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Showing results for tags 'hatch'.
Found 16 results
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Recently purchased an '86 Subaru Standard, my first FWD Subaru. Started contemplating a 4WD conversion, have a rusty Brat that would be a perfect donor... so I thought. This is why I will always return to this forum for research: Through searching this forum I learned that the 4wd hatch gas tank is 4wd hatch specific, the Brat tank would not work. There are ways around this using the fwd tank, but only if you lift the car considerably. I wish to keep the car more or less stock height. Also the driveline to the rear diff is different, the hatch has the shortest wheelbase of the ea81 models. Thats a no-fit for the Brat driveline. Plus the locations for the mustache hanger and center carrier bearing are not "there" on fwd models... would have to drill and tap locations for the bolts or have them protruding into the passenger compartment. And have read that the trans tunnel is shaped differently, and could need some massaging. Even after that the shift boots will most likely not have a great fit. It would be great with 4WD, but like wise people say on here; unless you are a masochist, leave it be and find one that is already 4WD. I will let it stay a gas sipper. Have heard mention that the "fat case" ea71's that come in this model are somewhat rare. Wonder if they are more similar to the ea81 than earlier ea71's. Thanks again USMB for the great info.
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Has anyone had any experience chasing water leaks into the hatch area of their EA82 3-door coupes? I have a feeling it's coming from the taillamps/trim panel, but I suppose it could be coming from the hatch itself too. Anyone solve this problem? I've got two coupes and they both enjoy collecting water in their smuggler's hatches.
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I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either. -
Trying to remove interior hatch cover to get at wiring. Everything on lower edge released BUT, the interior inset handle. Prying the trim down I can see two yellow plastic through clips, or whatever, but nothing will budge. How do I get that stubborn %#*~# off without tearing the surrounding plastic up? Stuck and stumped. -
Me and my girlfriend just recently purchased her a 1999 Subaru Legacy Brighton wagon and did all the first car maintainence on it. We figured out how to lock and unlock all the doors etc. but we have had a big issue with the hatch lock. Whenever we attempt to enter the key into the key slot, it only goes in about half way. From there I can lock and unlock the car with a bit of difficulty. The other day I attempted to lock it when the key broke in half... I was wondering if Either A. I was suppose to receive a trunk key, B. There is some sort of trick to unlocking and locking it, or C. The lock is faulty. Thanks so much -Craig -
I have a 2011 STI Hatch with an Accessport, SF Intake, and Turbo Exhaust. It sat for about a month and a half while I was away and when I came back to drive it down the east coast, the battery was dead so I got a jump to start it and head south from Rhode Island. I was noticing some pretty awful performance and gas mileage over the 15 hour trip. I averaged about 16 mpg and was not getting the performance I had gotten before. I thought it might be from the fuel sitting so long, but I filled up the tank several times over the trip. My intake filter is in rough shape, so I plan on replacing it, but I wasn't sure if that was the problem. Should I uninstall and reinstall the Accessport since the battery died? Not sure where to go from here. I'm fairly new to the mods. Any help would be appreciated! -
Just installed a Weber 32/36 DEGV this weekend. I wasn't sure what to do with the vacuum port on the EGR, so I left it alone. Drove 300 miles home just fine and super smooth. Got in touch with Weber and they said to remove the screw-type plug from the front left port on the Weber, so I did. Hooked a vacuum line from that port directly to the Weber last night. This morning on the way to work, the car would hesitate and/or stumble, no noise, just bog down a bit on the acceleration and randomly pick back up. Ran fine yesterday, so I unplugged the vacuum line to the EGR. Now it runs super smooth again. Forgot to add, EGR was recently cleaned, and the intake EGR ports were cleaned during the Weber install. EGR seems to operate properly, opening and closing as I rev the throttle up and down. So, I've read that keeping the EGR is ideal, but not necessary. Am I missing something on the install, I thought it should be direct from Weber to EGR? Any explanation would be appreciated. Thx all. EA81 GL 2dr Hatch -
I broke the glass in the back window of my wagon. The glass costs way more than the entire hatch and I don't have the tools or experience to switch the glass. So I am curious what years hatch is compatible with mine. The local junk yard has 20 or so 1995-1997 in various L, LS, LSI outback models. If I am lucky I will even find it in silver. They want $80 for the entire back hatch. As far as I know, parts for the 1996 either fit the 2.2 or 2.5. Mine is a 2.2. -
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I'm trying to track down a vehicle option that I've only ever seen once before. My brother wants one for his OBW, but I can't seem to find any record of them even existing. In my 1997 legacy outback limited there was a hard plastic cargo organizer/tray. It was about 8-9 inches deep and had removable dividers. It filled/covered the entire floor of the hatch area. This was in addition to the rubber/plastic giant floor mat at everyone has in their outback. This bin/organizer/tray/whatever sat on top of the normal mat. It was stamped with SUBARU. It came from the dealer. It was awesome. I have never seen another like it and I can find no mention of it in any searches. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? it just occurred to me that I've been referring to this thing in the past-tense. I still have it. It is has been made to fit my forester. If it will help, I can brave the frigid cold and try to clear all of the junk out of it and get a picture. -
I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go? -
I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance! -
Got my Hatch a couple months ago Shes got less than 7k on her. Id upload photos but all of them have such a high resolution I cant even fit. Shes got tints, raingaurds, and im hopin for a lip spoiler
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What years and body styles interchange for a DR 5 speed transmission? Will the 5 speed DR interchange easily between the models? I know this question has been beat to death, What years and parts interchange between the 2 Gen Brats, Wagons, Hatches and Coupes? I'm mostly interested in the sheet metal and exterior interchange. Thank you, Mike -
I have a 86 Subaru brat. I have three original center caps. I found a full set in better condition On a 84 gl hatch. Problem is they don't catch when I try to put them on. Is there a trick to get them to hold. I noticed the clips are a little different. The originals stick out higher then the new ones. But mine don't even stay on all that well. Does anyone have any ideas? the left side is from my brat. the right from a gl hatch http://file:///Users/admin/Downloads/image_1364517789482399.jpg -
So my fiancée has been driving my '94 GT lately... and yesterday she came out of work to find that someone had hit the back of it in the parking lot. They didn't leave a note, and while the business has security cameras, they don't cover that part of the parking lot. We filed a police report, but they can't do anything without any leads... So we're on our own. It must have been a truck or SUV, as the impact missed the bumper, but pushed in the metal in the middle of the hatch just to the right of the license plate. The glass didn't break, but it appears to have pulled back the bottom part of the window seal. The part where the lock is at is cleary pushed in, maybe an inch and a half or so. (I would post a photo, but the forum gallery is being reworked...) The biggest problem for now is that the hatch no longer opens. When you pull up on it, it doesn't feel like it is binding... so I think that the problem is with the lock mechanism being unable to release now that it is bent up. Does anyone know if the plastic cover on the interior of the hatch can be removed while the hatch door is closed? It's already sprung a bit from the accident, but I'm not entirely sure how it comes off... Thanks.
