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Showing results for tags 'fan'.
Found 17 results
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A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time. -
Howdy all, recently my ventilation system started only blowing when the knob is turned to 4, so it's full blast or nothing these days. Anyone else seen this before? Browsing the forums I've seen some people run into this with the Legacy and they mention a wire or switch below/behind the dash, but I can't find anything similar on my GL
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Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.- 41 replies
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Anyone have any idea why my HVAC's blower motor will only operate on fan speed 3? I thought that if the blower motor's resistor pack failed, it would only work on fan speed 4...
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Hi, My son has a 2000 Subaru Legacy. The fan stopped working on his heather. He replaced the fan with a new one, but it still didn't work. We returned that, just in case it was bad, and got a second one. It didn't work either. We also checked all the fuses and they seem to be fine. With a power meter we confirmed that when you turn the fan switch up, power is getting through the wires to the plug that goes in the fan. Still doesn't work, though. Any ideas? Let me know if you need more information. I can't figure out what to try next. Thanks. Steve -
Hi Guys, I have a 1995 Subaru Liberty Heritage, 2.2l Auto, 190k on the clock. About 3 months ago I had a major 6year service on it - about a week later the engine light came on, took it back to the mechanic and they changed an ignition coil and the alternator. Recently I have been having an issue when I drive on the highway - the temp gauge appears to fluctuate - it will go up near max but just as quickly comes back down to normal temp again. A couple of days ago I came off the highway and was idling at a red light - the revs jumped from the normal 500 to over 1k for a couple of seconds. The temp gauge was showing at almost max (car did not appear to be overheating though and no issue with the coolant level). This has happened on a couple of occasions - always seems to be after I have driven on the highway (which I only do approx. once a month). Also a few days ago sitting at a red light the revs jumped up for a few seconds and engine light came on for about 30 seconds (engine light not on at the moment). Any ideas of what could be going on?? Would really appreciate it! :-) -
Hi. I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale 1.8L SPFI ea82n/a. The fan in the picture is always on. Is this correct? If you are standing in front of the car, the fan is located somewhat driver side of center. I believe it's a belt driven fan? Not sure. But if the car is on, the fan is always on. I'm wondering if this is correct and if it is not correct, what should I do to fix it? Thanks
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1989 GL SPFI Metal caps on radiator. (no plastic on radiator) Currently it is running Peak antifreeze, (blue container with mountains in the background) i just bought the best stuff, (well i think it is).. the thermostat was changed to a brand new beck n arnley a year ago and im pretty sure theres nothing "clogged" in the cooling system, i have flushed it twice, once in august 2014 and again in march of 2015. Today it got to 98 degrees F, and my tempeature needle was at 3/4 the way, it usually sits between 1/4 or lower when the tempeature is at or below 90F outside, but if it goes above 95F, it goes half or past half. 3/4 scares me (that was today) and tempeatures here during the summer go to 115F, i need a solution or when the tempeature goes above 100F, i will have to drive my Impreza and park my GL it has a mechanical belt driven fan (changed to a new one 3months ago, that was expensive) and 1 stock electric fan that i rigged to always run no matter what (both are working fine).. i noticed this overheating problem back in september but since it was becoming fall already, issue quickly went away once highs went below 95F. its interesting because if the tempeature is below 95, it just stays perfectly fine at 1/4 but if its like 97 or 98, it jumps like crazy to half or 3/4. Does anyone else have these problems when tempeatures go above 100F? any suggestions or brands of antifreeze? its getting toasty down here in Texas... -
It sounds like the fan for the vent and air conditioner is working at all four levels and the heater is definitely working. The problem is that I cannot feel any air coming through any of the central vents at any setting level. Is something disconnected? -
Ok so I have a 84 GL Wagon, standard tranny. I have read to use a 180 degree thermostat but wanted a second opinion. Also, the sensor that controls the electric fan -commonly called the thermo switch or fan switch- may need to be replaced and i was wondering if i could get a lower temp switch so the fan would turn on before the engine gets super hot. This way it can start cooling down before its so hot that it will take forever to cool. Opinions? thoughts?
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Solved for now at least. I read on this forum that one cause for a heater motor not working properly is debris gets into the squirrel cage. When I took the motor off and cleaned a few pine needles out of that area, the problem still existed when I put the motor back in. I found that if I lightly tapped the motor body it would start up, but it was making an intermittent ticking noise. After a few days of this, it started coming on more slowly when I tapped it, gradually coming up to speed. I decided to buy a new motor, but I had some questions about the right part, so I took the motor out of the car again to check some features of the OEM fan motor for comparison to the aftermarket parts. This time I also removed the motor body's silver bottom plate held on by two gold-colored screws (circled on photo). With the plate removed, about 2 tablespoons of copper dust, decomposed vegetation fluff, and spruce needles came out (21 years worth!) FYI, copper dust is toxic, so use proper personal protection. Since the motor brushes are at the bottom of the motor, the armature at the brushes was trying to churn through all this crud. When I put it back together it seemed to work normally again, but time will tell. Earlier posts have asked about how to remove the motor. Here are the steps... (If you just want to check for dirt in the motor itself, just do steps 1, 8, and 9.) 1. Remove glove box door by removing two phillips screws under the bottom edge of the door. 2. Remove the door's mounting plate by removing 4 phillips screws 3. Pull the plastic corrugated tube off the motor body 4. Loosen the hex head screws behind the two access doors shown in the photos. Loosening these a bit allows just enough flexing of the dash to work the fan from its housing. 5. Remove the 3 8mm hex screws holding the gold-colored base to the black motor housing 6. Lower the fan while pulling the loosened dash panel to the passenger side just enough to get the fan motor and squirrel cage out of the dash 7. Disconnect the wires' connector plug at the base of the motor or at the other end Clean debris from the fan housing, and then 8. Remove the two gold covered screws from the silver base blate on the motor, and find where two soft plastic flaps (look like electrical tape) cover the spots where you can insert a flat screwdriver to pry the base plate off. 9. Tap the motor body, and the debris will fall out of the bottom of the motor. The photo shows how much came out on half of a paper towel!
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Hey there fellow subaru lovers. ive recently started a fan page on facebook for Old Gen subarus. (it says NW but honestly we love em all!) im not really trying to post to get more likes as much as i am looking for great Old gen subaru pictures. I see amazing ones day in and day out on here and i want to use them all but i would also like to give credit to those who have made it great. i ve added a few that i absolutely couldnt help myself but id like to get more! anyone who would like to have their old gen subarus plastered on the internet with us all drooling over it either add them on this thread. send them to my email ( elliottdevon@ymail.com ) And Or go and put it on the page and like the page. https://www.facebook.com/nwoldgensubarus ALSO we have been trying to get together a meet for Old Gens in the nw most likely in the oregon area. we have a separate thread on here if you are interested. but we will likely be adding it as an event on the facebook. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142570-like-to-get-an-old-gen-meet-going-in-the-oregon-area/ Thanks all! hope to hear from you soon!
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The blower for the heater/AC on my son's 2008 Impreza WRX (non-STI) stopped working. No fan or air movement at any setting. It's the automatic climate control version. I checked all related fuses in driver side interior fuse block. They're good. He says the fan surged a couple of times during use so he turned it off. The next time he turned it on, nothing. Where should I look next? Thanks. Tom -
Hello my fellow Scoobthusiasts. I post today in regards to... inconsistent dashboard venting/heating/defrosting etc. I had nearly forgotten all about this... Until the NW experienced (as some of you know) decent lighting/thunda/heavy rain. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. More often not. Venting that is. When it "doesn't," there's simply no air coming through the vents. Zip, zilch, nada. It vents when it wants to. The rig - '87 GL Wagon ft. '93 Impreza motor. My question - Where do I even start to look, to diagnose this inconvenience/every-now-and-then-potential-danger. (Foggy rush-hour-drive home ain't no good) Thanks in advance for the information regarding this... perhaps in-depth topic. -BR
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Ever wonder what the plaque that says "this vehicle equipped for the installation of optional A/C" means? Driving yourself crazy looking for why your fan has no power and can't find the relay? Well here's part of it. First off, unless you have "Subaru" A/C.....you don't have a relay. Later EA81 Blower circuits are setup with a connector, that provides for the Non-a/c fan circuit, to be bypassed......and run through a new relay.......bringing power for the blower fan through a single 20 amp glass fuse taped up in the harness. I believe this leaves the original blower circuit extra electrical capacity to power the compresor clutch, fan relays and pressure switches,etc.... Here is a pic of the jumper that is in the setup from the factory on non-a/c cars. This connector is up under the dash, right below the column, coming out of the big bundle on it's own 20" or so pigtail. The glass fuse is wrapped up just a bit closer to the fuse box. And Here is what the circuit looks like after Dealer installed Genuine subaru A/C setups And here's the thread that made me tear apart 2 dashes trying to find this sucker cause it was driving me nuts.......Never had to look for an EA81 blower relay before http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140151-brat-blower-motor-relayproblem-solved/
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Where could I Find a Cooler temp Thermoswitch for my EA82 BumbleBeast? The Stock EA82 one is designed to start the electric Fan at 203º F while the EA82 Turbo one is Designed to Kick on at 200º F. I am Looking for something even Cooler to swap there, Because I am Removing the Fixed Pulley Driven Fan and installing another Electric fan instead, as you can read ~► Here. So, does anybody know of a Cooler thermoswitch and its part Number or Make/model of the car? Kind Regards.
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Hi all! Recently my BumbleBeast developed a Weird noise, a Rattle Sound that was only noticeable at idle; So I checked it and I originally thought that it had Worn A/C Compressor's Ball Bearings... (as you can read ~► Here ) ...but the A/C kept working fine. So, I was about to install my Brand New SJR Lift kit for the front only... (as you can see ~► Here ) ...and I decided to Remove the Weberized EA82 engine from my BumbleBeast to check it carefully and make the lift install easier, also, I got Rid of the Timing Belts' Covers at all... (as you can Read ~► Here ) ...Because I thought that the Weird Noise source could be a Worn Timing Belt Tensioner's Ball Bearing. Then with the Engine out, I Discovered that the Source of the Weird noise was the Main Fan, the one attached to the Water Pump's Pulley, also known as "Mechanical" fan; so my BumbleBeast's A/C compressor is fine. A Little bit of Background History: The Fan clutch it had, failed around year 1993, so I decided to Fix the Fan by Drillin' a 1/4" Hole thru the Fan clutch and insert a 1/4" Twisted wire into that hole and Welded the wire to the Fan's Base. It worked good since then... but now, several years later; the Hole I Drilled on the Fan Clutch's area, became Wider and the Welded wire is Loose, also the Fan is Loose, so that thing is Ruined... I Need to obtain a New Fan for that, I'll Like to Keep the original fan setup, but here comes the Question: is there any Fan that fits the Pulley on my EA82 that comes without Fan Clutch? I Really need one, ASAP... Kind Regards.
