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Showing results for tags 'help'.
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My husband and I own a 2006 Baja w/ turbo. It has run great for a while, has some past issues that we thought were resolved shortly after purchase. We were currently debating on trading in for a newer subie that fits our needs better but have hit a major snag. It started throwing codes at us. We have gotten the PO303 code with no luck chasing down the issue. We changed the spark plugs, ran great for a few days, then code repeat. Change coil, ran fine for a few days, code repeat. Replaced cyl3 injector, ran good for a day. Then once again, code repeat. We have chased every rabbit hole we can think of and it seems to fix the problem for a very short period then poof, back to square one. My husband even tried unhooking the exhaust to to see if maybe we were catching the code from something in the cad converter. No luck. Now its back to doing exactly what it did when we first got the code. Rough idle, but has now acquired the problem of dying out when the clutch is depressed..... Any ideas or approaches you folks can think of? We dont have the money to dump a lot into this trying to chase down every possibility, but unless we have it running well, we have nothing to trade in to get even close to getting what we were after. Questions, comment, ideas are so very welcome and this point.... we have become extremely stressed over this issue..... -
Anyone help me please! I changed my clutch. Used the old throw out bearing as it has the retrofit sleeve and bearing was of much better quality than the one supplied. Anyways all back together now the fork with the bearing/sleeve/retainer clip just seems to have way too much play I can't figure out what I did wrong maybe a picture if the fork assembled completely before mating to the engine would help Please help I need to fix today! -
I have a 94 loyale and I've been looking for bigger alterain tires or 15 wheels to fit the ones I have but I can't find anything. How do other people get bigger wheels and tires that fit? -
So I've put up a go fund me and am hoping to get help from you guys! I am turning my 83 wagon into a rally car. Right now I am working on the weight reductions and the suspension. I'm hoping to participate in some races next spring and summer. It would be awesome to have a USMB rally car to get some attention to the forums. If it's allowed I will post the link below. Please tell me if it needs to be removed due to rules. If anyone could lend some time helping me with various things (Ideas on suspension, Ideas on weight reductions and drivetrains that might work with a higher powered EA81. I plan on getting most of the forged parts from RAM. Not sure about which turbo I want but will figure that out when the motor part of the build comes along. Here's the link if anyone wants to throw a few bucks towards this build. Any help at all... Even encouragement is greatly appreciated. http://www.gofundme.com/baja500racecar Any suggestions for body and paint? I am going to research bed liners and possible cover it in a rhino line... If it won't effect air and weight.
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Hi everyone I'm new here just picked up a 2002 subaru forester in trade. Now I test drove the car a week ago and no issues. Today when I pick it up and bring it home. It runs like crap. It hesitates bad in 1st gear seems like it has not enough fuel. Then it picks up and I shift into 2nd and it bucks and surges. It does this in every gear. When your on the highway it surges and you can see the rpms go up and down as its running. Cel is on I checked it today as I brought it home had code 0301 for every cylinder 1 2 3 4 had a code for bank 1 sensor and also showed a code for a small evaporated leak. Any ideas on what maybe causing this? Please any help and ideas where to start or possibly what is causing this and how to fix it it greatly aappreciate this is now my only transportation and I have a young child and I don't feel it's safe to drive him in this car. Can anyone give me some advice and or help please. Thank you very much!!! -
So I recently have found myself purchasing a 1997 Subaru Legacy L. I've never had a Subaru before always wanted one but could never afford one....or so I thought. For a whole 650$ I found my Subaru on Craig's list and started the wonderful journey of my project in motion. She is a 97 legacy L with the 2.2L 4cyl and I purchased her at 238xxx she's got 2425xx on her now and I adore it. At 3400 lbs her lol 2.2 puts out 160hp (obviously many people know this herejust stating what ice learned and done) I've replaced both struts in the rear with vsv struts off a 97 legacy GT AS WELL as a fuel sending unit from the same car. Pick and pull has been my friend for this. I need a new windshield front shocks and struts fix front differential tires and I'm sure much more. I've also have to get a rear bumper as I bought it without the bumper and a hitch attached I've contemplated doing an sti swap but not sure what I need. I've read I need an ECU motor rear differential and tranny along with wiring harness and clutch to do a manual tranny. I need some education and help with her. My name is weyland and this is my Subaru story. Any help and advice would bee greatful
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So I am looking to buy another Subaru to replace my current daily driver and I need advice from experienced drivers who drive a Subaru as their daily driver. I'm stuck between 2 used Subarus. One is a 2008 Subaru Impreza 2.5i with 53,000 miles and the other is a 2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5GT with 97,000 miles. Now I'm not sure what I should be more concerned about, the year or the miles. I own a 2002 STi but it is a weekend car for me as i want to keep it in good condition. I take good care of my cars so I think both cars would last much longer than other cars but I need advice from drivers who are more experienced than me. I also created this topic for anyone else that needed advice on a Subaru purchase. Feel free to post -
replace the clutch and flywheel on 1989 3d GL 4 by 4 it is now smoking on start up in the clutch area. not exactly sure what is going on I believe I may need to adjust the clutch tension cable and the idle . I would appreciate some insight from someone who has done this before or understands how this is supposed to work -
So i currently own a 2000 legacy wagon, and am concidering buying a standard impreza for use of parts, i want it's manual transmission, sway bars if possible, drive shafts, and I know I will need it's rear differential. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how compatible these two vehicles are?? A response would be greatly appreciated. -
Hey guys, New to the forum world! I've decided that I have too big of plans for my legacy than i really am capable of.. Though, with as much time as i need, I plan to have this thing running in better condition than when it was originally produced! Though, I may need the knowledge and advice of many other drivers... my first issue I would like to deal with is my broken front sway bar. Any ideas of how I could find such a part without ordering online and costing myself an arm and a leg?? Thanks in advance for any help!
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I have a 2014 Legacy, the winds were rough last night and on my way to work I ran over a tree branch and it bounced up and scratched the side of my car bad. What is the best thing to fix the scratches???? It's blue. -
Recently our 99 forester lost the horn before that the cruise stopped working and prior to that the air bag light came on. Could this be connected to a bad clock spring and if so how hard is it to change? -
Hello all: Been creeping the forums for awhile, Have tried several fixes but with some slight performance . First car is a subbie impreza outback sport, 2.2 with air. This is my daily work driver 100 miles a day interstate driving. I started when I was going to leave work i just started the car and it stuttered and started to stall. I then shot the pedal to it and it started running better on the drive home it developed a stutter or miss at 1500 and 2500 rpms. When it is running it is fine until it hits the revs listed then it stutters and as it passes the target area it clears and runs better. I went and to it to a local mechanic and he put it on a code reader and it was popping MAF. SO with that being said I started the dreadful sensr change. I changed all the sensors, IAC , crankshaft, camshaft, temp sending and relocated the anti-knock sensor to the back of the block. I also replaced the MAF and it still pops when it gets put on the tester. The Coil pack has been replaced and the ignitor also. New wires and plugs, I also sea foamed the engine so im leaning towards it jumped time or a Vac leak? I have also changed out the fuel filter and Marvel mystery oil the fuel. it is sporting 165k and has had a new belt, water pump and thermo within the last 30k.. doesn't run hot but has a low idle. the comp was cleared and reset but now I am just at a loss of where to go or direction. Any help would be greatly appreciated... I aslo checked all the grounds and cleaned them. -
I have an 87 gl-10 turbo that has recently sprung quite a large coolant leak (it come pouring right of the engine as I pot coolant into it). I have looked under the hood and underneath the car and I think that the coolant is leaking from the water pump. Is there anywhere else that it could be cause it to leak so much coolant and is there any advice that you could give me on how to fix it. I have basic automotive knowledge but if I could get some pointers and maybe simple instructions I know I can at least attempt to fix it.
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So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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I was just wondering if it be worth the time. I believe they only want $900 for it.
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Is it possible to build a turbo motor(120hp) on a stock 4wd transmission?
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I just bought a subaru with an EA71, finally got it running and now it backfires when i shift, rev, go uphil or turn it off. The problem has gotten so bad that my muffler blew apart. I'm sure this has been answered before but i would appreciate any help.
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my water pump came apart so while i was "in there" we decided to do the timing belts as they were past due. now it won't start it seems to be out of time.
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Hello everyone! I am a 1st time owner of a '08 Impreza 2.5i. I was very excited to buy this car after a snow related accident compromised my Mazda3 two weeks ago. Unfortunately, four days ago I bought from a very dishonest dealership that passed the car off in good condition and am afraid I'll be stuck with repair costs (P0420 code, elusive coolant leak, power steering pump going bad (whining sound), outside air temperature doesn't display, tire pressure light won't go off even when tires at proper pressure...).They're now telling me that there is no check engine light on (can they shut it off to avoid fixing it?). Hoping I can receive some advice about fixing these problems without spending a fortune on already expensive repairs. Thank you!
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I have a 97 Impreza L, the 2.2 (SOHC) , and I'm half way through the timing belt change and this is the first time I've attempted a repair like this. I've been using this guide as my main guide for the whole project: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html. I've also pulled information from other various forums (here) and have the service manual downloaded. I've run into the problem when aligning the passenger side camshaft to put the new belt on. I have the crank cam and the drivers side cam in the proper position. I was using a torque wrench to rotate the cams. When I started (slowly) rotating the passenger side cam, I got about a quarter of the way around fighting compression, and once I moved past the resistance it spun all the way around by itself because of the ratcheting effect on the torque wrench and settled pretty close to where I wanted it to be for the timing marks. The cam pulley has a little bit of play, I can rotate it about an inch left or right with no resistance and I can even line up the timing marks and put the belt where it needs to be. I didn't notice this play before, but I don't really remember checking. The pulley also seems to wiggle a little where as my driver side pulley does not. My concern is the play in the passenger side camshaft pulley. I'm afraid there may be other problems that I don't have the knowledge to see. When I was trying to rotate it and it took over and spun all the way around it was unnerving because of the sudden loud ratchet sound from my torque wrench. It wasn't something I was expecting or had seen anyone mention. Can I just align everything and start putting it all back together? Is that how a camshaft is supposed to rotate? -
1987 Subaru gl we have gone through the fuel system, new pump, new filters, rebuilt carb. It just won't keep running, like its not getting enough fuel. Won't rev up. Like its not getting enough gas. Help -
I picked up a Brat in Washington a few months ago for a song. It's a real fun car, but something is wrong. when i give it gas it shudders and seems as though its gulping. it doesnt like to get to highway speed and I have even noticed that taking my foot off the gas slightly makes it accelerate faster. its runs particularly rough in the cold and in the rain. thoughts?
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Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
I have a 1984 gl 4spd duel range. I have a clean 92 ej-22 sitting in the garage. A friend will sell me a harness and ecu for 50$. I still need a fuel pump, clutch,trans plate, re drilled flywheel, high pressure fuel line, front wheel bearings, fluids, and a cv axle. I have about $500 saved up. Can i get the swap done with this much money? i cant afford to have my car not be usable for more then a few weeks. Any input would be appreciated, thank you.
