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I have a 78 Subaru brat which I'm trying to make a full race truck out of I ideally want to have a awe set up pushing 200-400bhp to the wheels I want to put a sit but I believe it is to wide please help any suggestions are welcome as long as it's not fwd
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Hey Guys! I'm a huge fan of the Dakar African race! Up until yesterday I wasn't even aware of another race going through there. I'm not sure how I missed it, but in 2013 the biggest Amateur race in Africa, similar to Dakar, Bamako runs every two years. Well an 198x Subaru GL EA82 Touring Wagon won the 2013 event! I hear them speaking French in the video: Here is the description: youtube.com : BAMAKO2013 Czech SUBARU OffROAD Team 10 MIN clip Published on Feb 23, 2013 Vítězná cesta našeho týmu závodem Budapest - Bamako 2013. Díky všem co jste nám fandili! ;-) Translated: The winning tour of our team at the Budapest - Bamako 2013 event. Thanks to all you fancied us! ;-) I made a couple of 3-monitor wallpaper to remind me what my car could be. Download them both and let me know which one you like better in the reply: 1. the Three Car or 2. The collage Note: I have three monitors that are spanned together. My Windows Start Button is on the bottom right corner of all three monitors. Each screen resolution is 1680 pixels x 1050 pixels. So to make a single picture that spans across all three I simple multiply the length times three. 5040 x 1050 as a single file. Note: If you only have one monitor with this picture set as wallpaper - Tiled, you will only see the left most part third the photo. Let me say it was quite tricky to get it under the 2MB size limit and still look decent. And it turns out I don't have enough bandwidth on this server to continue to add files. Sorry team. Here are some more links for the curious: http://www.subarudobrany.cz/bamako2013.html http://www.subarudobrany.cz/ir_14/projekt_ir14.pdf http://www.budapestbamako.org/en
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Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help! -
So about 8 months ago i crashed and totaled my previous car. after searching through Craigslist i stumbled upon my Subaru GL. She runs great i have some minor work that i need to do. the front windshield is cracked and iv noticed lots of older subarus have the same kind of crack that goes horizontal across the windshield. Anyway just because i decided to type in the car into craigslist and a couple other sites to check its value and see people listing and the worth to be somewhere between 2000-3000. And that is for worn down/ used. Maybe i am naive but to me thats ridiculously high. i have talked to a couple guys at shucks and they said its good because your able to do lots of swaps for the engine ect. I would just like some more info. I paid 500$ dollars for the thing and i do love it. (very reliable, Good gas mileage but i am still surprised. Will anyone please enlighten me on the subject?
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So about 8 months ago i crashed and totaled my previous car. after searching through Craigslist i stumbled upon my Subaru GL. She runs great i have some minor work that i need to do. the front windshield is cracked and iv noticed lots of older subarus have the same kind of crack that goes horizontal across the windshield. Anyway just because i decided to type in the car into craigslist and a couple other sites to check its value and see people listing and the worth to be somewhere between 2000-3000. And that is for worn down/ used. Maybe i am naive but to me thats ridiculously high. i have talked to a couple guys at shucks and they said its good because your able to do lots of swaps for the engine ect. I would just like some more info. I paid 500$ dollars for the thing and i do love it. (very reliable, Good gas mileage but i am still surprised. Will anyone please enlighten me on the subject?
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I just replaced timing belts and did my water pump too. I put water pump rtv on both sides of thegasket. Got the bolts snug till it ooZed the waited an hour then snugged them down. I took just a scraper to clean the old stuff off. I started the car up and i noticed it leaking. This had been days after I installed the new water pump before I started the car. Should I take the water pump off and get a new seal? The seal that came with the pump looks really thin and cheap too I noticed. Any advice??
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Hi there Subaru lovers of all kind lol. I have had my Subaru since I was about 2 years of age. It has stayed in the family for years. I would like to put an sjr lift in it but I know you have to do some fabrications and such. I was wondering if there was a professional shop that could install the kit properly or anyone that would like to do it on the side. I would like to see past work of course. This car is very sentimental to me. It's an 1989 GL with the high low gear box. I'm currently putting my rebuilt ea motor in it as we speak. If anyone can help me out I've been searching for a long time. My dad also has one that needs to be fixed. I think he has the 4 inch lift in it now.
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I'm having difficulty finding a replacement driver door window regulator for my 84 gl. Does anyone have a good source/one I can buy? Part number: 762110050 Thank you in advance, -James
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I'm having difficulty finding a replacement driver door window regulator for my 84 gl. Does anyone have a good source/one I can buy? Part number: 762110050 Thank you in advance, -James
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Hello, i have a non lifted Subaru Leone/GL Superstation Turbo (4x disk brake) and I wanna mount bigger wheels and rims. I plan to redrill the hubs for 5 or 6 lug and I can do the work with a CNC milling machine, so it should not be a problem. Can you tell me the options for steel rims (14inch or 15inch X 7) with 45mm or 55mm offset that look similar to the original white Subaru steel rims or the scorpion 14 inch rims ? My favorit wheel size would be something like 195/70/R14 or 195/60/R15 I spent a lot of time on online research and searching the forum for cool offroad steel rims in this dimensions but faild badly. I would be very lucky if you can help me and wanna thank you in advance ! greetings from Italy Franz Erlacher
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The pulley that adjusts the power steering belt (unsure of what it is called) has seized. Is there a way to loosen it up by cleaning and lubricating it? Or do i need to replace the pulley altogether? I have an 87 3door with a FI 1.8. If i need to replace it, I sure could use some advice on where to find one. THANKS!
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o/ I tried a bit of searching before hand and didn't come up with anything similar to my problem, and NASIOC didn't have much help other that the direction to this site. (Which I'm ecstatic about.) I bought a 1985 GL from my in-laws, I found the car a year ago and was about to buy it when they said they needed it more, so I let them snatch it up with the intent of buying it from them later on. Well, that time has come and now it's mine. They drove it maybe 2,000 miles in the year they owned it and did improper maintenance. Now it's got a dead lifter and 2 blown head gaskets. I'm not very concerned about those two issues, they're easy fix's for me. I am however concerned with my 4WD system. FWD works perfectly, it'll even do a one tire fire if I'm not easy on the peddle. 4hi it makes a ton of gearbox noise from the center diff, and it feels like one of the rear wheels locks up and just drags, all while going straight, I haven't dared to turn. 4lo makes the same noise however it seems to work just fine. I haven't really tried 4lo that much due to the fear of it breaking on dry pavement. The weirdest part of all this, is it only goes back in 2wd if I'm going in reverse. It refuses to go back while moving forward. If you've got idea's before I start cracking the box's open, I'm all ears.
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Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help!
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I have a problem when I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down like it is not getting enough gas or something. If I slowly depress the pedal the engine does speed up but when put under load, it bogs down again. I have been fighting this on and off for a few weeks now. I had initially thought it was bad gas so when I worked through a tank or two it seemed to return to normal for a time. However it has returned. I added SeaFoam to the tank but it has not resolved the problem. I can find no vacuum leaks and the car idles normal, no skipping or misfiring. I can't imagine it is bad gas at this point. I looked on the formums before posting and did find another person with a similar issue in a 89 wagon and his was a coil issue. Could this be what is happening with mine?
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Well hello there...glad to finally be a part of USMB. Just bought an 88 Subaru GL Manual 4x4 w/ hi and lo. woo woo and this message board has already been a big help with some repairs I am doing myself. I'm an absolute novice as far as car repairs go, but I'm stoked to learn and share knowledge with everyone. So far the GL has been great and I'm excited to keep working on it. Anyone out there with a GL!?!?
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picked up a great '87 GL wagon with only about 30k miles on it last winter. engine was pretty clean, no real fluid leaks, was working great till a couple months ago. when i started her up cold, and just pulled away from the curb, she wouldn't shift into 2nd gear unless i let her warm up a little, and run through the gears a couple times while still parked. after that, she'd shift fine and the problem wouldn't happen again till she's parked and cold. this car's body is in pretty good shape, has manual locks and windows and runs great otherwise, sans some front end alignment that needs to be adjusted and i hope to drive her into the next century so really looking at getting to the bottom of this. seems like the trans fluid isn't circulating until it's warmer and thinner, possibly? gonna drain it and put in a new filter and new fluid, WHAT TYPE AND HOW MUCH, EXACTLY, do you use? maybe as treatment fluid of some kind can be added w/ the new fluid? heard a few different answers and suggestions, but can always count on the USMB for delivering the best advice. thanks, Glen.
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Wipers on my 1988 subaru GL at times do nothing, but work most of the time. If you turn the car off, and turn the key to the 'on' position (so has power and headlights can be turned on) the wipers work, but then when you start the car, they may or may not work. A side point that may just confuse the issue is that the radio is also affected the same as the wipers at the same time, but not always. The fuse has been checked and is fine. Any ideas? 12/13/2016 Found a fix to this issue. When they stop working jiggle the keys, like you are trying (but not too hard) to turn the car on or off. That fixes it every time. don't know root cause of problem, but don't really have time to ook into it. Thanks everyone who tried to help! -
Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
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To y'all with the EA81 wisdom out there, I've got a 1984 GL Hatchback which I bought back in July and haven't been driving a ton since, because I'm a college student and bike/walk/bus almost everywhere in town on a day-to-day basis. I basically start the car often enough to keep the carbs clean, plus the occasional grocery haul or similar large purchase. She's running, and I've already repaired the windshield and muffler to get 'er up to safety inspection standard. Now comes the part where I start doing repairs on the car more as preventative maintenance than scrambling to keep her road legal. I don't need my car to be a performance machine, or in perfect condition, but she's ten years older than I am and I'd like to keep her around and working well as long as I can because she's really fun to drive. Here's what I definitely know: The trans isn't slipping, and she's doing about 25-28 mpg city which is a teeny bit low compared to estimated, but then to be honest because of living in the mountains I tend to keep her in lower gears and rev to 3600 for uphill torque, instead of driving as efficiently as humanly possible. I'm sure if I shifted perfectly, used ethanol-free on every single tank, and drove in a less hilly place I'd be doing alright for gas mileage. Interior is cozy. Superficially she looks great and everything is where it should be. The good news is, she's not *super rusty* or otherwise beaten up due to being a west coast car for 28 of the last 32 years - only about 140k miles, and the frame and engine bay are pretty good looking. The car has made its way to Virginia now, hence why preventative maintenance is a bigger deal. We're not midwestern levels of road salty out here but the season is steadily approaching... I've done some looking around this forum and others to find wisdom on these topics but this is more my personal log of my own car and its questions to be asked and answered. Every Subaru is its own machine with its own quirks! Anyway, here's what I've got for questions and/or things to do: I've been doing what I can to get ethanol-free gasoline but sometimes I have to take E10 because I just can't reach a station immediately. Previous owners weren't exactly great about this either. I've heard older Subarus are pretty okay with ethanol relative to other cars of the same era, but are there any things like fuel lines i should think to check? The bad news is, there definitely is a good deal of rust in the pinch welds on the driver's side plus some in the passenger's side (not as badly, though), and the driver's side rear wheel well has definitely seen better days. How do I assess the depth of the rust, and how bad it is? I know the pinch weld in the front driver's side is strong enough to support a jack if need be from having done it myself (though I feel much safer using the frame rails, which are solid), so she's not totally f***ed yet. The body doesn't appear to be askew, so it's not like the rear panel is falling off. Yet. I'll also get some pictures soon when I'm poking around. I'd rather have to pay $100 for a few buckets of rust remover/sealer/whatever product than $1250 for rebuilding the entire pinch weld, so here's hoping that'll be the case. I may also see how hard it is to remove the interior carpeting from the location above the pinch weld and see if any rust has crept up into the cabin. That would be a definite cause for concern. I also definitely have an oil pan gasket leak, and maybe a valve cover gasket leak? I've already found a nasioc forum thread going over most of that and I'll poke around at the motor soon to get those gaskets and o-rings looked at as necessary. Maybe a coolant leak? [don't need a whole ton of advice there unless there's any useful part numbers, or big warnings I may need] The shifter linkages also certainly need tightening. 3rd gear in particular feels almost as wiggly as neutral. [see above - don't need a ton of advice unless there is a set of bushings I may need, or a warning as to other problems this may involve} What rubber bits in the suspension or steering rack might need poking at? The rubber around the original windshield was brittle, and the dashboard has cracks, and so I figure other original '84 plastics might need some work. Also, any useful replacement parts, or cases where aftermarket actually beats OEM? So here is my to-do list for the next week or so, starting today: clean the motor off to check for leaks check oil and maybe coolant levels find part numbers for gaskets get photos of the rust find products to mitigate rust figure out if I need any new bushings for shifter linkage, or if it's just a matter of tightening up what's already there go over the maintenance logs that the previous owner gave me, decipher the handwriting, figure out if any big things were ever missed in the last few years My to-do list for the longer term: fix oil leak fix up anything that E10 gas has messed with find any weakened bushings or other plastics tighten shifter linkages remove/mitigate all surface rust prevent any new deeper rust from forming solve issues with any deep rust that already exists, and especially any that threatens the car's structural stability -
This thread on lock cylinder interchangeability has gotten me thinking. I'm on the hunt for an EA82 (Specifically an '88 or '89 GL), and have not had luck finding the right one. I've been thinking about gathering parts so when I do get one, I can easily swap out parts and pieces without having to hunt for them or wait for shipping. Ultimately, I would like to add a killswitch (or three) and have the locks be rekeyed to help with security. Can I go the junkyard, take a set of locks off of any EA82 wagon, have them rekeyed at a locksmiths, and have everything swap over really easily? Is there a better way to do this? Is there anything else you do to help with security? Let me know your thoughts!
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So I bought a gorgeous 2wd hatchback and everything on it is goorgeeeeous to a fault. Consistently maintained, no major rust, interior is nice, gearbox is working well, oil and coolant leaks are minor and under control. Dedicated picture thread for the car coming soon so I can show her off. The brakes, however, have not agreed to age so finely. The car takes some coercion to stop, to a degree I consider unsafe around contemporary cars. The current master cylinder outputs force at a rate equal to the force of my foot on the pedal. I have strong legs but the car is still 2500 pounds. I want to do the following: New rotors Bigger calipers, under 14 or 15 inch alloy rims The nastiest brake fluid I can buy A more robust master cylinder Potentially even new lines R1 concepts can build new old-gen Subaru-spec rotors to order, and I've heard that they're pretty well made. Any other parts suggestions that will fit without major hub modifications?
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I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/
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I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
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Hello all, My automatic transmission in my 84 GL hatchback is not shifting gears when in drive. I can manually shift them from first to second with the shifter but it will not do it on it's own in drive. I have it at a transmission shop and they said they tried replacing the modular and checking for the compression (which was fine) but it still is resisting. Would anyone know what is wrong? Or would someone know where I can look for a transmission for the car and what are some interchangeable transmissions. -
The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time.
