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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Hello Everyone, I just picked up this car with an EA81 with bent pushrods. I have the engine out, on a makeshift bench and ready to fix the issue. This is my first time working on an engine, so I will need your help and guidance. Really looking forward to ripping this thing apart and finally seeing what happens inside this thing. Preliminary questions: What are some good must-have resource for the job I am undertaking What special tools will i need What are big DON'TS while ripping this apart I am doing this for the first time and really want to understand the inns and outs, language, terms so any resources I should check out, let me know The Issue, my current situation, what should I do? Picked the engine up, creatively moved it by myself to my new homemade bench Here is how she sits now, all the bolts are out, but this flywheel casing will not come off from the engine. I didn't want to force anything, so thought it would be a great time to stop and actually find out what to do next. I was trying to take it apart to get to the Cam to see if there is any damage to the cam. bolts out The push rod that was bent is the 3rd one from the left. So if we count 1, 2, 3, 4 stating with the one furthest to the left. Number 3 is the one that was bent. (drivers side of engine) On this side If we count 1,2,3,4 number 2, was not bent but it was stuck. Number 2 and number 3 are right across from each other, I imagine both are activated by the same cam. (if thats the right way to say that) this is the passenger side of the engine. Looking for any tips or advice, thanks a ton!
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okay so i have basically completed the ej swap, everything except the wiring. most the wiring is done but i cant get it to run. considering hiring somebody to troubleshoot. how much would somebody with ej wiring experience charge to come over and trouble shoot my wiring issues? I live in Woodinville thanks in advance
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My 98 Legacy has a constant ringing noise coming from the engine, which becomes louder as the RPMs rise. I've attached a video of the noise at idle; I suspect it is from the pulleys, but I'd like a second opinion. is the video. -
I am in the process of pulling the engine on my 05 outback. 2.5i NA. it has high mileage and the water pump froze/melted and snapped the timing belt. I need to rotate the crank to access the flywheel bolts. How can I set the camshaft pulley so I can rotate the crank without any further damage being caused. Do I have to pull the rocker arms off? I plan on going through the motor and rebuilding it. -
I'm having power to throttle ratio jerking and sluggishness issues in my 2005 Forester. I have a 5spd manual transmission. I know I have an Oil Pan Gasket leak and some belt slipping which I hear as an squeak especially when the AC is on. What are some trouble shooting methods and or obvious Maintenance I can do to resolve this issue? -
I have a 5 speed manual front wheel drive ea81 that I am wanting to fit an ej22 into. Here are the options I am looking at: FWD Impreza transmission: I read that the impreza ej22 fwd transmissions are 23 spline and so are the hubs of the ea81 cars. I also read that to use an ej22 transmission, I could use the front and rear crossmember pieces out of an xt6 and the center one out of a wrx. If so, are they a direct bolt in? And what year wrx would I be looking at? And is all of this possible? Is there any way I could fabricate some sort of crossmember or modify the original one to fit an ej transmission with just a drill and an angle grinder? Reusing my stock transmission: With these parts, would they mate up together? -ea81 clutch -Flywheel redrilled to the ej pattern -xt6 pressure plate. (I don't know if I have to get another throwout bearing or if I can reuse the one that's in there). -Adapter plate since the shaft of the ea transmission is longer than the ej transmission. Ea82 transmission: Readily available and really cheap. From what I understand they are pretty similar to the ea81 transmissions too, and I can pick one up with significantly lower miles than my current one for pretty cheap so I'd be willing to do it if it's not too complicated. The thing is that my stock transmission has 250000 miles on it, so I was planning on replacing it anyways and I'd have to pay $400 for a redrilled flywheel and adapter plate from sjr since I don't have any good machining tools. I was thinking that for that price I could just get a fwd ej transmission, am I right?
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I've been bumping around the internet looking at different options for under-hood work lights to install in my lifted 87 GL. I've always just used a head lamp, but a dedicated light would be cool. Here is one option I found from DDM: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DRL-PODs. What do you use and how do you like it?
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After replacing my radiator I started with a distilled water/white vinegar mix, then three rounds of water flushes. On the water flushes I used the factory-preferred method and had some pretty interesting results. Before I explain what happened, let me tell you what did NOT happen:The engine did not overheat. The temp gauge didn't budge above normal at all after reaching operating temperature. I attribute this to massaging the radiator hoses a whole bunch before capping the system each time.The check engine lamp never came on. As in, not once. Not even a flicker.I did not change throttle position at all when the phenomena began, until noted in the video.It was repeatable enough to happen on three consecutive "burps." So, what did happen? About 6 or 7 minutes into my 10 minute burp procedure, I would lose control of the throttle. Mind you, this is a drive-by-cable throttle, and I hadn't changed the throttle position at all. When this happened the rpms would drop down to about 1,250, then up to 1,750 rpm and repeat until I either floored the throttle, or backed out and let the engine idle. What the hell is going on? -
Does anyone have experience with the engine siezing? There was plenty of oil and the dealership told me that it looks like a valve spring failed and caused the catastrophe. Short block and pistons being replaced, ancillary parts being rebuilt or reused. Any other concerns here? Had I been 5ft further, I would have been in the middle of a busy road. Anther 10 miles and I would have been on the highway. Kind of freaked out here... -
I was recently hit head on, mainly DS headlight assembly, bumper, quarter panel. Bodywork complete/beautiful. BUT now engine light, cruise CTL, and sport lights blink. As shifts electrically, new alternator/ belts and battery terminal lines done. After about 40 min, I lose Overdrive and 1st (limp mode?). Please help! At wits end!!! -
Hello all! I have owned my '92 subaru loyale for 3-4 years now and it has always ran strong. It has recently been asking (kindly) for some repairs, and I have been trying to decide if I should just sell it and get a new car, or put money into it and have it run for another 100k. I just recently decided to go for the repairs option, and suddenly it died... completely. I came here hoping to get some advice on what is wrong with it. Here is the scenario: Went to work like I do every morning, worked all day, and when I went to go home it wouldn't start. It cranks over fine, but acts as though it has no ignition at all (not even a sputter). I checked everything: It has 47lbs of fuel pressure, there are no CEL codes, the distributor was a little worn, but replacing the cap and rotor did not help. When I first check it had spark at the plugs, and gas, but no running. I had to get a ride home that night, I went back the next morning and checked the fuses. After I checked the fuses I thought I would give it another shot. To my surprise it actually started! I left it running, and shortly after it warmed it it died (in a hurry... again, not sputter, just dead). Ever since it died the second time I haven't been able to get it to sputter at all. There is a spark from the coil (though I must admit it seems slightly erratic), and the coils resistance reads right at around 5ohms. Bottom line: * Has gas * Spark (ish? as far as I can tell) * Distributor rotor is turning, so at least ONE of the timing belts isn't broken (not sure how to verify the other isn't broken) * No check engine light * Before when it ran, and when it ran for a little while it purrs like a kitten... no sputter, no funny sounds. Any ideas? In theory '92 is supposed to have fuel injectors, but I can't find them (the fuel line goes to what appears to be a carburetor). Also, the distributor IS actually a good old fashioned distributor (not an Ignition Module). Thank you!
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Here's my situation: I bought a used 2005 Forester X 2.5L SOHC w/ 4-speed Auto Trans with 65,000mi. About a year ago I ran it out of oil (and I'll never hear the end of it). Sounds like a rod is knocking. Between my dad and my brother who is a VW tech, I can get the engine in and out of the car. The problem is that I'm finding it insanely difficult to find info on this engine as well as the car's compatability with other engines. The info off the timing cover reads: EJ253BXSAB-0D8 459576 LC 10 Don't know how to interpret this past the 253. I want to rebuild the engine, but having mostly worked with GM vehicals (I'm the first in the fam to own a Subaru) I know little about these.I thought maybe it would be smart to drop another engine in while I rebuild so that the car is driveable, but the only exact match available through LKQ is nearlly $2,000 shipped. A bit pricey. I was told over the phone by an engine salesman that an EJ20 would drop right in and that the 06+ EJ253s would not, but I have no idea how they would and would not match up. Also, I've learn from experience not to take the words of a salesman to heart. I understand the basics of engine timing, but I don't know how the ECU compatabilites differ between models. I realize I'm asking a lot but I'm just at a loss and need help. If experience were not a factor, would it be a good option to start the rebuild? Or is there another inexpensive option for interchanging? I realize there is a lot of good info in these forums so If something has already been discussed, I'd appreciate a link. -
Hello! My name is Corey and I live in Arvada Colorado and own a 94 Subaru Loyale Wagon and would like to beef it up. Get a lift on it maximize my engine power and upgrade the tranny/drive to allow for some off-roading and mudding. I invision a "mad max" style road warrior car and i wanna do it right but still holding on to some of my cash while i do it. if anyone has any information on how to: Lift by at least 4" Upgrade the current engine or suggest upgrade options Any information on what i need to do to ensure sufficient power for transfer case/drivetrain. I do have a second 88' Loyale I was going to use to cannibalize for parts which has everything in tact, just older. but again suggest what i can and cannot use from that for what I would like to do. thanks for checkin it out! - Corey -
I'm starting a thread about an issue I'm having and to see what suggestions anyone might have. We just swapped over the engine in a 2005 Saabaru 92x aero. The original engine was a ej205. The replacement engine is a reman ej255 long block unit from ATk for a 2005 wrx application.. We swapped over all of the components from the old engine with some minor modifications. We are using the ej255 heads and blocked off the cam sensor holes and avcs holes as we are not utilizing that system. We relocated the cam sensor back into the original location on the driver side head with an aftermarket bracket. The problem we are having now is that we have a no spark condition. We are getting an injection pulse and also a pulse to the ignition coil but no spark. Not sure of what amount of voltage I should be getting for a signal. We verified power and ground to coils. We verified on the back of the cam gear that the trigger points are identical to the old 2.0l cam gear amount of teeth etc. We verified that the crank gear also looked the same and had the same amount of teeth. Factory part numbers are the same for the crank gear for the two engines. We also checked timing belt marks verified everything lined up properly. I'm kind of at a loss here now any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. -
Hi, I am a new Subaru owner of a 07 impreza 2.5i. I'm interested in doing some work to it to give it some more power and better handling and shifting. If like to know what are some good stuff to buy that are not too too expensive but still good quality. Also I would like to know how much performance tuning can I do to the engine power with out having to do internal motor work. Please give me any advice and pointers thank you.
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I see talk of EA this and EJ that. I'm assuming these are the Trans or Engine types of the particular vehicles in discussion. Does anyone have a complete list with matching years and models (or at least OEM installation)? What is under my stock 2008 Legacy Outback 2.5i 5MT? My transmission is labeled: TY758VCABA-GA (which is about the only ID I could find on it.) -
So i have an extra EA82 that has about 90k on it, it was running well until the head gasket went. When i took it apart i noticed one of the cylinders had a pitted rust spot about a quarter of an inch square near the end of the piston stroke. I dont remember it smoking, but it probably was to some extent. Would it be worth boring and getting enlarged pistons if i could do the boring myself? I'm currently going to school as a machinist and may have the correct machines to do it at home. But ive read that the EA82 is not worth boring for cost reasons. Has anyone had a bore job done on their EA82? how did it work out for you? Any and all discussion on this topic is welcome and appreciated. -
I bought a 1998 Subaru Legacy Brighton a few weeks ago needing "a clutch and an oil change." While it does need both, there is also an oil leak i cannot trace. My entire underside was oil on it, but the drip is dripping off of the oil pan, where most of the oil is coated on. I think it's either the plug/plug seal, the gasket, or the oil pan itself. If i replace that, i would do all of those, but i wanted to know if there are any other possibilites for issues before i invest in that. Here's the leak at the oil pan:
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I am new to this forum as of today, and I would like some feedback from what I wish would be a decent forum post (with hopefully correct tags): My 93' Subaru Legacy LS Sedan 4spd Auto. has been with me for ~3-4 years. It was bought used 260k. Long story, I had driven on the engine with out oil ironically on my way to an oil check up. It was unbeknownst to me that the engines oil was low, but I knew I was due for a check up. Anyway, engine died completely, no rescuing it (in my opinion) based on financial incapability and not a general car person anyway to know if it was fixable. Bought a new engine from an auto junkyard, working CORE. No problems, 105k miles 800 dollars for engine, 500 for install. Took it back to mechanic after install because old radiator had a crack in it same day of pick up. Figured he must have messed up and some sort of air pocket split the radiator (which was plastic). Got a new radiator for 50 dollars installed, all metal because mechanic said it was better. One day later I notice the idle is too low for OEM standards which is 700 (+-) 100rpm. It idled rough and I had multiple people tell me things ranging from cleaning the intake to a fuel pump gone bad. Take it back down to him under the impression that the idle timing belt was off. He redid it for free under warranty. Picked it up, it was running fine now, no problems... except the idle was too damn high; over the 1000 rpm mark, not even close to 700 (+-) 100rpm. I figure at least its running better than before. ~2-3 days later I have a check engine light come on, never happened ever before with the old engine so this is new to me. The day after, it goes away, I figure maybe some sort of sensor went off for a bit. Not sure, not a general car person. Same day now check engine light was on, I drove it on the highway at highway speeds 50-60mph. I got off the highway, had a low idle again, engine was rumbling the car and I was idling rough. The car had problems going into first gear, kept jumping the rpm's from 2000 to almost stall and hovered around 2500 when trying to get out of first gear. I had to accelerate to get it into second and going. Take it back down to mechanic, tells me that he couldn't recreate the problems that I had before after running highway speeds and that it was okay to pick it up. I had my doubts but I said fine and picked it up. ~2 days later my family is driving my car for their needs. They have the same problems I do, and we approximate that the distance traveled in the vehicle from home to past a good 100+ miles away was a source of the problem. They pull in the drive way and the radiator is smoking. We sit and wait for the radiator to cool down, pop off the cap and let it cool down more to fill up the thing. We notice that the overflow container is fill to over capacity full of radiator coolant. About 15-25 mins later it bubbles back down into the radiator and I figured it was an air pocket of some sort, not sure and as of now it still remains undetermined professionally. Another two days go by, another problem arises with the engine it may seem. The car did not over heat like it did before when my family drove it and brought it back home smoking, rather it's rpm's were at it again whilst the check engine light remained on. So far, as of right now during this post, the car is having a tough time starting up and after ward the rpm's do the same thing it did before except its almost gets to the point where it wants to shut off wherein I have to switch it into neutral and keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling or falling below the OEM idle. We were then TOLD and I repeat TOLD, not professionally checked, by that mechanic that he thinks the Fuel injection system on the car (which I believe is the 16 point one) needs to be cleaned out? I am looking for a definite opinion on this as I've listed the whole story behind the vehicles maintenance for a reason. I felt it necessary to give these details to those who need them as to add up the problems on the car and what may have caused them. Please do not think we are lazy or mistreat our vehicles, after all we buy our "new" cars used. We are not in anyway always financially capable to do vehicle repairs, and so far this was one of the largest of them all for us to do totaling around 1550 for buying, installing, and buying a new radiator. -
I'm buying a stock 1994 Impreza L 1.8 from someone I know, and I was wondering is it at all possible to put/install a turbo into the car? Does anyone or can anyone answer this. -
Unfortunately I have a knocking rod in my engine and need to get a new replacement engine. Don't know much about Subaru engines, but trying to find an engine to order online. Wondering if anyone could help me understand what I exactly need to get! It would be more than appreciated. My engine right now is the 2005 2.5L AT EJ25 SOHC and I believe it is the California Emissions model. What year engines will suffice and be able to fit? Also, do I have to worry about the California Emissions part when getting the new engine? Thanks! -
I was tuning up my 95 Legacy yesterday with cleaning/testing throttle body & Position Sensor, PCV, MAF, etc. Started looking for my EGR valve to take a whack at but could not find it. Checked the Chiltons manual & tells/shows where it "should" be also says that testing the EGR is done by OnBoardDiagnostics & I have OBDII so wouldnt it be somewhere Checked online for pictures and where the EGR Pipe should be is crimped off. What is the meaning of this? Im boggled. -
Recently bought a 93 Legacy wagon off Craigslist for my father to commute to work out of town. It runs good and is used to commute 250mi's a week (highway drive 125mi there & 125mi back). I check it out every weekend when he gets back. THE MAIN issue is it backfires thru intake at startup & the idle is high, only when engine is cold! After it warms up it runs better & idles fine. It had the Bosch 4 prong platinum spark plugs, runs better with copper NGK's, but still backfiring. I cleaned the PVC vavle, MAF sensor, IACV, & throttle body also. Had the exhaust checked out & they replaced 1 of the cats but not sure if they really checked EVERYTHING out. Previous owner had replaced the plugs/wires & air filter. I've researched this & came across a few possibilities but the car runs fine once warmed up. coolant temp sensor could be failing-dumping too much fuel at warm up. Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. Exhaust leak near the head or at the Y-pipe allowing air in & then closing when warmed up. Low or uneven compression. These are some of the problems that I read can cause a backfire but the car runs really nice once warmed up. Another issue is the speedo doesn't work. Check engine light is on for Vehicle Speed Sensor. And the POWER light for the trans blinks when you turn the key on. I figure that the tranny Control Unit senses the VSS & is why power light blinks. So does this mean the Tranny is in a "SAFE MODE" not performing at its best because the computer sensed a problem? It feels like it could have more acceleration & performance is what im getting at. Any helpful suggestions, comments, questions or information is highly appreciated! THANKS.
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Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU -
The EJ251 engine in my 2002 Forester weighs 119 kg (262 Lbs). I had trouble finding this info online, so I thought that I would post it here. I had taken the engine out to replace the clutch, and before resting the engine on the floor, I weighed it on my bathroom scales. Not exactly 100% scientific, but close enough. The weight is for a bare engine: - No oil; - No coolant; - No A/C pump; - No Alternator; - No Power-steering pump. But includes: - Flywheel and clutch; - Timing-belt, all idlers and covers; - Main drive-pulley; - Rocker-covers and spark-plugs in place; - Engine-mounts attached; - Intake & Exhaust manifolds attached.
