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  1. trying to figure out where the u shaped hose goes off the turbo can not find another port for the hose to go. so am i supposed to cap it off? i know its the coolant feed line so should i do what have deaw in the second pic with a piece of straight hose then cap off the intake port? or is the intake hose what makes preasure for the coolant pump?
  2. Typing this on a iPod so excuse my typing. Went away for the weekend, seven hour drive, on the way temperature gauge would rise from usual safe spot to red over 10 to 20 seconds, hold for a few seconds, maybe up to 10 seconds then fall to normal over about 5 seconds or so. Seemed to be no rhyme or reason as to why or when. As we went along the reading were peaking higher but always going back down and near the end of the drive would hold for a few seconds, max 5 or 10 seconds. We were turning the heat up and down but didn't think of that to after. The end of the drive was city driving and it seemed to happen more during that time. Coolant tank is full, maybe a little above the full line. There is some coolant repair stuff in the overflow tank. Coolant was last replaced about two years ago. All the driving in the past few months has been less than 15 minutes at a time, just around town. There has been a hot smell, little sour smell on occasion but with no other issues I chalked it up to a small oil leak that I've been tracking down. Not even enough loss to need to top up between oil changes (twice a year). I did replace the spark plug tube seals and the grommets and gasket on the plates there in May this year. I went under the steering wheel and connected the two green plugs to make sure the fans were working on the rad and cycled with no issue. Oil level was fine, half way between low and full. Oil and filter was replaced a few weeks ago. I've tried searing this forum and the wider Internet on this thing but it's difficult to say the least and lots of conflicting information, everything from just a sensor to air in the system to a belt or a head gasket. Since I'm not at home and have a long drive I'd really like some input if it is safe to drive home! Thank you in advance.
  3. Hello - I bought a '97 legacy EJ22 with 125k miles and a new head gasket installed by a mechanic (don't know the details). This was 10k miles ago and far, far away. Recently I started noticing dropping coolant levels. I found a big crack in the block-to-heater hose, flushed coolant (prestone kit) and replaced the hose, refilled with pure water. Now its overheating/low coolant again. It's very possible I hadn't re-bled the system properly. But here's the kicker... There is a distinct gas smell in the coolant and some clumps of white milky sludge. When drained the coolant smells burnt, has a vague oil slick on top, and is tinted yellow (it was clear water). HG, right? BUT, I did a combustion leak test to check for CO2 in the coolant, and it came up negative both times. There is also no bubbling in the coolant overflow tank. Could this be residue left over from the previous HG failure? Is it possible to get gasoline/oil in the coolant but no exhaust?
  4. Hey folks, I just got a 1998 forester 2.5 4AT for free. I drove it around for about a week and heard about head gasket problems, sure enough when I looked in the coolant bottle I found this 80% Oil 20% Coolant Premix. I just want a confirmation from you Subaru Professionals that this is indeed a bad head gasket/gaskets. there is no visible leak on the head-block mating surface but there is an Oil leak on the VC-Head surface. This Subie has over 260k miles on it so far, what can I expect from it? Thanks for the help folks.
  5. I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!!
  6. Sorry no question about cars here, but some related fluids. For a scientific experiment we have to rapidly freeze our samples. Normally we do this by dipping them in liquid nitrogen at approx -200 C. But this is in the lab, with a liquid nitrogen tap. Now we are going to conduct this experiment outside the lab and we can not take the liquid nitrogen. So we thought of an alternative: 1. Mixing ethylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, and add dry ice, now we should be able to reach -60 C in liquid state. But ethylene glycol is to toxic to work with! 2. Mixing propylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, same as number 1 but less toxic. However we can not get our hands on it from car parts shops, only from chemical supplier at 99% purity while 85% would be sufficient so it is quite expensive. 3. ATF, but when does it solidifies (or what is the melting point)? Other oils will be to viscous and to dirty to use, ATF I think is not so oily as motor or gearbox oil.
  7. Ok so I know I could have avoided this by running coolant. So really i just let the cold kill my car.. But my radiator has had a mean leak so I've been topping it off with water almost daily. It's a ea81 82' GL. Below freezing temps hit and froze all the water. Yesterday it happened aswell I started it up and the belt was squeeling on the water pump pulley so I shut it off then topped off the radiator with warm water and let it sit for a minute. I turned the pulley by hand to make sure it was not frozen and started it up. Warmed up fine and drive me to work and back. Today I start it up and same thing, all frozen. I let it run for about 30 seconds with the belt slipping on the frozen water pump pulley. Shut it off and added some warm water to melt the ice. It took a LOT of water this time. All the ice seemed to be melted. Turned it over again and it ran very rough the while motor was vibrating like it never has. I shut it off for a minute and turned it over again to have it start very rough and make one or two terrible knocking/clanking noises then die. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all like its seized/locked up. I pop the hood to find oil/water mixture oozing out of the intake!?? Into the air cleaner box. The water in the radiator had oil mixed in aswell. I know this is bad but my question to you is what's my damage?? I'm fairly new to cars so please bare with me. Thanks in advance !
  8. So my 87 carb'd GL has had cooling system issues since I got it. Due to an old clogged radiator. couple weeks ago I broke some of the fins on that old radiator and it started leaking. This was my GL's first cooling system leak. Got around to replacing the radiator while on a trip in Pennsylvania. I noticed along the drive that when the system was topped up with coolant I would have James Bond types of smoke (steam) clouds coming out of the back of the car on the highway. That's no good, so I replaced the radiator while I was there. Problem solved right? No. On the drive back to Jersey I still had occasional giant clouds of smoke out the back of the car on the highway. WTF right? Car stayed cool on the highway, got hot on local roads. Got the car home, haven't touched it in a week till now. Dug in and found that one of the bypass hoses had ruptured. It was leaking coolant on to the intake manifold and it would pool and eventually spill over right on to the exhaust. There's my steam out the back of the car. Documenting this for anybody searching issues like that. Steam out the back of your car and you're sure your headgaskets are okay? Chances are it's one of the small bypass hoses. The one that ruptured was the one coming from the thermostat housing. I've got replacement hoses for that particular hose, as well as another bypass hose that runs from above the water pump and wraps back and down just behind the driver's side of the Craptachi. I'm also replacing that small 90 * hose that comes from the top of the water-pump as well. I do have a question though; considering I have my air-box off and all these vacuum lines exposed, I've been trying to find GD's guide on what I can get rid of and cap off. Can anybody help me out there? It's just the stock Hitachi on an EA82. Thanks in advance. I HATE cooling system problems. Ugh.
  9. Hello, First time posting. I have looked around quite extensively but have not been able to pinpoint a similar topic. I have a 1985 GL wagon that runs great. Everything was working great until two days ago. I had not driven it for a week and a half because I was out of town. The temperature hear in Colorado was below 20 and as low as -10 for most of this time. Now once it gets warmed up to operating temp the heater does not work. The hoses going into the heater core are not particularly warm and when I squeeze them there doesn't seem to be anything in them. It will also start to over heat but then go back to normal temp occasionally. I checked coolant level and filled to maximum. Has anyone else experienced this or have any insight? I plan on getting a block heater soon but have a feeling that won't change much except for ease of starting. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Noah.
  10. I have 2001 Subaru Outback 2.4L Automatic wagon with about 190K miles. It runs great, however when it gets below 40 degrees farenheit, it has a few symptoms that are not present when the weather is warm. 1. Strong odor of gasoline, so much so that I cannot turn on heat unless the car is moving and wind is forcing the order to leave the engine area. 2. Overheating when driving more than 5-10 miles, regardless of uphill or downhill. At the end of last winter, I replaced the thermostat, drained old coolant, then refilled the system with 50/50 coolant to make sure I had a proper mix. Sure enough, I drove about 10 miles, and immediately saw the engine begin to near the red line. After this, I brought it to a mechanic and asked them to look for any problems and possibly check the water pump. They gave it back to me and told me the water pump wouldn't fail the way it is engineered, and they claimed that it had to be a head gasket problem. I don't believe they actually checked anything out because they didn't charge me after leaving it with them for three days. So, I saved up a little cash and it was around May, when things started to warm up. When I was ready to bring it in to have the head gasket replaced, the weather had consistently risen to 50-70 degreees farenheit and I was no longer having overheating issues. I was testing it on hills, and with AC on full, trying to get it to overheat with no success. So, I figured even if they replaced the head gasket, I couldn't verify that their work was successful until it got cold again, so I didn't do it. Now that we've had a couple weeks where mornings are below 30 degrees, all the symptoms are back, and they seem to be worse when it is really cold than just cold. I don't have anyway of proving that the gas odor and the overheating are related, but I never have one without the other. If I lived in a warmer climate, I don't think I would even be aware that there is an issue because it drives great in the summer and I have no issues, even on long road trips with the car packed and AC on full blast. Other info... I didn't see any excessive rust or metal particles when I flushed the coolant, I've always changed the oil regularly and i've used synthetic oil since it cleared 100K, no major mechanical failures but have replaced starter, alternator, knock sensor, belts when worn. Timing belt changed at 125K. Flushed & changed transmission fluid at 150K. I've regularly replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, & distributor cap, but I've never replaced the fuel filter or anything fuel related because I was always afraid of a spill and stinking up the garage and having to hear my wife complain for weeks while the smell went away. Please help me!! I've aked every mechanic that I've randomly run into and they only tell me that it's either thermostat, water pump, or head gasket, however none of those suggest that it would work fine in the summer but overheat and stink in the winter. Any insight and explanation could help. I'm at a loss. I don't want to spend $1500 for a head gasket replacement and find out that it was some other anomoly that only costs me $50. I love my Subbie and hope to get her to at least 300K miles.
  11. Hi all, Current vehicle of question: 1999 Outback Wagon, 2.5l DOHC, 120k, Second owners... This is a friend's car that I'm helping out with, and am hoping to get some good insight. Knew that this would be the place. Story: The car was bought last October, and has had 9000 miles put on it by a very calm and defensive driver... They started noticing the thermostat indicating it getting hot. After watching it, they noticed the coolant was low, and that they needed to add. Then they noticed air being forced into the coolant reservoir. They took it to a few independent subaru shops, and got the same answer: Blown Head Gaskets, and bad Viscous Coupler (for a different post....). So we pulled the motor, and started getting the heads off. It had the old style HG (http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/), and they were both bad My question has to deal with the driver side head in particular... While taking the intake camshaft retainers off, a pressurized aqueous solution squirted out at us from under the retainers. Also, two of the camshaft retainer bolts were heavily corroded. Is this a sign of a cracked head? I plan on submerging the head in a tub of water, and spraying compressed air into the retainer bolt holes. If there are bubbles from anywhere, I'm assuming the head is bad? Should we be concerned with the block internals being compromised? How much should another head cost, and should they just slap a 2.2L in there (I'm in favor...)? The oil that we drained from the pan is not chocolaty/frothy. And there was maybe a gallon of coolant that drained out of the system. Thanks, Greg
  12. Okay, so about two weeks I swapped my EA82's longblock. It came with a brand new water pump. The first day, I noticed some coolant loss, but it was a combination of bleeding the system, letting coolant pump through every hose, and I didn't fill up the overflow tank. By the second day, she was holding coolant nicely. About a week later, I notice the temp gauge is reading a bit higher than normal (not overheating though). Up until then, I noticed no coolant loss, and I was checking it every day. However, the radiator went dry and there was no coolant in the overflow tank. I noticed no visible leaks. Filled her up and wanted to double check the coolant to make sure. Wasn't noticing any problems, until I turned the car off when I got to work today. As always, I look back at my car when I walk away, haha. But this time, I noticed coolant was dripping pretty fast out the bottom of the car. I crawl underneath, and find it's dripping from the oil pan onto the skidplate onto the ground. Pop the hood, and notice no visible leaks. Completely dry of coolant, but yet it's still dripping out onto the ground. I had to clock on, so I left the car sitting. Nine hours later, I need to get home. First thing I did was adjust the metal pipe that fits in between the driver side radiator hose and the water pump. Adjusted it so it sits better on the water pump. I start adding some coolant, and it starts dripping out the bottom again. Again, no visible leaks. Luckily, I only live 5 minutes from work, so I was able to drive it home. Got home right as the temp gauge reached its normal readings, so it didn't overheat. Turned the car off, and noticed smoke coming out of the grill. Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed around the water pump. At this point, it is NOT dripping coolant on the ground. So anyways, anyone have tips? I searched topics on water pumps, but there aren't many threads about it. Best solution I could find is that new water pumps will do this, especially if there's debris in the cooling system, and it'll eventually fix itself. I can do some work in the morning, but should I just run the car a bit more and see if it fixes it? Oh, I forgot to mention that I've noticed no other problems. No overheating, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, etc. Here is video of it dripping out, and what happened when I got home: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs_l8KwI0I4&list=PLWKW712Na2Z5uYMhUIrlkcgGSaNQ8ozGA&index=1 Thanks for any help! 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 (swapped exactly 400 miles ago, has 116K on the motor, new water pump, longblock)
  13. Hey folks, So I finished my EJ22 swap into my '92 Loyale, and hit the road. Thankfully for me, I'm on my way back... Just have to say, for a motor that had 230k miles, power is great. But I think the rings are bad, being that I'm having to replace oil if I travel at rpm's above 3k... But, my DILEMA! While driving at sustained interstate speeds, there is an intermittent popping/thudding coming from the floor near the gas pedal and the passenger's left foot. You can hear it, and if you put your hand as far up under the dash by the gas pedal, and also by the passenger's left foot.. You can feel the thumping. It feels like something his flapping around and hitting the shell of the car... I have already gotten under it. There's nothing hanging/loose. I started trying to move everything/anything I could get my hands on. Everything feels fine. Nothing wiggly/jiggly. The noise reminds me of the first few corn kernels that start to pop when making your own popcorn. Just kinda sporadic. The vehicle is performing well. No error codes. Fuel economy is in the low 30's right now. No problem accelerating up a hill, All gears work, although I think that the synchronizing gear for third is beginning to ware. I've been trying to trigger/kill the sound. I hear it after sustaining speeds, then if I downshift it'll stay through each gear until I'm about ready to come to a complete stop/put transmission in neutral. I tried taking it out of gear and coasting for a while. Makes it go away for about ten-20 minutes of high speed . BUT, at the same time, I experimented with a coast-to-stop as soon as I heard it next. Well I kept it in neutral, and revved it up and down while coasting. The sound/thump/pop would start and fade. Doesn't happen in City traffic. Also noticed that my speedometer has to catch up sometimes while hitting interstate speeds.. I was wondering if the coolant lines could be popping? I feel like it's in the same area as the heater core as well? Could there be an air bubble in the system? I've had to replace about 3oz of coolant every so often since putting the motor in. No white smoke. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Greg
  14. Okay, I give... What is the name of the little iddy biddy hose that runs from the underside of the thermostat housing to the intake manifold on my EA82. Anyone got a part number for it? My NAPA guys can't seem to find the part I'm looking for. They said they had it but the one they gave me is the 5/8" 90 degree hose from the pump to the heater. Anyone got a part number handy for this little item?
  15. Sorry forum posting virgin here ... but I had an issue last night that I think maybe you guys on here have some smart advice for me Some background: I have had my Subaru Legacy 1996 since 2004 and it has about 140k miles on it now. It hasn't had any major issues lately and has always been a reliable machine. The Event: So last night around midnight after spending some time with the guys, I was driving home on the freeway/highway/motorway at a leisurely pace (around 55-60 mph) and suddenly my car started to lose power. I had to down shift to get any juice from the car and made it to exit. When I got to the exit ramp, all the lights on the dash lit up (check engine, oil, etc) and my steering got very stiff, but since I was going only 10-20 mph, I was able to control it and continue rolling down the hill to the end of the exit. I down shift all the way to 1st by the time I got to bottom of the exit, but then I noticed I was getting power back. I slowly made a right turn and drove into an empty parking lot and drove around without any noticeable issues. Luckily I was about 2 miles from home and took surface streets home without any issues. I was in 4th gear heading home and rolled down the window, but didn't hear anything out of the normal. When I got home it was too dark to look under the hood, but this morning I popped the hood. The ground under the car was dry, but the bottom of the car looked oily (but I don't know if that has been that way for a while or if it was new). The coolant tank was empty and I think the rest of the oil levels look ok .. the motor oil was a low but not empty. Anyways, the mechanic I would have taken my car to is closed today so I probably won't be able to get it to him till Monday, but maybe someone on here has some ideas of what this may be all about. Thanks in advance and I am finally no longer a posting virgin!!!
  16. Hey guys this is my first post and I searched the best I could but could find nothing. So I had my hood popped and with the keys out of the ignition there was a faint buzzing coming from the radiator area. I open'd the overflow coolant side and the buzzing stopped. What the hell right? Closed it and it started again. I topped up the coolant which it took maybe a 1/2 liter total ran it for awhile and it stopped. I've been loosing a little coolant lately but not a whole lot. I have the X model auto. I'm lost, any thoughts would be great!
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