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  1. I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/
  2. The attached photo is from How to Keep Your Subaru Alive. I installed my Gen1 Brat (no power steering) struts as per top picture. With the top of the shock in the rearward position. Based on the fact it's 4WD; and not a Sedan or Hatchback. Is this correct? And if it correct, has anyone experimented with fitting them the other way round. I have some ideas of what I think this would achieve but rather than describe them (because I could be wrong) I thought I would see what other peoples thoughts are on this.
  3. He Folks, I'm looking for replacement hubcaps for my 1979 BRAT. It has the white spoke wheels The hubcaps are very thin metal and go over the wheel studs BEFORE the wheel is installed I'd really like to get replacements just like them, but I suppose if there were different ones that snapped in from the exterior of the wheel, I'd take them as well. Picture below. Thanks in advance for any help
  4. Hello I just purchased an 85 Brat that needs a windshield. Does anyone know if the windshield is the same as the GL wagon? THanks
  5. Brakes on my 82 brat are not releasing pressure after breaking. Calipers will release when I turn the bleeder screw and about a tablespoon of fluid spits out under pressure. Rubber hoses have been replaced and the caliper and piston inspected and cleaned. I'm starting to think it might be something in the hilholder/fluid diverted mechanism? The cable on the hilholder was removed long ago and adjusting by hand the hilholder lever under the master cylinder doesn't seem to do anything to help. Anyone else ever had this problem or have a suggestion? Thanks
  6. I am driving 5 hours to pick up a 78 Brat tomorrow. All I know is that is constantly blows fuses, which cuts power to the car. The person who owns it says he removed/broke the hazard switch and it has been blowing fuses ever since. I'm renting a car, so If I can not get this car running, I will be stranded. Sounds like fun right? Anyone have an issue like this? Anyone know what's going on? Are there workarounds? Anyone willing to be on call when I work on this thing tomorrow? Anyone who helps me fix it, I will buy a six pack beers!! Thanks Everyone.
  7. Does anybody have advice or tips on removing the sliding rear window of a Brat? Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
  8. Was looking for skidplate designs to "borrow" and found these, and hadn't seen anyone mention them. http://get-primitive.com/wheels-rally-race-street/466-team-dyn-15x7-5x100-matte-blk.html Expensive, but easier than drilling or finding pugs. Note: I'm not affiliated with them in any way.
  9. Grimly

    78' Brat

    Recently bought myself a project. A 78' Subaru Brat. I bought it for a very decent price for what I got. It needs a lot of work on the body, but it runs very well. The progress is going well and I plan on running it stock until I get the money to put parts into it. Future plan (after stock); an engine swap to an EE20 (boxer diesel) and air bag suspension so that I can bring it back up to stock height from a lowered stance (not tucked or cambered) I'm stuck on what color and after market rims to go with. I would stick with the stock rims but it's hard to find tires for 13' rims. Any suggestions?
  10. Bought a clutch cable and it seems too long. Could somone show the routing and how it attaches to the pedal.
  11. But it is. Unfortunately. I'm sorry to ask but there is no one else in this world who has tried hard enough to get this to work. Unfortunately there is no spark. So here's the project. It's a EJ22T from a 93 Legacy (Auto) going into my 86 Brat (Manual) with a dual range 5 speed transmission from a 85 GL. I did not see this engine run as it was pulled out from a wrecking yard. Compression is solid. Only 165'000 km on the engine and it looks like it was dealership maintained. Everything is hooked up "properly" as so I've been told by what I would call "Subaru gurus". These are guys who have done numerous engine swaps before. Everyone has been amazingly enthusiastic, supportive and generous with this project as I could have imagined. It is all very much appreciated. However we can't figure out why shes not sparking. There is power to the coil. Coil has been checked of ohms and swapped out with three backups, they are all good. Plugs have been checked for ohms, they're good. Cam and Crank sensors have been checked for ohms, they are good and swapped again with checked and good sensors. Five grounds in the engine are good. ECU has been swapped three times and they are all good. It is grounded. Fuel pumps hard, fast and fresh. I'v had to replace a few connections due to old/dried out cracked wires but everything looks and tests good now! We're out of ideas now which is why I ask the godly experts of this board. Any thoughts or ideas are very much appreciated. Here are a couple galleries of the swap so far! http://imgur.com/a/EjDxS http://imgur.com/a/N6NzX
  12. so this morning for the first time since I figured out how to start my car in cold, I had one hell of a time getting it running. as I found out a few months ago, I have to pretty much prime the engine by stepping on the gas twice before cranking and itll fire right up. however this morning after doing the same thing, it just kept cranking with out firing. tried stepping on the gas while it was cranking, and nothing. after a minute of this it finally fired, but was only holding about 500 rpm idle. that's not so unusual, as ive seen it do this idle before. when I tried to bring up the rpm, it killed it right away. start it back up, same low idle. now I can bring it up to about 1000 before it dies. try again, and it goes to about 2000 before it wants to die. I held the rpm at about 1700 for a few minutes before I saw the temp needle move, and after that it seemed fine. im guessing my carb somehow threw it self out of wack, as ive had it be hesitant to rev up when cold like the mixture is off a bit. any ideas or consensus on my idea of whats wrong? and if it is the carb, where is the mixture screw? I believe I have the hitachi carb.
  13. So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
  14. So previously i had some headlight and blinker issues, and after taking 'grumpy car', as ive dubbed it, to a subaru dealer, they told me theres a short in the wiring harness and didnt fix anything. Yet somehow havent had blinker problems since. Anyways fastforward 3 months to now, my headlights completely stopped working, along with the horn, hazards (blinkers still functional), cooling fans and memory power for the dash clock. Did a fuse blow or a wire come loose or hopefully not some carestrophic short? From what ive seen any fuses i know of are still good, so im a little baffled
  15. So I know you can do it. But I have heard that you shouldn't remove the trailing arm. Anyone know why? Can anyone tell me or show me the steps to replace rear wheel bearings on my brat.
  16. Hi, I'm wanting to put power steering in my Brumby. It will have an EJ with EJ P/S pump. My major question is does the Legacy rack have less travel (turning circle) than the EA82 rack? I know the EA82 racks are very much like the EA81 racks for allowing sharper turning circles but the 2000 model Outback rack is very limited with turning circle.. Thanks, Phiz
  17. Not sure what this is... Or its purpose... Looks like i has a filter inside. Connecter to two vacuum lines? Maybe both are fresh air? Sits just to the rear drivers side of the intake manifold and engine. Off a 1986 GL Hatchback. Probably the same for Brats. Thanks! If you look close you can see that the two hoses connect to two different switches (?) on the intake manifold.
  18. Hello Subaru brethren. I have a major problem that needs attention. One week ago I tried to change the clutch. After finding that the clutch set was the wrong size, I cleaned of the old set with brake cleaner and put it back together. I lost a clutch fork clip so I rigged utility wire around the bearing to keep it together. When I started it up, It gets to the point on the temp gauge where the fans should kick on. It waits awhile staying the same temperature, but when the fans come on the temp gauge skyrockets almost to red. While driving the temp gauge gets all the way to red. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat (and gasket), radiator (and cap), engine temp sending unit, rad temp sending unit, and rad hoses. I have taken the thermostat out, put the housing back on and blown threw the hose to see if the engine pathway is blocked (it is not). The oil looks fine, the trans fluid looks fine, and the coolant is burped and topped off. No leakage of any kind. When the temp gauge is in the red, there is no extra heat or steam to be found, no smoke. The only thing left in my mind is a cluster issue or a grounding issue. If anyone has two cents to throw in I would greatly appreciate it.
  19. OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL
  20. Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.
  21. So I recently bought a 1986 BRAT and the man I bought it from said that you could put a 5-speed from a different model in the same generation. I was wondering if that is true and if so I was hoping you guys could help as to which trans it was, and some general buying tips. Thanks!
  22. I have a good running EA81 subaru engine and a good working 5-speed dual range 4x4 4wd transmission with a brand new never used clutch. I was going to put this set up im my subaru brat but decided to go a diffrent route. Im selling this because im going to collage on March 3rd and I need it gone or it has to go to scrap. so im asking $200 OBO. thank you for your consideration. If you're intrested please call me at (541) 323-5000. I'm located in Bend Oregon.
  23. hey cleaned engine and and replaced all gaskets but now my fuel pump doesnt work and distr. is not getting spark. what did i do?
  24. Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?
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