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Showing results for tags 'ej25'.
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Hi all, so a lot has happened since I last posted, right now I'm up to my neck in rebuilding my engine. Sort of. Long story short, my last oil change I decided to try synthetic blend because my buddy kept bugging me about how good it is and how much better it wears and blah blah blah. I know it's good stuff, just when it's used in the right situation. I put blend in and then unknown to me, my engine started leaking oil a lot faster than I realized. One day coming home from work the engine died on me and when I started it again I got a terrible knocking noise. My oil had gotten way too low, and the damage had already been done. All my rod bearings were shot and I just found out my crankshaft is toast. Due to time and money restrictions I've got a reman'd short block on it's way as well as a new clutch and a master seal and gasket kit that has new oil and water pumps. The only thing left is I would like to replace the timing belt and all its paraphernalia. I've looked at the stuff direct from Subaru and I've also looked at kits on eBay and Amazon and I'm not sure which would be better. Can anyone recommend one or the other? I'm not afraid to just get them from Subaru but are the cheaper kits on eBay and Amzon any good? Thanks for any help in advance David -
Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
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I've been working on swapping an engine from a 99 legacy outback (manual transmission) in to a 98 forester (automatic transmission) I finally went to put the engine in the forester today and noticed the one of the studs on the engine wasn't protruding through the transmission bell housing. So I looked over the old engine I had pulled from the forester and noticed that it only had two studs on the engine whereas the one from the outback had four. After many creative searches and reading many threads I had decided to see if anyone in this community of knowledge has any light to shed on this for me. This seems like an uncommon configuration for the studs on a EJ25 as most pictures I have see only have the two bottom studs. So can I pull the stud from the engine and just use the old bolts off the forester as I was planning to do? If so how do you remove the stud? Are they any other weird problems that I am likely to run into and should gear myself up for? It seems like 99 was a magic year for the EJ25...... Since I am writing this up I had one question regarding the lining up of the drive plate with the torque converter. Is there an easy way to line up the bolt holes or do you just have to guess and then move the drive plate by rotating the engine. I have it lined up now, and I doubt it will get out of line when I pull the engine, I'd just like to know if there was an easier way in the future. This is a picture of the engine I removed. I did find a picture of the an engine with the stud configuration like mine.
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So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
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I have a custom built 1996 ej25 turbo that is broken. The crank pulley wobbles, knocking sound in the case. The motor is in my 1974 Westfalia conversion. That being said, Id like to replace it with a JDM. Im open to an ej20, ej22 or ej25. Id like to essentially do a long block swap with all my existing stuff, minus the turbo if need be. Is there a reference data base or web site of what motors and what years use the same exhaust manifolds/headers, same intake manifold bolt positions etc. etc.? Basically, do the heads have the same bolt patterns? Please advise -
I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets. -
I bought this 1997 Outback DOHC with 198,000 miles about a year ago. Just after purchasing the car I took the car for a road trip from Seattle to Santa Barbara while towing a 400lb trailer. About two hours from SB my car started to overheat. This was strange because I had recently had the radiator replaced. When I opened the hood the pressure cap on the radiator had fluid on it and the overflow reservoir for the coolant was overfull. After the car cooled, I took the cap off and started the engine while filling the radiator from the top. I nursed the car to my final destination. On the way home from this same drive I had another overheating when I pulled off the freeway and went to the gas station. I let the car sit and then the next day took it to a jiffy lube to have the cooling system purged and filled, eliminating any air pockets. I was able to make it the rest of my trip without any hitches but I still had suspicions. Since this trip the car overheated twice and then finally when I checked the car after another overheat I found oil in the coolant reservoir. Since then I have pulled the engine and got the heads off. I am not a trained mechanic and wanted to hear another persons opinion about my cylinder walls and heads. I want to know if it is worth installing new head gaskets on this motor or if I should search for a new block and machine the heads. Thanks in advance!
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Anyone help me please! I changed my clutch. Used the old throw out bearing as it has the retrofit sleeve and bearing was of much better quality than the one supplied. Anyways all back together now the fork with the bearing/sleeve/retainer clip just seems to have way too much play I can't figure out what I did wrong maybe a picture if the fork assembled completely before mating to the engine would help Please help I need to fix today! -
I'm thinking 25d block, 22e heads, cometic gasket, all with the ej18 intake so I don't have to touch wiring (that stuff scares me ). Doing this for cheap power in my imp. Good or bad idea? Or maybe just throw a 25d block inbetween my heads. I just miss my power from my 2.5gt. -
Hey all from Spokane, WA! Im looking at getting my first Subaru And i found a guy wanting to sell his 2000 Impreza OB sport. Problem is, he says in the messages we have sent back and forth its a 2.5L but i havent found definitive evidence of an '00 OBS with a 2.5 liter. Iam new to Subies but like most of my interests i research the crap out of it before i buy. Am i misinformed or does he not know the difference maybe? -
So I've already got the EJ25, from my legacy, sourcing a 22 block won't be hard. Head gasket is tricky to me, where to modify it for oil lines ect. Also engine management, should I get a megasquirt? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149590-anyone-built-a-reverse-frankenmotor/ I read through this thread which is quite good except there's some things I diassagree with ej22t crank & rods -- same as the non turbo ej25 (NA) block halves. The whole point of this is to use the ej22 short block ej25 DOHC heads ('96 with hydro adjusters) -- should be able to just use my heads newer EJ25 flat top pistons -- Aren't my current pistons/ the 22's pistons sufficient? ej20g intake manifold with 440cc injectors -- One of the 2 manifold I have will be good, no? vf8 turbo (ej20g) ej22t exhaust (until I put the downpipe in) ej22t fuel pump 2002 WRX top mount IC ej22t bypass valve (I replaced with the TurboXS one) ej22t ECU & wiring harness. original ej25 harness/ECU is gone, and the ej22t ECU sits in it's place, and is all wired in, and I can check code like normal (ej22t way) -- I shouldn't have to use a 22 turbo block, can just use a normal block, almost the exact same. So the wiring harness mesh is moot then, right? Would absolutely love to do this build, but need to have all the parts before I do the biuld, and have as much of it pre assembled as I can as it's my dd. Thanks - H
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Hey guys im currently doing a clutch replacement and since it has over 200k miles on it i just bought a new flywheel from Napa and i didnt notice that it was missing the center piece where there has 6-8 holes for the flywheel bolts...i'll upload pics down below. this flywheel has the center peice this flywheel does NOT have the center piece from napa.... Now my question is do i return it for a flywheel that has the center piece or am i suppose to buy the center piece and press it in? a quick response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again US community!
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What size tires can I put on a 99 LGT lifted with 99 outback struts? And what could I fit with struts and Springs from the same model?
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SOLVED I replaced my knock sensor by taking off the intake and then the throttle body since I have very big hands, and now when I turn it on the car goes to 5k rpm and stays there. Any ideas? I also relocated the knock sensor to a higher position as per suggestion somewhere on rs25, do you think that's the problem?
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Hello again USMB. Have a look at the new build my roommate and I started over the summer. It’s a 1968 IRS conversion; it has FOA shocks with 14" rear travel, 12" front travel, 18" ground clearance and an EJ25 stuffed into the roll cage. We will also be using a “mild” turbo as well as a Subaru 5 speed transmission.
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Hey guys. So I'm planning on doing an ej swap into my ea wagon this summer, and although I was planning on using an ej22, I have easy access to two ej25s. One is a SOHC with an incomplete harness, don't know what it came out of or what year it is. The other is a DOHC sitting in a wrecked 97 legacy, complete. From what I understand, the SOHC is the more desirable of the two. So I'm wondering if i can use the wiring and ecu from the DOHC on the SOHC? Is there anything else I would have to swap to make it work? I've seen people ask similar questions, but couldn't find any answers for my situation, so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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Can someone please help me out... I am savvy turnin wrench's but I am not super familiar with Subarus. So here's where I'm at, I bought a good used EJ25 to swap the EJ25 in the Mrs's Outback. Now that I have the rented engine hoist in the garage, long block to swap in on the garage floor ready to swap in, I start stripping down the motor in the car to pull and then realize the heads are different... manifold looks to be different, but to my eye everything else looks the same. So here is the existing motor/head... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...4&l=4bf238d1bc https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=73830742ff Here is what I "planned" to swap in... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...3&l=aec137cf78 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=55cb9b6633 Considering there is obviously a difference, what are my options? I was told the motor was from a 99, the vehicle is an 01 (Legacy Outback, Auto) -
Unfortunately I have a knocking rod in my engine and need to get a new replacement engine. Don't know much about Subaru engines, but trying to find an engine to order online. Wondering if anyone could help me understand what I exactly need to get! It would be more than appreciated. My engine right now is the 2005 2.5L AT EJ25 SOHC and I believe it is the California Emissions model. What year engines will suffice and be able to fit? Also, do I have to worry about the California Emissions part when getting the new engine? Thanks! -
Thanks as always for the help. Love these forums. On my 1999 Legacy Outback (2.5L DOHC), I recently replaced my timing belt & components after a slipped tooth resulted in poor compression and misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. Before the timing belt replacement I got 90 and 80 psi compression on cylinders 1 and 3, respectively. Now I get 210 and 60 psi respectively. (On cylinders 2 and 4 I got 190 and 180). I detailed this info in this thread. A friend advised a leakdown test next. I put Cylinder 3 in TDC, held it in place with a socket and breaker bar, dialed input pressure up to 75 psi and got 72-73 on the other gauge, i.e. approximately 3-4% leakage. I could hear a quiet hissing through the oil fill cap. 1) Do these numbers seem right---i.e. are the results of my leakdown test consistent with the compression test? Want to make sure I'm doing it right. 2) Assuming it is right, this means I have worn piston rings or cylinder walls, right?
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Legacy EJ25D 2.5L DOHC. Engine began running rough and idling rough a few weeks back, CEL diagnostic codes said cylinder 1 & 3 misfire. Diagnosed with a compression test. Cylinders 1 and 3 were getting 90 and 80 psi respectively. Cylinders 2 and 4 were 190 and 180 respectively. I just put the timing belt back on and re-checked compression on the right side. Cylinder 1 is now getting 210 psi, but Cylinder 3 is only getting 60. (Note---I did this before the engine was all back together, so I didn't idle it beforehand and the compression test was run on a cold engine.) I'm pretty sure I got back the power I was lacking when the timing belt slipped. Just took it for a spin and it feels about the same as I recall it in terms of acceleration. So, it's possible that cylinder has been underperforming for some time... Now that I have the results of a compression test and verified timing is like new again, is there anything further I can do without getting into expensive territory (valve work... piston rings etc.)? This is an old car (228k miles).
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Searched with no luck. Anybody got the cometic part # for the gasket to put EJ22e heads onto the EJ25 block?
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Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU
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Howdy folks, Newbie here. I need to inspect my timing belt---suspected jumped a tooth... see earlier posts by me in the last couple of days if you're interested in the full saga. I removed radiator, accessory belts already. Last step before removing timing belt cover is the crankshaft pulley, and I don't know how to get it off. I began following this tutorial by MercedesDieselGuy on youtube He advocates a bit of a redneck method for loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt (bracing a breaker bar against the body and cranking the motor for a split-second). I applied WD-40 beforehand and followed his advice; it loosened up with no problem. (It was only later that I came across this thread where user Alias20035 said (s)he doesn't like that technique, but as far as I can tell I didn't bork it). I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt entirely, and the pulley itself stays in place. It rotates just fine (I'm using an old leather belt & vice-grips), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it to slide out. MercedesDieselGuy, in the youtube link above, recommends turning the pulley clockwise to align the hash mark with the "0" reading stamped on the timing belt cover. (Later in the vid he seems to change his mind; thinks that step may be unnecessary). In any case, I did that (using a white paint mark I found on the front face & grooves of the pulley) and it doesn't seem to help with yanking the pulley. The timing belt cover seems to be plastic---so there was nothing solid to brace against when I tried wiggling a prybar gently. Other notes: the grooves at the back of my pulley are banged up, a couple of chips, making me think previous owner &/or a sloppy mechanic had the same trouble I am having, and tried brute force. Finally, I used a small mirror and my headlamp to get a good look at the pulley's center hole. I can see a notch at the back of the pulley on one side; hard to tell if it's part of pulley or another component/bushing behind it. But if I slowly turn the pulley with my belt wrench while watching with the mirror, I can see the notch rotates with the pulley. Is that back notch the "crank key" referred to in the thread I linked above? Any advice on how to get this dang thing off? Is there a trick to it? Thank you!
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I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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The EJ251 engine in my 2002 Forester weighs 119 kg (262 Lbs). I had trouble finding this info online, so I thought that I would post it here. I had taken the engine out to replace the clutch, and before resting the engine on the floor, I weighed it on my bathroom scales. Not exactly 100% scientific, but close enough. The weight is for a bare engine: - No oil; - No coolant; - No A/C pump; - No Alternator; - No Power-steering pump. But includes: - Flywheel and clutch; - Timing-belt, all idlers and covers; - Main drive-pulley; - Rocker-covers and spark-plugs in place; - Engine-mounts attached; - Intake & Exhaust manifolds attached.
