Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
-
So I wanna lift my legacy, but as a high school student in search of a job, I want to get OK gas mileage. I was thinking a 4in lift would be best, perhaps a 6. With a 4in lift, what kind I mpg am I looking at, same with a 6? My definition of OK is greater than 15mpg. I'm assuming tires play a big role in it as well. I was thinking some 28's... -
Hey all, Here is me and my wife's new family hauler. Now my xterra can finally just be for work. Loving the mpg on the Subaru. We did some minor aesthetic work. Let me know what you guys and gals think! -
I'm looking for a used car, that I can mod and I found this. What do you guys think about moding this car? And what's your overall opinion of it?
-
Hi all, I've been searching this morning on information regarding the charcoal canister. Anything that I've come across dealing with this, only pertains to 2.2-2.5 swaps.. The Legacy donor vehicle had hit a deer, so the passenger fender/radiator/light/charcoal canister were destroyed. I have the EJ in the Loyale now, and I'm wondering how to correctly hook up the Loyale's canister to the EJ motor. Is this possible? I believe I connected the two (available) EJ lines correctly. But there is the third line off of the cannister that I'm not sure where to hook up. It says VC I believe. My next question is about hooking up an EA temp sender unit, and a fan relay together... I will be hooking up two 10" fans to my brand new EA82 single row radiator. It is identical to the old one that I pulled out. There is a port on the side, that I believe I can put in some type of temperature sensor in... On to the subject... I will be using the EA temp sender so that I can keep the gauge working. I also will be using a 30amp relay/circuit/switch system to operate my fans. I do not want to make a sleeve for the sender, then to put it in-line with the upper radiator hose. My idea is to make a T-adapter that can be used in that radiator port. Any reservations? I was thinking of getting a small length (maybe 1/2" long) of threaded pipe (to the size of the hole..) then attaching that to a T of some sort that I can put in the temp sender for the gauge, and one for the fan sensor... That might not make any sense, my brain is firing sparatically from all the coffee... This is similar to what I'll be using for the fan relay... Any thoughts would be great! Thanks, Greg -
So today I picked up this for 1500$ Its a 90' Legacy Wagon with 161k. Full time 4wd. Interior is in "like new" condition. Exterior is in fairly good condition, a few scratches and dings. The only sad thing is...its an automatic My goals for this project are as follows: Custom Bumper Custom Roof Rack 2in Strut Lift Bigger Tires (if anyone could help with sizes that would be awesome!) Make it last till I'm 18 And last but not least. Get it as muddy as possible
-
Hello again. I've had a problem that has slowly been developing with my '94 Legacy. The driver side door is becoming difficult to open with the interior handle, however it opens easily with the outside handle, so I know that the latch isn't gummed up or binding. I'm thinking that there must be a linkage that is worn or stretched, and the interior handle hits its limit stop before fully releasing the latch. (That's just my theory...) Has anyone had this happen before? Is it difficult or are there any guides on how to take the door panel off to check this out? Thanks. -
The question says it all. I was having alternator problems, so I got a new one. It simultaneously killed my battery, so I got a new one, too. But my e-brake and battery lights are on and blink simultaneously from time to time, even going off for periods of time. I'm a complete n00b to the forum, but even though I could find people with the light problem, nobody has had the issue after just replacing the alternator and battery as far as I could tell. I have no issues starting the car, dimming lights, etc, like I did when the alternator went bad before. Any hints or tips? Thanks guys! -
Engine starts and idles fine but bogs out and dies at 1500 RPM. I pulled the timing belt covers off to check the timing marks on the cams and it "looks" like it's still right. Swapped out the cam sensor to see if that was the problem but no change. When idling the left cam pulley looks like it might be wobbling slightly but could be an optical illusion. I checked the pulley to see if there was any play but it was solid. Any ideas? -
So, the dealer says $450 to change all the belts, including the timing belt. This other guy at different shop tells me that he guarantees me that the water pump would need to be changed, too (and a few other things he mentioned that I can't recall) for $1200. I'm at about 110K miles on this car, it seems to be running fine. Nobody has looked at it yet, I'm just shopping around for estimates because I know it's about time for a timing belt. I got a new radiator less than a year ago. Anyway, any advice? I'd appreciate it! -
So I have decided rather than putting strut lift blocks on my 1990 legacy to get a cheap 2in lift, I would rather switch out struts from an outback or Forrester. How much lift am I looking for each? What about camber issues?
-
So today I picked up this for 1500$ Its a 90' Legacy Wagon with 161k. Full time 4wd. Interior is in "like new" condition. Exterior is in fairly good condition, a few scratches and dings. The only sad thing is...its an automatic My goals for this project are as follows: Custom Bumper Custom Roof Rack 2in Strut Lift Bigger Tires (if anyone could help with sizes that would be awesome!) Make it last till I'm 18 And last but not least. Get it as muddy as possible
-
I have a 2000 Outback with just about every option available at the time that is without an engine that is strictly a parts vehicle that I picked up for cheap, and I have a 2001 Legacy L sedan as a daily driver. What I was wondering is that could I take everything off the Outback and put it on my Legacy sedan? Now I know Subaru's are good with running all the wiring and provisions for the options even though they did not come with the car so that all you need is the component, the switch and the fuse or relay. But I would just like to confirm this with some things such as the rear view mirror with the built in compass the heated side view mirrors the AM/FM/tape/6 CD changer/and weather band radio the left and right upper door tweeter speakers Another question is that I would also like to lift my legacy with the outback struts. What all would I need to swap to do this? obviously the struts, but also I heard of swapping the rear control arms off the Outback on to whatever you are putting the on for camber and after that I really don't know. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks, Luke
-
Last June, I wrote up this thread on a dry-run wheel bearing replacement that ultimately ended up being a real wheel bearing replacement. That was for the driver side front wheel bearing on a 1996 Legacy L sedan. Well, on the same day that the car crossed over 200,000 miles on the odometer, it provided a new challenge. It started with an ABS light coming on along with some front end vibration at highway speeds. This didn't seem like that big of a deal until the next morning when the passenger side wheel started to make horrible grinding noises. I decided I should jack up the car and see what was going on.....I had already mentally prepared myself that a wheel bearing replacement was imminent. Both front bearings had been done by a shop that I STILL regret taking it to. The axle nut fell on the ground as I took the wheel cover off the car. Further removal of the knuckle/hub assembly revealed what I already knew was the case......the bearing had been destroyed and the hub was simply banging around inside the knuckle housing. It was so floppy that the brake rotor was grinding on the brake caliper bracket - rotor is toast. The ABS light came on because the tolerance of the ABS tone ring on the hub was so out of whack from the sensor. So off to the junkyard in the morning. The first potential donor car did not have ABS - of course I only noticed that AFTER spending 20 minutes getting the rusted mess off the car. Note in the photo below that the hub does not have the ABS tone ring. The second car (shown below) was the correct match with the added bonus only rust belt operation can provide. Unfortunately after pulling the CV out, I found that this wheel hub was totally destroyed. I did manage to pick up a new-ish brake rotor since that needs replacing anyway. The third car was an older 1994 Legacy wagon. This turned out to have a good knuckle/hub assembly and was the one that came home with me (after two hours of "practicing" removing wheel knuckles from 3 different cars at the junkyard). The donor knuckle/hub assembly has a very different brake dust shield, but the parts are identical between the 94 and the 96. (back to 92 as demonstrated on the driver side bearing change). I drove out the hub from the backside with a socket and a hammer - no slide hammer this time. It cleaned up pretty nicely and I lightly polished the hub shaft. And I used an air chisel to drive the outside inner race from the hub using the same technique as last time. I have a new bearing, but I still need seals from the Subaru dealer. The O'reily's and Carquests around here keep giving the wrong inner seal - the correct seal has a taller lip than they provide. Next up, cleaning up the parts and pressing out the bearing race from the knuckle with the Harbor Freight puller kit #66829. -
I've got the transmission out of my legacy and it turns out it was an impreza trans. The hoses on the top are in a mount where they just hang and aren't connected. The new one they are, I was wondering which is correct and why it matters Picture of the new one http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8498723024 Picture of the old http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8498720272
-
Hey folks! I'm trying to get my 300$ wagon on the road to be my new daily so I can work on my brat. But we burned up the transmission hauling it home when I got it. It only needed a jump when we got it home for the motor to start and the motor sounds SOLID! But now it only shifts between 1st and 2nd gear. Here's where the good news starts. My buddy swapped a SVX transmission which had previously been swapped with a legacy transmission. So we have one slipping trans, but with a working pump. He had ordered a low mile trans, and it had a bad pump so he got another low miles one and left the first here. So we have a second transmission with low miles but a bad pump. I took the two to a transmission shop and had them swap the pumps. And rebuild the torque converters. And instead of 1200$ for a rebuild I'm walking out with a (hopefully) working tranny for just $375. My only question is, does anyone have any tips to help me out with the swap? It's going to be my first time installing a transmission myself and I'm hoping to get it done in a single day. -
Are universal O2 sensors ok to use? I'm not worried about the extra wiring work involved when using a Bosch universal O2 sensor, I just wanna know that it's not gonna cause problems with the pcm or fuel trim system. -
Hi there... I need new tires for my wife's Subaru. I have a hole in the right rear tire on the outer sidewall. It's plugged for now, but I guess I need 4 new tires soon. The tires on there now are 215/45z417. The sticker inside the door says these are the stock size tires, but I was hoping I could get away with a higher profile tire without causing problems with the vehicle. So, what do you think? Am I best staying with the stock size, or could I go higher without problems? -Neanderthal P.
