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Showing results for tags 'gl'.
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I have a Subaru loyale the last wiring to the ignition coil it’s all weird looking there and extra plug if anyone can help thank you so much. and if any one has any pictures of there ignition coil wiring that would be great -
The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
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Parting out a 1982 GL station wagon. No engine or transmission. Interior is POS. 93,000 miles. Auto will be crushed March 25th 2018, in Oklahoma. Email with serious offer on parts. Mike Kiester
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Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
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Can the rear alignment on a 2nd generation 4wd Subaru be adjusted by mere mortals? -
Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
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Hi All and Happy Summer! I just lost an auction on eBay for the chromed, snap on center strip for the Brat GL 1983 front bumper. This is a bull-nosed chrome strip that mounts onto the front bumper with snaps, above the license plate in the center of the bumper. I'm willing to pay up to $100 including shipping to 10301 for a really clean strip in great condition. Thanks! -
My Loyale was stolen last night. Just I ncase anyone in the SF Bay Area spots this one on the road. it was stolen 5/15 please contact me Luke - 808 seven 56 five 705
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Hi Hoping for some help from knowledgable eyes. I have a Subaru GL 87 1.8 Carb. **I recently replaced the overcharging alternator (bad regulator). After timing belt procedure it decided to quit. Overview of this engine- 1. Here is the biggest problem, rear of motor and of alternator area: This hose (below) is broken the engine shakes a little more after, and when i cover the hole it calms down. I found the possible piece ( top) Not sure where else it was connected to? 2. I also found this guy hanging around, looks like it should be bolted down, but what is this? 3. Plugs behind Alternator not connected, what are they for? 4. disconnected plug Under Hood Driver Side Top, Where does it plug? what is it? the black broken tube (arrow) a problem? 5. On Passender Side Top disconnected and unknown plugs, what are these? Thanks for any help -
On my my way home from Mexico I found this guy on the side of the road... So i drove it back it back to Canada! let the fun begin. the good: almost everthing is there, jump sets and everything. No real body damage and no bad body rust from what I can tell. runs! Shifts pretty good(4spd) the bad: Torn cv’s lots of caked oil, Mexican wiring oil sender dosnt work driver side strut top is completely torn(found this once I got it home) leakying front main seal bad rad fan Truck bed leaks into cabin(when it rains) Plan: since I’ve been building my crazy off road poptop gl wagon, I thought it’d make this more of a daily driver. bushings upgrades 2 inch lift 215/75/15 Baja bfg on yota drilled 6 lug. camber/caster plates longer ish dual rate suspension Electric swap?!?!
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Hello! I own a 88 gl wagon. I use it for wheeling. What is the simplest way to lift it? I would like 4". Would prefer a way that I don't have to deal with steering linkage...if at all possible! Be kind I'm new lol. Ty!!
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I plan to run some wiring for a dash cam. I would like to run it under the headliner of my 1984 GL wagon. Any advice or instructions on how to remove the headliner? It seems to be styrofoam, with a thin vinyl color layer. Is it glued in place? mkoch
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22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?
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I have a bent valve in an 85 Brat A/T. I want to replace it but I can't find any place that specifically has the Large valve. Rock Auto says it has it but i looked and the 82 Brat in their catalog uses the same valve part number. And correct me if I'm wrong but pre 84 had smaller valves... I just don't want to buy it pull the head and find out its the wrong one.
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Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344 -
Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts. Repair, or replace?
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I have a 1987 GL Coupe that I just picked up. It is running 'ok', some hesitation and a little surging. Did a basic tune up and oil and coolant (the shop had put in two quarts of oil too much and I drained it, some had dripped on the cat I think from the rear seal but stopped). Been driving it for about 2 weeks to work it out and yesterday I checked the coolant and it was down a quart and the reservoir was empty. I had put a can of conditioner in it after the change so I just filled it up and have taken about 4 trips around town to work and back and I'm getting a coolant smell every once in a while and just a wisp of steam from under the carb between the spare and the air cleaner. There as a tiny pool pf coolant on top of the block, maybe 1 tablespoon. It has a 1.8 OHC with 100k on it and otherwise seems ok. What should I be checking? Where might this be coming from? I've not seen this before in any of my EA-82's. Any help is appreciated.
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I may or may not have been drifting around in some snow when I hit a curb inevitably screwing the control arm and leading rod. Ofcourse with my luck 89' GL control arms are a discontinued part. If anyone has a parts GL or any car that has a control arm compatible with mine and is willing to sell it to me I'd be immensely grateful.
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Hi there, we are working on getting an 81 GL road worthy and I found a 79 GL that could be used as a donor, but wondering about differences in interior and body. Are these 2 compatible? -
So I have an 88 GL wagon with 5spd and Hi/low. I have a chance to buy a 1991 or so Loyale 4wd auto car, which I want as a supply of donor parts. Would the hubs be the same? I'm pretty sure axles aren't, but that's ok. Has enough body and other parts on it that I'm thinking it's a buy. Just didn't know about hubs (yeah I changed one on mine and am suspicious I'll need another, not sure. Eric
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After searching for almost a year, my fiance and I got this car in the spring of 2016 for her to use as a commuter during bad snow days. Shortly after purchasing it, we took it to a local mechanic to have it inspected and to address any glaring issues. We ended up putting in new wheel bearings, suspension, flywheel, clutch, axle shaft assembly, and several other things. Before the mechanic was done working on the car, it was stolen off of his lot (left unlocked with keys in the ignition). The kid who stole it couldn't drive a stick and blew the engine about a mile up the road. Other than the blown engine, no other apparent damage was done. They ended up catching the kid who stole it and he was ordered to reimburse the mechanic for the damages. The prosecutor told me the mechanic was responsible for replacing the blown motor. Fast forward more than a year - we just got the car back. The mechanic really dragged his feet finishing the job and gave me a sob story of how he spent $7,000 of his own money fixing the car. Also, when I picked the car up, he sent up some red flags that he may not have fully completed the swap. He said that it didn't have as much power as he thought it would, but "we all know how these old Subaru's are". I took the car for a test drive up the highway and noticed that the car was really lacking power and the turbo light only came on once and only for a second or two. After a brief visual inspection (I'm not the best mechanic), I was able to identify several problems. I have a Chilton coming in the mail and I downloaded the 1989 EA-82 FSM. I have also spent some time searching through the 1987-1996 repair instructions. I am having trouble identifying a couple of hoses and a connector. Any help identifying where these things go would be a huge help. Thanks in advance! There are two loose hoses that I think have to do with the turbo. I cannot figure out where they go. There is an electrical connector that is disconnected. What I think is the "waste gate valve controller" is not connected. The vehicle is leaking what looks like coolant. The front skid plate is missing!
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I am looking to purchase an 82 Brat. Here is the issue it has: the front wheels do not engage. The car therefore cannot be driven in normal AWD, but the back wheels will engage when locked into 4WD. The owner says that he thinks it is something with the axle being worn out and not fitting into the hub, and purchased an axle to replace the worn one, but never got around to doing so. My concern is that the axle is not the problem. One source told me that I should assume it will need a new transmission. Looking around, I thought that it could also maybe be the front diff, or the transfer case. Any feedback would be great before I pull the trigger. Thanks!
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I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for my 89' GL so I can install the radio myself instead of paying a 50$ fee just to get it put in. I'm simultaneously trying to learn more about my car as it is my first car and I wanna be able to work on it myself rather than relying on body shops, mechanics, etc. etc.. If anyone could help me out it'd be much appreciated since I'm basically a new born in terms of being in the car scene.
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I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
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I have an 85 Brat that I just put a new weber carb on. Problem is when I got the carb mounted up and started it the car immediately went to 5K RPMs and sat there. I checked the throttle wheel and it was ok. I even started the car with the throttle wheel assembly completely unattached from the carb, but it still idles at 5K RPMs. I know I must be missing something. My guess is a vacuum hose. So far all I have hooked up to the new carb is the fuel line and the vacuum hose to the distributor. My questions are what else do I need hooked up to the carb? And if I do need something else where is it and where do I plug it up. I'm new at this so any pictures, diagrams or whatever would be much appreciated. I can add some pictures tomorrow of the car tomorrow afternoon if anybody thinks it'll help. Thanks!
