Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
-
I have a 1996 legacy outback wagon with a 2.2L I have been trying to bleed the brakes and when I first bleed them the peddle stiffens up but as soon as I tighten the bleed screw back up I have to pump the brakes 3 to 5 times to get any tension in the peddle and it still goes to the floor. I have searched and I have not found any leaks that are visible any way can some one give me an idea of what could be wrong. -
I love the car, hate the brakes. My service advisor hinted it is an Imprezza flaw. The brakes work but I hate the feel, sometimes I feel like nothing is going to happen when I hit the pedal. ( I miss my TT at time like this...) So question is - has anyone done any brake upgrade and have any recommendations?
-
So I finally got my car running well(1995 legacy ej22, 189k). I replaced the egr valve and iac with some used parts from gross Gary and it's running well. Now it seems like my front brakes are grinding. I don't rember noticing any sound until recently. When I take the tire off and look will it be pretty obvious? Rockauto.com has a front brake kit for $67, anybody have any experience with it? -
Hello. thanks for stopping by. First I have spent a good hour searching and digging before I posted this thread."pulse" and other terms I could think of brought up a lot of fuel system stuff but not what I feel is going, IE please hold your tongue for " do your own research" type replies. We are a community after all :0D The real thread starts here: 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 AWD automatic trans. I experience a pulse, " whoosh, whoosh whoosh" sound and feeling that picks up and slows down as the vehicle's speed does ( not engine speed, but vehicle speed) It felt to me like it was coming from the front. Things I have done / checked: 1. New tires and balanced ( needed them anyways did not fix issue) 2. checked boots at wheels , Front + back, No rips I could see 3. Checked boots at trans ( front axles ) no visible rips Unrelated recent maintenance since : oil chance fuel filter replaced Air filter service ( K & N type) Any thoughts/ Questions/ links / other threads related would be greatly appreciated -
Hey everyone, so I recently purchased a late 79 DL (1980) and was told that it wouldn't move from where it sat when I bought it because the brakes were seized.. so I went to inspect it and see what was wrong. I started it up and listened to that Subaru rumble for a bit (no exhaust) then put it in gear then it just drove perfectly fine.. until I pushed the brakes to pull off the highway, I noticed they were dragging a little bit so I stopped to look and the rear brakes were completely locked up by the time I got back in. But the next morning when I went to get the car it drove perfectly fine with no dragging on the brakes... I've never heard of anything like this happening so I thought id just ask you guys Thanks for any help guys and gals(: -
About a week ago I put new pads, rotors, and calipers on my Legacy. The brake pedal travel had been a bit troubling, going fairly close to the floor. I was hoping that bleeding all four wheels would improve it, but it hasn't. Now the only thing I can assume is wrong is the master cylinder. Does this sound accurate? I don't really know what role the brake booster plays, but I'm hoping it's not the issue. At one point the other day I was sure that if I pushed hard on the pedal (while stopped) I could hear a noise like air escaping or a high pitched whistle or something. I haven't been able to replicate that again, however. Stopping power doesn't really seem to be affected, so maybe I can just leave it as-is until ... whenever? -
While trying to bleed my brakes I snapped off the bleeder screw on the left rear wheel so I need to replace the wheel cylinder, is there any way to know what bore size the wheel cylinder is without removing the drum, it is a 1988 subaru gl with 3AT transmission and push button 4x4
-
Hello everyone, just have some general questions regarding my newest purchase. I have recently bought a 1997 Subaru Impreza, engine is an EJ22, 2.2 L, automatic, and only 114k miles. After a couple of weeks with the car, I have a few questions. 1) The brake seems to go halfway to the floor before I get any sort of stopping power. Pumping does not seem to help. I took it to Belle Tire to look at it since it was free. They said the pads and rotors were in good shape, as well as the rear drums. When I asked about the pedal going halfway to the floor, the man working the counter told me his mechanic said it felt fine. I really don't think its normal, but if it is, or someone knows what the reason might be, that would be great to know. I initially thought that it was air in the system, but the previous owner had the brakes done at the dealership, which makes me skeptical that there would be. I didn't see any leaks underneath or on the wheels, and I do not seem to be leaking any brake fluid. 2) recently when I have been starting my car, I've noticed a very slight knock, that goes away once the car heats up. From what I can gather, it seems to do with the oil that's currently in the system? Its only been into the low 40's overnight at best, if that helps at all. I also think it may have sat for a short period of time before it was sent to auction, and subsequently to the dealership I got it from. 3) I've read of head gaskets going bad on Subaru's somewhat frequently. Although I do not think it is, it still has the original gasket so I'm somewhat skeptical. My fluids clean and don't seem to be mixing with anything, but I would like to know how feasible it would be that it is bad, or will be going bad in 2 or so years. 4) Really anything else I should look for/check that has been a problem with the model. Thanks for all of your help in advanced, Trevor -
Hey guys I am trying to figure this out. My folks' car is a 1992 Subaru Loyale Automatic 4wd. So they were telling me the brakes were getting more and more spongy, when I came to visit them and checked out the car the pedal would pretty much go all the way to the floor. Now I had done the front brake pads about six months before this all occured, and the calipers lookes fine when I changed the pads, the pistons went back in without any problems. The back brake shoes looked fine so I didnt bother changing them and I didnt see any wet spots around the rear cylinders. Back now to six months later and the pedal sinking to the floor. I checked the brake lines and they looked fine. I was now convinced its the master cylinder. I did some tests I saw here on the forum. I went ahead and bled the brakes first to make sure there was no air, the brakes were still spongy maybe a tad better but still going to the floor. Ok so I went to Autozone and got a remanfuactured master cylinder, about 40 dollars which included the 8 dollar core charge. Not having a tube wrench I ended up stripping one of my brake line bolts but I managed with a vice grip to get it off. Needless to say I went to Sears to get one for 10mm but ended up with a set of 5 for 35 bucks since they didnt sell individual ones, they are definitely the right tool for the job. Okay so putting the new one on I managed to strip the threads on the rebuilt master cylinder, so I ran and bought another remanufactured one and managed to get it in, but it was a b!@tch. I did bench bleed it before. Okay so went through and thoroughly bled all the brakes, no improvement. Went back bled the brakes again the next day brakes were still like crap with pedal sinking all the way down. I was at my wits end. I decided to adjust my parking brake to have some sort of good emergency brake if I needed to take it in. As I was adjusting the parking brake and following the procedure which has you pulling on brake and testing the pedal, my brakes started to firm up. I did this repeatedly and lo and behold the brakes went back to almost normal. I was reading somewhere about hill hugger assist feature on some subarus and that can be a problem with spongy brakes but I looked on youtube and it seems to be a feature only of cars with a manual transmission. There was also something online about break distribution system etc but I didnt see anything for the loyale. I also dont think it has ABS, I dont see anything there fancy except just a plain master cylinder. So my question is what is going on here, I am worried the spongy brakes may come back unexpectedly. I really want to know what the problem was. Was it the MC is it something else going on. Does this car have a HH system and brake distribution switch that could also be causing brake pedal to go to the floor? HELP!! -
I saw that this topic was covered once, in 2005. The article was: Brakes won't give me a break, posted by afojc, 19th Nov. 2005 and it gave me some insight, but still would like to ask additional questions. Thought perhaps it might be time to put this topic up again, in case anyone else is still running into difficulty with this. 1. Subaru drove home when I bought it, but emergency brake wouldn't hold, and it sounded like possible rear brakes starting metal to metal. Sent it to neighborhood 'mechanic', and had brakes done, including rear shoes. 2. Could barely pull it out of there. He apologized, but said he was unable to find out any more info as to how to control, or adjust brakes for the 'hill' stops. But now, it will barely drive. If I park on anything other than the Salt Flats, it doesn't want to unlock. 3. I live in a fine area of people, but right now, I have 'mechanics' wanting to rebuild the whole rear end...! 4. Simple suggestions greatly appreciated. I am past my days of my own wrench, and physically, ability is becoming limited. I could probably still get brakes off and on, but I would rather explain it to a young man... I have had my turn, and right now, would like to do the minimum to get it to a real mechanic if needed. 5. Thus, can I remove rear brakes and drive it to a mechanic...(60 miles away)? Totally appreciate any suggestions, as I love my GL wagon, and have yet to drive it!! -
Hello. I have a 2002 Forester with 175,000 miles. After I drive the car for about 1/2 hour and the car gets hot, I have a problem when I turn the vehicle. No issue when I go straight, but when I turn, like going into a parking space, something starts binding. I can overcome the binding, with more power from the gas pedal. The tires are and have been good. I can not tell if the binding is from the front or rear. The binding will occur either going front or back with the wheels turned. It almost feels like the brakes are being applied, but it is not. Any suggestions, please. The car is a manual transmission -
Does anyone have any experience with the Drilled and slotted brake rotors and pad kits on Ebay? Have some on a 92 SVX, but they were on it when I purchased it and have no idea where they came from. -
Hello, I am new to this forum and was looking for some guidance. My 2006 Impreza needs new rear brake pads and rotors. The shop was quoting me $250 parts and labor. Is this a reasonable price to pay for this service? Alternatively if I was to do this myself any recommendation for online store to get the parts from. In the past I have used www.fcpimport.com. Any information is greatly appreciated, Thanks, Alex -
Trying to replace front brake pads but cannot get the caliper piston to compress enough to get new pads in. tried with c-clamp but it has e-brakes on front couldn't get them to budge, took them completely off vehicle loosened bleeder too.Is there something else i need to do?
-
2009 legacy se 5 speed manual with 40,000 miles. Everything has been working perfectly, until this morning. Wife calls me this morning and says the rear wheels locked up on her way into town. The car skidded to a stop and died. After a few minutes she was able to move it off the road and we let it set for awhile. I drove the car the two miles back home with no issue. Later in the afternoon I went to pick up my daughter and the reading on the dash computer was reading no more than 9.5mpg and there is a grinding noise under the seat upon acceleration. It does not seem to have power loss. Being new to Subaru all together i have no idea where to even start. -
My wife recently bought a 1999 Impreza wagon with 77,000 miles on it. Private sale. I noticed that the brakes were a little soft so today I decided to do a brake job on it. I was surprised to find that it had drum brakes in the back. Here's where it gets weird. The front right pads were completely worn out and they were original Subie pads. The driver's side had replacement pads from Autozone and they looked almost new. The rear shoes were almost new. What puzzles me most is why only the left front pads were replaced and why didn't they exhibit more wear? Were the right fronts doing all the work? The car didn't pull when the brakes were applied; I just thought that they needed to be done due to a soft pedal. -
Hey all. I have a 1988 GL turbo wagon with disc brakes on the back. I'm trying to install new pads but I can't seem to get the caliper to stretch enough to fit over the rotor. Any ideas or tips? Thanks.
-
I'm thinking about overhauling the brakes on my 88 GL soon, any recommendations of brands for pads/shoes? I'm just running stock rotors/calipers and rear drums for now, but I'd like to make my purchase worthwhile. The wagon is mostly a daily driver. Thanks! (also, links to a thorough rear disc conversion writeup would be much appreciated!)
-
Hey guys, i need some advice on how to handle this particular situation, as some of you know, i've been around the forums here asking for advice on various things with my 82 wagon, affectionately named Ruth. So, I'm at the point where i need to decide if it is worth taking Ruth to the mechanic to have the brakes worked on, or if working on the brakes is something that My friend and I can handle. My buddy is pretty mechanically inclined, and has done brake work on similar manual brake systems including a 1970 Camaro, and a few VW bugs. I personally have never done any sort of brake work. So here is whats wrong as far as i have deduced. Brake Pads - They are shot on front passenger side. One of them broke off completely when i was checking them out this morning. I looked and it has been pushed out of place from the last time i drove. So there is the brake pad problem. Brake Rotor - The passenger side brake rotor has a pretty deep bore into the outer most part of the rotor. 99% sure from the busted/worn out pad. So the rotor on that side needs to be replaced, i don't think it can be refinished. Calipers - They look fine on both sides, but because of the busted pad i can't really tell. I feel that i should get the calipers replaced on both sides, or at the very least the passenger side. Brake Pistons - I have not checked, but I think they are fine. Master Brake Cylinder - Almost entirely positive that there is a busted seal in there. The brakes don't leak when parked, but when the car was driving I had to really keep my eye on the fluid tank. The brake has always been a little spongy, but has always been able to brake, fairly hard on a couple of occasions. Still, There is definitely been air in the system, and i don't know if it was me, or the master cylinder was already busted before I bought Ruth. Side Note - there is wetness underneath the Master Cylinder, and i think it has dripped over to the brakes on the drivers side. I don't believe the rubber hoses are having an issue or are in need of replacement. I think the fluid is all from somewhere near or in the Master brake Cylinder. Are these all things that my friend and I, and possibly one of you awesome Forum memebers, could work out? Or should i really take this to a mechanic and have them fix it. Some quick pricing puts me at 200-300 bucks to fix it at home, 500 upwards at a mechanic. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm located in Mountlake Terrace in Washington if anyone is nearby and wants to join the fun if we make this a home project. -Scott
-
I just put new rotors and pads on my 2000 legacy GT and I have no brake pressure at all. I have to put the brake peddle to the floor before it even starts to slow down. I checked my fluid levels and they look fine. PLEASE HELP!! -
Trying to figure out my brake issue.. Anyways I got the car, and I noticed the brakes were super soft/spongy. First thing that came to my mind is air in the lines - so I bled the lines and tested the brakes. I still could not lock up the wheels even in the rain! I checked the master cylinder nuts to make sure they were tight, and they were. I checked all the brakes - I can not see any of the brakes leaking upon checking all 4 calipers. I lifted the calipers and looked at the pads, and greased the slider pins while I was there. Could not find anything so I decided I have a bad master cylinder. Today I got a replacement master cylinder, I installed it and bled everything again. My bleeding procedure is as follows: loosen fittings on MC while someone pushes pedal, close it and tell them to release. Repeat this couple times. Then do each wheel opening after they start pressing, and closing before they end pressing (Order: FR, BL, FL, BR) After this I drove the car and when I mash the pedal to the floor (in the rain again) the wheels do lock up but it still feels VERY spongy. When I sat down in my dad's forester ('09) hitting the brakes immediately locked up the wheels and confirmed that my Legacy still sucks. I'm not sure how to proceed. The pads I have are of unknown brand, but they have plenty of meat left on them (1/2 thick each or so?) They do seem to have too much grease, but the grease is on the back side and has not gotten on the braking surface. I feel that even if they are the cheapest brakes ever, they should be able to lock up my wheels - right? I am not driving the car at the moment because I do not feel it is safe to do so, I'm amazed it passed NYS inspection with how bad the brakes were to begin with. Car is 95 legacy wagon, 4 wheel disk brakes and ABS Oh yeah I also replaced all 4 brake hoses. Am I missing something? Can I adjust the push rod? Is air trapped in the ABS system? -
So I just replaced my rotors and pads. Seeing as both my rotors had cracks in them making it terribly hard to stop the car. And I figured while I was at it I'd replace the black brake fluid so I let the system drain overnight and was hoping to gravity bleed in the morning. To my suprise only half of the system wants to bleed, EDIT: Front left, and rear right are dry as a bone. Front right, and rear left are full of fluid no air. So basically I tried blowing air through the "clogged" system (with a bicycle pump lol) I can see air bubbles coming up at the reservoir! so its not clogged, but no fluid comes through. Before I buy a new master cylinder I'd like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem, and maybe theres a fix? Been at it for over two hours now, I guess I'm not taking her out just yet!
-
Master Cylinder or Brakes? 92 Loyale
Subarocket posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi guys. I redid all my brakes a year ago and bled the lines (first timer) and my brakes came out almost non-existent. Pedal to the floor and no action. The garage rebled my brakes and it was much better but they weren't terribly strong. Before me changing them, the pedal would not got to the floor like this (the brakes were worn badly but pedal travel and strength was normal). A year later of having quirky brakes that I have managed fine, another garage tells me the master cylinder is gone. The brakes are definitely worse now. 1st pump typically gets nothing, second pump is fine. Pedal travels to the floor the first time and the second time when it engages, the pedal travel seems right. The garage says he can't find a master cylinder. A lot of chatter on here says the MC hardly goes. Any thoughts? Thanks -
1992 Subaru Loyale My left front calliper seized today while driving through Vancouver. I am here intermittently for the next month. Does anyone have a parts car around these parts? I could use a new calliper and master cylinder. Thanks, Brian
-
Hi there folks. I have been absent from the forums (and from my shop) for a few months due to 84 hour work weeks. Yikes! They're finally moving my hours back enough that I'm starting some of my planned summer projects on my BRAT. Now I've been researching all afternoon for a thread anywhere on the Internet and only found one in which a guy upgraded his subaru brat hubs to a modern subaru 5 lug. My question is, what all HAS to be changed to get the new hubs? I know I'll need new rotors and brake assembly but can I keep the same struts and tierod and such? I'm looking for cost effectiveness but I will change anything that makes sense to. Thanks in advance! Ratch
