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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
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Hello Subaru brethren. I have a major problem that needs attention. One week ago I tried to change the clutch. After finding that the clutch set was the wrong size, I cleaned of the old set with brake cleaner and put it back together. I lost a clutch fork clip so I rigged utility wire around the bearing to keep it together. When I started it up, It gets to the point on the temp gauge where the fans should kick on. It waits awhile staying the same temperature, but when the fans come on the temp gauge skyrockets almost to red. While driving the temp gauge gets all the way to red. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat (and gasket), radiator (and cap), engine temp sending unit, rad temp sending unit, and rad hoses. I have taken the thermostat out, put the housing back on and blown threw the hose to see if the engine pathway is blocked (it is not). The oil looks fine, the trans fluid looks fine, and the coolant is burped and topped off. No leakage of any kind. When the temp gauge is in the red, there is no extra heat or steam to be found, no smoke. The only thing left in my mind is a cluster issue or a grounding issue. If anyone has two cents to throw in I would greatly appreciate it. -
Hello all! My brat has been driving strange for awhile and I would like to fix it. While driving in any gear, The RPM's will shoot up if I open the throttle all the away and the car will not move faster. This can happen in any gear but its the worst in 3rd. I tried to replace the clutch a week ago but it was the wrong size clutch set, so I cleaned the assembly with brake cleaner and slapped it back together. The clutch that was already there didn't look to bad but the inside of the bell housing was covered in black sludge and grease (maybe gear oil). I just want some input on the situation before I separate the engine and tranny again. Thank you, Zosojojo
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86 GL 5sp sporadically won't move
1cor6.nine-11 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi again friends. I recently had my clutch changed and immediately after, I had an issue where I would put the car in 1st or reverse, try to release the clutch and it couldn't move, making the engine bog down as if the emergency brake was on or the gears were somehow bound up. However, once I press and release the clutch, the car would take off as usual. Now it continues to bind up occasionally like that (maybe once per day) but an extra press and release of the clutch frees things up. It feels like maybe 4wd becomes partially engaged (just enough to bind - if that's even possible); however I don't understand why it would start immediately after the clutch was changed and why a press of the clutch would release it. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks in advance. JW 86 gl 1.8 5sp dual range 4wd -
I tend to count on my male folks to let me know when to stress about my car or not. Left to my own devices every little noise would get my heart rate up. Well, now my rear differential tried to explode on me. Can't even drive the Baja up the driveway to get it into the garage. Something about the clutch not having enough friction. The boys are coming round for beers and car work later so it is about to get pulled all apart. For now I have one picture of the crack in the rear differential. You'll note that there is oil actively leaking out of the rear differential so it wasn't that I lost lubrication and then it broke. Seems to me like one of those things that doesn't ever really happen. Anyone got any pointers or potential causes of the failure?
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My 2004 forester 88,000 miles just had the clutch replaced. A month later the hill holder engaged (suddenly and inappropriately). Could there be a relationship between the two? I'm wondering if a replaced clutch could impact the hill holder? -
Just replaced clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and fork. I'm sure the clutch is not in backward. Bleed the master and slave cylinder and can see travel of 1 3/8" at the slave cylinder, but the clutch won't disengage. Has anyone ever experienced this? Is the master cylinder adjustable to get more travel at the slave? Does anybody know how far the clutch slave cylinder should travel? -
All: Just completed my clutch swap about 500 miles ago. Replaced clutch, pressure plate, throw-out. Used the kit from SACHS that includes the sleeve for the throw-out bearing. Things are running fine...but the throwout bearing seems to be getting a little more noisy. You don't hear it when the clutch is pressed all the way in..but a bit of a rattle with the clutch out in neutral. Just wondering if this is normal for this setup with the sleeved throw-out bearing. Any help / thoughts would be appreciated. Subaru Legacy Wagon 1995 EJ22 / 5 Speed 185,000 Tom -
All: Put a new clutch in my EJ22 Legacy. The manual is not really good about how to adjust it...or it does not make sense to me. I also have the hill holder. I adjusted it out so the pedal takes about 1/4 off the floor. I left a little slack in the clutch fork...and tightened up the hill holder so it will not slip and ride the throw out bearing. I checked up by putting it in second gear with the parking brake on...and it stalled. (It did not slip) Sound right? BTW...I don't like the hill holder. If you are braking while down shifting it seems to keep the brake on a little. I may just need to get used to it. Tom
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All: My 1995 Subaru EJ22 is equipped with a hill holder function. I am just getting ready to hook everything back up after clutch swap and lots of PM. How does the hill holder work? It appears that it would engage the brakes every time I push the clutch in...since it will pull on the cable. Does this feature cause problems I should be aware of? Tom
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All: So the EJ22 has landed back in my 95 Legacy! Mating that transmission and engine is back up is more prayer and luck than science... I replaced the clutch and most all the seals and gaskets / sensors / filters. My question is how much should I button the engine back up before trying to start it? Should I just hook up electrical and clutch or the full deal? Hoping all goes well and there are no suprises. Any thoughts...lessons learned appreciated. Tom
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Hello All!! , OK, I got the sweet little 93 legacy wagon for my daughter,who has pretty much "learned" how to drive a straight shift on.For some reason the clutch is slipping....hmmmmm.(I did make sure it's all the way on adjustment). Any way, I figured it would need one soon so here I go....... My question : is the clutch change pretty much the same as my 84 gl wagon? Pull the engine,change parts,and rear main seal and valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket....etc etc ? Or is there anything special about it? Planning on doing the job Friday the 28th. ANY THOUGHT OF PULLING THE TRANSMISSION INSTEAD OF THE ENGINE??? Would it be easier that way? THANKS ALL!! -
Sorry if there is already a thread on this. I am new to this site. I have a 2005 Forester X with 166,000 miles on it. I recently had the head gasket replaced and while they were at it, I had them replace the clutch, timing belt etc. About a month later, I was driving and the clutch pedal lost all pressure except at the bottom 1/8th. The clutch still engaged and disengaged and I was able to drive it to work, but there was a very short excursion in which it engaged and disengaged. The rest of the way the pedal was very loose. That was yesterday. I read on a forum somewhere to pump it for a few minutes. Did that and left it overnight and it was fine the this morning. After driving for a bit, it became loose again, I pumped it, it tightened halfway, went out again and then firmed up again. When I brought it to the shop half way through the day and they said the clutch master cylinder might be going out, but did not listen very well to the symptoms and I am suspicious of them due to the history of this past repair, which has not been good. I would like to keep the vehicle but do not want to keep dumping hundreds of dollars into it if it would be better just to get a new one. Help! Does it sound like a master clutch cylinder problem? Or something else? Thanks! -
1995 Subaru Legacy L Wagon - MT / EJ22 / 186K So pulled the clutch today and found a suprise...attached. I now know what that noise was. I am thinking that the throwout bearing caused the damage. The throwout bearing looks good. But was missing a clutch sleeve clip / spring release clip / weight release lever as show in the diagram. It was super loose front to back / side to side when I pulled it. Plan to replace bearing / clips / springs / fork (has a stress crack). Just want to make sure I have covered all the bases. Thanks again! Tom
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All: I am the proud new owner of a 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon L. EJ22. Getting ready to pull the motor to replace the clutch and fix the wobble in the shifter. Any advice? While the motor is out does anyone have a list of things to change? I do have some oil leaks so I know the oil separator is on my list. In addition I see full gasket sets on eBay. Are those any good or do folks have a recommendation of which gaskets to use. Thanks in advance. Tom
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ive got a question about part interchangeability. the clutch release lever in my 88 gl 4wd broke almost in 2, and im currious if i could substitute it for one from a 2wd. im having trouble finding the leaver. auto parts stores dont carry it, and dealers almost dont have any. i need a functioning lever asap, as every day my car is not running, im losing money by being out of work. if anyone has one they can overnight or knows where to look, i would be very grateful. i know the part number for the one i need is 30531aa031 and the part number for the 2wd lever is 30531aa100.
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Anyone help me please! I changed my clutch. Used the old throw out bearing as it has the retrofit sleeve and bearing was of much better quality than the one supplied. Anyways all back together now the fork with the bearing/sleeve/retainer clip just seems to have way too much play I can't figure out what I did wrong maybe a picture if the fork assembled completely before mating to the engine would help Please help I need to fix today! -
Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?
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Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this? -
I have a 5 speed manual front wheel drive ea81 that I am wanting to fit an ej22 into. Here are the options I am looking at: FWD Impreza transmission: I read that the impreza ej22 fwd transmissions are 23 spline and so are the hubs of the ea81 cars. I also read that to use an ej22 transmission, I could use the front and rear crossmember pieces out of an xt6 and the center one out of a wrx. If so, are they a direct bolt in? And what year wrx would I be looking at? And is all of this possible? Is there any way I could fabricate some sort of crossmember or modify the original one to fit an ej transmission with just a drill and an angle grinder? Reusing my stock transmission: With these parts, would they mate up together? -ea81 clutch -Flywheel redrilled to the ej pattern -xt6 pressure plate. (I don't know if I have to get another throwout bearing or if I can reuse the one that's in there). -Adapter plate since the shaft of the ea transmission is longer than the ej transmission. Ea82 transmission: Readily available and really cheap. From what I understand they are pretty similar to the ea81 transmissions too, and I can pick one up with significantly lower miles than my current one for pretty cheap so I'd be willing to do it if it's not too complicated. The thing is that my stock transmission has 250000 miles on it, so I was planning on replacing it anyways and I'd have to pay $400 for a redrilled flywheel and adapter plate from sjr since I don't have any good machining tools. I was thinking that for that price I could just get a fwd ej transmission, am I right?
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replace the clutch and flywheel on 1989 3d GL 4 by 4 it is now smoking on start up in the clutch area. not exactly sure what is going on I believe I may need to adjust the clutch tension cable and the idle . I would appreciate some insight from someone who has done this before or understands how this is supposed to work -
First time posting on here so I'll do my best to explain what's going on... As the title says my clutch pedal hinge is worn out and and rubbing up against the medal and when I push the clutch in it moves around a lot. Since it moves around it doesn't allow the clutch to disengage the tranny all the way and I can't shift smoothly and can barely get it into reverse without damaging something in the tranny. My question is if any of you have had this problem and know how to fix it, or if it's even fixable? I never noticed before but, I'm assuming it had some kind of rubber bushing in there to keep it from rubbing up against the medal, if so, that's obviously gone.. Thanks for any info you can provide! -
1997 Legacy Wagon has been running strong and then, out of nowhere, the clutch pedal does something strange. First it loses return pressure and I struggle to get it in gear. Then after about three brief uses the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance and the stick refuses to go into any gear. The pedal pressure is non existent now. When engine is off, I can easily put the stick in any gear. When I start it in first, it starts and leaps forward confirming that it is in gear. The cable connections all look solid and rust free. Is there a return spring somewhere. The pedal one looks fine. The PHV spring is there at the end of the cable but I know nothing about PHVs. Since the cable seems to be functioning (but not returning) could it be the clutch or clutch fork? Can a clutch just die instantaneously like this? My stick linkage is the loosest I've ever felt. Related? Any advise is welcome. Thanks for your time and knowledge. -
So I can't get the pin off that goes through the end of the clutch cable and the clutch pedal. I can't figure out how to pull the pedal either. Please help me.
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Hey all! I have my eye on a taillight at a local Pick N Pull. My current passenger side cover got smashed when a transport truck backed into my Subaru a year ago. I can grab the back both taillight covers for 60.00 and I really want to do this first thing in the morning - Monday- I was able to score 2 Outback bucket seats yesterday - Saturday- and folks I tell you for 80.00 including taxes they are a wheel of a deal.. I will pick up seat covers to protect them for sure, because I destroyed the last ones being they had no covers. Back on the topic I just want to say thank you in advance for any info... I have undone the three nuts that are 5/16 in size however the covers still are not yielding and I am not sure what the next step is... My next question is that I want to replace the clutch on my 2.2 standard before this one goes. I am not sure how long a cutch is suppose to last however this one has been in there for 4 years and she has seen some serious action. I want to get a really nice clutch and install it myself for the experience so if anyone has any guidance to share that would be sweet as well. I would think the 2.2 would be a little less involved than this video but similar. http://youtu.be/2jePj03rsL0 thanks again for any help that anyone can offer or if you know of a thread elsewhere on the forum boards that would be cool.. please enjoy... my first hyper lapse tour with my precious beast... Cheers, Johnny CROWN LAND PRODUCTIONS -
Hello again, I've now drop my shiny rebuilt ea82 back into my loyale but I've got a concern... I haven't started the engine yet but I noticed that pushing in the clutch does nothing, and it feels pretty loose. If I put the trans in first and push the clutch in I should be able to push the car foward right?? As I understand it the loyale doesn't have a master and slave cylinder its just a cable straight to clutch release lever. I see the lever move but It doesnt feel like it's engaging the pressure plate? Any wisdom would be helpful.... Thanks!
