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  1. if anybody has any tips on where I could find a cheap wrx, even for repair, I would appreciate it
  2. Hi Gang, I'm a first-time Subaru owner 'hopeful' and I am eager to know your opinion about purchasing a 2001 Forester, that has had some repairs and a lot of preventative maintenance. Thank you in advance! This is for sale by a self-proclaimed Subaru mechanic (not Subaru certified). He supposedly decided to specialize in Subarus since they represented a large percentage of what was on the road in his home state of Colorado. He buys them, fixes them, and sells them. He completed the work described below and explains that besides the cylinder heads and head gaskets, the rest was not necessary but was mainly preventative and done out of convenience since the engine was already out. He said170k miles is really not much for a Subaru that has already had the two Achilles heels replaced (headgaskets and timing belt - idler pulleys seized up on previous owner). Here's the work: Instead of just replacing the bent valves, he replaced the cylinder heads with ones from a 2003 with about 120k miles. Since the engine was out, he also did the following: Valve grinding/lapping. Valve adjustment. Had heads resurfaced, cleaned, and leak tested. Installed new fel pro MLS head gaskets Installed new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioner. Installed new fel pro valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets. While engine was out, he went over and resealed everything that could possibly leak down the road, including the notorious pcv baffle plate, and wrist pin cover. Oil change with Castrol GTX high milage, and a coolant flush. He took the car on multiple long test drives, as well as letting it sit idling with ac on for a couple hours. The car did not overheat, nor have any issues. Engine runs great, transmission shifts like it should. Brakes, and suspension are very smooth with no creaks, clunks, or any odd noises. Ac/heat work great, all power options work. Interior is in good shape. Has a few stains on the factory floor mats, but underneath carpet is almost like new. Exterior is in amazing shape for a 15 year old car. Paint is nearly perfect. No peeling, chips, or rust. He explains the car will need nothing mechanically for a very long time and will be super reliable for at least another 100000 miles. He builds a warranty on all the work he does into the price, $3600. Is there any reason *not* to purchase this car - can I get another 100k, you think, and is this really in great shape give the two 'achilles heels' have been addressed? Thank you!
  3. Hi I am having a look at my fuel system in my car as it seems to jerk around and stutter in low RPMs but runs fine at high RPMs, as I tinker I notice this black round thing, I assume it's for fuel, but it has no fuel in it. I have a 1993 GC8 Subaru Impreza wagon. Is this bad, and how do I fix it?
  4. Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks
  5. Hi everyone! I've got my heart on getting a Subaru for my first car, and I really like this legacy wagon. Its a single mom selling it and shes only asking $1200! She's really sweet and I like the car but it has issues. Here's a picture of the engine codes. Looks like some misfires going on for some reason and the transmission has issues. Looks like its low on ATF so it might just need a flush and fill. How much/how hard would it be to fix these things? Engine was rebuilt 15k she says, and it seems to run fine, asside from a misfire when I shift into reverse. Thanks everyone! Just let me know if you need more info! http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/DragonsOfDrakul/media/13819727_1096675567070854_1765315533_zpsxz7mibbs.jpg.html Here are the written codes if the URL doesn't work. PO, 500, 740 Speed sensor and TCC CKT electrical, 301, 303, 302, 304 (301-4 are misfire alerts in all four cylinders) , 400 and 743 EGR flow and TCC CKT electrical. Also it failed air injection? Smog was good. Also ABS light is on :/
  6. I have a 2011 STI Hatch with an Accessport, SF Intake, and Turbo Exhaust. It sat for about a month and a half while I was away and when I came back to drive it down the east coast, the battery was dead so I got a jump to start it and head south from Rhode Island. I was noticing some pretty awful performance and gas mileage over the 15 hour trip. I averaged about 16 mpg and was not getting the performance I had gotten before. I thought it might be from the fuel sitting so long, but I filled up the tank several times over the trip. My intake filter is in rough shape, so I plan on replacing it, but I wasn't sure if that was the problem. Should I uninstall and reinstall the Accessport since the battery died? Not sure where to go from here. I'm fairly new to the mods. Any help would be appreciated!
  7. Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock!
  8. Hello all! I'm new to the forum, and hoping to learn a bit about 1st generation Subaru Legacys. I currently own an '01 Outback L.L. Bean, and have begun to look into acquiring a second car. I'm looking for a car I can modify, and have some fun with. The 1st generation turbo Legacy is appealing. My questions are: *What are common problems I should be on the look for when buying? *Does anyone have a suggested price range? *Any maintenance that should be done as soon as I get the car? (Aside from basics - fluids, belts, etc.) *Any fun modifications anyone can recommend? I have some light mechanical experience with my L.L. Bean, and I want to learn more. *Any and all information/links/files are all appreciated. Thank you!
  9. Hey everyone. I have a 01 Legacy Outback sedan that I just replaced the entire exhaust. The header is Emusa brand with unequal lengths. The shop only put one cat on and a Flowmaster muffler. I believe the pipe width is either 2.25'' or 2.5". The car has an awesome deep sound until you get to the muffler, and then it RATTLES. I took it back to the shop to have the hangers checked and they told me that the rattle was from so much air flow and that a resonator would help with the rattle. The real reason I had the exhaust replaced was because the Check Engine light came on, and Advanced said that it was either a bad cat or O2 sensor. The muffler shop told me that my O2 sensors were fine, and like I said, they replaced one of the Cats and deleted the other BUT when I had them check the computer, they said that Subaru's require 2 cats. My check engine light came back on after the reset and now it is shaking like crazy at stops with the car in Drive. Three questions: 1. What will get the rattle out of my exhaust? 2. Does Subaru require 2 Cats or do I need to replace my O2s? 3. How do I fix the shaking at stops with the car in drive? I am including the link for the Header so that you all can see exactly what I bought. http://www.speedyracer.com/headers/exhaust-parts/headers/1999-2005-SUBARU-IMPREZA-25L-RS-SOHC-HEADER-STAINLESS I have not gotten to do a lot of maintenance to the car yet. (I got excited with Income Tax, I know.) I have replaced the following: Air filter Cabin air filter PCV valve Fuel Filter (Octane Booster also) Synthetic Oil Change
  10. I own a 2003 wrx and have a spare 2.0l block and want to use that for a build engine but was wondering where i could find some one to re sleeve/closes it. if even possible.
  11. Hello everybody! Just a little background on my situation. I stumbled across a 1990 legacy for 600 bucks. Guy said he put in new tranny and had the engine out to replace seals and gaskets. Well 380 miles into my trip I stop and find I've lost 3 quarts of oil. Holy cow! Get home and see the oil pan and passenger side of engine has a thick coat of oil along withe a few drips of oIL on the underside of the timing belt cover. What are your thoughts on what might be my issue? M valve cover gaskets are clean and I can see that they are new.
  12. So I just sunk $1300 into replacing the head gaskets on my 98 Legacy Outback Limited. Got the car back and everything was fine. Drove it up north over the weekend (~200 miles) and on the way back the engine lost power while cruising at 70MPH. It sort of lurched forward as if I were running out of gas (which I wasn't). I attempted to start the car after this and the AT Oil Temp light came on and flashed 16 times. I drove about another 1/4 mile before it died again. I got the car towed home and figured I'd take it to my mechanic the next day. Well I tried to start it and now I have nothing. No crank, nothing but a faint *click* sound when I turn the key. Anyone have this problem happen before? I can't think of anything that would cause my car to both die on the highway, trigger the AT Oil Temp light, AND no crank no start afterwards. But maybe the problems are unrelated. In either case, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do with it at this point. Any advice is appreciated.
  13. Bought my self an 82 DL Brat that has a 32/36 dgev or dgv weber on it. Starts right up even in cold weather. Idles great but when you're giving it gas it has 2 spots that it'll start to bog down before running smoothly and what not. I'm thinking it has the wrong jetting, but I haven't messed with a weber in a few years so I'm trying to get some outside advice.
  14. I want to stuff an ea81 pushrod motor into my 89 gl wagon that has an ea82, what would be the route to go? I also wanna run the spfi from the ea82 on the ea81. How much modding will i have to do to get the older motor to work in the newer car? thanx in advance
  15. 1998 Legacy GT ive posted before about a duty c solenoid, im still struggling with other matters. Ive got big dreams for this car but im falling short . The current problem im experiencing is i took the car to a specialized subie shop i was informed there was an egr code, which is in reference to the egr valve and like components, ive exhausted all i can think of to fix it, i replaced the main component checked all vacuum hoses i could see and cleard codes. The weirdness about it comes when i mention that the car has a 96 2.5 JDM engine in it so i have a theory in which new and old ecm dont match and are causing chaos.... PLEASE HELP
  16. I wish I could say I was making this up, but the neighbor's cows snuggled my car and broke my driver's side door. I can't open it from the outside, only the inside, and I can't find a name for the part that broke. It's a long, bent metal shaft (the cows didn't bend it, its supposed to be bent...I checked the passenger door to compare) with a plastic adjuster on the end that loosens and tightens to adjust the overall length of the part. The plastic piece is what they actually broke, because they snuggled the door hard enough to dent it, and it splayed the plastic adjuster, which is what makes contact with the mechanism that opens the door from the outside. I'll edit the post later to include a picture of the part. Hopefully, someone here knows what I'm talking about, because this is driving me crazy, and I'm sorely tempted to beat a cow into burger.
  17. What parts do I need to get to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 88 GL 4wd wagon? Any input would be helpful. Also is there a thread somewhere on how to drill hubs to the 4 x 114.3 pattern?
  18. I have a 1990 subaru legacy manual Trans and I've been having quite the idling issue. I just replaced the MAFS and she still won't idle what so ever. I'm planning on cleaning my throttle body and replacing the gasket to see if that helps. I've already replaced the top end throttle body vacuum line and it didn't do anything to help. I need some wisdom due to this being my first import please help me out
  19. I can't afford to get ripped off by a "dealership" or mechanic so I came to see if I can be a little more informed on whats going on to my 1996 legacy outback. (I love these cars, they are reliable and durable) Thanks so much in advance, and please correct me if I am wrong. So I have been on a road trip for a month or more and I am assuming due to regular mountain and heavy load usage (northern California sharp turning roads) I am now hearing clunking noises every time I steer left coming from the driver side front left tire area usually happens when going 45-65 mph, sometimes when going slower. I've also noticed its happening when I am decelerating or hitting the brakes. When it first hit me I was on the highway going 65 mph and my steering wheel started jerking like never before. I pulled over next town and did some internet research. I came up with a list of possible things it could be: Bad tire alignment steering rack axle ball joints cv shaft cv axle cv joints inner/outer tie rods wheel bearing lower ball joints​ ​I then went under the car and took some pictures, I am not too car savy but enough to do the work myself if it isn't re-building a motor. I need help figuring out what's causing the noise so I don't get ripped off if I have to go to the mechanic. From other forums and posts I have read it seems to be something I definitely need to take care of as soon as possible. The torn boot is in the front left driver side. I have noticed atf fluid leaks and sits in a puddle sometimes (can't be good?) Another angle Torn Steering rack & pinion boot or inner tie rod boot I believe? Another angle of the torn boot This is again the same torn boot, except this time in the photo the steering wheel is turned to the left as far as it can go (this is the way when it makes the clunking noise) It seems to be the Rack and pinion teeth that is being exposed? (This is where I get confused, is this the steering rack and pinion boot or is it the inner or outer tie rod boot? please help) How bad does it look? Again, another angle with the steering wheel turned to the left as far as it can go. CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) I believe, with the steering wheel turned to the left. Does it look bad? Again, another angle of the CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) same position. So, what I am thinking it has got to be either a bad CV axle or CV joint? Or a bad inner/outer tie rod and boot. Or a torn Steering Rack & Pinion boot with a bad overall steering rack (Although I hear its rare). I am low on funds and really need to just get down to the nitty gritty of the problem and fix it. What must be done? I need your advice, tips and help. Thank you!
  20. I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful.
  21. Hey guys I need some help. I used to have a 1980 brat but this seems like a slightly different ea71. So, i bought it and it has been pretty bad since I bought it. the previous owner replaced the cap and rotor as well as the ignition coil. I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump (it was spraying gas everywhere), sprayed liberal amounts of carb cleaner and seafoam to clean carb out (it was quite dirty), replaced altenator (it died resulting in voltage regulator failure), Volatage regulator, and a couple of fuses that were blown or looked warped. I have a rebuild kit for the carb and I think this is what i need to do to get it to run right. I'm currently stuck because I don't have enough power to reach 30mph or go up the pass I need to. It smells rich and backfires. Looks like one of the jets isn't working? I am also planning on replacing wires and plugs. I have a spare carb off my old 80, but it need help too but at least it ran? Should I just swap it, would my kit work on rebuilding it and swapping? I can't seem to find a year specific diagram. This has the round airbox rather than the tire forming ones. Any help would be amazing thank you.
  22. My legacy brighton doesn't have a tachometer. So I went to pick and pull and pulled a cluster out from another vehicle with a tachometer. I installed it and everything seemed to go okay until I drove home and had no speedometer. So I pulled my old speedometer out (thinking it was a loose connection in the back) and switched it with my new one. The speedo worked but now the tach did not. I'm wondering what the problem is with the wiring? Do I need to wire the tach through the speedo? Or should I try putting the tach in my old cluster?
  23. Hello. thanks for stopping by. First I have spent a good hour searching and digging before I posted this thread."pulse" and other terms I could think of brought up a lot of fuel system stuff but not what I feel is going, IE please hold your tongue for " do your own research" type replies. We are a community after all :0D The real thread starts here: 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 AWD automatic trans. I experience a pulse, " whoosh, whoosh whoosh" sound and feeling that picks up and slows down as the vehicle's speed does ( not engine speed, but vehicle speed) It felt to me like it was coming from the front. Things I have done / checked: 1. New tires and balanced ( needed them anyways did not fix issue) 2. checked boots at wheels , Front + back, No rips I could see 3. Checked boots at trans ( front axles ) no visible rips Unrelated recent maintenance since : oil chance fuel filter replaced Air filter service ( K & N type) Any thoughts/ Questions/ links / other threads related would be greatly appreciated
  24. Hi, First time posting but I'm hoping you guys can help. I've got a 96 Impreza Outback with the EJ22 and 90,000 miles (an old grandma car). The car will seemingly start and run fine for a while but will start to sputter, lose power and eventually stall. I have to then have the car sit for about 5-10 minutes before I'm able to get it running again. The difficult thing about this is that it is fairly random. Yesterday I drove 10 miles without issue. Got in the car again and made it about 300 yards before it stalled on me (fortunately I was able to make it to a parking lot). After about 5 minutes I started it back up and it was fine the rest of the day, another 40 miles. I live in the city so it doesn't see much highway mileage. Given the randomness I don't like the idea of driving down a highway with no shoulder. The dash lights do not light during the sputtering. Things I've replaced: -fuel filter -fuel pump -valve cover gasket (this definitely seemed to be leaking as one of the covers had oil all over it) -plugs (wires and plugs also were replaced about a year ago) I've already tried taking it to a mechanic but of course it was running fine for him and not exhibiting any symptoms. I next tried a dealership but they said it'd be about $500 just to diagnose/look into it because it's so hard to reproduce. I'm kind of running out of options. I really don't know how to troubleshoot cars too well. Any ideas on where to look next? How can I determine if this is an electrical/ignition issue vs fuel system, etc? Thanks!
  25. I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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