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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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84 Brat Intermittently Grounding Out?
jmoss5723 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did some searching, but I didn't come up with much and electrical issues are my biggest weakness. So if I'm asking dumb questions, please enlighten me with your ingenuity. The car: 1984 Brat with a replaced EA81. When the engine was replaced, some "extras" were removed and I definitely have some wires to nowhere. The issue: Recently, when I turn the key to start the car, 1 of 2 things happen. It either: 1. Starts right up. OR 2. The dash lights up, the battery gauge needle hits about 8-10V and the starter doesn't turn. If it starts and I drive it there are no issues. If I roll start it, jump it with the 50 amp setting on my batter charger, or jump it from another vehicle there are no issues running it and driving it. Once it is running the needle sits just above 12V and everything is great. I got my battery tested. It is supposedly fine. It seems that no matter what, if I drive the car then shut it off, it always starts back up if I try within a few minutes. The questions: Is my starting circuit grounding somewhere intermittently and killing my battery? I'm assuming an intermittent short to ground because sometimes the battery is fine and other times it gets drained very quickly. What should I look for? Edit: I'm not sure if it matters, but the car had been mostly sitting for a year while I worked on it off and on to finish the lift and do some rust repairs to pass inspection. I just started driving it again last week and that is when the issue started. Edited again for grammar. -
So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker -
Preparing the Loyale for RallyCross
LoyaleSmith posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hey everyone, I am starting to prepare for rallycross. I own a 1990 5spd Loyale with an EA82. Car is stock except for Spectre cone filter, fitted to a MAF adapter(3"). Also, the drivers seat is a stock bucket seat from a Nissan 240sx, with rail adapters I made here at home. I also have mudflaps which are custom made. SO, I have a few things to do before I believe this car is ready to go sling mud around. Before anyone says anything, I am aware that this car isn't a "race-ready" vehicle, nor is it really typical for any sort of motorsport event. From what I've read about rallycross, it's about having fun and getting the car out there, not being fast and competitive. Thats what i'm looking for. I don't want to destroy the car, I want to go have fun. I have no problem driving conservatively on the track, and i'm confident that my car will do fine. I'm not out to build some badass screaming turbo race car.. I want to take a virtually stock car and improve my abilities, along with getting a feel for basic motorsports. I would assume everyone on here sees what I mean, but still, I feel like I have to say something. Alright, here is what i have in mind that should get me ready to go play. CAR -Battery tie down(i have none) -set of good tires -relocate AWD button to dash and get aftermarket shift knob -put on skidplate -fire extinguisher -straight pipe with cat ITEMS TO BUY -approved helmet -gloves -SCCA membership -gas can -tarp -jumper cables Questions: 1) Will my aftermarket seat be a problem for the inspection? Custom made adapters had to be made to make the seat fit in my car. It's sturdy, and not anything completely ridiculous. The seatbelt works and is positioned correctly. Other than what I have said, does anyone have any advice or recommendations for me? I would really appreciate it. I'm new to this, obviously. I'm a huge rally fan, and I live in the Pacific Northwest. I'll be participating in Sports Car Club of America events. I'll upload pictures of progress. Thank you guys! -
Got a 98 Outback that didn't have remote keys from previous owner. Every once in a while, the alarm system (it's original Subaru, not aftermarket) seems to take on a life of its own and you have to use the bypass button underneath while turning key with clutch in. Then, it seems to kill battery once in a blue moon on top of that, which is a bigger nuisance. We don't need this stupid alarm system at all! From reading other posts, it might be a trip to dealer to disconnect it properly, or, if I'm reading one post correctly, a matter of separating and re-soldering the ignition feed wire which is wired to the little black box up above the clutch. The alarm horn, btw, had a cut black wire, so I just cut the red wire as well and taped both up. Maybe that was causing a periodic short that was setting it off and killing the battery? -
I have a 95 Subaru Legacy, Starting to feel like my parents gave me a money pit. But I'm hoping to come out with a Money pit worth having. Did the wheel bearing myself, Car doesn't have reverse (Got transmission, going to get it swapped) The transmission sets me a little over 1000 for used transmission and trans swap. Just recently I got a battery light, car died while driving. I took the alternator out and the battery to the parts store, they tested both of them and determined my alternator was good, but the battery was bad. I bought a $125 battery for it, and here I am two days later battery light on earlier today and car dies while driving tonight. Some how "my alternator is good" but my battery is not getting charged. Anyone have this problem, Where do I start?? Thanks for all the help here ya'll. I got some great info when I originally posted about my transmission which led me to finding a decent deal on a used transmission. Travis-
