well-maintained, drives great, super clean, but underneath, there's rust / corrosion on the subframe, exhaust, diff bolts etc. Connecticut car, so no doubt from salted winter roads. I've attached pics and was wondering if this undercarriage surface corrosion is normal for Subes of this generation. There's no rust in the wheel wells or doors and no rot, just the corrosion as you can see in pics. We'd like to buy this car, but want to get some feedback from fellow Subaru owners before going ahead. Thanks for your replies! A
-
Hello again my fellow old school enthusiasts!! So early this year the head gaskets finally bit the dust on my daily/shop truck 83 brat. unfortunately it had also been whacked severely in the bed/rear quarters, not once, but twice. i took it off the road and started driving my brz for the summer and started planning a restoration, got a decent straight t-top shell, started getting parts for the engine rebuild, etc. then another 83 turbo fell into my lap. of course, it died on the previous owner, and he was well out of his depth to diagnose. he took it to another decent reputation subaru shop, who was frankly again out of their depth. so i got it reasonably cheap not running. swapped my vane air meter since the previous dummy, er, owner took it apart, new coil, new starter and re ran the trigger wire, and swapped over my distributor (coincidentally a "new" reman only a few months old before the other 83 was decommissioned), fired right up, runs decent, a little leaky, but no serious issues. but... this car is a good bit rougher than mine, even including my body damage. i am in desperate need of the needle bearings, or sizing, for the upper section of the tilt column (right behind the wheel) not destroyed right taillight assembly washer bottle would be nice. those are the biggest, i do need a windshield gasket, but it is looking good from subaru. lower dash trim, driver's side. turbo emblems for the mirrors i won't get greedy, and just leave it there for now, i'm sure as i continue refreshing this one, more will arise, and i am already getting a list together for the full restoration project car. any help with either parts or sources would much appreciated!! -
Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
-
hi there i have joined this site with the hope that some MECHANICALLY MINDED AND EXPERIENCED people can give me advise on whats wrong with my 1999 subaru forester. turbo, manual model. ok so heres whats happening. recently i have noticed in the last 3 or so months the car wont start as nice and quick as it used too. it was gradually but slowly taking abit more for the starter motor to tick the engine over. last week i noticed the car making a very odd sounding noise on startup.(ONCE CAR IS STARTED IT RUNS ABSOLUTELY FINE) as a few days went by the noise worsened on startup and the car started having abit of trouble getting started. 3 days ago the noise was horrible and wouldnt start at all after doing shopping, it was cranking over but the engine wouldnt start.....i gave it 10 minutes and tried to start it again. still ugly noise while cranking and no start. so i put it into reverse and turned and held the key so that it rolled back as the starter motor cranked, then i hit the clutch and the car started up?????? took the car home and parked it up. i removed starter motor and got another one from another turbo forester and put it in. now the car starts again but i am getting that noise again and the car isnt starting up nicely like it normally would... ive been around to a mechanic who told me to go to a auto electrician and get his opinion and for him to listen to the noise also.. they have given me the thort that it may be the RING GEAR that is stuffed??? i had the iniyial thought that i had brought a dud starter motor. they told me to come home and take starter back off and look at the ring gear....... keeping in mind that once the car is running its fine!! issue is only on startup. DOES ANY1 KNOW WHATS HAPPNING? ANY1 HAD THIS ISSUE BEFORE?? Please help -
Hello, this is my first time posting here and I'm looking to finally have my own Subaru. Background is as follows: -Learned to drive in my dad's Subaru Bajas (he owned three over the years) -Got a 99 Ford Contour as my first car. Was alright, but had problems. -When I was planning to sell the Contour, I was trying to find a Subaru, but couldn't find one in my price range, so I gave up and tried Volkswagen in the form of an '03 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition (sport suspension and a 1.8L turbocharged engine.) -I'm not a trained mechanic in any way. I'm teaching myself from working on my Jetta and Passat (long story as to why I own two Volkswagens) I was originally planning to turn my Jetta into an all-wheel drive car by importing a parts car in the form of a V6 4motion Bora (name for the fourth generation Jetta in other parts of the world) I've looked at various cars and it seems like Subaru has most of what I'm looking for and appear to be more willing to recieve the things that they don't have that I want, so I want to finally try again at buying a Subaru. The problem is, I don't know which Subaru I should look at. The H6 fascinates me and owning a two Volkswagens with turbocharged engines has me hooked on boost for life. I plan to buy a car that has an H6 OR a turbocharger and swap/add the other one so I can have both. What I'm looking for: -All wheel drive -Turbocharged -Comfortable -H6 engine -DIY friendly I've got it narrowed down to three and have some questions about each. Third generation Legacy sedan: -How is leg room in the back seats? Is it better than a 99.5-05 Volkswagen Jetta? I can't find a third generation Legacy sedan for sale in my area to find out. -If I got this route, I am planning to swap an H6 into this at some point. How much time and money would I likely need to spend on parts other than the engine itself to do this? (Applies to Baja as well) SVX: -How is the EG33 as far as engine reliability and maintenance costs? Are there any common and/or major issues I should be made aware of before buying one? (I know of the transmission issues and have plans for this) -What is a good price to pay for one? I don't mind buying a fixer-upper as long as the frame and body panels are intact and rust-free. -If I want to put some form of forced induction in at some point, how much is it likely to cost me? -Is there anyone in or around Columbus, Ohio who has one that would be willing to let me see it in person and possibly ride (not drive) in it? Baja: (Not as many questions here because of the front-end similarities between the Baja and Legacy and I've been in/drove a Baja before) -I'm aware of the head gasket issues in this car's engine, it claimed my dad's second Baja. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this issue? (Until I can swap the engine out entirely) -Does the Baja turbo have the same head gasket issues? -Are there any significant differences in the engine bay of this car compared to the Legacy/Outback of its time? Questions for all three: -Are these cars more DIY friendly than early 2000's Volkswagens? Everyone tells me that VW is a pain to work on, but these haven't been that hard for me. From what I've seen, Subarus look easier to work on, but I would rather hear it from someone who has worked on them. -How hard is it to find parts for each of these? -If I buy one that has a turbo stock, how many of the turbo-related parts would be able to carry over to turbocharge and H6? -If I were to H6 swap a car, which H6 engines would you recommend? I'm looking for one that will be able to readily swap into a Legacy or Baja that can handle some boost and other modifications. -
Hi All, Will the turbo off an EA-82 turbo engine bolt on a EA-81 turbo engine? Or are they different. I think that my turbo isn't working and I have a complete EA-82 turbo engine in my donor car, but don't want to pull it if they won't interchange as the engine is complete. Thanks Steve
-
i have a 2006 Outback 2.5 XT and the turbo failed. I am looking for alternative options for replacement other than another stock turbo. Would prefer to spend less that what i was quoted for a new turbo from Subaru (approx. $1400 for parts and gaskets + install per my mechanic). While I wouldn't mind a perfomance upgrade I dont want my mechanic to have to do any fabrication or modification to install the new unit. I'm sure there is a great bolt on option, but I just dont know about it. We bought the Outback new, it is all stock, and has 130,000 miles on it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. -
trying to figure out where the u shaped hose goes off the turbo can not find another port for the hose to go. so am i supposed to cap it off? i know its the coolant feed line so should i do what have deaw in the second pic with a piece of straight hose then cap off the intake port? or is the intake hose what makes preasure for the coolant pump? -
Ok, so I think I'm in over my head, got an 07 impreza standard 2.5 with 5 speed. The motor and wiring harness were removed to install regular turbo motor. Bad investment? Problem I incountered right off the bat was the wiring harness, after getting all the info here is what I'm left to figure out. The new motor and wiring harness the car came with is from a 2004 base turbo impreza with an automatic trans and I need to put this into a 2007 Impreza non-turbo 5 speed. What will make this work? Do I need the harness out of a 07 turbo with standard trans to make this work/ or is this much more complicated than that?
-
Hi everyone, I had to give up on my dream of rebuilding this beauty, as I don't have the time or the skills to get this thing back to roadworthy. Also, I have a kid on the way, so off it goes. I'm sad to see it go. I know a lot of you have the skills and the ability to find the parts to get her blasting down the road again. I figured I'd post my Ebay auction here since you are the Subaru Gurus $1900, no reserve. Beautiful body, sad engine & cooling system. All details in the auction. Thanks for your time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111544339147? http://www.ebay.com/itm/111544339147? -
The 'time' side of my maintenance schedule says my car needs a timing belt. The car has only 51,000 miles but is an 06 (delivered in October of 05). This would be my first Subaru timing belt and I think I'm gonna have some questions and probably need some moral support. (actually, the ONLY T-belt I've ever installed was on a 1978 Civic wagon ! - that was belt only too) first, it appears my car has an ej255 engine. I think I'd like to get parts from either theimportexperts or mizumoauto on ebay, however, the compatibility/'selection scheme' often says my car isn't compatible. Still, a coupla links that 'look' good are ; http://www.ebay.com/itm/371001013292?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and http://www.ebay.com/itm/261044896184?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#vi-ilComp look OK? Also, I'd rather not do any work/spend money that folks would consider unnecessary. Mostly because of risk due to my inexperience. I DON"T mind working on the car for 2-3 days or paying for good parts, so IF I change the waterpump (would you change it at 51K miles?), I'm gonna get an Aisin. I know nothing about the GMB parts listed in one of those links and am leaning toward the more expensive NTN w'ever parts. Many people seem to think I should change the water pump and the cam and crank seals (remember - 51,000 miles ) but, as for the seals, it seems there's some 'art'/skill involved, and maybe I'd need a special tool to remove them - maybe to seat them as well. Plus, I've never used the sealants you guys talk about, Ulta grey or anaerobic? Couple that with stories of cracking cam pulleys(there's 4 of them!) and needing to sand-down (?) some shaft surfaces - I kinda feel like it might be too risky for me to tackle the seals unless I see leaks? I'd like a link to the FSM for this job if someone knows it (2006 WRX Wagon) Does everyone pull the oil pump and re-seal the back of it? Can I just leave it alone? What size socket is needed for the crank pulley? (in case i need to get a 6-point for my impact) Will I need to use any of the following; sealants (what types?), anti-seize(where?) ,threadlocker (where?), grease or special lube (where?) For a first timer, would you recommend pulling the radiator? probably install new hoses if I do but ??? any parts easily damaged plastic or hardware that will likely need replacing along the way? (clips,screws, bolts, nuts) any suggestions for the major 'gotchas' to watch out for? any decent pics or videos around? I have hardware stores near enough, dealer is 17 miles away. I don't expect someone to respond to everything, but I will listen to any wisdom you guys want to pass along. naturally, I have to live with any compromises I make, just wondering what experienced mechs have to say. If waterpumps leak coolant instead of seizing their bearings, I might leave mine in for instance. -
I picked up a '92 Legacy Wagon Turbo a little while back, super cheap, low miles, (got it with 67,000km/41631mi) by an old guy go going blind which is pretty evident on the outside of the vehicle.... Anyway, I need a new water pump. Anybody know if the N/A engine water pump is the same as the turbo? Or is it different? His almighty holiness 'Google' hasn't been much help. In fact I'm more confused because there has been some mention of an oil cooler option as well... thoughts? Thanks..... -
I've got a set of EA82 turbo heads off of my 1987 GL-10 wagon. Motor lost a rod bearing in the bottom end, but there was no sign of failure from the top end. Includes intake, fuel rails, etc.... Finally did the EJ22 swap after doing one on my Vanagon, so I don't need these goodies anymore! Make me an offer, I was thinking in the neighborhood of $100. I am in the Portland area if you want to pick them up, since the cost of shipping would be atrocious.
-
Hello people. I'm looking for a newer car to replace my '99 OBW, and I just saw a Legacy GT not far from here with a snapped timing belt. I know I can rebuild the heads and whatnot, but to be honest I couldn't care less for the turbo' extra power, specially if it means using premium gas. So... I'm entertaining the idea of buying the car and replace the engine with a normally-aspirated one (which can be found relatively cheap). The question I have for the local gurus is: how difficult would this be? Do I need to replace have the car if I decide to go this way? Thanks! -
I have been eyeballing the forum for a little while now. I bought my roo 4 years ago its stock still with 154K sat in a barn for 20 years or so. After i picked it up i stripped the underside of all rust and sprayed it with bar and chain oil. Then drilled the frame and filled it with bar and chain oil. Just put new brake rotors,front struts, timing belt /water pump and radiator in. Looking to do some fun stuff now..any ideas?
-
Is it possible to build a turbo motor(120hp) on a stock 4wd transmission?
-
I've completed my air to water intercooler install in my GL-10 wagon and EJ20G engine. My desire for the upgrade from the WRX TMIC were for less heat soak and more consistent power in the summer. I figured I'd document my results for anyone thinking of doing something similar. Parts used: Frozenboost type 14 intercooler Frozenboost type 118 radiator Jabsco 50840-0012 pump GM Reservoir (pn 25884797) and 5 PSI cap (pn 15076936) Generic Turbo XS type BOV Fulree 12/24V IN 9V 5A OUT DC/DC converter Metri-pack 280 waterproof connectors From DiscountHydraulicHose.com: 4503-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF 45° qty 2 4503-12-12 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 3/4" NPTF 45° qty 1 4501-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF 90° qty 1 5409-04 -- 1/4" NPTF Hex Socket Plug qty 1 4404-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF qty 1 4404-12-12 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 3/4" NPTF qty 1 This is what I received from Frozenboost: I wanted to keep my AC condenser and trans cooler so that meant I needed to cut the bumper beam. I tried to keep most of the material and I beefed it back up a bit by welding some metal alongside what was left. Here's how much I cut out: And here's the radiator mounted. Half of the radiator is behind the bumper beam, with that small gap there for airflow. I might cut more out after I get a feel for the how much heat the radiator can shed. You can see here that to work with the cut the bumper beam I trimmed the plastic, re-used the metal strip, and redrilled the holes to mount the bumper skin. The lower fitting was perfect at 45 degrees, but the upper fitting needed to be more like 70 degrees to pass through the existing hole in the body. I cut and TIG welded the fitting and it didn't even leak. The pump is mounted in the passenger fender. The brackets were welded to the bumper beam so no holes or welding on the body were necessary. The outlet hose runs up and around the back of the headlight and down to the frame rail. The flow routing could be hooked up a number of ways, but I decided I liked the Mercedes type routing the best. Intercooler->Reservoir->Radiator->Pump Here is the intercooler mounted. I made a metal bracket that bolts to the spare tire hold-down nut and attaches to the back of the intercooler. The bracket is flexible which allows the intercooler to move a bit as the engine twists. Also there is a metal tab for the reservoir on the same bracket. Now I'm getting some data from the system. I've tested the pump at different voltages and measured the flow rate with a paddle wheel flow meter I got on eBay. I tested it by filling up a 5 gallon bucket. It's pretty big and doesn't seem to affect the flow rate. At 12.8V the pump draws 6A and flows 5.0 GPM. This is pretty good I think! This pump is also smooth and silent. At 8.5V the pump draws 3.2A and flows 3.1 GPM. At 5V the pump draws 1.8A and flows 1.25 GPM. My plan is to use the "5th injector" relay that the EJ20G ECU has which is unused to run the pump at full voltage when under heavy load. When just cruising I will run the pump through a 9V regulator which will drop the power by half and increase the life of the pump. I will be adding my own code to the EJ20G ECU to control this relay. My algorithm thoughts are full speed for couple minutes at power on (for heat soak), full speed when above a certain load, and full speed for a couple minutes after load. Results are great so far. I've been able to increase timing by a few degrees, more boost, and most importantly more consistent power. Heat soak is much better, although it could be improved. Heat shields and a reservoir would work well; I think a pretty big reservoir could be made up to fit inside the fender. I've now installed a couple thermocouples to log IAT2 and coolant temp and I'll post my results later.
- 8 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- awic
- intercooler
- (and 1 more)
-
I have alot of parts for the 86,87,88 subaru xt coupe. Should fit the XT6 also. I want these out of my basement. I have stored them many years, tried to sell them on here before. I would like someone to buy these as a lot. I will separate the smaller items but do not want to ship the hood, deck lid, dashboard or seats. The items are in NH. Let me know what you want and shot me a price. Here is a partial list. hood with turbo scoop rear deck lid front and rear seats door panels, front and rear center console drive shaft (4wd) door glass seat belt motors (retractable) both sides innner rear window panels, around glass too upper door glass seals headliner dash board, no cracks lower seat belts spare tire with cover rear tail lights with center section, center section has very small crack window motor and tracks, both sides visors defroster vent door threshold, both sides vanity light third brake light side mirrors passive belt control unit module ECU A11-000-R06 power window relay cont. unit h/low module distributor trip computer front kick panels heat ducts wiper switch steering lift handle rear view mirror moon roof and seal I believe I have the starter, will have to verify. bunch of relays rebuilt turbo EA82 motor most likely a couple more items. I do NOT have doors, fenders, motor, bumpers, wheels, exhaust or front axles. Email me at fdgwolfeboro@hotmail.com or call me at 603-715-5670. Remember I want to get these out of the basement and would love someone to buy the whole package. -
Hi Guys I have a 2003 Subaru forester xt 2,0 . When the air around and the car is really cool like in the mornings or at night, the cars turbo has very nice pull and can even bring the traction control light on while turning onto a road with foot flat. My problem is that as soon as the car gets warm or hot that pull disappears. Starts to run like a 2.0 litre none turbo. What could be causing this to happen? Is it a hole in a pipe, is it the intercooler not working properly when the vehicle get hot or is the turbo breaking? One other thing. When the rpm gets over about 3 000 rmp some times I can hear a constant quick ticking sound. I'm not sure if the engine is supposed to make that sound but I have noticed that its there some times and not there other times. -
Hey everyone! I am brand new to this forum and actually joined in order to get some advice from more experienced owners of Bajas and Outbacks. That being said, I am no newbie to working on cars and love learning more about them, anyway, on with the questons... I inherited my '03 Baja from my dad who passed away in February, right now it is in need of heaad gaskets, well basically most of the engine seals are leaking a little, and new metal needs to be attached in the area of the drivers' side rocker panel/pinch weld below. There are other minor things; paint touch ups, some bondo from when it was rear-ended etc. BUT, I was looking into installing a turbo. I don't really know much about this specific engine, but i have heard that the oil and coolant feeds for a turbo are already there. I haven't looked into it at all and am wondering if that is true, and if not, maybe I would be better off getting a new pre-turbo'd engine. Also, is it easy enough to do a 5 speed swap? Or, maybe an H6 5 speed swap {{evil grin}}? I realize this is a big old money pit at this point, but I want to have it for at least another 10-15 yrs, I want a Subaru, and I'd rather my dad's than any other, so it's worth it to me. I'm just sort of trying to get a better picture of what is feasible, and what wouldn't really be worth it. I've got a local welding shop estimating $1200 to fix all frame issues and guarantee the whole thing for 10yrs, and I'm thinking the head gaskets will be another $1000ish, which leaves me with around $1500-$2000 to do some upgrades etc. Obviously some of the above mentioned mods wont get done for a while, but what do you think would be the best use, as far as upgrades, of my extra $2k-ish once all repairs are done? I was thinking about some high mount offroad lights, a turbo, and maybe a new audio system, the current one works intermittently. Basically getting rid of it is out of the question, and I'm going to be having some extra money to dump into it soon. Let me know what you think, any opinions are greatly appreciated. ~c4pt1n54n0 -
The turbo on my 06 Baja went south and basically took the entire motor with it by virtue of spreading metal particles into every orifice. I'd like to replace the toasted engine with a non-turbo 2.5 SOHC. Anybody have any experience or comments with a plan like this? Thanks.
