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Showing results for tags 'brat'.
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I need both front axles and both rear out of a 78 brat... Mine are all making noise and whatnot. Used in good condition would be fine... Does anybody have any? -
one stock set of rims from a late 70 wagon- $75 one set of somewhat rusty jackmans- $150 one set of good condition chrome rims off a loyale- $200 good set of headrests from a first gen brat- SOLD push bar for a first gen brat or wagon, rusty and slightly pitted but not bent- $50 i would really prefer not to have to ship rims, but if you figure out how i'm not dead set against it.
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I'm getting sick of the garbage aftermarket carpet that I bought a long time ago--it doesn't even fit because it isn't wide enough. So I want to just clean the heck out of my floor and coat with some sort of durable finish and then get rubber mats. With that said, I have two questions: What would be good to clean the floor with? (something strong enough to get the remnants of the old carpet with its adhesive and all) I don't want to coat it with just rhino liner type stuff on the inside, but I want something that is similar. I just don't want something that's so rough, something that will be easier to clean since it'll be on the interior. Is there something similar to bed liner that is smoother? (Or something that you guys know about that will suit my purposes better)
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so, as my topic says, im going to be modding my brat into a little rally beast. Im already looking for needed replacement parts such as hood, fenders, grill, rear bumper, etc. mostly cosmetic. but im still planning out the major modifications. One of the first things on the long list of modifications and repairs needed is an engine (well..actually an entire drive system, but engine being the focal point) for the much needed increase in power. im thinking the system from a late 90's impreza; ej25 motor, manual transmission, awd. actually, let me take a step back and just lay out the basic overall idea for the project. basically i want an every day driver that i can also go play in the sand with . cosmetically i want it to look like a factory soup up. very simple black body with white accents. mechanics is a who different story. im going to be building it for aggressive offroad use, so a small lift and slightly larger tires is in order. and an engine with much greater power; more specifically torque. any ideas on what engine or what vehicle to steal the drive system from? or any other ideas or tips? i will post pictures shortly, but considering im not in the same state as my brat at the moment, i only have pictures from earlier this year
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Hey I'm selling or parting out my gen 1 BRAT. Add explains all. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4304702483.html
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so i have a 1985 subaru GL hatchback, and the clutch blew. due to the variety of setups subaru made for that era, i have no idea which clutch to buy.its a ea81 with a 5 speed front wheel drive transmission
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1985 subaru gl and 1986 subaru brat gl
zmarrott posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer -
I have an '82 Brat that I picked up recently and started fixing up. While I was replacing the struts I found that the sway bar connector on the passenger side was hanging. I was considering removing the sway bar altogether and was curious if people run without front sway bars on Brats?
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So I have a 1983 Brat that I have had a ton of work done on. It finally doesn't leak oil and it runs great. The EA81 in it only has a little over 150,000 miles on it, but all of the ports that have anything to do with the ERG system (or any other emissions control system) have been plugged with bolts and welded shut. The previous owner did all of that. I don't know if that has any relevance, but anytime the windows are down you can smell exhaust (at least I think it's exhaust) really really strongly. I can be going 70-80 mph on the freeway, but if the windows are down I can still smell exhaust. What could be causing this? Surely, although it is an old car, not all old cars smelled like this. Is there an exhaust leak somewhere between the outtake and the muffler?
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This is my 1983 BRAT that I bought this summer. It was in pretty good shape when I had bought it, but it needed a paint job for sure, haha. The previous owner had put hours into it, and it was running well. He had also cut out and re-welded all of the large rust spots/holes. I had been looking for a BRAT for a while, and this one was in good enough shape to give me the gumption to purchase. Here is a complete list of what the seller did to it before I got it (besides body work and rust replacement): At 167,000 miles Converted Trans to 4 speed single range 4WD Manual out of an '81 GL At 175,000 Front right wheel bearing replaced At 191,000 Engine/Transmission swap. 4WD Dual-range, 4 speed Manual trans with a bigger clutch from an '84 GL wagon. Engine still an EA81. 135,000 miles on those. Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, 2 crank seats, carb gasket New clutch disc, new pilot bearing, new fluids New balljoints, new tie rod ends, new brake rotors, rebuilt calipers, remanufactured CV-axles (auto zone), new brake pads, front wheel bearings repacked with fresh grease, alignment New performance exhaust Front shocks/struts out of a low mile '86 Brat New Monroe rear struts Bucket seats from an eagle talon installed Custom rear bumper installed Front and rear body cut flush with bumpers Then, when I was in the process of buying it he sealed the undercarriage and coated it with Rhino Liner and coated the bed with Rhino Liner also. After I bought it, he did extensive body work to both doors and the front fenders, primed it, and painted it (double stage paint job with pearl metallic black paint with red flecks that show when the sun shines directly onto the car) He also installed another step panel, so now both sides have the secret step panel. I then put in a carpet kit (which wasn't even wide enough for the car, which was great) and have spent many many hours cleaning and detailing the interior. I also broke all of the plastic fins off the vents because the plastic was all crumbly and nasty. It looks pretty clean now. Since I have bought the car, I have made it my mission to get it to stop leaking, so I have since had new oil pump housing gaskets installed and the crank seal replaced. When we bled the brakes, the master cylinder froze up, so we installed a new master cylinder. It was still leaking, so we replaced a large part of the oil pump that was cracked and put in a new oil sensor. Then the water pump and front brake calipers started leaking so we replaced those. I just barely ordered new rear drum brake adjuster screws because the old ones are completely worn out. I also have new KYB front struts, but haven't put them on yet. The mechanic told me that the only thing that they can see that is still leaking is the rear main seal, but I am waiting to replace that since the engine must be removed to replace that one. I am hoping that it will definitely not leak after this.
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Okay... so i just swapped a low mileage ea71 and trans into my brat out of a 79 wagon, and put the old engine and trans into the wagon. thats all done, my problem is the distributors are different! the 79 is an electronic distributor and the 78 is not. the thing i want to know is, how do i make them run again? i cant figure it out... there are two wires that come out of the distributor cap on the 79, a blue and a red one i think, and when they were on the wagon the ran over the engine and plugged in by the firewall. on the brat, there is nowhere to plug them in. i was going to swap the coils and capacitors, but after tracing the wiring from the capacitor on the brat i found that i would have to basically swap the entire wiring harness... i guess my question is, how do you convert from running an old style distributor to an electronic one? somebody please help they are immobile until i get this fixed...
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Just rebuilt my lower half of the engine and I foregot to mark my vaccum lines and I think some were off to begin with. Anyone have a diagram they can post to help me out. I have 1.6 l 1980 Brat. Thanks.
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I would like to see all the swapped gen 1 out there. Doesn't look to be very many. Prove me wrong.
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I have all the interior trim pieces if anybody needs any. i also have a jumpseat frame, headrests, and seatbelts. I also have a stock radio/cassette head unit. Make an offer!
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Ive got an ongoing issue with my 1985 brat, it fights and hesitates when i gibe it gas, sometimes stalling the engine. If i very lightly tap the pedal, its fine. If i floor it, it will hesitate very briefly and then rev up properly. Its right in the middle where i have the most problems, the position you would use most for daily driving. Ive rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor (my first time, i may have missed the problem here) and the problem persists. Changed spark plugs, distributor cap and even added a little fuel additive, but im not getting any improvements. It isnt so much of a problem when the car is warmed up, but i dont have 7 or so minutes to spare every time i need to get somewhere. Anything i should be checking that ive missed? A simple solution right in front of me? Ive even considered a FI manifold and ecu transplant if it means the car will run fine again. I will try to add a link to a video of the problem when i m off work tonight.
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First post, please be kind. Right so I've developed a great interest in the Subaru Brat and am dead set in getting one and putting it through some major modifications. Such as putting the body on top a WRX drivetrain with the subframes then lifting it using Forester struts. Now I want a Gen 1 GL Brat because I love how it looks with it's BMW-esque headlights and subtle body lines. I thought that Gen 1's were available with t-tops however to my dismay I've found out that they aren't. Now the t-tops are half the reason why I've wanted a brat in the first place. All of my cars have t-tops... gotta love them t-tops So! My question is how difficult would it be or if it is even REMOTELY possible to put the Gen 2 t-tops on to the Gen 1? Are the roofs similar enough that I can just chop the roof off a Gen 2 and put it onto a Gen 1 or are the windshields and windows a different shape? If the glass will be a problem, then would it be possible to leave just the frames around the windshield and doors and put in the Gen 2 roof/t-tops? If none if that is possible then... how about swapping/grafting the body panels of the Gen 1 on to the Gen 2 frame... or would that best choice from the get go? To close, I repair, restore, and modify cars from mechanical to body to paint for a living and I love it. So no amount of wrenching, cutting, welding, etc is daunting to me. And thanks for taking the time to lend your knowledge!
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I have a set of gen 1 brat jump seat belts, both are in good condition, one works perfectly, the other is missing the spring. Anybody want these? $35
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So my front struts on my 78 brat are so stiff that i have no flex at all, and i dont want to replace them with more struts. i was thinking, i should be able to use air shocks and an on-board compressor instead of front springs, right? i looked at the specs of the shocks i want to use and they have 10 inches of travel and a max psi of 200, but i watch videos on youtube of people that put these on vw bugs and toyota trucks, and they only provide 3 inches of lift or so. my question is, are these people not airing the shocks up to their max, or is that all the shocks are capable of? if that is all they can do, would i get more lift out of using dual shocks on each side? i want to get 7 inches or so of lift out of these things, 7 inches between fully aired up and completely empty i mean. would i just be better off to go with airbags? i kind of dont want to do that because they seem to require a lot more psi... somebody help me out please! these are the shocks im looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-49235-Hijackers-Air-Shocks/dp/B001AM8KAO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1388624613&sr=1-2&keywords=air+shocks and this is my brat!
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A few days ago, all of a sudden, I noticed a very low (400-600 rpm), shaky idling issue coupled with terrible gas mileage... Today it started stalling at every stop unless I give it gas. I believe cylinders 2 and 4 are missing, though it's hard to tell because the idle is constantly fluctuating and randomly stalling. When I get into gear the engine runs fine (still crappy MPG) and when the choke is on it runs fine. I have new Bosch spark plugs and NGK wires replaced less than 200 miles ago. New fuel filter. Cleaned the crap out of the carb. I pulled the plugs and they look normal. Wires are certainly carrying a charge. No random arcs. No visible crack in distributer cap, terminals look fine. Pretty sure there is no vacuum leak but I'm about to do a carburetor cleaner spray check. Head gaskets look fine, no coolant leak or anything. Could this be a problem with the ignition coil pack? I planned on picking up a better one anyways, hopefully tomorrow. Could this be a thermostat issue? I flushed the radiator not long ago, I'm sure the current thermostat is 166,000 miles old. PCV valve maybe? What other checks/cleaning should I do before I go on a random part-buying rampage with money I don't have?? I certainly won't be driving this thing until I figure it out. Thanks -
Hi All, This is Andrew here again. I am still trying to tackle this bogging out issue. My Brat runs really well when its not warmed up, but once it is warm it losses power when moving from a stopped position. I have completely rebuilt the carb and at this point I am pretty much done dealing with it. Its the stock carb and I am thinking its time to replace it with one of those webber carbs. Does anyone have a link to the carb that will work with my 1985 Brat 1.8L? As always, thanks in advance for your support and help. Cheers, Andrew
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I recently acquired a 1985 Subaru Brat. I want to install the rear jump seats which I have but I'd rather not put anyone in them without having a roll bar. I don't know everything about Brats. Does a 1985 4 speed manual even comes factory with a roll bar? I was wondering if anyone has one or how/where to get it made. I'd rather it be original if it had one but when ever I search any for sale sites there is never a roll bar for a Brat.
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So im going to be swapping the drive system in my brat with one from an early 2000's wrx, and im currious how difficult a certain modification would be. i would like to keep the abiloity to select on the fly 2wd and awd, so it would be a slurr of a 4wd system and an awd system. is this a feasable thing to attempt?
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Hey there fellow subaru lovers. ive recently started a fan page on facebook for Old Gen subarus. (it says NW but honestly we love em all!) im not really trying to post to get more likes as much as i am looking for great Old gen subaru pictures. I see amazing ones day in and day out on here and i want to use them all but i would also like to give credit to those who have made it great. i ve added a few that i absolutely couldnt help myself but id like to get more! anyone who would like to have their old gen subarus plastered on the internet with us all drooling over it either add them on this thread. send them to my email ( elliottdevon@ymail.com ) And Or go and put it on the page and like the page. https://www.facebook.com/nwoldgensubarus ALSO we have been trying to get together a meet for Old Gens in the nw most likely in the oregon area. we have a separate thread on here if you are interested. but we will likely be adding it as an event on the facebook. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142570-like-to-get-an-old-gen-meet-going-in-the-oregon-area/ Thanks all! hope to hear from you soon!
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i just finished putting true dual glasspacks on my 78 brat, am i the only person to ever do this? ive searched and cant find anybody else that has! am i unique? am i insane?
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So after seeking out a vintage Subaru for about 3 months thanks to The_Mechanical_Misfit getting me obsessed with getting one I finally found something. I bought a 1985 Subaru BRAT from forum member TomRhere (thanks again Tom). It really is the best car I have ever driven and couldn't be happier with it. Thats her after getting home from the 170 mile drive home. In the rain, of course. And there is one of myself and TomRhere taken by The_Mechanical_Misfit while picking it up. Since the day I brought it home I have been in the middle of giving it a basic tune up: air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, belt, a little seafoam for good measure. The only thing that has gone wrong so far is I had to replace the alternator. I found a way to totally split the pulley down the middle, making it not turn completely and wreck the bearing. Ended up getting a reman from O'Reilly because this is my main vehicle now and I did not really have time to look for something else. So thats it thus far. In the future I hope to get a topper and/or a roll bar, maybe find a way to redo the stripes on the sides with something that will pop a bit more, and fight the rust battle with all my strength.
