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Showing results for tags 'hatchback'.
Found 19 results
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Hello! I think I finally found the right forums in arriving to this site. I've been buying Subaru wagons since the late 80's. My first was a '79 4wd, had an '84 (?) GL... Whatever. Owned 70s, 80s, 90s, & now 00s. I got a gen1 '00 Impreza OBS wagon and I frikin love it. I got a Manila envelope w/ repair receipts that wasn't titled "Subaru", it was titled "2000 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon" even though they never had other Suby's(!). I knew it was going to be OCD perfect, all in chronological order and extensive. I was right. Anyways, stoked to be here.
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My beloved 81 has been parked behind the barn for 15 years. Was running when I parked it. Life went on and she has been ignored. Would rather see her go to more use than the junkyard. Will sell parts if no one is interested in the entire car by March 1. There is rust underneath otherwise everything is straight. Crack in windshield. I am in the Dayton Ohio area.
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To y'all with the EA81 wisdom out there, I've got a 1984 GL Hatchback which I bought back in July and haven't been driving a ton since, because I'm a college student and bike/walk/bus almost everywhere in town on a day-to-day basis. I basically start the car often enough to keep the carbs clean, plus the occasional grocery haul or similar large purchase. She's running, and I've already repaired the windshield and muffler to get 'er up to safety inspection standard. Now comes the part where I start doing repairs on the car more as preventative maintenance than scrambling to keep her road legal. I don't need my car to be a performance machine, or in perfect condition, but she's ten years older than I am and I'd like to keep her around and working well as long as I can because she's really fun to drive. Here's what I definitely know: The trans isn't slipping, and she's doing about 25-28 mpg city which is a teeny bit low compared to estimated, but then to be honest because of living in the mountains I tend to keep her in lower gears and rev to 3600 for uphill torque, instead of driving as efficiently as humanly possible. I'm sure if I shifted perfectly, used ethanol-free on every single tank, and drove in a less hilly place I'd be doing alright for gas mileage. Interior is cozy. Superficially she looks great and everything is where it should be. The good news is, she's not *super rusty* or otherwise beaten up due to being a west coast car for 28 of the last 32 years - only about 140k miles, and the frame and engine bay are pretty good looking. The car has made its way to Virginia now, hence why preventative maintenance is a bigger deal. We're not midwestern levels of road salty out here but the season is steadily approaching... I've done some looking around this forum and others to find wisdom on these topics but this is more my personal log of my own car and its questions to be asked and answered. Every Subaru is its own machine with its own quirks! Anyway, here's what I've got for questions and/or things to do: I've been doing what I can to get ethanol-free gasoline but sometimes I have to take E10 because I just can't reach a station immediately. Previous owners weren't exactly great about this either. I've heard older Subarus are pretty okay with ethanol relative to other cars of the same era, but are there any things like fuel lines i should think to check? The bad news is, there definitely is a good deal of rust in the pinch welds on the driver's side plus some in the passenger's side (not as badly, though), and the driver's side rear wheel well has definitely seen better days. How do I assess the depth of the rust, and how bad it is? I know the pinch weld in the front driver's side is strong enough to support a jack if need be from having done it myself (though I feel much safer using the frame rails, which are solid), so she's not totally f***ed yet. The body doesn't appear to be askew, so it's not like the rear panel is falling off. Yet. I'll also get some pictures soon when I'm poking around. I'd rather have to pay $100 for a few buckets of rust remover/sealer/whatever product than $1250 for rebuilding the entire pinch weld, so here's hoping that'll be the case. I may also see how hard it is to remove the interior carpeting from the location above the pinch weld and see if any rust has crept up into the cabin. That would be a definite cause for concern. I also definitely have an oil pan gasket leak, and maybe a valve cover gasket leak? I've already found a nasioc forum thread going over most of that and I'll poke around at the motor soon to get those gaskets and o-rings looked at as necessary. Maybe a coolant leak? [don't need a whole ton of advice there unless there's any useful part numbers, or big warnings I may need] The shifter linkages also certainly need tightening. 3rd gear in particular feels almost as wiggly as neutral. [see above - don't need a ton of advice unless there is a set of bushings I may need, or a warning as to other problems this may involve} What rubber bits in the suspension or steering rack might need poking at? The rubber around the original windshield was brittle, and the dashboard has cracks, and so I figure other original '84 plastics might need some work. Also, any useful replacement parts, or cases where aftermarket actually beats OEM? So here is my to-do list for the next week or so, starting today: clean the motor off to check for leaks check oil and maybe coolant levels find part numbers for gaskets get photos of the rust find products to mitigate rust figure out if I need any new bushings for shifter linkage, or if it's just a matter of tightening up what's already there go over the maintenance logs that the previous owner gave me, decipher the handwriting, figure out if any big things were ever missed in the last few years My to-do list for the longer term: fix oil leak fix up anything that E10 gas has messed with find any weakened bushings or other plastics tighten shifter linkages remove/mitigate all surface rust prevent any new deeper rust from forming solve issues with any deep rust that already exists, and especially any that threatens the car's structural stability -
I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated. -
I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated.
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Hey there, I recently ordered some replacement CV axles for both the front driver and passenger sides. I measured the old ones and since they were so beat up I wasn't super accurate with my measurements. I purchased new Surtrack axles online, the number of splines matched up and the length seemed right. However when I got them at my house I compared them to the old ones and they were apx. 2" longer, I thought I would try them anyways and though maybe they will compress more with some weight and and pressure. I got one in and it is definitely to long. I can get it into the steering knuckle and through the bearing all the way and put a axle nut on it all the way and get the other end on as well. The issue is now my steering knuckle is being pushed too far out from the control arm and ball joint. Does anyone have experience buying new axles for this model 1985 GL Hatchback 4spd Manual HI/LOW 4x4 1.8 OHV? Every store online that their axle will fit and has the correct splines but they are all 27 13/32 - 27 3/8 and I believe I need something closer to 25 3/8 - 26 3/8. If anyones has any suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get this Subie out on the Minnesota streets and lakes before the weather gets to warm! Thank you.
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Hey there everyone, I have started to some work on my new 1985 GL Hatchback. I am not super familiar with Subaru motors and I have intermediate/novice skills as a car mechanic ( I know vintage motorcycles much better ) Anyways, I was removing my AC and its components and saw this and was wondering what it went to? It is all metal, it goes down/behind/underneath the driver side valve cover. There is also a bracket behind it that looks like it may have supported something as well. My questions: – What is this? – What was attached to it? – Is this something I can operate the car safely without? – Does anyone have a reference photo for a GL with this component(s) not missing? Please see photo attached, I outlined the part in question in yellow. Thanks pals.
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Hello. I was looking at buying a 2002 Subaru hatchback for a daily driver. I found one that I thought was good but just a little unsure about some things. The car has 240,000 miles on the chassis with no rust. The owner has replaced the engine and its sitting at 80,000 miles. The car is surprisingly clean with only a few dings here and there. He has put on new brakes new shocks/struts, tires, turbo, and a new subframe. Is it worth buying or should I stay away? -
I broke the glass in the back window of my wagon. The glass costs way more than the entire hatch and I don't have the tools or experience to switch the glass. So I am curious what years hatch is compatible with mine. The local junk yard has 20 or so 1995-1997 in various L, LS, LSI outback models. If I am lucky I will even find it in silver. They want $80 for the entire back hatch. As far as I know, parts for the 1996 either fit the 2.2 or 2.5. Mine is a 2.2. -
Hey there, I own a 1986 Standard 2dr Hatchback that came standard with the two single large round lights. They work fine, but as a side project I was looking to convert them over to the four square light setup as both a practical and aesthetic upgrade. There are times that the rounds just don't produce enough light even with the highs on and having the four lamps seems like the best option. Not to mention they look a lot more appropriate considering I have seen other models of my same wagon with the four light set up and they look unbelievably slick. Because of the universal compatibility of the body styles in this line of vehicles making the swap is relatively easy, however I need some advice on the wiring harness for the lights in terms of whether I would have to rip out and replace the entire wiring setup and replace it with one that was designed to accommodate the four lights, or if there is a half-harness system of sorts that disconnects at a certain point from the rest of the system for this very purpose. Any advice on what sort of parts I might need as well as advice is greatly appreciated. Beaux. For Reference Before: After:
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Hey there guys and gals, I am the proud owner of a 1986 2 dr FWD Hatchback with 122K on the car. I bought it from its original owner so most of the original parts that came with it are starting to wear out and require routine matience. I'm working on my clutch and I am looking for a replacement flywheel seeing as the one I have currently installed has already been machined once and I always plan ahead for the unexpected. The only problem I have is that this part is hard to come by. The issue is that I have one of the rare FWD only models that was just sort of thrown together at the end of the model year from leftover parts to create a sellable product. Subaru stopped manufacturing the car model in 1984, but kept selling the vehicles with a new model year on them until they ran out. As a result, I've run into my share of issues when tracking down parts and have spent many a weekend in the wrecking yards tracking down old donor cars to keep my old gal running. I need the 7 in diameter flywheel. Seeing as not many FWD models were really made and still exist, there is very little demand for and no after market manufacturer for this part. All of the flywheels I've found are the 8 in flywheels that are designed for the 1800 class engine that was primarially put into the 4WD models that came shortly after my model year. I'm fairly confident that I can sand the glazing off of the flywheel with my grinder, seeing as it isn't gouged or warped in any way. However, while it may not be an issue now, in the future if I can't find a replacement flywheel for my engine I may be forced to make a conversion over to the 4WD Dual Range, which might force me to have to upgrade to the larger engine. If anyone has this part or has any advice on what sort of transplanting/frankensteining I can do to solve this issue, please don't hesitate to message me. If there are any other models that carry a flywheel that might be compatible then let me know so that I might broaden my search.
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The Hatch received a new clutch, machined flywheel, new front DS CV shaft and hub (THANKYOUSOMUUUCH Gloyale Rear drive train is a w.i.p. so currently running it without the rear shafts. Everything else back in after the drive shaft was straightened + refurbished with new u-joints, diff worked over. The engine was not removed to replace the clutch, the trans was pulled. It was rocked back and forth a bit, so the following symptoms.. bad engine mounts? It starts a bit more rough, and immediately with vibrations felt through the car, never before present. They reappear when engaging the clutch and moving the car forward from a stop and at very low speeds. Engine not is now a subtly lower tone, and while it's not drastically slower, I can tell it runs with a bit less power. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Bonus engine bay pic, glad to see my rear end paint job from New Year's holding up extremely well, but sorry no pics of that yet. http://postimg.org/image/9f8csxn17/ -
I need some new shocks (also called "gas stays") to lift up the hatchback on my wagon. Anyone know where I can pick some up? -
Well a couple of weeks back I had a deal with fellow USMB forum member Giles (SCOOBYDOO) and swapped my much loved MV1800 (BRAT) for a Rare GLF Hatchback. The GLF is surprisingly complete but there are a couple of little "O" clips that hold the parcel shelf in that are broken. They are plastic and I think they would have been a common breaking point ? Do any USMB members maybe have a "Parts" GLF or is there anybody who might be able to supply me with them ? The GLF is fitted with Giles,s fibreglass wings (Fenders) see here.. http://z15.invisionfree.com/Mv_Brat_Brumby/index.php?showtopic=2145&st=0last Heres a few pics.... "MO" -
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i recently purchased an 85 GL hatch and i found this in the engine bay. how bad for the axel is this? im rather inexperienced in working on subarus unfortunately.
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Hello, hello! I'm looking at a 2007 Impreza 2.5i Hatchback. I've never bought Subaru before so I'm asking for some guidance and help with my decision making. Are there any red flags I should consider before moving forward? Any typical problems I should be aware of during certain mileage markers? Any comments, positive or negative would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!
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Got my Hatch a couple months ago Shes got less than 7k on her. Id upload photos but all of them have such a high resolution I cant even fit. Shes got tints, raingaurds, and im hopin for a lip spoiler
