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Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
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So a friend sent me the link to a CL ad and I had a buddy pick it up for me while I was across country. I guess I will find out what I bought when I get home in a few weeks. All I know is the Seller claims it needs ALOT of work. Here are the CL ad photos for now.
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Hello everyone. I am currently looking at possibly buying a 1986 Subaru GL 4WD wagon that's on a lot in Washington, but I'm in California so I had someone check it out for me. He tells me that the on-demand 4WD is not a push-button, as I expected, but rather on a lever on the steering column. I've tried to look into this, and it seems like Subaru stopped making that kind of 4WD transimission in the late 70's? Can anyone discuss this with me? This is a big purchase for me - not a "fun" car, but would be my only car. Thank you!
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This is my 1986 Brat. It had some engine problems when i first got it but now runs well. It is still in pretty rough shape bodywise though... And needs alot of body work. Working on restoring it little by little but living all the way in Guam its pretty hard to find parts.
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So I've put up a go fund me and am hoping to get help from you guys! I am turning my 83 wagon into a rally car. Right now I am working on the weight reductions and the suspension. I'm hoping to participate in some races next spring and summer. It would be awesome to have a USMB rally car to get some attention to the forums. If it's allowed I will post the link below. Please tell me if it needs to be removed due to rules. If anyone could lend some time helping me with various things (Ideas on suspension, Ideas on weight reductions and drivetrains that might work with a higher powered EA81. I plan on getting most of the forged parts from RAM. Not sure about which turbo I want but will figure that out when the motor part of the build comes along. Here's the link if anyone wants to throw a few bucks towards this build. Any help at all... Even encouragement is greatly appreciated. http://www.gofundme.com/baja500racecar Any suggestions for body and paint? I am going to research bed liners and possible cover it in a rhino line... If it won't effect air and weight.
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My parts vehicle (1990 Loyale) has the inboard A/C and my daily driver (1989 GL) has the A/C thats by the battery, the old A/C that was on my GL was made by KIKI DIESEL, thats all i knew, well it was almost impossible to find a replacement but apparently some nissan or something fitted mine so there it is now, my question is, if my A/C or alternator are compatible with this other version of the EA82? and why did subaru make 2versions of how the A/C mounted on the engine? if there is a way to mount these into my other engine? it would be nice to have spares. thanks! 1st picture is 1990 Loyale (blue) 2nd picture is 1989 GL (tanish)
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im in no need to know what these are or in need to fix them but ive been wondering what they are or what goes there, any help is greatly appreciated! just theres nothing about these on the changes on EA82 topic, and if there is, theres no picture for me to know it was or what it used to be. all of these are from a GL wagon, except for the cruise control that comes from a Loyale. ive attached 6 pictures, 1. first one is inbetween the foglight and steering wheel, no its not some future add on of ABS before subaru pulled the plug on the EA82 when the EJ series was introduced, i know it says ABS on the back of it but it also says ABS on the front grill, so its not ABS and ive looked at numerous GL-10's and non have the option or whatever goes there. 2. the next one is those clips that hold the headliner up, some wagons have an extra clip on the side of the middle back one, some dont, i broke mine when i was trying to fish the wire for the hatch light i added. 3. the next one is next to the tail lights, is this the switch to tell me if the hatch is open or closed? there on both sides, mine has never told me that the hatch is open in the dash lights, until i found a parts car and that one does. 4. the next one is of the cover that goes between the pedals and the rat nest of wires, some vehicles have them and some dont, did they all come with it and just not bother putting them back on? also the front skid plate, did they all come with it but on the first oil change they never put it back on? 5. next one is cruise control, why does the Loyale's cruise control look so ancient? i thought they came with the button that goes below the defroster on the left of the dash? 6. last one is of the seat belts, drivers side has this thing that wraps around to stop the seat belt while the other has a button, im guessing its been changed before, but whats the difference? or why? thanks for your opinions and help, just things ive been wondering about. (some images may be upside down, sorry about that, im on my phone)
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Hi Everyone, Just got a 1982 GL Wagon for $175, this was a nostalgia buy, as my parents drove me around as a kid in this car in the 80's/90's. The guy I bought it from said it needed a new fuel pump, I took him at his word and put a new one in, the fuel pump is not getting current. I traced the wire from the pump all the way to this funky relay (that's a total guess) that I can't find ANYTHING about online. Help!? Just need to get the engine fuel and I think it's ready to go. The previous owner did seem to tear the stereo out and there are quite a few loose wires about. Is there any in-line fuses I'm missing or is this not a relay at all?
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- fuel pump
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I have an EA81 hardtop coupe that is fwd, and my front wheels are shot, as well as having bald tires. I have a pair of 5 lug wheels just sitting around, so i was wondering if it was possible to convert the rear to a 5 lug. It has drum brakes in the rear. Plus, I think that it would be pretty sweet.
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Alright, so this is the first time ive posted on here before, ive been on here for 2 years now but never had a reason to post, well i recently bought a blue 1990 loyale that had been sitting for 10+ years, i need help deciding whether to pull the plug on this vehicle for parts for my other wagon or rescue it. Pros: not a single spot of rust interior is beautiful body is straight as an arrow A/C somehow still works power windows and locks work 130,xxx drove 180 miles from where i bought it. 4wd Cons: Automatic transmission oil seal leaks smokes ALOT when it runs rear passenger wheel bearing is bad electric fan does not work head gaskets look pretty soaked in oil so it probably needs new headgaskets my question is what is all the smoking out the exhaust? how do i fix it? is it head gaskets? and how much life can i expect out of an automatic EA82? is it even worth fixing, because my other wagon is ready for a new rear bumper and powersteering and seats and more stuff. keep in mind that i live in south Texas where these EA82 cars are rare and have yet to see another in the last 3 years of driving my GL sadly... i am the cars only mechanic, and finding parts down here is a joke. everyone refuses to work on it, even the dealership. any help is greatly appreciated thanks!! -Omar
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Is it true that you can use Mazda Miata rear shocks to lower the rear of an ea81? I have a fwd hardtop, so I can't just adjust the trailing arm to lower it.
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I have a 84' GL 2 dr with a broken gas tank door. The door itself is fine, by the plastic closing mechanism is what is broken, not allowing the lid to stay closed. Attached a couple of pictures that hopefully will make my statement clearer. What I am wondering is if anyone knows where I can get a new, used, part, of if not, any suggestions on fixing it, or modifying. Thanks in advance for all your in put.
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So I went out and bought some nice 16" rims on brand new tires. Little did I know subarus lug pattern is 4x140 and not 4x100 or 4x114 like I needed. Does anyone know if I can redrill my rims to fit the 4x140 pattern? They are universal 4 lug so they already have 4x100 and 4x114 bolt holes. Can I do this myself? Difficulty?
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I bought this car for $350 a few weeks ago.The body is in really great shape. The interior was terrible and by my standards that's saying something lol, there were no brakes, some electrical stuff is a bit off (No turn signals and fuel pump is hardwired to a fuse), and a lot of oil leaks. It needs a clutch cable too. So far, I've put a new oil pump in, an oil pan gasket, Subaru xt seats, Honda accord rear seats, new brake pads and rotors, spark plugs, and an air filter. I gutted a lot of the soiled interior. It runs great and sounds even better since the muffler had been previously sawed off in the middle of the car.... It won't let me post pictures for some reason.
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First post to this board. Just bought a 84 GL. Only one of the four wheel drives works. When the normal 4x4 light is on it won't engage gears. It's like I'm in neutral. When I pop it to 4 lo it works but the guy that sold it to me said he thought that was the only 4 wheel option and he took it up to speeds much higher than 4 low can get to. It is a Manuel, and has a ea81 brat motor in it. I would like to get both working. Just wondering how big a fix this might be. Thank you.
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We are the Ford's. New Years is also our anniversary. The boys wanted us to join them at the orv park near our house. It was a lot of fun. We also met a couple of new Subaru friends. Chris if your out there it was great meeting you and your friends. Peace and a Happy New Year.
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GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore!
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Hellloooo USMB. First off, thanks for all the advice on here. I've been lurking for awhile, probably should have posted something earlier but anyway... like before I bought this flesh-colored wagon. 1987 GL wagon, carbed, Hi Lo tranny and 125,480 miles and lots of...let's call it character so I don't start swearing lol. First mistake-- didn't drive it much, towed it home. Replaced (new parts) water pump (old one dead) timing belts plugs (NGK R) Wires Dist Rotor Battery Has 1/4 or so new gas with a bit of sea foam Used Weber DGAV 32/36 Carb, trans-dapt mounting plate, 130/130 jets. No choke. Doesn't have air filter on it meow. I've also ripped out the interior and cleaned out the critters' collection). Sheesh that was a PITA. It seems that either engine mounts were sheared or the bolts fell off?? One of them doesn't line up. There's a bit of crumple around the hood zone, and no grill. I did some compression tests, and they are loooow. ($25 Harbor Freight tool) I tried to give each cyl 10 cranks, and did each three times. Removed all plugs. Didn't do wet test, from what I've read (source:internet) boxxer engine doesn't give best results for that? I can probably figure it out if y'all think I ought to tho. 3-70, 60, 75 psi 4- 70, 80, 80 psi 1- 80, 60, 70 psi 2- 70, 70, 80 psi This was warm. (I also did the same test cold (like at 40 degrees) and they were all 100-110 psi what gives?? I did procedure same same, maybe there was moisture in there, it had been sitting for awhile?) Also, if I keep cranking, it will keep going 100+, but doesn't jump a whole lot the first crank, 10-20psi. If I let it idle, it will eventually stall out with fouled plugs after 15-20 minutes. With clean plugs, when I run it at 3500 or so rpm for a few minutes (in neutral, it ain't regstrd yet), the plugs look like this--(left to right 1,2,3,4 cylinder) Odd, no? The #2 looks healthy, but the others are blackened. I guess "fluffy" describes it. If it won't start, it has been bc plugs are fouled, and #3 has been wet fouled. This is what I think, but I the stump has been chumped, and I would like your input. 1. The carb needs adjusting. There may be a small vac leak. The idle mixture screw doesn't seem to make much difference, although I think I can hear a sucking sound when I screw it all the way in (idle screw in = less gas for idle?) 2. The engine needs a rebuild, and the plugs will continue to foul until that is done. Headgaskets came to mind? but the exhaust doesn't smell sweet by any means. It blows out a bit of white exhaust I guess. I have had to fill the coolant, but I figured that was just the cooling system filling in? Something to keep an eye on anyhow. me--> What do you think? Is there any other info I can provide? All input is welcome! I appreciate all your knowledge and have learned a ton lurking. Thanks A Bend, OR (ps hope the images are large enough, they look small in preview...)
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Hi folks, long time stalker of the forum.... Now I need some help. GOt my daughter an 86 GL Wagon, I have an 85... Love these little tanks! But her's developed a couple of symptoms I'm trying to trouble shoot. Few days ago, her passengers headlight went very dim... Checked fuses, replaced out of principle. Nothing... couple days later at school it wouldn't start. Tried jumping it, nothing. The OS lights all come on, the electric fan kicks on, radio powers... but when ignition turned to start, nothing. Fan stops, lights go out... release starting position and all lights and fan come back on, figure that is just an interrupter mode while starting. maybe not. So, thought maybe starter... Replaced with good one from my 85 parts bin... Same symptoms. Starter does not engage... Took old starter to parts store, tested bad. Again, replacement starter was tested (good) before installing. Could be ignition switch I guess, but several people have told me that would be a long shot... Any help with gitting my girls little tank back on the road is much appreciated. I have read about the grounds and am going after them this weekend... Some where on this forum a guy listed 7 grounds to be checked and corrected. Plan to do that asap... Anybody have diagrams of exactly where they are located... I got an idea, but details always help. However, the starting thing is a bit odd to me. Car is an 86 GL Wagon Dual Range, 5sp... Hicrappy carb, no AC, No accessory lighting...
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Anybody know where I can find a grill guard for an 84 GL Wagon? Also how much weight do they add, and most importantly, how much they cost? Thanks
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What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!
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Ok so im going to do a little rust removal and repainting on my GL wagon. The rust isnt so bad that I will need to take it to a body shop so I would like to do it myself and save a bundle. My plan so far is to remove all rust with rust removers and fine-grit sand paper, then to use Bondo to replace the lost metal, and then repaint. The last part seems to be the greatest challenge so far... I CANT FIND THE RIGHT *BLEEPING* PAINT!!! The only color info I have on my car is a tab under the hood that says "color number 243". So far, not a single online automotive paint store has what im looking for when I enter that number. Its the standard 84 wagon light blue, which i thought was pretty common on the wagons and would therefor be at least somewhat common on the paint market. Can someone please give me some wisdom on this?? Or at least the right info (like what the actual name of the paint is) so I can enter it in the websites and get the right paint.
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howdy all, am going to try and resurrect my 83 wagon which has been sitting since 2008. (i have spent time poring over previous pertinent threads seeing if this has already been adequately addressed, but did not find what i am looking for) when last running, "olive" had developed a problem in which she would fire up and idle just fine, but had no power and would not accelerate beyond a crawl. i am no mechanic, back in earlier days i learnt how to replace the clutch, axles, steering knuckles, but not much beyond that, my pal joe, who gave me olive, and i spent three hot days trying three different c-w carbs to see if we could affect a cure, but gave up, i left her parked and jumped on my bicycle and the bus for a few years until i found an 84 2wd sw ("silver car") locally for $800, which served me beyond the call of duty until she blew a head gasket on the james river parkway south of springfield, coming back from the eastern ozarks sunday evening. i managed to limp silver car adding water every 15 miles to get to the oklahoma border and within range of a free AAA tow back to tulsa (the gasket blew a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust, so no water in oil yet, but there is something knocking, perhaps a lifter, when started). anyhow, the next door neighbor came over having heard the tow truck come in and offered his services as a shade tree wrencher, since olive was sitting back in back with the mysterious ailment above mentioned, he thought it would be cheaper and easier to get her running again rather than trying to fix silver car which will need the engine pulled regardless. he spent the last two afternoons working on olive, he established that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through the filters to the carb, and has dissasembled both c-w carbs and found the accelerator pump diaphragms on both to be rotted/perforated and thinks that may be the source of the no power/stall issue. am now waiting for surfside aauto parts to call about a new accelerator pump i ordered yesterday. meanwhile, the reading i have done on this board leaves me with the impression that the carter weber is a problematic unit, and i never did get very good gas mileage out of it, whereas the hitachi on silver car, even in the neglected state i allowed her to be in had delivered 28 mpg on the tank i used getting over to the ozarks. ok, so enough background ramble, the thesis question is, can i switch carbs from the 84 to the 83, and what all is involved? there is extensive documentation about fitting ea81 with SPFI, but i do not have interest or locally obtainable resources for that, but i do have both cars. i am thinking the dizzys may be paired to each carb, but are the manifolds and wiring different? as the carter seems to be a problem, and the hitachi seems to deliver better mpg and is much more widely available, i think the detailed discussion may be of use to others in the future. finally there is the chance that another part/function/system other that the fuel/carburetor may be the problem causing the idle fine but no get up and go that i last experienced when i parked olive six years ago. please help, this is not a leisurely project, being broke down right now is extremely destablising, i have had a challenging year of transition, and have only began to get on my feet, as recently as three weeks ago experienced being flat broke for the first time in years and really need to be able to get around to take care of some pressing tasks. i had planned to be spending this week running loads and assembling a multi ton uhaul load of vintage records to haul up to kansas. the title says it all in a nutshell, but i am also looking for insight about the c-w, i am so hoping just replacing the accelerator pump will fix the issue. thanks for any reply, and for being here to ask!
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I need some new shocks (also called "gas stays") to lift up the hatchback on my wagon. Anyone know where I can pick some up?
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Ok so my 1984 Wagon standard tranny is leaking a fair amount, (about two to three tablespoons every 24hrs i would guess) all the fluid is collecting around/on the drain plug and then it drips onto the exhaust pipe below. I have been regualry checking the dipstick and it is still saying its full, (I just redid the fluid) so thats a good thing. So far I have added STOPLEAK to combat the leaking but just in case that doesnt clear it up in the next few days does anyone else have any experience with these trannys and what to do when they leak?
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