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Showing results for tags 'Turbo'.
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Hi Guys I have a 2003 Subaru Forester 2.0 XT. I am after getting a little more power out of it but I do want to try keep the fuel economy down as much as possible. What would you guys suggest? Would it be pushing the boost up a little or a new turbo or any other parts? On your choice what else would it affect as well? -
Picked up this straight body 74 Super Beetle a couple years back for the bugaru project.
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So I was curious about doing an engine swap and from what people are telling me that I'm in over my head. My new question I need help with is I have an 09 legacy 2.5i. I want to put a turbo on it, what all do I need to do. Ive been told that it won't just bolt up without replacing every thing in the combustion chambers. -
I had been taking really good care of my Subie, an '04 FXT with only 76K miles, in very good shape, except…. when my turbo blew out recently, and then blew out my engine. Subaru service proposed, as no surprise, a new turbo and new engine as the solution, Problem is the $8K they quoted that I don't have. Should I try to sell my Subie as is? Where should I go to sell (a Subaru forum like this?, eBay?), how much could I expect? -
Hi; I have a 1984 turbo wagon with an automatic trans. The trans shifts and seems to work like it should, but I have a bad crunching and vibration when the car accelerates. The former owner had new axels installed so not them. I pulled the axels and the splined stubs appear to be loose, maybe something in the front diff? I also have a 1986 turbo sedan for a parts car, dual range 5 speed, that I would like to install into the wagon. Has anyone done a changeover like this? Would the later clutch pedal and cable work on the older car? Just from measuring none of the crossmembers look like they will work, so I guess that I will have to fabracate my own. The rear gears are the same 3:70's, but the sedan has LSD in it. Any ideas, input would really be appreciated.
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Hi there! I am brand new to the world of Subarus, and I am having trouble tracking down basic info. I am interested in the differences from the very very basic to the technical between the Baja turbo and non-turbo cars from 2005-6. I have found a few discussions about repair expenses, but want to know about power differences, gas, terrain they can handle etc. Also does anyone know if Subaru would back a special project car if it were brought to their attention? I plan to do something with it that's not been done before, and it's a niche, can't say much else right now. Thanks! -
Hi, I recently remapped my 2005 ts turbo and added a larger air intake, I noticed that pressure was the default 0.2 bar. The performance is noticeably better so i,m sure that the tuner didn't fool me. The reason of my post is that I tried to raise pressure to 0.6-0.7 bar but fuel cutter hits at 0.5 bar. I took it back and he explained how the MAP sensor works and ecu cuts fuel (mine is a Hitachi PS60-01 boost sensor). he plugged a pda to the OBD and messed with the values(dont know exactly what he did) and told me to test again. I did, with same results. Next thing he did was to connect a zener diode (4.7 v) -see attached pic--- to fool the sensor but failed again. I tried myself with 4.3 ,3.9 even with 3.6 and car couldnt accelerate so I stopped. Nothing can raise the limit of the cutter and it seems that something else intervenes. {There is a temp sensor after the air intake filter, connected to the boost sensor but dont know if has anything to do with it.} Does anybody knows what is going on, a solution maybe? PS. I just need to go only 0.1-0.2 bar over the fuel cut limit, not anything extreme.
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i've recently acquired an 87 RX turbo and it wasnt in running condition. had to get replacement MAF sensor and fuel pump and filter as soon as i tried to get it started i could tell it was trying to fire then all i could smell was varnished gas.. so its been sitting for a while if i pour good gas into throttle body it will fire up for a second, but now that i have good gas in the tank and lines with new filter it doesnt seem to get any gas to the injectors. somewhere between filter and injectors?? -
I have a Rx with ea82t and Gl with ea82t, and was wondering if anybody knew any differences between the engines. First thing I noticed was that the Rx's wastegate goes directly to intake, and on the Gl the wastegate hose goes to a switch then another goes to intake
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Hey guys, new member here. I recently aquired a silver 87 GL-10 turbo wagon with air suspension and the 3 speed automatic. I essentially got the car for free so I figured if it ran, I'd spend some time and a little money trying to get it running good so I'll have a winter car. It sat for probably 2 years, at least, up in the woods of the northwest. Encouragingly the car started right up with a jump, and it actually drove over 180 miles down to where I live without any needed repairs. So far, the problems I’ve found with the car are limited to the push-button 4WD not engaging( which may be a bad button is all) and more importantly...the air suspension will not lift the car. When I turn the key to ON, the compressor starts running and continues to do so for about 8-10 minutes then shuts off. After it shuts off, the light begins to blink on the dash indicating that there is an error. I’ve found very little technical information on this system that I can effectively use to properly troubleshoot the problem. The little that I have found has informed me that the behavior I just described usually occurs when a leak is present in the system. Because the ride height does not change after 8-10 minutes of the compressor running, the computer assumes there is a leak so it shuts off and projects an error code to the driver. I also read somewhere( and I could have this wrong, please let me know) that the computer will always try to raise the rear of the car BEFORE the front. So, with this in mind I removed the plastic and carpet from the back of the car and checked the air lines for holes. I found out that mice had literally severed the air line going to the passenger-side rear wheel. I bought a couple air-line bridges(blanking out on what they’re actually called) and patched the line. As of right now that’s the only defect I can find in the air system. After fixing that though, the system still does the same thing. It runs for 10 minutes without any change in elevation, and then shuts off leaving me with nothing but a blinking dash again. What I’m hoping for is for someone who has had experience with these air systems to suggest some things to try. Or that possibly someone who has a technical shop manual for the 80’s GL’s could take a gander at the pages detailing air suspension troubleshooting and post some suggestions...maybe even some scans One observation that I’m not sure is important, is that my dad unhooked the middle hose from the compressor that goes to the tank. We noted that he was able to blow air INTO the compressor...which seems like something irregular. But I’m not sure. Maybe it needs a new diaphram? Help me out. Oh and before everyone starts chiming in saying that I should just tear out the air suspension.. I’m not going to put that much work into this car lol Plus, everything seems to be in good condition, the car has 150,000 miles. Thanks in advance guys. -
I had been watch this go on and off craigslsit for about a year and decided i wanted it plus to have a visual diagram to put my other turbo wagon back together. It started at $1500 non running and slowly went down to $600 or trade. So i asked the guy what he wanted to trade for which came down to a saxophone and a clarinet. Once that was agreed apon i went down to go pick it up and all the paper work. The orignal owner was a old lady who bought it at Gladstone Subaru she garged it all the time but she is the one who hit a post thats what happened to the bumper, hatch, and tail lights. After that she passed and it sat in the garage for 5 years until the guy i got it from bought it at a garge sale and got it running. Soon after that the digi dash shorted out and caught on fire frying the dash harness, ecm, melting the dash and other plastic parts that the guy since then replaced but it wouldn't run. It only has between 136k-138k orignal miles and all the orignal paperwork. One paper hand written says its 1 out of 4 ever sold in Oregon and 1 out of a thousand ever made. This is where i come in i have taken out the dash and am checking all the connections, putting together the right tachometer, fixing the engine harness, and fixing the body up.
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Hey all, I'm working on getting my 1987 XT turbo back in proper working condition. The car has the flapper style MAF but a spider manifold was retrofitted by a previous owner, so there are all kinds of wiring oddities I am still trying to sort out as I get it closer to running properly. It was pointed out to me that the knock sensor is currently disconnected; I looked for a pigtail to plug into it but couldn't find one. I did, however, find two broken wires coming out of the harness that crosses over the block...I checked my spare EA82T manifold as well as my ER27 and it looked like the knock sensor plug was a single-wire setup. So, does anyone know what those two wires might be for, and if they are not the knock sensor plug I am looking for, where would I find it on the harness? I haven't been able to find anything. Pics below for clarification. and the plug that appears correct on my spare manifold... -
Hi, I recently bought a 2005 impreza 1.6l with an ihi rhb5 turbo (about 150 hp) and I noticed that the real boost starts over 3800-4000 rpm (100+ octane gasoline). The thing is that I dont want (for now...) more power I just want a little bit more torque at lower rpm (lets say 1000 rpm less). I checked over the internet and I saw 2 or 3 propable solutions. 1) wider exhaust pipe for lower back pressure in order to help turbo spool up faster 2) stiffer spring in wastegate actuator 3) remap ecu What is the best to start with and because stock ecu isnt a good choice for remapping I would like a suggestion for an aftermarket one. Thank you in advance.
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I have this strange problem, when i drive down hill and let go of the throttle my car starts to jerk. But if i just give a little throttle it stops to jerk. Its a forester 2.0t with automatic gear. Someone who have had the same problem? -
I found this page on Google, and got this info on a JDM Turbocharged EJ20 from a Legacy RS 97-98. My Forester is 1998 and uses a EJ25D, what do I need to do to accomodate this engine in my car? Is it better to install this one, or should I just install a turbocharger and intercooler on my existing engine? http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/203/Subaru_EJ20_Legacy_RS_&_GT-B_Turbo_(11/96)_JDM_EJ20 -
Does anyone know where I could get a set of head gaskets for my (EJ253) 01' lego with the 2.5 SOHC, But I want to get a set of head gaskets for the turbo'd 2.5 and need to find a place to get them that would my 01' lego -
So working in sales as I do, I get to play with all of the new Subarus. Generally it's a lot of fun, and of course being around Soobs all day makes me happy! But I would just like to shine some light on the brand new Forester that was released this year, as it has exceeded our expectations both for sales numbers, and in terms of the capabilities and fit-and-finish of the vehicle. Now I don't know if any of you guys have had a chance to drive one of these bad boys, but the XT models are astoundingly fast, they combine a turbocharged version of the FA20 2.0l Direct injected engine (originally marketed in the BRZ/FRS/GT-86) with a Lineartronic CVT, with the turbocharger being a twin-scroll unit. They also incorporated a transmission setting that Subaru has named "X mode" which essentially mimics a 4WD low setting at speeds below 30Km/H. It also includes a hill descent control feature. Subaru has managed to squeeze 250 HP and 258 Lbs/ft out of this 2.0L engine, and due to the powertrain setup and the reduced weight (CVT/Xspd auto/manual) the Brand new forester gets fantastic fuel economy as well! It is my personal opinion that the brand new Forester actually holds it's own pretty well against a WRX! it may have about 15 HP fewer, but the two vehicles have similar weights. Now this is where it gets interesting. If you have ever taken a look at acceleration graphs, you know that geared transmissions are curved and taper off at higher Rpms (if that makes sense) the beauty of the acceleration afforded by the CVT is that your acceleration is completely linear. So in theory, the more consistent acceleration actually gives the Forester a leg up on higher-horsepower geared-transmission vehicles. Then combine that with a drive-by-wire throttle and engine management that controls the ratio of throttle input to fuel output (Allowing it to increase fuel delivery in the "Sport# mode), and you have one fast codswalloping machine. Anyway, I hadn't noticed anyone talking about this awesome addition to the Subaru line-up, so I thought I would start a conversation on it! Who remembers Battlestar Galactica? I mean come on, look at that maw on the front of that Bad boy. Anyway, if anyone is looking to pick up a new Soob, definitely give this one a try. The world was demanding a brand new updated Forester, and Subaru answered quite defiantly by releasing an absolute monster. So, lets talk Foresters!
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So, I can't get a definitive answer about what i'll need for a crossmember to drop my ej22t into my xt6. I was told an ea82t crossmember would be workable and i've gotten conflicting info there stating that the xt crossmember won't bolt up to the mount holes in the 6... anyone here done the swap before?
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Last week I finally took possession of a 1989 RX coupe with 74,270 miles on the odometer. I have decided to name her Ruth after her original owner. The car was purchased new in New Hampshire, and I bought her from the original owner's granddaughter in Washington, DC. Ruth is pretty solid overall, and the interior is immaculate but for two holes in the driver's side headrest and a bit of wear to the trunk carpet. I've decided to get her back on the road and clean her up to the extent I can without going broke. I wanted to take Ruth to Carlisle, PA this past weekend, so I launched into a flurry of activity to make sure she was roadworthy. The front brakes turned out to be completely shot, but the calipers moved easily and worked fine, so all I needed were rotors and pads. The rear pads and rotors need replacement, but they could wait. I ordered a full set of rotors and pads from my local Subaru dealership; apparently I got the last set of NOS rear pads in the country. While driving home, I noticed that the temp gauge didn't work. When I checked the connector, the terminal popped right off. Unfortunately, the dealer ordered the wrong temp sensor, so I had to improvise. The copper wire was still lodged in the sensor, and there was just enough length to crimp on a connector from my toolbox. Not ideal, but it worked. Now I can replace the sensor at my leisure. Next up: the passenger outer CV boot was completely gone, and the bearings were clacking around in the race. When I got home with the replacement drive axle, I discovered that the crown nut had been crossthreaded so badly that it was unusable. I packed grease into the joint and jury-rigged two boots I cut off of old Forester axles, tying them together with twine and reusing the metal clamp near the hub. This somehow lasted 62 miles before disintegrating in spectacular fashion. Surprisingly, it was the metal band that failed - the twine had held together and had to be cut away to remove what was left of the boots. I drove another 200 to Carlisle and back to DC with a completely bare outer joint. The last thing I checked before taking Ruth on the highway was the timing belt. The belt itself looked good, but it was frighteningly loose. I was about to give up on driving her to the show, but then I discovered that the tensioners on the ea82 are manual, not hydraulic. And there are even access holes to reach the bolts for the pulleys! Ten minutes later, the belts were nice and snug. I started to feel nervous when I felt some nasty vibration from the outer CV joint around 65mph, but I discovered that it smoothed out above 75. Cruised all the way there and back at 75-80, grinning like a madman the whole way. Among the highlights at Carlisle was meeting Nipper, whose posts on all these Subaru boards I've been reading for years now. Also loved seeing his CVT-powered Justy. My biggest problem now is some odd noise from the rear suspension, along with left rear camber that is not exactly within factory specs. I suspect it might have something to do with this: The worst area of rust is the rear crossmember. If anyone has a replacement in good condition or knows where to find one, please let me know. I'm not terribly keen on the rear suspension falling apart while I'm driving. I also need new bumper beams front and rear, because the front is bent from a small accident, and the rear is more rust than metal. I'm holding out hope that the plastic bumper covers will be reusable. In the 250-odd miles I've driven, I have fallen completely in love with this car. It's small, sprightly for its age, and like few other cars on the road in my neck of the woods. I am grateful for any assistance I might receive here, and I hope to keep you posted while I return Ruth to her former glory. -
I have a 1986 Subaru Leone fitted with a MPFI EA82T. Here the other day the engine kept "dying" shortly after it was fired up After a long session of troubleshooting, I managed to narrow the problem down to the ECM. It seemed though as it didn't manage to give the proper grounding to the fuel pump. I tested this by providing the grounding from the "outside" of the ECM. With this the engine ran smoothly and was on the verge of stopping only when the grounding was removed. So the problem appears to be the ECM which I now have to replace. The spare-ECM comes from a slighly older Leone with a non-turbo MPFI EA82. Some of the partsnumbers on the on the module itself is different.(Check the pictures) But the connectors are all the same. My question then is whether or not it is a smart idea to use the spare-ECM. Any ideas? Turbo ECM Non-Turbo ECM
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So, as some of you may know, I just got my first snail. So I'm sure all of you are dying to see pictures of it. So here you go. Now that the picture show is over, I'll relay the details. Just rolled it over 159k, one owner, driven, but not abused most of its life, completely loaded with options (even has an aftermarket tape deck installed), sunroof doesn't leak (not inside anyway) interior is clean and decent shape, still has the sunroof carrying bag (never been used, still smells like formaldehyde/treatment chemicals), slight leak in the trunk that needs to be hunted down, and rust spots in the sunroof that need to be taken care of. But otherwise the thing look pretty much pristine. If anyone has a blue dash surround (the part that has the vents attached), I need a new one (previous owner smacked the dash and broke it). And an AC cover button. Mine is broke and refuses to stay on. But so far, so good. Needs a tune-up (NGK wires and plugs to kill a misfire issue) but otherwise it runs like a little monster with a screaming glowing snail from hell attached to it Twitch PS: And the AC will damn near freeze you out of the car
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Ok. so I have started back on my RX project again. been really busy with moving and such, she kinda got put on hold. Picked up my new JDM motor and tranny and have slowly been tearing it down to do a re-seal and tighten things up before I drop it in. Pics of my 5-lug swap... Using front end parts from a 99 OBS rear is all XT6. And here is what I have been doing more recently. Not sure if anyone remembers me contemplating dropping a EJ20t into her but atlas I decided not to "settle" for what I didn't really want... SO yeh. here's my new Version 4 JDM EJ20 Sti and tranny... Motor came pretty well complete and I got a smoking deal on it! included the TMIC,harness ecu, turbo timer, and Syms racing Downpipe and header! Now, I could have dropped this motor in and head it running by now but I convinced myself to tear it down and do a complete re-seal of the entire thing. And since im doing that I might as well to the head gaskets and port the heads and intake while im in there. also ordered up a set of ARP head studs. Also powder coating a few things while I have it apart. I'm going to be powder coating everything I can on this guy to keep it looking clean for years to come. ill post more pics of stuff like that as they happen. lots of cleaning left to do, still need to port the heads and intake, waiting for gaskets to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). I've also been getting goodies for this project as funds allow. see such goodies below . B&M Turbo oil cooler. New TMIC next to the JDM IC that came with the motor. Figured I had room for a larger one so.. Why not! New silicone turbo inlet tube and New TMIC Y pipe. Stage 3 6-puck ceramic clutch and 12lb flywheel. should give me nice fast revs! also considering going with a lightened under drive pulley kit. New GFB response BOV. fully adjustable atmo/resirc! So, that's my progress thus far. As I said as funds allow I will be doing more work to it. should be running before to much longer and I will keep everyone posted as things happen.
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I just bought my first subaru, It is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 Turbo 1.8L 2wd Sedan, I would like to start doing some small modifications to the car, and slowly build the car up. I have enough stock parts to build this car over a total of 4 times (minus complete motors, transmissions, and shells, I have extra body panels and a ton of etc parts) Basically i was wondering for first of on this list of mods: 5 Lug conversion Lowered suspention Blow off valve Front mount intercooler adjustable boost controller w/ boost gauge catback exhaust anything to add some small horsepower without breaking the bank too badly, or to make the car more reliable. please if somebody could start me off in the right direction that would be great, i just finished all of the body work to the car, now i am eager to start modding! -
2007 Outback XT with a rod knock due to previous turbo failure. Is it possible to swap out the turbocharged engine with a naturally aspirated engine? I imagine that wiring harness & ECM would have to be swapped also. Anyone have any experience with this? My reason for asking is that I purchased this car in December 2011, burned up and replaced turbo in October 2012, now i have a rod knock. I still owe a lot of money on this car, wife is now without a car to haul the kids & get to work. Looking at options such as rebuilding off of a new short block & selling car, purchasing a used engine from salvage & trying to sell car, or if possible converting car to non-turbo and keeping the car. Any info or suggestions would be greatly apprecitated! -
In my years of research on here and working on these cars, I have in my head that EA82s have a VF-7 and EA81s have a VF-4 then early Leggys get a VF-11. If that is wrong we can end the discussion. It is also my understanding that the EA81T VF-4 was oil-cooled only. Well, I pulled the turbo from my 88 RX. The unit is clearly marked as VF-4, and it is water-cooled. I'm pretty sure that it is the same turbo that came in the RX with ~120k miles. The previous owner had it for a couple years and thought that it was an original motor. It could be from a different EA82, or maybe bonus junk from another car purchase, but I'm pretty sure it was my first one and daily driver. Could it be a rebuilt VF-7 with a VF-4 compressor housing (where the marking are)? One of my motors is one of the JDM imports, could it be a JDM-only legit water-cooled VF-4?
