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  1. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01049330.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Struts+KYB+W0133-1615015+Front+82-87+Subaru+Strut+Assembly+1985+1983&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COzk5eWCxbwCFUiGfgod-xcA-w Will these work on my 82' 4WD Gl wagon? And has anybody done this? how much lower are they than the 4WD struts? and can i use the stock 4WD springs? thanks guys!
  2. so, as my topic says, im going to be modding my brat into a little rally beast. Im already looking for needed replacement parts such as hood, fenders, grill, rear bumper, etc. mostly cosmetic. but im still planning out the major modifications. One of the first things on the long list of modifications and repairs needed is an engine (well..actually an entire drive system, but engine being the focal point) for the much needed increase in power. im thinking the system from a late 90's impreza; ej25 motor, manual transmission, awd. actually, let me take a step back and just lay out the basic overall idea for the project. basically i want an every day driver that i can also go play in the sand with . cosmetically i want it to look like a factory soup up. very simple black body with white accents. mechanics is a who different story. im going to be building it for aggressive offroad use, so a small lift and slightly larger tires is in order. and an engine with much greater power; more specifically torque. any ideas on what engine or what vehicle to steal the drive system from? or any other ideas or tips? i will post pictures shortly, but considering im not in the same state as my brat at the moment, i only have pictures from earlier this year
  3. Ok so I know I could have avoided this by running coolant. So really i just let the cold kill my car.. But my radiator has had a mean leak so I've been topping it off with water almost daily. It's a ea81 82' GL. Below freezing temps hit and froze all the water. Yesterday it happened aswell I started it up and the belt was squeeling on the water pump pulley so I shut it off then topped off the radiator with warm water and let it sit for a minute. I turned the pulley by hand to make sure it was not frozen and started it up. Warmed up fine and drive me to work and back. Today I start it up and same thing, all frozen. I let it run for about 30 seconds with the belt slipping on the frozen water pump pulley. Shut it off and added some warm water to melt the ice. It took a LOT of water this time. All the ice seemed to be melted. Turned it over again and it ran very rough the while motor was vibrating like it never has. I shut it off for a minute and turned it over again to have it start very rough and make one or two terrible knocking/clanking noises then die. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all like its seized/locked up. I pop the hood to find oil/water mixture oozing out of the intake!?? Into the air cleaner box. The water in the radiator had oil mixed in aswell. I know this is bad but my question to you is what's my damage?? I'm fairly new to cars so please bare with me. Thanks in advance !
  4. Could anyone guess an estimated worth of my 85 GL AT/FWD Sedan? 80k Original Miles (My grandma's car since new). Brake pads @ 20% Runs Solid 2 Studded snow tires go with it. Looking to sell soon (Seattle) but need estimated value. Figured this might be the best place to find out.
  5. so i have an 86 ea82 gl wagon that i want to lift about 2 or 3 inches (for now) because my buddy just gave me his old toyo alloy wheels and tires and i want to cram them under my 4x4. ANYWAY, how bad for my car is a hockey puck lift, i've heard that they fail if you don't do it carefully but i feel like that is the case with any lift. thanks for your time.
  6. Okay so its not literally purple lightning but thats what it looks like. My coil is arcing between the posts with purple "lightning". Ive never seen this before nor do I know how to diagnose this.... any ideas as to whats wrong? Is the coil itself bad or is it something I can fix? i.e. is it not grounded properly etc.... thanks for the input! I just wanna get my 81 sedan back in tip top condition so i can get it to the show this coming year.
  7. all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU!
  8. So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer
  9. I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!
  10. Basically I'm wondering what radiators will work in my 82 gl wagon. With ea81. The junkyard has an 85 , 87 and an 88. Do these have the same radiator? Is there any parts from these cars that are the same from 82? Rear bumper possibly? What about turning lights and brake lights ? If any parts would swap right over with bolt in ease?
  11. Got a 82 GL 4x4 wagon about a month ago. Im really stoked on it its a good runner for the most part. the CV axel went out on it and i had it replaced. Im looking for a new radiator because mine is cracked so i have to keep topping it off. im also looking for some external body parts; rear bumper, front mud flap. maybe a whole new front grill assembly. If anybody is around snohomish county area and has alot of experience with the old gens i would like to meet up and have someone take a look at this wagon and point me in the right direction of what i should do next on this thing. and maybe go rally around (; cheers and thankyou!
  12. Do they make a KYB gas adjust shock for my 1982 gl 4x4 wagon? I can't seem to find them searching in google. Does anybody know the part number if they are out there? I'm planning in running the KYB excel g/gr2 in the front and i want to run the gas adjusts in the rear. And any suggestions on where to order from? Thanks!
  13. Hello, I'm finnaly buying a car after being carless for years and I'm looking for advise on what to get, what to considerater, and what mods to look in to. I've been doing some research, mostly in these forums, and I'm thinking a 88 or 89 GL or Gl-10 wagon might be for me. This car will be a daily driver but also used for weekend and week long trips to the desert in eastern oregon and Idaho. I don't plan on any hardcore off-roading but I'd like to be able to go out into the country without worry. Specific questions are 88/89 GL a good choice or should I think about a newer Loyale? GL or GL-10? Largest wheel/tire size unlifted or go for a slight lift? Are the turbos reliable and worth it? Bare bones or all the options (are the options prone to breaking)? I'm sure there are plenty other considerations I should make that I don't know about. I'm very excited to become a Subaru owner as I've wanted one for years. Thanks for any advise!
  14. I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers?
  15. Hey everyone, I am starting to prepare for rallycross. I own a 1990 5spd Loyale with an EA82. Car is stock except for Spectre cone filter, fitted to a MAF adapter(3"). Also, the drivers seat is a stock bucket seat from a Nissan 240sx, with rail adapters I made here at home. I also have mudflaps which are custom made. SO, I have a few things to do before I believe this car is ready to go sling mud around. Before anyone says anything, I am aware that this car isn't a "race-ready" vehicle, nor is it really typical for any sort of motorsport event. From what I've read about rallycross, it's about having fun and getting the car out there, not being fast and competitive. Thats what i'm looking for. I don't want to destroy the car, I want to go have fun. I have no problem driving conservatively on the track, and i'm confident that my car will do fine. I'm not out to build some badass screaming turbo race car.. I want to take a virtually stock car and improve my abilities, along with getting a feel for basic motorsports. I would assume everyone on here sees what I mean, but still, I feel like I have to say something. Alright, here is what i have in mind that should get me ready to go play. CAR -Battery tie down(i have none) -set of good tires -relocate AWD button to dash and get aftermarket shift knob -put on skidplate -fire extinguisher -straight pipe with cat ITEMS TO BUY -approved helmet -gloves -SCCA membership -gas can -tarp -jumper cables Questions: 1) Will my aftermarket seat be a problem for the inspection? Custom made adapters had to be made to make the seat fit in my car. It's sturdy, and not anything completely ridiculous. The seatbelt works and is positioned correctly. Other than what I have said, does anyone have any advice or recommendations for me? I would really appreciate it. I'm new to this, obviously. I'm a huge rally fan, and I live in the Pacific Northwest. I'll be participating in Sports Car Club of America events. I'll upload pictures of progress. Thank you guys!
  16. I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go?
  17. Hey everyone, I'm new here. I decided to join because I am looking into getting a 88 GL Wagon from a man my dad works with. It's the 1.8 (TBI?) coupled to a 5 speed with dual range 4wd, AC, power windows and locks, and silver in color. I might be trading a snowmobile for it otherwise I more than likely will be selling my current car (94 Saturn SL1) and then buying the GL. Anyways, the man who owns it has put a lot of new things into it over the past few years main things being the clutch and motor itself. It has some bubbling paint around where the windshield meets the bodywork. There's also some rust around the rear wheel wells and behind the rear wheels, however the underside of the car looks pretty clean still. I took it for a test drive and it seems to drive okay, it fired right up and was smooth but the clutch pedal had little feel to it and was mushy. Everything else seems clean and functioning. The only things that need work mechanically (to my knowledge) is one side needs new wheel bearings and there is a fuel pressure regulator or something on the gas tank that leaks. With this information that I have provided what is your opinions on it? Is there any red flags or anything that I should be aware of when hopefully purchasing it? Thanks guys!
  18. Ok so I recently put a five speed d/r into my Brat. Had a few problems with not going into reverse before, put the shims in the bolts and fixed that problem, but now its doing the same thing as before. Except this time it only when my transmission is cold. I live in Colorado and we've been having some cold nights and It like reverse doesn't exist, but the second I drive for a few minutes and warm it up its perfectly fine. Only does it when its colder than about ten degrees. Anyone have any ideas how I could fix this? Possibly an idea for a "cozy" or some sort of way to keep it warm at night.
  19. Hi All, This is Andrew here again. I am still trying to tackle this bogging out issue. My Brat runs really well when its not warmed up, but once it is warm it losses power when moving from a stopped position. I have completely rebuilt the carb and at this point I am pretty much done dealing with it. Its the stock carb and I am thinking its time to replace it with one of those webber carbs. Does anyone have a link to the carb that will work with my 1985 Brat 1.8L? As always, thanks in advance for your support and help. Cheers, Andrew
  20. Hello, First time posting. I have looked around quite extensively but have not been able to pinpoint a similar topic. I have a 1985 GL wagon that runs great. Everything was working great until two days ago. I had not driven it for a week and a half because I was out of town. The temperature hear in Colorado was below 20 and as low as -10 for most of this time. Now once it gets warmed up to operating temp the heater does not work. The hoses going into the heater core are not particularly warm and when I squeeze them there doesn't seem to be anything in them. It will also start to over heat but then go back to normal temp occasionally. I checked coolant level and filled to maximum. Has anyone else experienced this or have any insight? I plan on getting a block heater soon but have a feeling that won't change much except for ease of starting. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Noah.
  21. Hey there fellow subaru lovers. ive recently started a fan page on facebook for Old Gen subarus. (it says NW but honestly we love em all!) im not really trying to post to get more likes as much as i am looking for great Old gen subaru pictures. I see amazing ones day in and day out on here and i want to use them all but i would also like to give credit to those who have made it great. i ve added a few that i absolutely couldnt help myself but id like to get more! anyone who would like to have their old gen subarus plastered on the internet with us all drooling over it either add them on this thread. send them to my email ( elliottdevon@ymail.com ) And Or go and put it on the page and like the page. https://www.facebook.com/nwoldgensubarus ALSO we have been trying to get together a meet for Old Gens in the nw most likely in the oregon area. we have a separate thread on here if you are interested. but we will likely be adding it as an event on the facebook. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142570-like-to-get-an-old-gen-meet-going-in-the-oregon-area/ Thanks all! hope to hear from you soon!
  22. Hello everyone, Nice website you've got here, I finally had to stop lurking and make an account because she stopped running and it was time to ask for help, so here goes: I've got an 86 subaru GL, 300,000+ miles, rebuilt ea82, she's been running really well lately but the other day I started her up on the first try, as usual, just jumped right to life. I drove about 10 feet and stopped at a stop sign and the engine died. Wouldn't start but still turn over. Checked the fuel pump fuse and it was blown, so I replaced it and she started right up again. I drove about 4 blocks and it died again, wouldn't start. Fuel pump fuse was blown again. Replaced the fuse, started up, and died immediately. Fuse was blown again. Subsequently replaced and blew 3 more fuses, without the car running for more than a second, and was then all out of spares and had to get a tow back home. I've been hearing it could be that the fuel pump relay has gone out. My plan was to replace the relay this afternoon and see if that does it, but I could use some information in regards to the location of the fuel pump, or if anyone else has any ideas or solutions it'd be great to her em. Thanks!
  23. After over a year of living without a car in Los Angeles, I finally decided it was time to take the plunge. I still plan on bike-commuting as much as possible, but it will be nice to have a car for getting a bit further afield. I've always had a soft spot for Subarus, and after some ambling around on Craigslist, wound up with an oldie but goody: a 1984 GL hatchback. I wasn't particularly looking for a "classic," but this car was just in too-impeccable condition to pass up. It's only had two owners, and the second has only owned it for the past year. And only 137k miles! I took it to a very good local mechanic for an inspection and they were blown away by how good it's condition is. Despite all that, I admit I'm having a bit of buyer's-anxiety - I'm not terribly mechanically-inclined, and this is my only vehicle. She's definitely a beauty, though!
  24. So i just bought a new gl wagon because i was given a price i could not refuse for a car that was worth double if not triple what i paid. The only issue i have with it is that it does not have 4wd which is a total bummer. Is there any way to convert this beast of a car to 4wd? im planning on lifting it already so the clearance shouldn't be an issue but please correct me if i'm wrong
  25. i just changed out my vacuum rail and all of my hoses connecting but now my GL turns over and then makes this weird backwards turn over sound and then spits either smoke or gasoline out of the carb
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