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  1. Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
  2. Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?
  3. 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD Single Range 5spd so i went to the junkyard, picked up the shifter bushings just like i had done to my 93 impreza a while ago, removed some good condition ones and came home, well i did not realize that the one i removed it from was from a 2WD, thats why it was so easy to remove, and now i can't remove mine since Subaru put the bolt in the wrong way, and its in the way of the 4WD knucke that comes out of the transmission, its such an easy project yet so difficult its stupid. i did notice theres i think a roll pin on the piece that connects to the transmission but again, the stupid knuckle is in the way! please don't tell me i have to do this whole elaborate thing and remove almost everything just to change these rubber bushings on a bolt. the shifter is being annoying on the highway and i really want to just fix it. has anyone else had this problem? what did you do? any input is greatly appreciated!! the thing im pointing at is the nut, not the bolt, bolt is on the other side and thats the problem.
  4. Greetings! I have a 2007 2.5i Ltd. with 95K miles on it. I'm a DIYer interested to learn about what to watch out for on this car, what preventative stuff to do, and what the essential resources are (forums and other sites, parts sites, manuals, ...). I'm starting with swapping in a new passenger axle (torn boot) and doing a timing belt service (got the axle and a timing belt kit from FCP). Thank you for any advice! Best, Mark
  5. Hey there guys and gals, I am the proud owner of a 1986 2 dr FWD Hatchback with 122K on the car. I bought it from its original owner so most of the original parts that came with it are starting to wear out and require routine matience. I'm working on my clutch and I am looking for a replacement flywheel seeing as the one I have currently installed has already been machined once and I always plan ahead for the unexpected. The only problem I have is that this part is hard to come by. The issue is that I have one of the rare FWD only models that was just sort of thrown together at the end of the model year from leftover parts to create a sellable product. Subaru stopped manufacturing the car model in 1984, but kept selling the vehicles with a new model year on them until they ran out. As a result, I've run into my share of issues when tracking down parts and have spent many a weekend in the wrecking yards tracking down old donor cars to keep my old gal running. I need the 7 in diameter flywheel. Seeing as not many FWD models were really made and still exist, there is very little demand for and no after market manufacturer for this part. All of the flywheels I've found are the 8 in flywheels that are designed for the 1800 class engine that was primarially put into the 4WD models that came shortly after my model year. I'm fairly confident that I can sand the glazing off of the flywheel with my grinder, seeing as it isn't gouged or warped in any way. However, while it may not be an issue now, in the future if I can't find a replacement flywheel for my engine I may be forced to make a conversion over to the 4WD Dual Range, which might force me to have to upgrade to the larger engine. If anyone has this part or has any advice on what sort of transplanting/frankensteining I can do to solve this issue, please don't hesitate to message me. If there are any other models that carry a flywheel that might be compatible then let me know so that I might broaden my search.
  6. Does anyone have access to, or are familiar with, how to operate the first two generations of SSM? I might have an opportunity to buy one or two and it would be nice if I could put them through their paces. Thanks!
  7. So im trying to replace my manual transmission input shaft seal, and after removing the 3 bolts ive been unable to remove the plate. I cant find anything on it in my manual. Its a 5 speed manual dual range trans out of an 87 gl wagon. IVe got it about an inch out, but it doesnt seem to be a plate like i thought before its more of a shaft with an oring... im confused, and since i have no guide to go off of.... i need help!
  8. (Revised the original post) here's the rundown... I recently bought a 1995 Legacy with the ej22 and 127k on it and found out that it needs some transmission work (has a whirring noise on acceleration and during idling, but it goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed in). I'm considering just fixing it myself and was wondering if there are any good walkthroughs on the ej22 motor for clutch replacement and/or transmission removal.
  9. I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!!
  10. I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!!
  11. I have a recently bought 2006 Subaru Impreza and today it started leaking a thick green slime like fluid around the CV boot. Also, it is a manual and when the clutch is disengaged there is a screeching metal grinding sound that just started since I noticed the leak.
  12. Good morning all, Does anyone know the part number for the FWD manual transmission that goes into a 1989 Subaru GL wagon? I attached a picture of a transmission that is thought to be for my car but I want to make sure. The number that is hard to read is TM70F5A2AT-AK thanks, Lewis
  13. hey all this is my first post so bear with me i have a 99 subaru outback wagon with 240000 miles its got a 5 speed transmission. the transmission has always made the typical subaru rattle in 5th gear that stopped when i put my hand on the shifter. lately the transmission has been making weirder and weirder noises whirring and grinding while in gear accelerating or decelerating didnt matter what gear it was in. today i went to back out of my parking spot at work and the car crunched and stopped it almost felt like i had ran over something so i got out and checked and there was nothing there. i pulled forward and it made another crunch then drove fine. the car drives normal but its making god awful whirring and rattling sounds whenever the car is moving even in neutral. i pulled out the dipstick and it looks like one side has been dragged across a grinder and shaved down just a tiny bit. what do you guys think? transmission going bad? front differential bad? is this car gonna kill me if i keep driving it? any input would be greatly appreciated thanks Nate oh the fluid on the dipstick is full
  14. OK, here goes. Have a bad driver side front diff oil seal. Doing the CVs while I'm at it. Background- had a center diff bearing fail (shatter) 20K ago, split the tranny, found the bearing fragments and replaced no problem (also found some other old fragments of hardened metal from something else which failed and was repaired prior to my owning it). Kept the old seals and slid the halves back over the diff seals. Did not reset the backlash with the differential side retainers when it went back together (pops reassembled while I was at work, he couldn't help himself). Must I pull the trans to do this job like the manual calls out, or can I simply pull the side retainer, swap the seal & O-ring and reinstall the side retainer to the same exact point (indexing its original position/turns)? If I must pull the trans its all good, have all the necessary tools/equipment.
  15. Have had a few requests for the 2nd Edition of "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive 1975-1988". If you would like a copy of this PM ME WITH AN EMAIL ADDRESS and I will get a PDF copy of it out to you.
  16. like the title says, where is it whats it look like? I converted to a manual rack in my lifted 87 gl-10 and there is about 3-4 degrees movement in the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are good, and were recently replaced. the rack mount bushings are also in good shape. the rack itself looks like it was replaced fairly recently, I wiped it off and it looks almost new. I'm sure theres something about it in my haynes or chilton but I haven't seen either book in quite sometime. I did a search but I came up empty handed.. Thanks for the help, if it matters the rack is from an 85/86. If someone has the info floating around( which I'm sure they do). I'll see about getting it added to the USRM.
  17. Hi all, I've been replacing my clutch and transmission box on my '99 Outback. But the transmission (both new and old ones) will not slap up against the engine! I've read everything there is to read about re-installing the MT on these OBs, and I've tried everything imaginable with NO RESULTS! See photo links below of input shaft, clutch plate and hole, and the gap that exists between the transmission and the engine. Before you ask, here's what I know: 1. There's nothing blocking the tranny from hitting the engine anywhere. 2. The transmission is definitely the right size. Even the original won't shove back into it's place. 3. I have rotated the input shaft splines 10+ times and tried to shove it in, still won't go. 4. The transmission gets on all bolts, but not all the way up against the engine. 5. The clutch fork and bearing are all installed correctly and not interfering. 6. I have tried getting under the tranny and wiggling it up and down, left to right, a hundred times. No dice. 7. I have re-installed the clutch plate and disc three times, making sure it's facing the correct direction and aligned properly. 8. One of the lower bolts may be slightly bent, but the transmission still goes on all six bolts just fine. And if that one bolt is indeed bent, it's only a very slight, minute bend. Anyone have any ideas on how to finally get this sucker on without breaking anything? I am losing my mind. Here's the photo of the tranny and engine: Photo of input shaft: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k3F3pybq0P...nput+shaft.JPG Photo of clutch: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ElioWP9To...lutch+hole.JPG
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