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  1. I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy outback limited and today while turning the vehicle off, as per the norm I shifted to P and turned the car off, the key turned from ON to almost at LOCK and won't turn all the way to LOCK to release the key, I can turn back to ACC, ON and START, but It won't turn to LOCK to release the key. The shifter is able to go through all the gears without having to press the brake pedal, whether the car is on or off. I'm at a loss, can't figure out if it's an electrical or mechanical issue, the tumbler or the shift lock on the shifter. If anyone has come across the same issue any help would be appreciated, i just don't want to start throwing parts at it, thanks.
  2. I have a bit of a weird question. January of this year I picked up a 2010 Outback up here in Canada that was originally from the USA, New York State I believe. Plug hanging out the front, just assumed it was for the block heater. I'm under the car recently and see a heating pad on the oil pan, follow the cord and low and behold it's the cord going up the front that I used last winter. I looked around and cannot find another cord anywhere. Unless I'm mistaken, don't all Outbacks come standard with block heaters? I looked up the location of the frost plugs to be sure and I'm sure I was looking at the right spot. On my previous Legacy I had to put a block heater in but I was near a dealership and picked it up there. Since I'm a few hours from one I took a look at Rock Auto and cannot find a listing for one. Am I going crazy? I searched through here but couldn't find anything or anyone else with the same question. Are the block heaters hiding somewhere on the 2010 Outbacks and does Rock Auto not sell them? Thanks in advance!
  3. G'day everybody, First I'd just like to say , Great site, I have visited a couple of times over the past few weeks and found some really good info and advice from members helping others throughout these posts. Ok, so how did I get here. Well about a month ago I raced to an advertised 1998 Outback wagon, the pics showed quite a tidy car at about 1/3 to 1/4 of potential market value but the ad read that the owner thought it may have a blocked radiator. As soon as I arrive he comes out with the keys and then says he'd just come out to start it before I got there but it wouldn't start, he didn't know why and I sensed he was starting to play Possum and saying maybe because he'd reversed it onto the lawn where it was parked, slight incline nose down and wasn't sure where the fuel pickup was located as a possible reason for not starting. As I looked over the rest of the car he said it was running earlier that day, as he was flushing radiator and added fresh coolant, and apparently drove it to its current position. Supposedly it had overheated about a week prior but monitored since then and only just temp higher than normal but not critical. So one mans trash comes a Pir8s Treasure even though I knew he was playing possum and new more about it than he was making out, I was confident that I will be able to get it running still well under market value and end up with a good vehicle. Now I will continue in another forum and let you know where its at and put the feelers out for some of that good advice I mentioned earlier
  4. Hello All, I have a 2003 outback that is in need of some new tires. I am looking to use the vehicle as a daily drive/ trip car (camping, beach, exploring, etc) I am going to spend most of my time on the road, as such, noise, tread-life, and wet weather handling are important. That said, I live in NC, I spend time in the mountains and on the outer banks. I am not looking to ford a river or drive on an island. but some sand, gravel, rock, etc will he negotiated at times. I am looking for a tire that will be practical on the road, but will not leave me stranded if I decide to venture off the road a little bit. Currently looking at continental TrueContact all season. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  5. My 2004 Subaru Outback wagon failed inspection today due to an oil leak. I saw the oily mess under the front end. They cleaned all the oil off the underside and put in UV dye to diagnose the leak. I'm supposed to go back tomorrow for a diagnosis, but I suspect they're going to "diagnose" something super expensive and possibly, totally unnecessary. Why? Because the very first thing they suggested was, "it's probably the head gasket." The head gasket was replaced at 140k miles in 2012 by a Subaru dealership I trust (in another state.) Since then, it's never overheated (never even close!) no white smoke, no coolant issues at all, no chocolate-milky oil goop, no head gasket symptoms. It's at 190k miles now, and the oil was changed just last week. (In another state at my parent's mechanic, he mentioned an oil leak but said it was "nothing serious.") Attached is a photo of the area they cleaned (I drove it 5 miles, took picture.) Can anyone point to a more likely source of the oil leak? I'd like to go in there tomorrow having a clue, but I can't even identify the parts in the photo. That's the oil pan, right? Could it honestly be the head gasket again? So soon? Help? Advice? Pity?
  6. Hello all, I have an '05 Outback with 75k miles. Runs great. LOTS OF WATER accumulating in the front passenger footwell. This also happened last summer. Not related to rain. I'm guessing this is condensation from the a/c that isn't properly draining to the outside of the car...ANY THOUGHTS? Is there a blocked drainage hose or something similar behind the glovebox? I'm hoping I can fix this before MILDEW sets in and stinks up the whole car. Thanks in advance, Jeff in Boston
  7. I have an 02 outback LL Bean 6 Cylinder 3 liter, turbo charged. I have a misfire on 6 Cylinder. Which cylinder is 6?
  8. I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/
  9. 2008 Outback Wagon, just shy of 92K. Had cylinder head gasket issue at 60k (still pissed about that). I've been getting a rattle during startup and when accelerating. Had the oil & filter changed at the Subaru dealership. 2 - 2.5 quarts low (yeah, I should check more often). Rattle diagnosed as rod bearing. Mechanic/manager said "It's not a big deal. Just feather the gas." Really? That sounds like terrible advice. I mean, yeah, I'll take it easy on the engine, I'm not a performance-type driver anyway. How long can I get by like this? Am I driving on borrowed time? Car performs well, it just has the rattle. A buddy of mine who knows his way around an engine, though not Subies, said, "If the dealer isn't trying to bend you over for a major repair, maybe it's OK." So, here I am, getting advice from you.
  10. Have a problem with my 2001 Outback LL Bean wagon front drivers seat. It is the eight way power seat with heat and side air bag, and the problem is with the seat recline feature. In the past, it would occasionally "give" when too much pressure was applied (like when you reach in your back pocket for your wallet in the drive through). Now it won't stay wherever you adjust it to. It will adjust normally if you are not sitting in it, but it "releases" on any pressure put on the seat back. I have lowered the rear seat which helps hold the seat back up, but I obviously can't keep driving it this way. I have pulled the seat out enough to remove the left hand side cover to check the gears. I found no missing or ground down teeth, so I'm thinking it has to do with the gear attachment to the seat back itself?!?! I want to try and get a replacement seat to use while I troubleshoot the original one. What other seats will fit? The only thing I am concerned with is that it has an airbag, as I want to avoid an ABS fault. I don't care if it's cloth or leather, heated or not, manual or electric - just so it bolts in and gets me down the road for now. Help!
  11. I recently bought a used 2002 Outback LLBean. The paint has what my mom cause the Crackle Affect. The paint has very even little cracks everywhere. It kind of looks like an OCD artist decided to put 1/4 inch long key scratches in every which direction, about 3 per square inch. I knew it was this way when I bought the thing- I mostly am curious as to why this happens? I have seen a few other LLBeans with this same paint crack pattern. Any ideas? Thanks!
  12. Hey There! My names Happy. I am a suburu lover with little mechanical skill asking some navigating questions. BASIC STORY: My car crashed, 98 Legacy L, 218,000 miles EJ22 Automatic tranny Needed too much maintenance on top of the raidiator and body work (new brakes, axle boot....more), though the engine and core components seemed fine. Sold it, eventually letting it go to good people for $400. Engine and Tranny seem great. My friend has a 98 Outback, 260,000 EJ25 Manual tranny As I read is common to those, he has burnt valves (not sure which). He's selling the car. Pretty good shape, needs a starter soon, clutch soon maybe. Big story summed up in a few words: these cars have history together, I got the one partially because I liked my friend's, they are the same color, there is some special spirituality stories that go with each of them them and make them like soul mates (long trippy story), and even my buyers had a link in the tale. TURNS OUT, the people that bought my car goofed and needed a different engine. They are waiting to sell it or part it. I believe my EJ22 can go in the 98 outback in place of EJ25. My basic navigating questions: Possible? Practical with those mileage levels? Any random things that might discourage me from trying to make that happen? If you could be hired to do that job, what would you estimate the labor charge? Thank you for your time :-)
  13. Hello, I need a replacement trans for my beater, a 2000 Outback. The OEM trans is one MY only and impossible to find at a reasonable price. The trans code is TY754VCACA. I don't care if the gear ratios are different as long as the axle ratio is the same as the rear, 4.111 and it fits. Does anyone have any recommendations that will fit?
  14. This is my first Subaru, and I love it. It's a '98 Outback with 5-sp manual, about 165,000 miles. Last night I was up-shifting through a corner, driving normally, and suddenly the car just stopped moving. There was no noise or anything. Now I can shift through all the gears without using the clutch, with the car running, and it just sits there. I'm used to clutch failure modes where the clutch slips, or you can't shift, but I've never seen this one. I don't know whether to think it's the clutch, transmission, transfer case, or what. I haven't dumped the codes yet. Anyone ever experience this? Wayne West Michigan
  15. Hi all. I have a 2000 Outback Limited, EJ25 SOHC. It just came to me with 155,000 mi and no idea if/when the timing belt has been done. It also need to remove the rocker covers and replace those seals, as I am getting oil in the spark plug holes. The question is can both the timing belt and rocker covers be done in the car? I have done the same jobs to a 1996 DOHC Outback but that time I already had the engine out, so it was simple. This time I have no other reason to remove the engine, but I can if it makes more sense. The potential benefit of pulling it is, that I can then check the rear seal and the oil separator. But again I have no evidence of a problem there. Any advice is welcome.
  16. Planning on buying an outback this saturday, and have a couple questions 1. Do strut blocks have to be angled on EJ cars like with the EA cars? Looking to do probably 4 inches. I've seen some camber bolts from eibach that offer up to 1.75* of adjustment. Would that be enough? 2. Have any of you guys clearanced your bumpers on an outback? I'm looking to do something like on the GC imprezas where you cut off the lower half. Looking to see some pictures before I start cutting. I was also debating trying to find a legacy bumper that would look good chopped, as I've heard legacy and outback bumpers will swap. Thanks - CL
  17. I'm look at purchasing a new subaru outback 3.6R tomorrow. There are two that I am trying to choose from.....one has wheel moldings the other does not. Please let me know yay or nay and why. Thanks!
  18. I have a 1997 legacy outback with the 2.5 dohc. The other day it would not start. So i hooked up my reader and it said that the crank position sensor wouldn't read. So i replaced it and now there are no codes. However, when i turn the car on the fuel system has an issue. The pump does engage for a few seconds and pumps up tp about 40 psi. However, it doesn't hold that pressure nor will the pump stay running when the engine is being cranked. Any ideas?
  19. Hi all, so a lot has happened since I last posted, right now I'm up to my neck in rebuilding my engine. Sort of. Long story short, my last oil change I decided to try synthetic blend because my buddy kept bugging me about how good it is and how much better it wears and blah blah blah. I know it's good stuff, just when it's used in the right situation. I put blend in and then unknown to me, my engine started leaking oil a lot faster than I realized. One day coming home from work the engine died on me and when I started it again I got a terrible knocking noise. My oil had gotten way too low, and the damage had already been done. All my rod bearings were shot and I just found out my crankshaft is toast. Due to time and money restrictions I've got a reman'd short block on it's way as well as a new clutch and a master seal and gasket kit that has new oil and water pumps. The only thing left is I would like to replace the timing belt and all its paraphernalia. I've looked at the stuff direct from Subaru and I've also looked at kits on eBay and Amazon and I'm not sure which would be better. Can anyone recommend one or the other? I'm not afraid to just get them from Subaru but are the cheaper kits on eBay and Amzon any good? Thanks for any help in advance David
  20. Been a while since I've seen this side of the forum. So, just got myself an 07 OBW, base model with a 5sp stick shift and only 78k on her clock. Runs great, no problems what so ever, purrs like a kitten, lots more power than even my built EA81, goes like the proverbial ape. But on day 5 of ownership (this morning's commute), it kicked out a CEL with a flashing cruise light. Reading up on nastysock and legoGT provided me with at least the idea is that it is emission or oil filter related. I'm going to call the dealership I got it from as I purchased an extended warranty with the car (3yr, 60k) and see what they can do for me. But in the meantime, any of you EJ experts have any clues for me? i may know plenty about EA and early EJ setups, but this new of an EJ is all sorts of different to me. Twitch PS: Yes, there will be a "User's Rides" thread about it, but have to come up with an appropriate name for it... PPS: "The Silver Bullet" is the current placeholder aside from "The Outback"
  21. Hi everyone, I'm sure there are plenty of threads out there discussing suspension lifts on the BG body Legacies. I don't want to add to a stale, broad topic, but simply to document my process in the hopes of helping anyone in the future do what I did and help anyone that has questions. Feel free to ask. I just finished this project tonight, 3/4/2016 at roughly 243,7xx miles. With the spacers and struts, it resulted in roughly a 2" additional ride height over the saggy stockers. Will update with any finds or problems. -I lifted my 1998 Legacy Outback Wagon with 2003 Forester struts and 1" spacers. Here is my story.- BEFORE YOU BEGIN- Make sure you know what you have. This may seem arbitrary, but these instructions only apply to the Outback model Legacy wagon. I cannot guarantee the same process or any advice for the SUS. IMPORTANT: again, Outback only. The Outback comes from the factory with a inch/inch and a half lift over the standard Legacy. Thus, it has spacers between the front and rear subframes, trans mount, and differential mount. These are important and change suspension geometry, most importantly the angle at which the lower control arms will flex and stress the ball joints. The more angle, the more stress. IMPORTANT: know your rig. Lifts will stress ball joints, bushings, and axle shafts more than they were designed to accommodate. Mod away, but mod at your own risk. IMPORTANT: This applies to vehicles keeping the stock tire size. This will work with the original 205/70R15 tires, or 215/65/16 (such as Forester steelies.) Increasing tire size is possible, but more on that later. [here is the "I am not responsible for any issues caused by what you did to your vehicle or their side-effects, improperly aligned headlights, injuries, failed inspections, missing sway bars, unrelated concerns, oil leaks, or other 'ever since...' concerns. This is a modification, not a repair. Nothing is guaranteed. Things may not go as planned and I am in no way responsible for that" disclaimer thing. Happy modding!] WAHT 'SPECIAL EQUIPMENT' YOU WILL NEED ACCESS TO -Spring compressor (rear strut dissassembly) -Alignment equipment -Air tools or high powered battery/electric tools (such as Milwaukee M18 tools) recommended TOOLS -1/2" ratchet or impact -3/8" ratchet or impact -19mm or 3/4" Socket -19mm or 3/4" wrench -12mm socket -14mm socket -14mm wrench -multiple prybars -hammer -flat-head screwdriver and/or punch and/or chisel -cut-off wheel -tricking someone to help you before they realize what you're doing is recommended WHAT I USED: Forester struts -Forester struts from 1999 to 2008 will bolt up no problem. However, 99-02 struts are actually shorter than Outback struts, so using them to gain ride height would be counter-intuitive. I know for a fact 03-04 struts will work, that's what I used. 1" strut spacers -available from many distributors online, such as Gorilla Offroad Company, Subtle Solutions, or nameless eBay sellers. I got mine from Gorilla Offroad. They sent me the wrong rear spacers which I noticed well before installation, but they were very good about correcting my order. No matter who you order from, make sure they fit before you get your rig all apart. Another bonus of getting Forester struts, you can test fit them out of the vehicle. BEFORE INSTALLATION You will need to replace the mounting studs on the struts. You should have gotten hardware with your spacers, which include 12 (at least 2" long) bolts and lock nuts, or longer studs. If you are using the struts currently in your car instead of forester struts, you can skip ahead and come back to this once dissassembly is complete. The front struts are easy, since the mounts spin. You can simply pound these studs out with a hammer, or use a press. The mount can spin to allow you to remove the old stud and install the new stud or bolt. My spacers from Gorilla Offroad came with hardware, as in 12 bolts and lock nuts. The spacers had provisions in them for the nuts to sit in once the spacers were in place. I re-used the top mount nuts. The rear struts are where it gets tricky, since the top mount doesn't spin conveniently out of the way. Therefor, you need to separate the strut mount from the strut assembly, and the rubber insulator from the metal mount. Use a spring compressor for dissassembly. Spring compressors are very dangerous, as they use thousands of pounds to compress the spring. If the spring is not secured properly, it could come loose and cause serious/fatal injury, not to mention property damage. If you do not feel comfortable using a spring compressor, it's better to find a friend who is or bring it to a shop for disassembly/reassembly. If you are comfortable using a spring compressor, compress the spring until you can grab the bottom of the shock absorber and shake it gently so it moves free of the spring. Remove the 17mm nut at the top of the strut, in the middle. If the nut does not break free of the shock absorber, use a pass through socket and a hex socket in the provision in the middle of the stud, or gently grip the shock absorber shaft with pliers to prevent it from spinning (NOT recommended, as it could damage the shock. Only for desperate or brave individuals.) The shock will fall out, so remove the top mount from the spring, pull back on the rubber insulator (it grips around the center, spray with silicone lubricant to break free) and replace the studs. Re-assemble strut. Repeat for other side. THE DIRTY WORK -hoist vehicle off wheels -remove front wheels -remove the 12mm bolt holding on the ABS wheel speed sensor wire. Be careful not to let the mount twist and break the wire. (ask me how I know) -use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to remove clip holding on the break hose to the bracket. -you may find that the brake hose passes through the bracket, which cannot be removed, and must be opened to be removed. I recommend against this as it could lead to more problems, such as bleeding the brakes, bleeder screws breaking hose fittings being too damaged/corroded to reuse, etc. In that case, I used a cutoff wheel to notch the bracket, being careful not to damage the brake hose, until I could use a screwdriver/chisel/punch to break the mount and bend it out of the way. -Remove the 19mm (3/4") nuts and bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. The top bolt is the camber adjustment bolt, so it is cammed. Be careful not to spin it with an impact to avoid damaging it. -remove the three 12mm nuts holding the top of the strut to the vehicle. The strut will fall out the bottom, so be ready to catch. -install the new lift strut, reversing the removal procedure. NOTE: resecure the brake hose to the bracket. Zip-ties will most likely fail a safety inspection, just as a side note. -getting the knuckle bolts in is where a helper comes in handy. You will need to pry and push and jiggle the strut and knuckle around until you can line up one of the holes and put the bolt in. One one is in, it goes easier. Remember, the TOP bolt is the cammed, camber adjustment bolt. Since camber goes positive during suspension decompression on a macpherson strut system, install this so the camber is most negative, as in the top of the knuckle moves away from you as much as it can be adjusted. -tighten all of your mounting bolts and double check your work. Move to the rear. -remove rear wheels and repeat removal process. You should not have an ABS speed sensor to worry about in the strut this time, though. -disconnect the rear sway bar by removing the 14mm nut and bolt. Remove the mounts, and the sway bar if you wish. You will not be able to reconnect it after the lift using the original end links. It's not that much more body roll, I promise. -to gain access to the rear mount studs from the interior, fold the backseats forward and locate the access trim panel over the strut tower. Remove the Christmas tree style fastener closer to the seat, on the side, then pull up to remove the trim. Remove the insulation set on top of the mount. -to remove the strut, you will need to wrestle the lower part away from you, down between the trailing arm and front-most control arm, so the strut can be moved down enough to pull the top out first. -once the strut is removed, it is a good idea too inspect your shock towers for rust. Here in the salt belt, every Subaru I see in they junkyard that doesn't have a hole in the block has a rear strut tower blown through from rusting out, unusually the left side. Look carefully both on the inside and outside of the vehicle. Pull back the carpeting and insulation in the cargo area a bit to check for rust. A coating of rustproofing while you're there isn't a terrible idea. -before installing the new strut, clean, buff, and slightly spread the lower mount bracket for ease of installation. Use a cut off wheel or a sawzall to remove the brake hose bracket. If left in place and used, it will pull the hose too far down and stress the upper section of the hose. If left on and not used, it will rub against the hose and cause risk of hose failure. The lift will cause the hose to be pulled down more, so there is less slack and actually ensures the hose won't go anywhere it shouldn't. -reverse removal procedure to install. -there is no easy way to get the rear knuckle into the strut. There just isn't. I used a 54" prybar against the trailing arm and the center of the rear subframe, and jostled the knuckle around until the holes lined up. This is the hardest part. Again, where a helper comes in handy. -complete the reassembly, double check everything, and put the wheels on. -alignment time! ALIGNMENT -I actually found the alignment is not affected as much as I thought it would be for a lift. When I put my car on the machine, the rear camber was out of spec, positive by only one tenth of a degree on the left, and less than a tenth on the right. Rear toe was still in spec. Front camber was also surprisingly in spec for a blind adjustment. -due to differences in setups and vehicle condition, your alignment may be different. If it is out of spec, have it fixed. Camber causes excessive wear on the inner (negative) and outer (positive) shoulders of the tire. Rear toe could cause dog-tracking or diagonal wipe (which destroys tires something fierce). I hope this helps anyone considering the project and wondering how involved it is. Having the studs installed in the struts beforehand, it took me between 3 and 4 hours with shop air and a vehicle lift. Any questions, I will answer to the best of my ability. Happy modding!
  22. So I just sunk $1300 into replacing the head gaskets on my 98 Legacy Outback Limited. Got the car back and everything was fine. Drove it up north over the weekend (~200 miles) and on the way back the engine lost power while cruising at 70MPH. It sort of lurched forward as if I were running out of gas (which I wasn't). I attempted to start the car after this and the AT Oil Temp light came on and flashed 16 times. I drove about another 1/4 mile before it died again. I got the car towed home and figured I'd take it to my mechanic the next day. Well I tried to start it and now I have nothing. No crank, nothing but a faint *click* sound when I turn the key. Anyone have this problem happen before? I can't think of anything that would cause my car to both die on the highway, trigger the AT Oil Temp light, AND no crank no start afterwards. But maybe the problems are unrelated. In either case, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do with it at this point. Any advice is appreciated.
  23. Hey all, Recently I've been considering getting a hitch for my car, a 98 legacy outback. It may sound stupid, but I want one for the sole purpose of having a spare tire carrier on the back of the car (cause off-road, brah) so it doesn't need to be wired or haul anything more than a forester steelie. My only worry is, and I'm hoping someone has experience with this, are there hitches out there that don't require drilling, but does anyone know if those claims are true? I've only seen one or two of these cars with a hitch. Also, mine is a late build 98, so the charcoal canister is right on the rear frame like a 99. Would this interfere? Thanks! EDIT: and how trustworthy is UHAUL? I work in a shop and have seen more than one horrific, scary, poor quality, and downright dangerous trailer wiring job done by them, but can they just put a hitch on for me if it requires drilling or something?
  24. How long does a typical tranny last on an Outback? I am looking at 03's and newer do to the hg horrors. How do the Legacy Outabcks compare to normal Outbacks? Also, in shopping for a new subu I stumbled upon one, and I was hoping for some thoughts. Im in central utah and I found a 05 Legacy outback with a clean title. It is has a 2.5 l and the engine just had the valve cover gaskets, oil seals, exhaust gaskets, return houses, timing belt, head gaskets, and brake pads replaced. 190,000 miles. Asking 4,100. The inside and outside is in good shape. It seems like a good deal, but I worry that that all the overhaul implies something bad... Help me out? Oh yeah!? I am seeing lots of 05 outbacks on the market- coincidence, or carpocolyps?
  25. Hi all, My name is Mark, and I just bought my '16 outback. New to the Subaru brand, and looking forward to lots of years, and lots of fun. I would be interested if there are any owners clubs that meet in person, not just online? Living in the midwest, I see lots of Subarus on the road, but finding a local owners club is proving a bit of a challenge. Don't get me wrong, online is fine, but there's something about shaking hands, and sharing stories in person (maybe making some new stories together!) that appeals to my social nature. Any info on local/regional owners clubs would be appreciated. Have a great day, Mark
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