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Vehicles

  1. hey guys, I just bought a new loyale. I cant get it to start. the fuel pump is only getting 1.00 at the fuel pump when cranking, and nothing at on. Would this problem be in the ignition switch? thanks
  2. My 1993 California Loyale passed smog for every test except it was 3pts high on the low-speed hc test. I have an SPFI, 5speed, with 180k miles on the car. I noticed the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has zero vacuum at idle and when I rev the engine! I blew some air into the passage and it only exits from a port ABOVE the throttle plate! According to theory, it's supposed to get manifold vacuum below the throttle plate so it can actuate at idle to reduce fuel. So why is it ported to above the throttle plate at atmospheric? What's funny is I don't have any idling or other problems associated with a faulty fuel regulator, yet it appears it's not doing anything. The shop manual shows the SPFI engine has the port above the throttle plate too. However, it's below the throttle plate for the MPFI engine! Anybody have an explanation for such a strange setup? Is the regulator in the SPFI just a 'fuelish' invention in this case?
  3. i've recently acquired an 87 RX turbo and it wasnt in running condition. had to get replacement MAF sensor and fuel pump and filter as soon as i tried to get it started i could tell it was trying to fire then all i could smell was varnished gas.. so its been sitting for a while if i pour good gas into throttle body it will fire up for a second, but now that i have good gas in the tank and lines with new filter it doesnt seem to get any gas to the injectors. somewhere between filter and injectors??
  4. Hi! I own a well-loved 2003 Legacy Wagon. In the last year, it has started having issues with the engine missing, especially at lower altitudes (I live at 7,000'), but it's now just bad all the time. It putts and bucks and sometimes dies at idel at an intersection. My mechanic is stumped and so am I. Also frustrated. Any ideas? Lorilee
  5. Hello , so I've been only getting like 20 mpg if I drive really nice (less if I'm driving normal) in my 1986 4wd GL Weberized wagon. I've done the usual tune up stuff (plugs , cap , rotor , wires, fuel filter , cleaned air filter) The weber is running the recommended tuning I got from loyale27turbo's guide. I figured we were both at similar elevations so it seemed close enough. I've also recently replaced the (roaring) bad front wheel bearings it had , with some sweet sealed ones. I run normal sized tires at right below their max psi. Everything has fresh oil. All the front cv joints have been regreased and booted in the last 2 months. I've also replaced the timing belts (they're spot on) and changed the oil pump gasket. (not that it helped the ticking at idle , I think those cam tower o rings are bad) Ignition timing is set at like 16 degrees btdc. Battery voltage reads in the 14's with the car running Anyhow here's the actual issue , so someone gave me the idea to check the voltage at my coil. It's only 12.7v with the engine running around 1200 rpm and goes progressively down with more rpm. It also heads down with whatever accessories I turn on (heater fan , headlights , turn signal , etc) to a low of 12 volts at 2000 rpm. I bet it even heads lower with an actual load on the engine and not just revving in place. Also I dunno if this is related but my voltmeter jumps with the turn signal. Any ideas? I mean I thought about doing a relay set up to get full voltage to the coil (using the same logic as the headlight relay set up. Bypassing all the various connectors and ignition switch that add resistance and rob voltage)
  6. I recently bought a 96 legacy sedan with a 2.2L auto. when I bought it, cylinder 4 was cracked. so I got a used short block and pieced a new motor together a few weeks ago. upon installation I replaced plugs, wires, fuel filter, p.c.v, timing belt etc. it ran great till last Friday. I went out to go to work and it wouldn't start. I pulled the hose off the fuel filter to make sure it was getting fuel, and nothing. so I put a new fuel pump in it, still nothing. after playing around under the dash trying to locate the fuel pump relay, it started. the old relay was so hot that it almost burned my hand. so I put a new relay in and it ran great again. today I pulled into the gas station for a second (didn't get fuel) came back out and wouldn't start. finally got it to fire and was running rough. so I hooked my computer to it and found cylinder 1 and 2 are misfiring. if I attempted to give it gas, it would only make it worse and then die again. now I cant even get it to start. any ideas? maybe something small that I am missing here but any help would be appreciated. thanks Adam
  7. So my loyale quite on me this morning. I was cruising down the highway and it sputtered a couple times and then cut out. It cranks over just fine but wont start. The exhaust pops and sputters when cranked. I had limited tools on hand but did pull the fuel filter and blew thru it and it was clear. So I had it towed home. What should be the first things to check for in order? I dont have a helper availible right now so I have to troubleshoot myself. I was going to check the fuel system first. And my first thought is to just pull the hose off the TBI and stick it in a coffee can and crank it over to see if I get fuel, I know thats not the safest way but its old school and seams easier to me than running around with my meter. Plus I cannot listen under the car to hear the pump without someone turning the key for me. When she quite on me I heard the exhaust pop and sputter before I felt the motor jerk. I wonder if the exhaust system/muffler became plugged all the sudden. Not sure how I would go about testing that very easily? Other than pulling the rusted/seized connections apart after the cat. And as far as timing. If one of the timing belts failed, (probably not too likely since I replaced them 25K ago) would I still get spark? Or how would I go about checking if the timing belts were good without pulling the shrouds? Also how to check to make sure one side did not skipp?
  8. I know it's been asked before, and I've read the responses, but I'm still at a loss. My 83 Brat has an intermittent problem of stumbling upon acceleration. It occurs whether the car is warm or cold. It seems to stumble only with slow acceleration and if I step on it, it surges and opens up, feels smooth. Doesn't seem to lack power overall and idles decently enough once it's warmed up. Stock Hitachi carb. So far, in attempt to fix this issue and just because it needed it, I have replaced both fuel filters, air filter, spark plug wires, spark plugs(with new NGK, properly gapped), new distributor, put a bunch of heet and seafoam through it to clean out any gunk or water and checked for vacuum leaks by spraying starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses (no change in idle speed noted). I also only run 89 octane or higher fuel. Im thinking it could be a partially clogged jet in the carb. Maybe some other jet opens up with more throttle and thats why it only occurs at low throttle. I haven't opened up a hitachi, but I would be willing to rebuild it if that would help. And no, I'm not getting a Weber. I've gotten 31 mpg with the Hitachi properly tuned. Any advice would be appreciated. Let me know if more info is needed. Thanks yall.
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