Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'loyale'.
-
So, I own a 1990 Loyale with push button 4wd. I want to lower it using coilovers or springs(if possible) from a 90's Impreza. Does anyone have experience with this, or other bolt-on/spring swap projects? I'm not looking to cut springs, OR buy 1800 dollar coils.. Help appreciated. thanks!
-
Not sure if anyone here remembers when I last posted about my cold idle issue. Needless to say, it hasn't been fixed. I've been able to tolerate it the past few months, but now it's getting ridiculous. I've started taking auto tech classes, and my class starts at 7 am, so I have to deal with it every morning.... Please read everything carefully. Car is my '90 Loyale, EA82 N/A. The problem I have is when the car is cold, it doesn't want to idle. I start it up and have to rev it at 2000-3000 RPM for ~5 minutes before I can get it to idle at 500 or so. It's good enough to get going, so I leave. However, EVERY time I push in the clutch (or put it in neutral), the RPMs fall so fast that the engine stalls. When changing gears, this isn't a problem. But if I'm coming to a stop, I must heel-toe and feather the gas to keep it from stalling. Then, randomly, it'll idle normally. Just like if someone flipped a switch, it'll idle fine. It used to take 5 minutes or so before this happened, but now it takes up to 30 minutes!!! My school is about 30 minutes away, and sometimes I can go most of the trip there before it idles normally. Funny thing is, if I've been driving for 10 minutes or so, turn off the car, then turn it back on, it'll idle fine. For example, if I stop and get gas before school, it'll idle normally when I start it back up. The few minutes it takes to fill the tank is enough for the car to decide to idle. I know what you're thinking, it's the IACV or the CTS. I've replaced the CTS twice and the IACV twice. I've cleaned the IACV a few times, but it didn't help. The only part I've noticed that had a difference was the water pump. I swapped my longblock and it came with a new water pump on it. That water pump failed in 400 miles, but during that time, I never had an idle problem. I put my old water pump on and I soon saw the idle issue again. I've never heard of a water pump causing an idle issue, have you? Here are some of the things I've noticed: The issue doesn't seem to be related to weather much. It'll have more problems idling during the winter, but I still notice it during the summer. The issue doesn't seem to be related to how long the car has been sitting. I mean, if it's only been sitting for less than 3 hours, then it'll probably idle. But I've had it idle fine after sitting for 8 hours, and I've had it not idle at all after sitting for 4 hours. The issue doesn't seem to be related to coolant temperature. The temp gauge will reach it's normal range in a few minutes, but as stated before, sometimes it'll take 30 minutes before the car will idle. However, I believe once the temp gauge reads normal, I can turn the car off, sit for a minute, turn it back on, and it'll idle fine. In the video posted below, I took off the IACV hose with the engine running. Made no difference. Disconnected the CTS. No difference. Disconnected the IACV (electrically). No difference. I'll try the tests again with the engine warm, if that's when I'm supposed to do it. My CEL is on, but I believe it's for the purge and EGR solenoids, if I remember correctly. Been a while since I've checked; I'll check again. Anyways, any ideas? Please feel free to ask questions to help with diagnosis. Feel free to tell me any tests to do, and I'll do them (assuming I have the tools for it). When I posted this before, someone stated something about testing a pin on the connector on the ECU. I never got confirmation on what pin and what numbers I should be getting. I'm just kinda stumped as to what it could be, especially since the two most probable causes are not likely to be the problem. My gut feeling says it's an electrical problem, but I don't know where exactly to start with that. I really want to test and diagnose this, rather than doing the "shotgun" method to fixing it: throwing parts at the car hoping one will fix it. Here is the video that kinda shows the cold start. Before you say anything, the oil pressure gauge reads low; always has. And I did adjust my belts after the video. http://youtu.be/KwjWYgybeLc
-
Hey all, I was wondering if anyone had info on removing the stock loyale shift knob. I have already gotten the pin out, but i'm not sure how to remove the 4wd button. Inside the knob is a white plastic casing. will the casing remove from the knob, or do I have to cut the knob off around it? I am going to put the button somewhere on the dash or center console, and thread on an aftermarket shift knob. words of advice/pics much appreciated. Thank you subie family! -
Been surfing this site for a while but couldn't find a thread on researching older subaru's for a noob. Many years ago, I used to own an 88 GL Sedan with D/R 4x4 - nothing could stop it. Later I had a 90 or 92? Loyale wagon with the push button 4wd - good car just not as much grip low end power as the D/R, but a bit better on the HWY. Looking into getting another Loyale or GL wagon with d/r 4wd but don't know all the drawbacks to each model etc. I am not at all a mechanic, but I want to start doing some stuff on my own. Start simple and build on it, but most stuff I would need a mechanic if fixing was needed. I am not looking for a crawler, more like a capable daily driver/cruiser I could take to the beach, mountain, and camping(but able to handle some serious shiggy if needed). Would like to work at making it reliable for longer 1000mi+ car trips too(later). I see a lot of 87 GL wagons with the D/R 4wd for sale at a lot of different prices and newer Loyale wagons with the push button. I am pretty sure I want dual range 4wd but the loyales seem to usually be in better shape. A lot of broken down 87's out there which makes me consider getting the better running Loyale and later swapping in the d/r 4wd- if that is suggested? Questions - looking at spending around 1500 initially... Based on needs should I look at getting an 1987 with D/R or get a 90 or newer Loyale and convert to d/r later on - any idea on cost for shop to do? Is it better to buy something running well at higher price or get something that needs work at a low price? What should I consider when perusing craigslist? Questions to ask? Any advice or links to different threads is appreciated, maybe even links to CL with some pointers on why good buy or not. Just can't believe how much information there is and sifting through it a bit challenging for a noob. Thanks! -
Searched forums but can't find answer...I’m not very technical or mechanical(yet!).. Looking to buy Loyale and I think I found a 1993. Wondering about compatibility. I think I know the answer, it is the 88-94 subaru loyale parts are mostly compatible, right? What about 87’s and older GL’s? My long term plan is to convert to D/R 4wd and maybe engine swap down the road. I would think the lift kits and shocks are same for year range too? Thanks!
-
I need a little help. I have a 92 4wd Loyale Wagon that I need to smog in. Runs great but the CEL is on. Just drove 850 miles and got an average of 34mpg. Hooked the green test cables up on the driver's side in the engine bay and shows a code 34. I jumped the cables at the EGR solenoid, as described in this forum along with disconnecting the battery to clear the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/103456-cel-34-and-35-1990-loyale/?p=1182243 No change, the CEL is still on. Does this mean the ECU is bad?
-
I pulled my A/C out of my 92 Loyale and installed matched belts. It seems from other threads that everything should be good to go but I wanted to double check that no other mods need to be done. I am about to do a long drive and wanted to be 100% sure so sorry for the repost if the answer is out there. I also just finished doing (having) all the brakes (done) so it hasn't really been driven since pulling the A/C. That being said, I have most of the parts of an A/C system available to anyone in Vancouver, BC. The only part missing is the radiator but I'm sure it won't be hard to spot the homeless person walking around with it.
-
I drive a 92 Loyale wagon (standard, 4wd) and my brother has a 96 legacy wagon that he is planning on having towed off. Are there any parts that are worth taking for my Loyale? I know a lot of stuff isn't compatible but is there anything worth pulling? Thanks. -
Hello All, It has been awhile. I installed a lift kit that was provided on the other topic. The kit has been cool and works great. I tore a CV boot and removed the axles. I replaced the boot and I can't for the life of me get the strut pulled in far enough to the center to reinstall. What am I missing here? Eric
-
I think I am almost there to getting this 1992 Loyale back up and running. I had diagnosed this engine as a broken timing belt and it was. The Driver side belt was majorly broken. However, I got the new belts on and the timing seemed to be weird and I can't get it to fire up. The pass. sides seems like it is firing but the driver side is not. It's getting spark and fuel and compression. but no combustion. Per Chiltons guide I lined up the dots to the top of the timing backing and the crank sproket dot up as well. but the driver side 2/4 is fouled by fuel, well cylinder 2 is. I didn't check c4. Compression is abour 150 psi and holds. (no leakage) Chilton siad something about applying pressure while setting the timing belt, but if I did that then it would not be on it's mark. So is there anyone out there that has done this repair and knows the exact thing to do to make sure this thing is in time? I've made sure that the engine was at TDC beore I aligned the cams. Thanks for your assistance! -Mike
-
Hello new friends, I have recently purchased a 1992 Subaru Loyale 1.8L on-demand AWD 5 speed with 143k from a friend. It is not in running condition and when it died it just stopped with no sign or reason. Before I purchased it they tried replacing the following Spark plugs Wires Distributor Button Cap Coil The car stopped running back in November 2012 and hasn't started since. I've spent 3 hours on this already and am ready to be done. I've double checked the timing of cylinder #1 and the distributor. They are in time and I get a strong spark to cylinder #1 and #3 however, I get a very weak signal to the other side #2 and #4. I'm confused by this, I even replaced the CAP again and same thing. I haven't tested compression yet, but I was able to see the intake valves on #1 while turning the motor for TDC (via TDC whistle indicator). and I haven't tested for proper fuel pressure, however we get a nice steady flow. The motor does not sound like it has loss of compression, but doesn't sound 100% when cranking. \ I assumed that it was flooded so it has been aired out. I will test for compression and injector pulse tomorrow. Could it be possible that if the #2 and #4 timing belt is broken that it would give a weak spark? I haven't pulled the covers yet, because it is a little intensive to pull those things. lol. The car is still at my friends Apartment so this is all being done onsite, not in a garage. Any info would be great. This is my first boxer motor and I'm very excited about the Journey we will have together. again thank you new friends -mike -
Hello new friends, I have recently purchased a 1992 Subaru Loyale 1.8L on-demand AWD 5 speed with 143k from a friend. It is not in running condition and when it died it just stopped with no sign or reason. Before I purchased it they tried replacing the following Spark plugs Wires Distributor Button Cap Coil The car stopped running back in November 2012 and hasn't started since. I've spent 3 hours on this already and am ready to be done. I've double checked the timing of cylinder #1 and the distributor. They are in time and I get a strong spark to cylinder #1 and #3 however, I get a very weak signal to the other side #2 and #4. I'm confused by this, I even replaced the CAP again and same thing. I haven't tested compression yet, but I was able to see the intake valves on #1 while turning the motor for TDC (via TDC whistle indicator). and I haven't tested for proper fuel pressure, however we get a nice steady flow. The motor does not sound like it has loss of compression, but doesn't sound 100% when cranking. \ I assumed that it was flooded so it has been aired out. I will test for compression and injector pulse tomorrow. Could it be possible that if the #2 and #4 timing belt is broken that it would give a weak spark? I haven't pulled the covers yet, because it is a little intensive to pull those things. lol. The car is still at my friends Apartment so this is all being done onsite, not in a garage. Any info would be great. This is my first boxer motor and I'm very excited about the Journey we will have together. again thank you new friends -mike
-
Last week I finally took possession of a 1989 RX coupe with 74,270 miles on the odometer. I have decided to name her Ruth after her original owner. The car was purchased new in New Hampshire, and I bought her from the original owner's granddaughter in Washington, DC. Ruth is pretty solid overall, and the interior is immaculate but for two holes in the driver's side headrest and a bit of wear to the trunk carpet. I've decided to get her back on the road and clean her up to the extent I can without going broke. I wanted to take Ruth to Carlisle, PA this past weekend, so I launched into a flurry of activity to make sure she was roadworthy. The front brakes turned out to be completely shot, but the calipers moved easily and worked fine, so all I needed were rotors and pads. The rear pads and rotors need replacement, but they could wait. I ordered a full set of rotors and pads from my local Subaru dealership; apparently I got the last set of NOS rear pads in the country. While driving home, I noticed that the temp gauge didn't work. When I checked the connector, the terminal popped right off. Unfortunately, the dealer ordered the wrong temp sensor, so I had to improvise. The copper wire was still lodged in the sensor, and there was just enough length to crimp on a connector from my toolbox. Not ideal, but it worked. Now I can replace the sensor at my leisure. Next up: the passenger outer CV boot was completely gone, and the bearings were clacking around in the race. When I got home with the replacement drive axle, I discovered that the crown nut had been crossthreaded so badly that it was unusable. I packed grease into the joint and jury-rigged two boots I cut off of old Forester axles, tying them together with twine and reusing the metal clamp near the hub. This somehow lasted 62 miles before disintegrating in spectacular fashion. Surprisingly, it was the metal band that failed - the twine had held together and had to be cut away to remove what was left of the boots. I drove another 200 to Carlisle and back to DC with a completely bare outer joint. The last thing I checked before taking Ruth on the highway was the timing belt. The belt itself looked good, but it was frighteningly loose. I was about to give up on driving her to the show, but then I discovered that the tensioners on the ea82 are manual, not hydraulic. And there are even access holes to reach the bolts for the pulleys! Ten minutes later, the belts were nice and snug. I started to feel nervous when I felt some nasty vibration from the outer CV joint around 65mph, but I discovered that it smoothed out above 75. Cruised all the way there and back at 75-80, grinning like a madman the whole way. Among the highlights at Carlisle was meeting Nipper, whose posts on all these Subaru boards I've been reading for years now. Also loved seeing his CVT-powered Justy. My biggest problem now is some odd noise from the rear suspension, along with left rear camber that is not exactly within factory specs. I suspect it might have something to do with this: The worst area of rust is the rear crossmember. If anyone has a replacement in good condition or knows where to find one, please let me know. I'm not terribly keen on the rear suspension falling apart while I'm driving. I also need new bumper beams front and rear, because the front is bent from a small accident, and the rear is more rust than metal. I'm holding out hope that the plastic bumper covers will be reusable. In the 250-odd miles I've driven, I have fallen completely in love with this car. It's small, sprightly for its age, and like few other cars on the road in my neck of the woods. I am grateful for any assistance I might receive here, and I hope to keep you posted while I return Ruth to her former glory. -
So I just replaced my rotors and pads. Seeing as both my rotors had cracks in them making it terribly hard to stop the car. And I figured while I was at it I'd replace the black brake fluid so I let the system drain overnight and was hoping to gravity bleed in the morning. To my suprise only half of the system wants to bleed, EDIT: Front left, and rear right are dry as a bone. Front right, and rear left are full of fluid no air. So basically I tried blowing air through the "clogged" system (with a bicycle pump lol) I can see air bubbles coming up at the reservoir! so its not clogged, but no fluid comes through. Before I buy a new master cylinder I'd like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem, and maybe theres a fix? Been at it for over two hours now, I guess I'm not taking her out just yet!
-
Hello, I am new here I own a 1997 Impreza Outback Sport. Recently I purchased a 1993 Loyale, Loyales are quite rare in my parts. I purchased the car for 300$, running and driving (but not braking) so basically I'm here to ask questions and learn something. My Impreza is my daily driver so I dare not attempt mods to it until my Loyale has been brought to a satisfactory level. I am a student in auto mechanics. Which is why I bought my Loyale so I could work on it and mod it without much consequence. Pictures are of my cars
-
Greetings to all here in the Ultimate Subaru Message Boards, I recently purchased a Subaru wagon and am having various issues with which I hope some of you can help address. To begin, I purchased the wagon off of Craigs List in the Skagit area of WA. It was originally advertised for $500 and the ad was verbatim: "Its white got the roof rack won't go over 40 mph 4x4 push button stuck on..have title in hand and it runs but i will tow for maybe alittle extra..call me up...not a daily driver project for mechanic...probally a quick fix and flip..." Here's the link: http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/3871124465.html After asking about the 4WD issue and what else is wrong with the car, I managed to talk the seller down to $400 vice the original $500 price tag. I shelled out an extra $50 for him to tow it to my place and that was about 2 weeks ago. To clarify, it's a 1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon 5-Speed SPFI 4x4 non-turbo (VIN 5). Considering the condition of the body, interior and engine from what I could tell, the car's a decent enough deal. The car starts, runs, drives, and stops, but not as well as it should. Before I get too much into the issues and what's been done thus far, please keep in mind I don't have much automotive experience. It wasn't until last year when I purchased my 1st Dodge Ramcharger that I started tinkering. Since then I've worked on another Ramcharger, an '87 CRX, and a '90 Civic. I can manage air filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor caps/rotors, ignition coils, bulbs, headlights, lift supports (hatches), fluid checks/changes, and things of that nature. Basic stuff. I also try to utilize the proper terminology so that I know what I'm referring to when at an auto part store or when getting insight from my mechanic buddies. So, on to the laundry list... - Engine backfiring, - 4x4 won't disengage - Loss of power - Grinding/"whirring" noise in front tires when slowing down - Stalling - Worn bearings/brake rotors? When I first got the car, I started it up and tried reversing. The car stalled out in the clutch-to-accelerator transition. I started it back up, cranked the RPMs to 3k and pulled back into the parking spot it was in. So far I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, and fuel filter as well as giving the car some love with a wipe down and bath. As of last night, my mechanic buddy took out the rear driveline after realizing the lever for the 4x4 (underneath the car) wouldn't budge. I think my transfer case is screwed up, but I don't know for certain. My buddy told me we'd need a lift or floor jack to get the car up high enough to diagnose it better. After he took out the rear driveline, I took the car around the block and it did in fact drive as if it was in FWD vice 4WD. However, there's an odd "whirring"/grinding noise coming from the front tires. It doesn't happen when I apply the brakes, but instead when I coast and am slowing down-thus why I thought it to be bad bearings. Also, the car backfires, has loss of power (RPMs surge, but acceleration is slow), it hates hills with a passion and will stall out easily on inclines. I personally think I either need a new fuel filter and/or intake manifold gasket, wheel bearings, timing redone, and a general tune up, especially with the SPFI. Again, I never claimed to know what in the wide world of sports I'm talking about when it comes to automotive, but I do follow the repair/owner's manuals step by step and to a "t". Any advice is greatly appreciated. More pics will come soon. Andrew
-
I haven't really seen any threads or pictures of Toyota inclinometers being installed into Subarus, so I figured I'd post. Today, I got in the mail an identical pair of these Toyota inclinometers: In case you don't know, here's some details on these gauges. Toyota sold them in their '84-'89 4WD pickups, 4Runners, and Tercels. But only on the SR5 models. The 4Runner inclinometer also came with an altimeter on the left, whereas the Tercel ones (like what I got) just had a 4WD indicator light that illuminated when 4WD was engaged. Near-new inclinometers go for ~$200 on eBay, so they're not necessarily cheap. Although I believe you can get them for real cheap at a junkyard, if you find an '80s SR5 4WD Toyota. If you don't know what an inclinometer is, it's basically a tilt gauge. One gauge tells you how angled up/down your vehicle is, and the other tells how banked your vehicle is (helps to avoid rollovers). Seeing as most of the people on here offroad, I'm sure most of you at least know what an inclinometer is. The nice thing about this one is it's entirely mechanical, besides the backlighting (and the 4WD indication light). Inside, it's basically just a set of gears and weights. Just like a Subaru, it's a pretty simple machine. When I first saw a picture of one of these, I thought they were really cool. I don't offroad to a point where rollovers and steep hills are a concern/possibility. But I thought it'd be cool to have one of these in the car, especially since it'd be another thing to make my car unique. So in this thread, I'll be posting about the installation of this, and I'd like to hear your guys' opinions. How do I put this in my Loyale? Well, that's a good question. It does have this "case" which is comfortably close in color to my car's interior. That flat spot on the EA82 dash would be a perfect place to put this. The only problem is that the flat spot isn't very big as you go towards the passenger side, so the only place the inclinometer fits is right in front of the clock. For most EA82 owners, this isn't a problem, since these clocks rarely work. However, since this is my daily driver, I do have a working clock in there, and I'd like to not cover it up. As you might be able to tell, there is a gap under the gauges, which is quite noticeable (and ugly) in person. However, the real problem with this setup though is the angle. I guess the Toyota dashboards are sloped, because sitting on the EA82 dash, the gauges are angled upwards. This is a problem for the pitch gauge, as you have to recalibrate it. But when you adjust it a lot, it's range gets screwed with. Properly adjusted, the pitch gauge reads about +/- 45 degrees. When I adjust it to compensate for the angle at which it's sitting in the above picture, the range is about + 75 degrees, -15 degrees. I have to get the gauges to sit flat for it to work properly. Easy solution is to pull it out of the case. This, as of right now, is how I'm going to install this. Reason being is it's short enough that I can still see the clock, flat enough for the readings to be good, and a good contact surface for me to put velcro down to hold it on the dash (I want this to be as minimally invasive/permanent as possible). The only problem with this setup is it's not super good looking, mainly because of the white case. Solution? Well, I decided to paint it black! Took out all the components of the inclinometer. Pretty simple. Time for paint! I'm just painting the outside of the case black. I'm leaving the interior of the case white because 1) it doesn't matter since you can't see it, and 2) I'm not sure, but the white might help with the illumination. Another thing is the wiring. For right now, I'm not going to wire up anything. I'm talking the bulbs/wires out. If I were to wire up the back illumination, I'd probably just tap into the cigarette lighter wires. I always drive with my headlights on, so they'd be illuminated all the time anyways. And the lighter is a switched power source, so it wouldn't drain power. Wiring up the 4WD light could also be a possibility, although I kinda see it as useless. What I'm thinking of doing is swapping the 4WD indicator light for another gauge--perhaps a voltmeter--since it wouldn't be hard to do so. But I won't worry about that for right now. That's as far as I have gotten so far. The perfect place to install this would be where the radio is, since it's the perfect width. But I have a working radio that I use all the time, so I won't be doing that. Interested in what you guys think, and maybe if you have done something like this before. I think it's a cool gadget, and I also read that it can be used as a g-meter. Accelerating/braking affects the pitch meter, and turning affects the roll meter. However, roads aren't perfectly flat, so it wouldn't be accurate. I'll post more as I make more progress. Currently waiting for the paint to dry, and it's not easy buying velcro at 10 pm, haha.
-
Master Cylinder or Brakes? 92 Loyale
Subarocket posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi guys. I redid all my brakes a year ago and bled the lines (first timer) and my brakes came out almost non-existent. Pedal to the floor and no action. The garage rebled my brakes and it was much better but they weren't terribly strong. Before me changing them, the pedal would not got to the floor like this (the brakes were worn badly but pedal travel and strength was normal). A year later of having quirky brakes that I have managed fine, another garage tells me the master cylinder is gone. The brakes are definitely worse now. 1st pump typically gets nothing, second pump is fine. Pedal travels to the floor the first time and the second time when it engages, the pedal travel seems right. The garage says he can't find a master cylinder. A lot of chatter on here says the MC hardly goes. Any thoughts? Thanks -
1992 Subaru Loyale My left front calliper seized today while driving through Vancouver. I am here intermittently for the next month. Does anyone have a parts car around these parts? I could use a new calliper and master cylinder. Thanks, Brian
-
I am not a mechanic and don't have many tools. I was told the vacuum modulator needed to be replaced on my 1990 subaru loyale turbo and that it was easy to do myself. I am hoping to get some info on locating the modulator (do I get to it from under the hood or under the car? Passenger side or driver side etc.. ) Thank you. -
Selling complete vehicle or parting out. 88k original miles. Needs new transmission. Located Kingman AZ close to Las Vegas, NV All offers considered engine type EA82 1.8L single port fuel injected. Transmission type 3AT or M41 hydraulic controlled and vacuum. 1st gear works 2nd and 3rd wont shift into I think its the valve body or clutch pack. Power windows, locks, basically everything else works and many parts in excellent condition. Just not a mechanic and not interested in fixing. Engine runs great AC works excellent. Cash only or trade for trailer. Mark 928-377-9603 markwebfile@gmail.com -
As you can see in my profile photo, the paint on my car could use a little co-ordination. So I bought a pint of Subaru Rio Red (Called High-Tech Red by the paint company) in a "Ready-to-spray" can. It says on the can that no reducers are necessary, but do I have to add anything else to the paint? I want to just rough up the paint that's currently on the car now (Hood, fender) and spray over it. My other question is what kind of clear coat would acrylic lacquer paint require? My end goal is just to make it red. Close enough that you can't notices at 25 MPH that the car is in fact two-toned. I can take better pictures of the paint on the rest of the car. Thanks in advance! -
To make a long story short my uncle towed it in over a timing belt. They let him have it, cheap. And i got it for the scrap from a very worn ouT XT. one belt and a quart ATF (to stop the ticking), and I have a new daily driver.
-
Hello USMB members. I'm fairly new to subarus but have a couple old wagons now and love them so it's time I I learn all I can and I really, really appreciate those of you who take the time to reply so thanks in advance. Ok, so 1991 Loyale, 5 speed, 4x4, 229k on body and unknown on the engine as it was swapped out prior to me owning it. The car always starts and has been running fine but recently has started dying/stalling on me as I'm running around town and then won't want to start. If I wait a few minutes or longer it will start again. I have replaced the fuel filter. When the fuel pumps go out on these wagons do they just go out or do they present these symptoms? Any ideas as to where to start troubleshooting? I really like this car and want to keep her going for years to come. -
Hey fellow Subie fans, I'm going to be moving from Boulder, Colorado (near Denver) to Brooklyn, N.Y. (NYC...) and will be stopping by Denver's Subaru-filled junkyard on the way out to stock up on parts. Do any of you East Coast Subie people need anything while I'm there? If so, give me a call and we can work something out vis-a-vis shipping costs. You chipping in on gas (and maybe a little labor) will be hugely cheaper than having something shipped. Personally, I've had poor luck finding parts and parts cars on the East Coast (they all rusted to pieces years ago). But the Denver U Pull and Pay always has nearly a dozen GLs and Loyales in the yard. If you need something, give me a call at (757) 635-2136. I'll be in Denver until Friday afternoon (May 17, 2013). Cheers, Ben
