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Showing results for tags 'outback'.
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Ok, I found a few moments to consider some requests for a bigger version of the XV-Ute : This one is based on the current Legacy / Outback platform & should give you a much larger payload + a sportier look to boot ... ! Outback-Ute-1 Outback-Ute-2 Outback-Ute-3 Outback-Ute-4 Outback-Ute-5 Note : For an even larger version, click on the link @ bottom of right of picture to see the 'Originals' ... Cheers, Bantum ... P.S. - I might have to come back to this & fix up the links ... -
Back in March I had put a set of outback struts in my 2001 legacy L and I bought them used but they were supposed to be new. Well anywho today on the way home I had one explode and come apart while I was going down the road. I use my car every day to travel around and work on farm equipment and need it to be fixed ASAP so I was wondering if anyone could tell me where the best place is to get a complete strut assembly or quick strut, Advance Auto doesn't carry a complete strut for my car, Thanks, Luke -
Hello USMB community! I am 100% new to Subaru's, and well, cars In general so please bear with me as I stumble through this explanation of what happened to my Outback While I was driving, the shifter completely disconnected from the thing it's supposed to be shifting. It's connected at the pivot bushings, but it broke right below that. The shift lever now freely moves up and down off of the drive shaft (i think). I really just need to know what connects to who and maybe a diagram or pic of someone else's assembly would help. Again, i'm new at all of this and am trying to learn as much as i possibly can to have a good , practical basis so that if a problem arises I'm not oblivious (as I am now) as to what's going on. Thanks for any help -
I have a 2003 Subaru Outback and I needed to repair the rear outer seatbelt due to a tear in the webbing. I purchased a new seat belt assembly from Subaru to replace it. When trying to install it I found that I could not get the seat belt to extend from the retractor no matter what I tried. It is brand new and I noticed when I took the broken belt off, it locked up as well so I don't think it has a broken retractor mechanism. I attempted pulling slow, fast, hard, soft, up, down, left and right with no success. Feel like an idiot. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks a lot! -
Ok I'm lost again. My husband and the subaru dealer said my car was acting fine now that they reset the computer. I drive it for about 5 hrs afterwards and the engine light turns on and we're having the same problem again. Guess the throttle position sensor didn't work. Here's what it's doing.... when I stop... sometimes not all times... I can depress the gas and no matter how much I push the pedal it will pull out at around 5mph. When it really acted up I even tried flooring it and the car crawls away 5mph then all of a sudden it acts like the gas kicks in or the engine realizes that I'm accelerating and it jumps. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Haven't run the codes yet but I will asap and keep you posted. -
I am completely lost... went to Advance and had it put on the computer and was told it was an O2 sensor, changed, pulling out and push the gas and pull out at 5mph regardless of how much gas I give it. Suspected throttle position sensor since Advance now says they can't check the codes cause it wasn't hooking up. We buy our own code machine and check again and get that the knock sensor needs changed, husband tries to drive it to see if the TPS is fixed and AWD locks down and there's a clicking noise he feels is the acuator now. This just seems like a total spiral to the death of this car and it's just under 150,000 miles! HELP!!!
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I am wanting to completely remove my ABS system from my 99 Outback Wagon, I am wondering what year vehicle I should pull the brake lines from to install on this one? or possibly the other option I ask about below. First off heres why I need to do it. 1. I really don't think I would like ABS, I grew up in icy Colorado and have become quite used to being able to feel the road thru the pedal and to be honest I am kinda scared that abs will not allow me to have as much control as I'm used to. 2. I am also very used to my hill holder (91 Legacy), and so I am hoping to be able to add that to a non abs system. 3. and most important is that in my 91 legacy I have a deep cycle battery sitting in the location of the ABS pump. So I have 2 batteries hooked up in my car now, one for start and run and the other for my power inverter so I need that space freed up. Here might be another option but I dont know. I was thinking I could just rebend the existing lines around the ABS pump and just splice them together and route them along the frame below the pump. I am putting a 2.2 in the car today so I'll have to space to do it and the battery now. So my next question would be is there a brake master cylinder I could use that has the hill holder option and if so what year and model? Thanks for any help. -
2007 Outback XT with a rod knock due to previous turbo failure. Is it possible to swap out the turbocharged engine with a naturally aspirated engine? I imagine that wiring harness & ECM would have to be swapped also. Anyone have any experience with this? My reason for asking is that I purchased this car in December 2011, burned up and replaced turbo in October 2012, now i have a rod knock. I still owe a lot of money on this car, wife is now without a car to haul the kids & get to work. Looking at options such as rebuilding off of a new short block & selling car, purchasing a used engine from salvage & trying to sell car, or if possible converting car to non-turbo and keeping the car. Any info or suggestions would be greatly apprecitated! -
Okay, so I'll try to break this down as detailed as possible. I have a '97 Impreza Outback Sport that has seen better days. It is beat to Hell, and the wiring/interior is all messed up (previous owner on all fronts). It still runs like a champ though. So the other day I accidentally left the door ajar, and the battery died. When I recharged it, the security light was blinking. I did some research, and I haven't been able to get it to shut off no matter what I do. I don't have a remote, so the auto-lock option is a no go. I found the button under the dash, but it did nothing. Upon further examination I found that there was a fuse missing at one wire junction. I put a new fuse in, but now when I hold the button and turn the key to ON, the locks go a couple times, but the light keeps blinking. I've tried disconnecting the battery, turning the key to ON and reconnecting the battery. Doesn't work. I've tried turning the key to ACC multiple times as well. Pretty much everything I've seen as a possibility, I've tried. Nothing works. I haven't fully charged the battery, and I can't drive the vehicle right now, so the blinking light keeps draining the battery. So now I'm wondering, should I try to buy a replacement remote, and hope that works? Or, can I just remove the entire keyless entry module somehow, and just disable the whole system. The thing already doesn't have power locks, so I wont necessarily miss it. Also, could maybe cutting the cord to the light stop it from drawing power? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. -
I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic -
Hey all, Here is me and my wife's new family hauler. Now my xterra can finally just be for work. Loving the mpg on the Subaru. We did some minor aesthetic work. Let me know what you guys and gals think! -
Hi all, I've been replacing my clutch and transmission box on my '99 Outback. But the transmission (both new and old ones) will not slap up against the engine! I've read everything there is to read about re-installing the MT on these OBs, and I've tried everything imaginable with NO RESULTS! See photo links below of input shaft, clutch plate and hole, and the gap that exists between the transmission and the engine. Before you ask, here's what I know: 1. There's nothing blocking the tranny from hitting the engine anywhere. 2. The transmission is definitely the right size. Even the original won't shove back into it's place. 3. I have rotated the input shaft splines 10+ times and tried to shove it in, still won't go. 4. The transmission gets on all bolts, but not all the way up against the engine. 5. The clutch fork and bearing are all installed correctly and not interfering. 6. I have tried getting under the tranny and wiggling it up and down, left to right, a hundred times. No dice. 7. I have re-installed the clutch plate and disc three times, making sure it's facing the correct direction and aligned properly. 8. One of the lower bolts may be slightly bent, but the transmission still goes on all six bolts just fine. And if that one bolt is indeed bent, it's only a very slight, minute bend. Anyone have any ideas on how to finally get this sucker on without breaking anything? I am losing my mind. Here's the photo of the tranny and engine: Photo of input shaft: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k3F3pybq0P...nput+shaft.JPG Photo of clutch: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ElioWP9To...lutch+hole.JPG -
Bought a '98 Subaru in September of 2012 for its superior gas mileage, AWD, spacious interior, and rumored reliability. Three months later, the head gaskets blew while I was on the road, 900 miles from home where I could fix it myself. Cost $2,000 to replace head gaskets, radiator, everything. The day after the repair, the manual tranny died.Towed it home and discovered that the problem is the actual transmission, not the clutch or the flywheel or linkages or fork. Nope, definitely the transmission. I am poor and this car has put me into debt. Any suggestions on what to do with it that will help me regain that $2,000 I spent on all the new engine parts?
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So I have decided rather than putting strut lift blocks on my 1990 legacy to get a cheap 2in lift, I would rather switch out struts from an outback or Forrester. How much lift am I looking for each? What about camber issues? -
I have a few questions on a 5 speed tranny out of a 2000 legacy with the EJ25. Now I heard that in 2000 this was the only year for the 4.10 gear ratio, is this correct? Another one, if that is correct if i were to put it in my 2001 legacy L sedan if I swapped the rear out as well with out messing up the speedo?
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I have a 2000 Outback with just about every option available at the time that is without an engine that is strictly a parts vehicle that I picked up for cheap, and I have a 2001 Legacy L sedan as a daily driver. What I was wondering is that could I take everything off the Outback and put it on my Legacy sedan? Now I know Subaru's are good with running all the wiring and provisions for the options even though they did not come with the car so that all you need is the component, the switch and the fuse or relay. But I would just like to confirm this with some things such as the rear view mirror with the built in compass the heated side view mirrors the AM/FM/tape/6 CD changer/and weather band radio the left and right upper door tweeter speakers Another question is that I would also like to lift my legacy with the outback struts. What all would I need to swap to do this? obviously the struts, but also I heard of swapping the rear control arms off the Outback on to whatever you are putting the on for camber and after that I really don't know. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks, Luke
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Hi All, My wife loves her 2001 outback with 2.5l engine and wants to keep it. It has 175,000 miles and within the last 6 months has developed an oil leak at the head gasket. We re-tightened heads which solved problem temporarily and then added gasket seal to oil as a temp measure and now it is leaking again. We want to keep the car and are willing to pay for a rebuilt engine but have heard that the bottom end of these engines is bullet proof so are wondering if a top end overhail would be best. We are skeptical about the quality of the parts that would come in a rebuilt engine. any thoughts would be appreciated.