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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
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Can someone please explain the function/importance of the small plastic black box mounted on the left kick panel area, it is accessed behind the fuse panel and has a wide white connector with 14 wires (if I counted right). I picked up a DL 4WD wagon, SPFI, manufactured in 01/88. It dosen't run (yet). And there is a yellow wire w/ white stripe fished up through the top left portion of the firewall. Looks like they had it connected to something in the engine bay. Ground? Power? Anyways would like to know if it has anything to do with why the car currently isn't running. I believe it's a spark/electrical issue. Belts are good. Tried starting fluid. And have swapped out both the disty and coil from a running Loyale. Only trouble code is 21 (temp sensor circiut). Sorry no pics of the box It' hard to see in there! The wire in question (Ylw/wht) originates from this black box, so why was it brought into the bay?
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Hoping someone has had a similar issue or someone could give some direction for this noob... I have a 2003 Forester XS 2.5, 140xxx km (87000 miles). Timing belt, heads and cover gaskets done @ 139xxx km with no CELs. Especially when the car is warm, it will start extremely rough. Heavy knocking, car shuttering and eventually does not fire (either I stop trying for fear of the engine ripping right off the engine mounts or it just won't start). After two or three miserably failed attempts at starting, she eventually starts and runs with no issues other than slightly worse gas mileage than before this problem started. So... To fix this issue I first started with this website and found a couple suggestions - so I changed spark wires and had the ignition coil tested. Even tried replacing the IC to see if it changed anything. It did not. Next step was take it to a local shop. They tested fuel pressure, air intake and filter...no luck. So, reluctantly, I took it to the local Subaru dealer. My car has been there for over a month now and still NO idea what is wrong with it. They have checked "everything" starting with the starter to wiring, crank and cam sensors, checked whatever the name of the part the the cam sensor reads, performed exorcisms, washed it with holy water.... Now they are currently replacing the computer. To be fair, the mechanics have been great with me, but I'm still BAFFLED how I can spend $1000 on a trained, licensed Subaru mechanic and they still have NO idea what is going on. They know what ISN'T causing the issue, but that doesn't help me. So, a couple questions. Any advice or pointers toward what this could be are so welcomed and much appreciated. I'm happy to provide any info you need to try to get a better picture of what's going on. Also, I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to fight a repair bill that, in the end, hasn't told me anything at all. Should a dealer be pressured into helping with this bill? Again - they have been very fair trying to save me as much money as possible, but $1000 is $1000. Thanks so much everyone! -
Car Information: 1997 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan, 2.5L DOHC Hi there, Im hoping that someone may be able to tell me why the ignition coils I had delivered for my car are not the correct ones, I've searched and searched and every coil-pack I come across is depicted as the ones I received. However the stock pack I'm attempting to replace Is a much smaller pack: Diamond F-560. The new pack will not bolt and does not possess the same connecting pin. My engine has not been swapped, I know it is a 2.5L EJ25 as I had the timing belt done about a year ago. I've been reading that my year was a "transition" year and that I may have a certain type of pack. Does anyone know about this? I'm really looking forward to continuing my troubleshooting for a misfire and I was hoping this might have been the fix. Thanks in advance for the time! -
Hello all!! First let me say this is by far the most impressive Subaru discussion site I've found! Trust me, I've spent countless hours searching for an answer to my puzzle. My problem, 93 legacy non turbo. I noticed a while back while driving at steady highway speed suddenly the car would feel almost as if it were running out of gas. It was to the point where I could push the pedal to the floor and nothing would happen. I would pull off the road thinking I needed to call the hook as the engine dies. However, it would start right back up and back on the road I was! This happened mabye 5 times over a period of probably a year so I didnt put all that much thought into it. It has 218000 on it so if it has a couple quarks so be it I thought. However it seems it recent months that it has slowly lost more and more power, whether this is a related issue I can't say with full certainty at this time. It has now come to the point that it will start and idle but has NO power even out of gear. The car will not move until the engine has warmed for 15 to 20 mins. Even after that I still wont drive it in heavy traffic. It is just too sluggish. Fuel eco is significantly lowered also (from about 23mpg to mabye 15 or 16mpg.) The list of things I have done: The basics plugs, wires, fuel and air filters Engine coolant temp sensor (twice) also this significantly improved the ease of starting but none of the driveability Verified fuel pressure Verified vacuum line condition and the breather condition Verified mass air sensor with a known good unit Timing belt complete kit installed within 20,000 miles so it shouldnt be out of time My best bet I have found was in these discussions where someone had traced poor running and random loosing power completly to the JITECO 25229 AA001 ignition relay. I was going to try this but locating one has been a joke. Also I read where a user had cross referenced to another part # available at Advance but I have been unable to locate that either. Does anyone know of an availble new direct fit replacement? Also I'm open to any other suggestions of my issue. I'm sure mine isnt the only one acting up. Just a side note, while I will post updates, I dont get to mess with the car very often. I left it at a family members house when I moved to Missouri as I had 5 cars when I moved from Ohio. Getting anything done with vehicles as far as titling and registering in this state is a joke and an embarrassment. I left it there for that reason and so that when the wife and I drive back to Ohio, we each have something to drive. My folks drive it once or twice a week just to keep it from sitting. So I will be somewhat slow to be able it say it is fixed or not. I go back every month or two. Thank you in advance! -
A few days ago, all of a sudden, I noticed a very low (400-600 rpm), shaky idling issue coupled with terrible gas mileage... Today it started stalling at every stop unless I give it gas. I believe cylinders 2 and 4 are missing, though it's hard to tell because the idle is constantly fluctuating and randomly stalling. When I get into gear the engine runs fine (still crappy MPG) and when the choke is on it runs fine. I have new Bosch spark plugs and NGK wires replaced less than 200 miles ago. New fuel filter. Cleaned the crap out of the carb. I pulled the plugs and they look normal. Wires are certainly carrying a charge. No random arcs. No visible crack in distributer cap, terminals look fine. Pretty sure there is no vacuum leak but I'm about to do a carburetor cleaner spray check. Head gaskets look fine, no coolant leak or anything. Could this be a problem with the ignition coil pack? I planned on picking up a better one anyways, hopefully tomorrow. Could this be a thermostat issue? I flushed the radiator not long ago, I'm sure the current thermostat is 166,000 miles old. PCV valve maybe? What other checks/cleaning should I do before I go on a random part-buying rampage with money I don't have?? I certainly won't be driving this thing until I figure it out. Thanks -
so i recently bought a 88 gl wagon with 128XXX on it. The day after i bought it i popped a relay when i went to start it, this was after a short drive across town. i had no idea what was wrong but i narrowed it down to ignition wiring problem. took it to a shop that was familiar with Subaru's and owned one himself, but it still took him 2 week to figure out it was my starter, distributor, just a popped relay. the problem was finding the relay because it was moved from is original spot and put up in the dash. now recently i have been dealing with a starter that has been going out but only like 2 times a week, so i would hit it and it would start. (i know this doesnt last for ever) tonight i did the same thing, but instead of starting. i went to turn the key to find that it has happened again to my car. my stereo works, but no noise when i turn the key, no lights, no dom lamp because its on the same relay. im not a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but im also not super great with them. i joined here cuz i love my wagon its a great car and i need it asap for the snow thats dumping in my local mountains. any ideas what my problem is anyone?!?!?
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Hello All, I have an 84 brat turbo, which the car dies after driving, very intermittent, A quick Key off, on will get it going again. it idles for a few minutes then just shuts off. I replaced the computer, mass air flow, Distributor. I recently replaced the transmission. the car sat for a few months with the key accidentally left on (battery dead) after the automatic tranny swap, it had 2 bad injector coils. two injectors replaced, it would run, but had a bad miss at various rpms. so I ordered a remanufactured computer ecu. this did not fix it I then unplugged the mass air flow. it ran better, but not right, so I bought a remanufactured MAF. this made it a little better, I then replaced the entire distributor, no change. I unhooked the knock sensor unit, unplugged the altitude sensor, etc eliminated every electronic component I could still intermittent acts up. It does this with the anti knock control unit unplugged.(car will run without it) It idles better with the Mass Air flow unit unplugged as well. I measured all wiring from engine side of wire harness to the ECU, nothing measures bad. UGGGG!!! at this point. Tomorrow I plan on replacing the coil, and fuel pump. seems to act up when I hit a bump on a right hand turn. also, with headlights off it runs better. Im thinking either the fuel pump is getting knocked and acts up, Coil may be getting hot and drawing more current, or alternator is acting up when hot. Car runs with battery terminals unhooked, so I know alternator is charging. I will ultimately fix it and post my findings. I still love my little money pit.....BTW also has a new turbo....wheel bearings, got a small fortune in it.... I named it Johnny Cash..... one piece at a time....only wish it didn't cost me a dime... Bill https://www.facebook.com/bill.sherman.58
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My Subaru impreza outback has started taking around ten-15 trys to start, i turn the key and nothing happens i can hear a click and the dash light come on but the car doesnt turn over. Sometimes it starts after just 1 try and sometimes it starts after 2-more, it happens everytime i go to start it even after its been runing and is warmed up. i was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem; i am pretty sure it isnt the starter or battary since both are new. -
Hello , so I've been only getting like 20 mpg if I drive really nice (less if I'm driving normal) in my 1986 4wd GL Weberized wagon. I've done the usual tune up stuff (plugs , cap , rotor , wires, fuel filter , cleaned air filter) The weber is running the recommended tuning I got from loyale27turbo's guide. I figured we were both at similar elevations so it seemed close enough. I've also recently replaced the (roaring) bad front wheel bearings it had , with some sweet sealed ones. I run normal sized tires at right below their max psi. Everything has fresh oil. All the front cv joints have been regreased and booted in the last 2 months. I've also replaced the timing belts (they're spot on) and changed the oil pump gasket. (not that it helped the ticking at idle , I think those cam tower o rings are bad) Ignition timing is set at like 16 degrees btdc. Battery voltage reads in the 14's with the car running Anyhow here's the actual issue , so someone gave me the idea to check the voltage at my coil. It's only 12.7v with the engine running around 1200 rpm and goes progressively down with more rpm. It also heads down with whatever accessories I turn on (heater fan , headlights , turn signal , etc) to a low of 12 volts at 2000 rpm. I bet it even heads lower with an actual load on the engine and not just revving in place. Also I dunno if this is related but my voltmeter jumps with the turn signal. Any ideas? I mean I thought about doing a relay set up to get full voltage to the coil (using the same logic as the headlight relay set up. Bypassing all the various connectors and ignition switch that add resistance and rob voltage)
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I recently bought a 96 legacy sedan with a 2.2L auto. when I bought it, cylinder 4 was cracked. so I got a used short block and pieced a new motor together a few weeks ago. upon installation I replaced plugs, wires, fuel filter, p.c.v, timing belt etc. it ran great till last Friday. I went out to go to work and it wouldn't start. I pulled the hose off the fuel filter to make sure it was getting fuel, and nothing. so I put a new fuel pump in it, still nothing. after playing around under the dash trying to locate the fuel pump relay, it started. the old relay was so hot that it almost burned my hand. so I put a new relay in and it ran great again. today I pulled into the gas station for a second (didn't get fuel) came back out and wouldn't start. finally got it to fire and was running rough. so I hooked my computer to it and found cylinder 1 and 2 are misfiring. if I attempted to give it gas, it would only make it worse and then die again. now I cant even get it to start. any ideas? maybe something small that I am missing here but any help would be appreciated. thanks Adam -
Long time no post. Been trying to get my Brat registered again. Anyway. I was putting in a new coil today and had a question on the wires. I know that black wire w/ white stripe = positive, and that yellow = negative. However I've got 2 wires leftover that I'm not quite sure of. Picture here: http://chattypics.com/files/ignitioncoil_ronoigylbk.jpg So here's how I have it hooked up right now. I just want to see if what I've done is correct. Specifically wire #1 and #6. Wire 1 - Negative. The wire is solid black and attached to the little metal thing with the screw to the left of the ignition coil. It goes to a ground on the engine block so I assumed negative. Wire 2 - Negative. Yellow wire Wire 3 - Positive. Black w/ white stripe Wire 4 - Positive. Black w/ white stripe Wire 5 - Negative. Yellow wire. Wire 6 - Positive. Yellow wire, but goes to carb. Car would turn over but never start with this unhooked, or with this hooked to negative. Once I hooked to positive car starts fine. Once again looking for input as to what I've done is correct, specifically #1 and #6. Thanks!
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So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
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I've been starting my '00 Legacy with just the ignition switch for the last few days after having it stolen and I'm just about to put in a new ignition. I'm a bit confused as to what the wires coming from the ignition barrel itself are for and where they plug in. Is one the steering lock maybe? Can someone help me out? Cheers!
