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Showing results for tags 'loyale'.
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Calling A/C techs... I had a theory about the problem, but I'd like to confer before proceeding. A/C system was working last 2 years, but now it only cycles for ~10 seconds, then shuts off until I cycle the A/C (or defrost) off/on. Does this every time, no matter how long I wait between A/C cycles. Belts are tight, no clutch slippage (that I can observe) and the engine DOES idle up when running (pulser is gapped to spec) Hooked up the R-12 gauge and there were the readings: Engine at EOT, system off: Low side: ~50 psi HIgh side: 55 psi System cycling: Low: drops to ~0 psi quickly High: raises to ~75-85 and holds After cycle: Low: raises to ~55-60 psi High: drops to ~60 psi I added less than 5oz of R12, but same result, only the high side raises slightly, but the low raises when the system is not cycling. Before I add (or maybe waste if the receiver/drier needs replaced) any more, I just wanted to confirm that it just might be low on R12 and the trinary switch is deactiviating due to low pressure.
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Does anyone know where an RX front lip can be obtained? or a "replica"/something aftermarket? I know there are plenty of DIY lips for imprezas and legacies, but how about for an ea82? pics?
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New here. Trying to get my 94 Loyale up and running again. It is firing on only 3 cylinders and my mechanic has run through most everything now thinking it is the distributor. Just wondering how common a bad distributor is on these and if that doesn't fix it andybody got any other ideas? Much appreciated.
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My 1992 3 speed automatic Loyale which i recently acquired makes whitish clear smoke in the engine compartment after driving for a while. It runs great and has no noticeable leaks but still smokes for about 5 minutes after i park it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Zach
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Hello USMB, Recently been thinking of purchasing an older Loyale wagon... I've owned 2 subarus, a 2001 that I sold after the HG went and a 98 that I sold after the timing belt exploded on me. My current vehicle is a 95 tacoma and while I love the 4wd capability, it's been expensive to fix and i'm growing a bit tired of low mpg's. I'm planning on hitting the road in a couple months for a long road trip across the western states and would like to sell the truck and pick up a wagon with decent offroad/snow capabilities and good mpg's (25-30mpg). I figured that for the selling price of my truck, I could pick up a loyale for a grand or so and throw a bit of cash at it to fix gaskets and other major components that need it, plus be able to put some back in the bank account. My question is this... A lot of the loyales i've seen for sale have around 220k on them. Do you think it's worth it to wait for something that has mid 100k's on it or just purchase the vehicle with a bit higher mileage that has already had some major things replaced on it? This thing definitely needs to be dependable since I'll be spending a good deal of time in the middle of nowhere in the desert southwest... Thanks!
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hi Im an newbie to the forum that is need of a mechanic to work on my subaru loyale 1990. I think i have a cam shaft oil leak and im thinking of replacing my ERG solenoid myself. thank you in head of time for all your help michael -
So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker -
My 1993 California Loyale passed smog for every test except it was 3pts high on the low-speed hc test. I have an SPFI, 5speed, with 180k miles on the car. I noticed the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has zero vacuum at idle and when I rev the engine! I blew some air into the passage and it only exits from a port ABOVE the throttle plate! According to theory, it's supposed to get manifold vacuum below the throttle plate so it can actuate at idle to reduce fuel. So why is it ported to above the throttle plate at atmospheric? What's funny is I don't have any idling or other problems associated with a faulty fuel regulator, yet it appears it's not doing anything. The shop manual shows the SPFI engine has the port above the throttle plate too. However, it's below the throttle plate for the MPFI engine! Anybody have an explanation for such a strange setup? Is the regulator in the SPFI just a 'fuelish' invention in this case?
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Guess I'm just lazy and don't feel like looking around here for the answer. I've heard of using forester or legacy struts on a loyale for lifting. Can anyone tell me about doing this? Is there any camber issue? And I'm think 2" lift in the rear. Suggestions for that would be great.
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Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)
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HEy all, I was trying to fins out is it possible to entirely swap out the ea82 engine and replace it with ANYTHING, other than an old model engine. Price is whatever, meaning if the Trans has to be new too, thats cool i just want to know about size and a secure safe fit. Thanks. -
HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
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Hey everyone, I've got my '92 Loyale Wagon up and going and I want to start moding it for off-road. The only thing is, I can't find places or websites to get exactly what I want. So I'm on here asking for some help. LOL. Here is a small list of what I'm trying to accomplish. First is a Snorkel, I think I can manage this with some PVC pipe and a saw. Next a nice and sturdy roof rack. Rear bumper with spare tire and jerry can holder Similar to a Jeeps Smitybilt. Suspension lift kit or custom lift. Under Engine protection plate for off-roading. Some wheels that are larger than 13" and are 4x140 lug pattern or an adapter kit. Dual exhaust or just a replacement. Mines in pieces! I think that's it for now. So can anyone help me out? Thanks SOOOOO much! -Mike -
So, I bought a 1990 Loyale coupe in early January. I have to admit, though, I'm not too terribly knowledgeable about the Loyale RS, or the Loyale in general, so I'm really just looking for any info I can get on this particular car, which has been less than forthcoming on the Googles. I suppose it might help if you knew what I was planning on using it for? Autocross. More specifically, running in H Stock (for you SCCA peoples). It's a five speed, naturally aspirated with that funny push button 4WD option. If you'd be so kind, could you learn me a bit about my car? -
How in the bloody hell do I uncover the rear strut towers in my 90 wagon? am trying to remove struts and put on coil sleeves. where the codswalloping codswallop is the magic button that uncovers the tops?
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Hey guys! I completed my dual range swap but have some questions!! any help would be appreciated! So after my swap everything went okay,,, but eventually my clutch fork bent back,,, So my first question is: Are 4x4 clutch forks a little curved as apposed to 2wd clutch forks or did i bend it? Second what is the proper assembly for clutch forks?? i currently need to replace and have NO idea how to and my Hanes manual doesnt say how.... Car is a; 93 ,loyale, sedan, d/r swap, 5spd, 155k Thanks for any help, I can try to have pictures tomorrow.....
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First I would like to say hello and thanks. I have been using this forum for years but this is my first post. I bought this car 2 years ago with close to 200,000 miles. I was told it had a bad MAF but when I got there to test drive it (with an untested junkyard replacement MAF) it had a huge hole in the plastic next to the MAF. I duct taped the hole and tested both MAF and got the same results (crappy but better than before duct tape). The car was throwing solenoid codes that were not MAF related...so I thought maybe she took it to a mechanic that did not understand Subaru's and mis diagnosed the MAF. The guy who said it was the MAF also missed the giant hole in the plastic. How is beyond me, but his credibility went to zero! So far I replaced: - The plastic/rubber housing that the MAF (and most vac hoses) mounts into. (whats that called) - PCV (new) - O2 Sensor (new) - 2 solenoids (EGR and purge control) - IAC - Plugs, wires, d cap (new) - MAF (junkyard) and cleaned the original - Fuel Filter (new) I also tried: - Seafoam - Alcohol and water into vacuum lines - Alcohol in the fuel PS... The alternator was brand new. First I did all of the above to clear a bunch of codes. The codes returned. I re-replaced both solenoids and IAC again (new, not junk yard this time). Codes are now gone again but the car has no change in performance. NONE. The car continued to idle poorly, surges really bad when trying to maintain a slow speed (parking lots), has a hesitation when accelerating (rpms drop when clutch is released...then after a 1-3 second delay it kicks in...it feels almost like a power band kicking in ...but it goes from crap to normal not normal to overdrive). I tried to drive the front wheels up on a curb but could not get the low end power to climb up onto it. When I start it, it usually idles between 1000-1500 sometimes between 2000-3000 and sometimes it fights to stay between 200-1000 or just dies (200-1000 is more common when warm). I have been playing with the throttle cable constantly to keep it from stalling so all of these RPM values may be irrelevant. I have found cracked vacuum hoses but no matter how many I fix nothing changes. I also removed several vacuum hoses (on purpose...as a test) but it does not get worse (removed charcoal canister, removed vac hose to pcv...one at a time...no response). It runs fine at highway speeds, gets pretty good gas mileage and starts instantly on even the coldest nights. I am at a loss! - I suspect a vacuum leak but my heater vents and 4x4 button work properly. Then again, my brakes have been acting up but introducing a major leak does not make it worse?!?!!?! - Maybe a fuel pump or sock issue. - Maybe a computer issue caused by playing with the screw on the carb (I read not to do that...it was too late) - Maybe I need a new battery (lots of corrosion on one tower) - Maybe my fuel filter got clogged instantly after replacement. - Knock sensor? IDK anything about this but it came up in other forums. - EGR...I can't get it off Random stuff that might matter: - I noticed a hose that does not go anywhere. It is a 1/2 inch hose that sticks through my passenger side firewall. It is about 9" long but does not connect to anything. It is dangling onto my exhaust pipe. Its a foot below the windshield wiper apparatus. - Charcoal canister also has a 1/2" hose on the bottom that goes nowhere (I think thats for water... is it not) - Charcoal canister has 4 nipples on the top. Only 3 have a hose connected, one is capped. If we call the 4 nipples a,b,c,d and c and d come from the riser then its a (If I'm not mistaken thats the one from the gas tank...this seems like it could be bad....No gas vapor odors though). - The lady I bought it from said she took the belt of the AC compressor - I keep hearing a clank that I suspect is a broken motor mount - Has the tick of death PS I am not a mechanic but can follow directions well enough that I do most of my own work. This is my 7th sub $1000 Subaru and I keep learning. Things like hoses, alternator, oil change, cv joints, and everything I mentioned above are easy for me. I don't have many tools or gadgets (vac or compression test stuff) but I have a muti meter. Things like clutch, tranny, head gasket mean its time to sell.
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i was learning how to drive in this car and didnt know at the time that it had locking diffs for 4wd which make it very hard to turn on asphalt so i tried to turn into my driveway and ended up hitting a tree breaking my front left corner light(not just the lens, but the entire light). And now i cant find a replacement for the life of me. -
Hello everyone, new member, purchased a '92 Loyale wagon to get us up the mountain (and our driveway) in the winter. Car was running great for the first few weeks of ownership but just lately has started to run a little erratically. So far I've cleaned the MAF sensor and have installed a new WIX brand air filter from Napa. First start in the morning it used to run at a high idle until the accelerator pedal was depressed then settled into a lower idle, which from experience is how it should run. Reversing up to the driveway and then going up the driveway it ran great, no hesitation or stalling. Now when it's started in the morning it'll run high idle for about 10 seconds and want to cut out. After about 30 seconds warm up I go to reverse and it wants to die unless I keep the revs up and ride the clutch a little. Same going up the driveway it wants to cut out and hesitates. Also when driving around town it doesn't run smoothly, there's a distinct hesitation when accelerating which dissipates somewhat if you increase the revs before changing up gears. So I'm thinking possibly fuel filter clogged or possibly the TBI injector faulty or maybe the air bleed valve or similar is not working properly? Or could it be an electrical problem? Any guidance or suggestions much appreciated. -
I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers? -
Preparing the Loyale for RallyCross
LoyaleSmith posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hey everyone, I am starting to prepare for rallycross. I own a 1990 5spd Loyale with an EA82. Car is stock except for Spectre cone filter, fitted to a MAF adapter(3"). Also, the drivers seat is a stock bucket seat from a Nissan 240sx, with rail adapters I made here at home. I also have mudflaps which are custom made. SO, I have a few things to do before I believe this car is ready to go sling mud around. Before anyone says anything, I am aware that this car isn't a "race-ready" vehicle, nor is it really typical for any sort of motorsport event. From what I've read about rallycross, it's about having fun and getting the car out there, not being fast and competitive. Thats what i'm looking for. I don't want to destroy the car, I want to go have fun. I have no problem driving conservatively on the track, and i'm confident that my car will do fine. I'm not out to build some badass screaming turbo race car.. I want to take a virtually stock car and improve my abilities, along with getting a feel for basic motorsports. I would assume everyone on here sees what I mean, but still, I feel like I have to say something. Alright, here is what i have in mind that should get me ready to go play. CAR -Battery tie down(i have none) -set of good tires -relocate AWD button to dash and get aftermarket shift knob -put on skidplate -fire extinguisher -straight pipe with cat ITEMS TO BUY -approved helmet -gloves -SCCA membership -gas can -tarp -jumper cables Questions: 1) Will my aftermarket seat be a problem for the inspection? Custom made adapters had to be made to make the seat fit in my car. It's sturdy, and not anything completely ridiculous. The seatbelt works and is positioned correctly. Other than what I have said, does anyone have any advice or recommendations for me? I would really appreciate it. I'm new to this, obviously. I'm a huge rally fan, and I live in the Pacific Northwest. I'll be participating in Sports Car Club of America events. I'll upload pictures of progress. Thank you guys! -
I recently replaced my timing belt and pulleys, oil pump, water pump, cam seals, main seal and thermostat (thanks for the videos miles fox!) When i first started the car the passenger side timing belt pulled backwards towards the firewall on the cam pulley and is was riding pretty close to the edge of the pulley. I turned the car off and loosened the tensioner and pulled the belt back to the center of the pulley. when i started the car again the belt went immediately back to riding on the edge of the cam pulley. any ideas? Also terrible gas mileage before and after this job circa 15mpg in the city any ideas on this? edit = car is a 5mt 4wd loyale with 261k, the repair was originally initiated from a ball bearing falling out of my oil pump. thanks! -
92 loyale and my 4x4x won;t engage when it press the button. recently i replaced the clutch and right after that it stopped working... thought on if that caused it to stop working? thanks!
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Hey there fellow subaru lovers. ive recently started a fan page on facebook for Old Gen subarus. (it says NW but honestly we love em all!) im not really trying to post to get more likes as much as i am looking for great Old gen subaru pictures. I see amazing ones day in and day out on here and i want to use them all but i would also like to give credit to those who have made it great. i ve added a few that i absolutely couldnt help myself but id like to get more! anyone who would like to have their old gen subarus plastered on the internet with us all drooling over it either add them on this thread. send them to my email ( elliottdevon@ymail.com ) And Or go and put it on the page and like the page. https://www.facebook.com/nwoldgensubarus ALSO we have been trying to get together a meet for Old Gens in the nw most likely in the oregon area. we have a separate thread on here if you are interested. but we will likely be adding it as an event on the facebook. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142570-like-to-get-an-old-gen-meet-going-in-the-oregon-area/ Thanks all! hope to hear from you soon!
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I bought this Subaru about 2 weeks ago for a couple hundred bucks on a rainy dark night. Ran, shifted, and stopped just fine. Bought it and drove it around until i had to registar it. Then i started poking around. To the point: Can somebody provide me with a picture of the o2 sensor plug/location? I have been tracing wires on and off for a while and cant seem to find where the o2 sensor connects into the harness. The wires coming off of the sensor itself have definitely been cut off, but i wouldnt this they would have cut the harness as well... Im starting to wonder if the previous owner chopped it off when they swapped in a new engine. (Still an ea82 Spfi) Much appreciated.
