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Showing results for tags 'loyale'.
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Hey guys, Does anyone have a good resource on clutch replacement. mine went out yesterday and im looking for some good info. much appreciated!
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Closed thanks for all the ideas and help
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Trying to do an oil pump swap this weekend and worried i'm gonna lose my A/C refrigerant in the process, and won't be able to find more R12...cause it's super illegal thanks to it's unenviromental friendliness. after some googling, i see most pointing to converting it w/ a kit available at auto-zone or other automotive supply stores. have also seen the a number of "eco-safe" R12 refills out there, but not sure what the deal is with them. never really had A/C in any of my cars of the years so not really willing to give up my currently working A/C, but need to eliminate my TOD w/ the oil pump swap (hopefully, fingers crossed). thoughts? thanks, Glen
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trying to eliminate my TOD (tick of death) or lifter tick and looking into maybe just making some adjustments along w/ using a heavier weight oil along with an oil treatment, but not sure i can make those changes if the rocker-arms are hydraulic. it would seem that based on the relative simplicity of the Loyale's engine, they'd be solid, but not sure. anyone got a firm answer for me? thanks much, Glen
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In an effort to eliminate my TOD for good, i'm gonna swap out my oil pump, so i'm looking for a new one, but haven't found any that aren't priced very reasonably online. hoping to get some tips one tracking down one directly. and if i'm gonna be in there doing the oil pump, might as well do the water pump while i'm at it. they seem a lot cheaper than the oil pump, but if anyone has suggestions or a line on a water pump, i'd be very happy to know. thanks much!
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This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon. Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it. It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt. I can't find a constant 12 any where. Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d
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Trying to assess my current '94 Loyale / 3AT situation, concerning the ticking sound which accompanies the generally rough sounding idle. Not a knocking but a tick, which i've been told is commonly referred to as "Lifter-Tick" or "the Tick of Death", and can be caused by a few different things. I'm getting help from another USMB member and fellow Loyale owner, @175eya, who said he eliminated his by swapping out his oil pump, but don't quote me on that, i think there was more to it than that. I've also heard simply using a particular type of oil treatment, not sure off the top of my head which one, and then using a heavier weight oil will more temporarily solve the problem. additionally, it's been suggested the valve covers need to be adjusted. i can live with the noise, but i'm looking to increase the performance of my little 90hp engine and more importantly, help save it from any potential damage i'm currently doing to it buy continuing to drive it while it's ticking. even being able to get it up to 70mph at 42k RPM, rather than 65 at the same RPM would make highway driving better, and i'm hoping that solving the ticking issue could help w/ that. thoughts? thanks, the generosity of knowledge and expertise i've experienced here on the USMB already has fantastic and i'm truly grateful.
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I have been looking around and can't find specific photo's with steel bumpers being fabricated? Any ideas.
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While pa-rusing around my dealer's online catalog, I decided to go into the 94 section looking to see if they listed thing there that my 91 didn't have listed.. And I found an ABS section. With subcategories of speed sensors, relays and G-sensors. What the what? I know the Legacy had an ABS option in 94, but when looking at the legacy parts in the same catalog, the part prices (no part numbers listed) were different implying different parts... Has ANYONE ever seen an ABS system on a Loyale before? And I went back into the 93 and below catalogs and the ABS line exists with the same parts... now, IDK where they would've put the sensors (Since the Impreza/Legacy spindles have provisions for them..) but...? Ideas?
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Hi there, I'm trying to replace the rear taillight lens on the driver side of my 92 Loyale and I cannot figure out how to remove the lens. I removed the two 8 mm nuts on the bolts that extend into the compartment you access to change the bulbs, but the lens doesn't budge. Can anyone tell me how to do this please? Thanks in advance!
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Hi all, I've been searching this morning on information regarding the charcoal canister. Anything that I've come across dealing with this, only pertains to 2.2-2.5 swaps.. The Legacy donor vehicle had hit a deer, so the passenger fender/radiator/light/charcoal canister were destroyed. I have the EJ in the Loyale now, and I'm wondering how to correctly hook up the Loyale's canister to the EJ motor. Is this possible? I believe I connected the two (available) EJ lines correctly. But there is the third line off of the cannister that I'm not sure where to hook up. It says VC I believe. My next question is about hooking up an EA temp sender unit, and a fan relay together... I will be hooking up two 10" fans to my brand new EA82 single row radiator. It is identical to the old one that I pulled out. There is a port on the side, that I believe I can put in some type of temperature sensor in... On to the subject... I will be using the EA temp sender so that I can keep the gauge working. I also will be using a 30amp relay/circuit/switch system to operate my fans. I do not want to make a sleeve for the sender, then to put it in-line with the upper radiator hose. My idea is to make a T-adapter that can be used in that radiator port. Any reservations? I was thinking of getting a small length (maybe 1/2" long) of threaded pipe (to the size of the hole..) then attaching that to a T of some sort that I can put in the temp sender for the gauge, and one for the fan sensor... That might not make any sense, my brain is firing sparatically from all the coffee... This is similar to what I'll be using for the fan relay... Any thoughts would be great! Thanks, Greg -
Hello, My name is Nick and I am the proud owner of a 1994 Subaru Loyale wagon. I'm relatively new to the older Subaru scene. I've owned this car for about 3 months now and I'm loving it. It is a 1.8L with a single range 4WD transmission. ~175k miles and running strong. Not much done to it other than: Roof rack (roof basket coming soon), plasti-dip racing stripe, painted steelies, and a kick rump roast sub in the back. Plans for Tint and a 2 inch lift in the future. Just saying hello (:
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the "Low Brake Fluid" dash indicator light started coming on, i filled it the first time, was fine for a few days, then it came on again, but the fluid in the reservoir was right between "Full" and "Low", and taking on and off the cap of the reservoir temporarily turned off the dash light. when it came on again, i made sure to fill it up completely again. then the next day, i noticed when driving, the brakes were getting softer, requiring very little pressure to push the pedal down about halfway, then eventually all the way down before the car would actually brake enough to come to a stop. i think my first concern was maybe something got into the reservoir when opening and closing it so many times and it clogged the line somewhere, but after talking to a few folks, the thought maybe some air got in and i should just bleed them completely and refill. from what of know, this car sat for probably 7 or 8 years before a got it a little over a month ago. up to this point, the brakes were working, despite the rhythmic shudder which was relative to the speed of the car when braking, like you'd experience on a bicycle if there was a bubble or bum somewhere on one of your tires. this seems more of a fluid pressure issue. the timing belt failed about 2 weeks ago and was not cheap to have fixed and definitely outta my league, as far as doing the work so i'd really like to fix this problem myself because i think i might be within my ability and resources. suggestions? i'm not giving up on it yet, but it's beginning to make me wonder if it's worth keeping for anything other than that fact the body's in good shape. did i mention sometimes it likes to not start? i mean i turn the key, there's a click, and dash lights go on, but that's it, nothing else. sometimes it only take a few tries and it starts up, but sometimes seems like it takes a bunch of tries, then leaving and coming back to it. i haven't had to jump it yet, but i've started carrying around a booster just in case. that's a whole other issue, i'm more concerned with my brakes, considering the safety aspect. very much appreciate, thank you
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OK so i have a 1992 subaru loyale 5sp w/4wd and the clutch is having issues and i have ordered a new clutch, my problem is i think i ordered a clutch for a 2wd and not a 4wd, so will it work in it or did i just screw up and need to return it after i get it?
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The Ignition Module is the Electronic Part that Substituted the Points inside the Distribuitor; it usually consist in two parts: One Pick up the Signal and the other sends the Pulses to the Ignition Coil. How you Test an Ignition Module? This Test was Done with the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, from a Carburated EA82 Subaru Engine, from the 2WD version; but this test is pretty Standard. This is the Nippon Denso Distribuitor, without its Cap, so you can see its Interior: The Red Part is the Rotor, while the Two Black plastic covers under it, hides the Two Parts that conforms the Ignition Module, they only have two Wires Between them and other two wires that goes outside from one of them, to the Ignition Coil. To do the Test, You'll Need: - A Good 12V Battery and Jumper Wires to use its Power. - The Distribuitor with its Rotor & Ignition Module inside. - The Ignition Coil. - A Sparkplug's Wire. - A Sparkplug. The Distribuitor has two Wires that comes from the Ignition Module, one is Black with White Stripe, this is the Positive (+) while the Yellow one is the Ground (-) or Negative one. The Easy Test Procedure goes as Follows: If you Turn Manually the Distribuitor's Gear under it, Two things Might Happens: ► Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Good Ignition Module. ► No Sparks on the Sparkplug = Means a Dead Ignition Module. But you MUST Double Check that you have done Right the Connections. I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards.
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- Loyale 2.7 Turbo
- Loyale
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Well... it all Started one Weekend, my Dad took the Yellow Wagon to do a Short trip, and he stopped at a Gas station for some gas, then at its food mart for some snacks. While he was sat on the car, correctly Parked at the Food Mart, talkin' by Cellphone, someone drunk driver did side hit the front bumper very Fast... and this is the Result: The Damage wasn't much bigger, due to the fact that the bumper was already reinforced with Fiberglass and some added metal assist points, but the car moved around a feet horizontally with the side hit. Well... dad just got a li'l Head's hit, but he's Fine, O.K. Now ... but my Yellow Wagon's front Bumper was in very sad conditions... So, I went home (I work soo far away for now) to do the Repair, and I asked a friend who is a Good Fiberglass Artisan, to help me with such material. First, we took out the Front Bumper. This is a Detailed view of the Damage, includin' some Li'l twist on it's Metallic Base. Then, we started to remove out the old finish material and we Dissasembled it, Repairin' the Li'l Twist on its Base, and Reinforced it with more metallic assist points, a pair of `em did bypass the original plastic cover, The idea is to hold very firm that plastic cover to the Metallic base. We needed to cut down the Remainin' Reinforcement points... ...This is my Friend, doin' that. Then, We used sandpaper and covered it with the Fiberglass. Fiberglass comes like a Fiber Fabric, just cut the pieces you want, and then Spread all over it a Epoxy Compound, mixed with Hardener... Many coats of that Epoxy / Fiber, like you're makin' a Lasagna! Then, we used Sandpaper on the Already Dryed Fiberglass (untill Next day's Afternoon, to be Sure that was completely Cured) And Covered it with Flex. You can Notice a Li'l bit the Heads of the Metallic Assist points, and the Licence Plate's Screws, that comin' from behind the Bumper. This is how it ended lookin` at my Friend`s Repair Shop: (he did help me with fiberglass, I Prepared and Painted it) And Finally, This is the Results: My Yellow Wagon's Smile is Back! ... ... I Love it! The Bumper was Clean, while the Rest of the car was Dirty... But it Looks Soo Good! Well... I Hope this Idea could help those who want to Repair or Improve the Lookin' of their Car's Bumpers... Next to Do: a Hood Scoop... "the InterFooler" ...Comin' Soon! Kind Regards.
