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Found 29 results

  1. So i bought this car last weekend and there were no problems with it. it sat for a few days while it waited to get registered. I drove it a little the day it got registered and the next day it started having problems. It drives great with 172,xxx miles on it but it has a really slow rough idle. it idles between 200 and 250 rpm and the interior and dash lights flicker and it shakes. it has stalled out twice at red lights but i had no problem starting it up again. PLEASE HELP. I have no idea whats wrong with it but I have very little money to spend on fixing it. All input is appreciated im feeling like this right now.
  2. Not sure if anyone here remembers when I last posted about my cold idle issue. Needless to say, it hasn't been fixed. I've been able to tolerate it the past few months, but now it's getting ridiculous. I've started taking auto tech classes, and my class starts at 7 am, so I have to deal with it every morning.... Please read everything carefully. Car is my '90 Loyale, EA82 N/A. The problem I have is when the car is cold, it doesn't want to idle. I start it up and have to rev it at 2000-3000 RPM for ~5 minutes before I can get it to idle at 500 or so. It's good enough to get going, so I leave. However, EVERY time I push in the clutch (or put it in neutral), the RPMs fall so fast that the engine stalls. When changing gears, this isn't a problem. But if I'm coming to a stop, I must heel-toe and feather the gas to keep it from stalling. Then, randomly, it'll idle normally. Just like if someone flipped a switch, it'll idle fine. It used to take 5 minutes or so before this happened, but now it takes up to 30 minutes!!! My school is about 30 minutes away, and sometimes I can go most of the trip there before it idles normally. Funny thing is, if I've been driving for 10 minutes or so, turn off the car, then turn it back on, it'll idle fine. For example, if I stop and get gas before school, it'll idle normally when I start it back up. The few minutes it takes to fill the tank is enough for the car to decide to idle. I know what you're thinking, it's the IACV or the CTS. I've replaced the CTS twice and the IACV twice. I've cleaned the IACV a few times, but it didn't help. The only part I've noticed that had a difference was the water pump. I swapped my longblock and it came with a new water pump on it. That water pump failed in 400 miles, but during that time, I never had an idle problem. I put my old water pump on and I soon saw the idle issue again. I've never heard of a water pump causing an idle issue, have you? Here are some of the things I've noticed: The issue doesn't seem to be related to weather much. It'll have more problems idling during the winter, but I still notice it during the summer. The issue doesn't seem to be related to how long the car has been sitting. I mean, if it's only been sitting for less than 3 hours, then it'll probably idle. But I've had it idle fine after sitting for 8 hours, and I've had it not idle at all after sitting for 4 hours. The issue doesn't seem to be related to coolant temperature. The temp gauge will reach it's normal range in a few minutes, but as stated before, sometimes it'll take 30 minutes before the car will idle. However, I believe once the temp gauge reads normal, I can turn the car off, sit for a minute, turn it back on, and it'll idle fine. In the video posted below, I took off the IACV hose with the engine running. Made no difference. Disconnected the CTS. No difference. Disconnected the IACV (electrically). No difference. I'll try the tests again with the engine warm, if that's when I'm supposed to do it. My CEL is on, but I believe it's for the purge and EGR solenoids, if I remember correctly. Been a while since I've checked; I'll check again. Anyways, any ideas? Please feel free to ask questions to help with diagnosis. Feel free to tell me any tests to do, and I'll do them (assuming I have the tools for it). When I posted this before, someone stated something about testing a pin on the connector on the ECU. I never got confirmation on what pin and what numbers I should be getting. I'm just kinda stumped as to what it could be, especially since the two most probable causes are not likely to be the problem. My gut feeling says it's an electrical problem, but I don't know where exactly to start with that. I really want to test and diagnose this, rather than doing the "shotgun" method to fixing it: throwing parts at the car hoping one will fix it. Here is the video that kinda shows the cold start. Before you say anything, the oil pressure gauge reads low; always has. And I did adjust my belts after the video. http://youtu.be/KwjWYgybeLc
  3. I bought a 99 obs about three months ago and its been giving me some funny problems. the cars got 260k miles and im looking to get another 100k at least. Luckily its the 2.2l but when it warms up it feels like it wants to stall at idle. drives great and idles fine at first, but after sitting for maybe 7 seconds the rpms drop from about 500 to between 250 and 300. The car and engine shake really bad and it sounds like its running on two cylinders. I recently replaced the spark plugs with bosch platinums but didnt happen to check the gapping. also the wires were changed at about 160k miles but they are not oem. checked all the hoses I could see and didnt find any holes or cracks and just adjusted my throttle cables which fixed my cruise control issue but still no luck on this darn idle. any pointers would be great! also i dont know if it could be related but I put a cai on it and didnt want to run at all. Maybe faulty MAF sensor?
  4. Hello all, So as of a few weeks ago, the idle on my '86 Brat dropped so low (to less than 100) that she'd stall after a couple of seconds at idle. However, when driving, performance is normal. I Imagine I'm going to have to take a look at the carb, there are various leaks, and I'm sure it's got a lot of gunk stuck in emulsion tubes...etc.. While I've never rebuilt / cleaned out a carb before, I know someone who's very good at it, and that will be helping me. Until then though, did some experimentation and developed a little quick fix that I'm not quite sure about being legit, but the result is an idle of about 1000. Here's what I did: In the picture above, noticed that there's a vacuum hose attached to some kind of thing-a-majiger (circled) that when the car is on, opens the throttle a bit. To get the car to idle again, basically fooled around with this, so that it opens the throttle more. Ended up moving the washer (orange arrow) to the other side of the bracket holding it and loosening the nut to shorten the arm that pulls on the throttle. Now it idles at about 1000. So my questions are: ... what is this thing? ...Is it part of the idle control? It was just a wild guess to adjust it like that. ...Is it safe for the engine to do this until I'm able to clean out the carb? ...and are there any other reasons why that would be causing her not to idle, but perform fairly well when driving? Thanks guys!