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Showing results for tags 'axle'.
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Hello All, It has been awhile. I installed a lift kit that was provided on the other topic. The kit has been cool and works great. I tore a CV boot and removed the axles. I replaced the boot and I can't for the life of me get the strut pulled in far enough to the center to reinstall. What am I missing here? Eric
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So about a month ago I noticed my power steering started to get harder and harder to turn. About a week and a half ago it began to make noise. Last week I replaced the pump and yet still no change. Today I blew an axle...yay me....so as I was under the car checking out my busted hub and axle, I noticed a small tear and the power steering boot. I squeezed it and power steering fluid came gushing out. Does anyone know if this is the cause of the squeeky and difficult steering, or is it something more internal? Also, of anyone has instructions on axle Replacment, that would be wonderful. Thanks guys! -
I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic -
so I have an 86 gl with 2" lift and the front inner boots keep splitting. I've replaced both axles around a month ago and they're both already split. Is there something I can do to stop this or am I just going to have to get really good at swapping them. I know the axles I got were not the best but I would think the boots would last a little longer than that. this car also has the adjustable struts, and they are in the lowest setting. I've put 2 sets of front axles in, in less than 1k miles.
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I replaced the front passenger axle on my 88gl 4wd 5spd 115k mi. because the boot was torn and slinging grease all over the engine compartment and on the exhaust. I wasn't having any problems with the axle other wise(no noise, clicking,ticking). So I got a remand from autohouseaz.com and put it in. Checked axle to best of my ability before install and seemed fine, put it in tightened everything up and and took it for a test drive through my neighbor hood. It makes a click/tick noise in sync with wheel speed ONLY while accelerating. It is more noticeable turning right than it is left. Again, it only happens when accelerating. Let off the gas, goes away. Not accelerating and making a turn, no noise. Apply go fast(ish) pedal mid turn, starts clicking. Let off gas, goes away. I jacked up the front passenger wheel and checked for any play side to side/up and down/in and out and everything is tight, no slop. Spin the tire and no grinding or metal on metal sounds. Removed the tire and break/rotor, nothing appeared amiss. Removed castle nut and re-torqued it. Took it for another test, still same issue. After reading through posts here I realize i should have just rebuilt the original Subaru axle seeing how i could have a bunk re-manufactured one. Also I could have wheel bearings starting to go out. I don't feel like wheel bearings could be the culprit only because I wasn't having any problems before replacing the axle. Checked the brakes and they spin just fine, no warpage or anything stuck in it or the tires. My goal is to sell the vehicle because I just inherited a newish truck and do not need her anymore/dont have the room but I do not want to sell it with this issue present. I'm perplexed as to why this only happens under acceleration. Is it possible I didnt get the wheel bearings seated properly? the castle nut is ran up like thge drivers side so I assume they were properly seated. Does any one know where to get an front passenger axle rebuild kit? I would rather do the work myself and know its done right instead risking getting another crap axle. Also where to get the wheel bearings? Thanks in advanced for y'alls responses
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Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, I use those on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since many years ago My advice is: ► Choose a Grease intended for C.V. Joints, not a cheap, soapy universal grease. Rubber Boots: I Suggest you to use Always the Subaru Original Rubber Boots. Even Using Cheap C.V. Joints... ...Because other Brands Doesn't last very much. Subaru designed one Short Boot to be Used at the Wheel's Side (outer Boot), and one Long Boot to be Used on the Gearbox Side (inner Boot), the Difference could be Seen in this Drawing: Since both Boots does have the Same opening Measurements, their only difference is that one is Longer than the other, it does Not make any Sense to Use the Short Boot; Specially considering that the Wheel side does Much more Effort due to the Steering Turns that Stretch 'em many many times per trip. My advice is: ► Use the Longer Rubber Boot at Both ends. Because the inner Boot (Longer) Works Perfectly in the Place of the Outer Boot (Shorter). Being Longer aids the Boot to Handle Better the Continous Stretchings from the Steering Turns; so it Will Last Very Longer than the Short one, holding there the Grease, and the longer boot helps to elongate the C.V. Joints' Lifespan on Lifted rigs, because it compensates the increased angle of the axles. Also I've Found that a Simple Driving Behaviour can Make C.V. Joints to Last much more longer: To Relief Pressure from C.V. Joints while doing U-Turns; let me Explain: C.V. Joints works as you can see on the Followin' Animation: So, when you do a U-Turn, the Balls goes from one Side to Another very very Fast; if Acceleration is Forced (in Example while Accelerating the Engine) the Balls will go Faster and harder with the Extra Pressure and shearing against the walls, and that will Worn them and their Holding Basket very Fast, also their C.V. Joint's base. ► My Advice is: Do the U-Turns Just with vehicle's Impluse. Give to the Vehicle enough Speed and leave the gas pedal while doing the U-Turn, also you could Place the Shifter in Neutral Gear (or Press the Clutch Pedal to the Bottom) in manual transmission vehicles; only while the Car is Turning, that Releases the pressure from the C.V. Balls ... ...it makes Miracles in C.V. Joint's Life! One last thing that might Help, is the Use Good Quality Zip Ties, instead the Metallics with Razor's Edge that could Cut the Boot; I'm Using those in many cars since 1999 with Great Results! ... Even in my Lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as you can See in this Photo below: They'll Stay right there if Properly adjusted and be Sure to obtain the Best Quality that you can buy, not the toughest ones because those are too hard for the application. Two Things are the Most important in C.V. Joints' life: ► Grease: If a Boot Fails, you must Hurry up to Change it along with new, fresh Grease, as soon as possible, so Weekly (or Sooner) inspections to the Boots are Highly recommended. ► Driving Behaviour: if you Usually Force the C.V. Joints, (i.e: like Burning Tires in U-Turns) they'll Break soon. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards. ► Edited to add the Tags for the New USMB Search System.
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