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Vehicles

  1. Hi all, Looking for advice. I am looking at purchasing a 2007 OBW. 2.5i, 5mt with 245k on it. It's from an online auto-auction site, that just happens to have their physical address 5 minutes from my house. It's priced at about $1000. I'm able to go look at it, so that is a plus. Anyway, thoughts. Right now I'm assuming that the motor and/or the transmission is shot. I have the transmission/clutch covered, as I have a 5mt from an '05 LGT wagon with about 60k on it, and the clutch is brand new. Motor though, is a different question. Again, I assume it is toast. So, I wanted to know if anyone has ever bought a jdm import from ebay? They claim to have 50-60k on them, and the price is around $1900. If I go that route, should I replace all gaskets before throwing the motor in? Or, should I try and find a short-block/long block from any of the subaru dealers, costing close to $3k? I'm also assuming that the suspension will be tired, and possibly the brakes. Other than that, what else should I consider with this high mileage of OBW? I'm unfamiliar with this generation, so what else should I be looking at having failed or about to? My total price range for everything is $5500-$6000. I've looked at quite a few used cars from that price range, and I only find Subarus that are high mileage and beat-to-crap/neglected by their owners. I'm not really open to jumping to a new platform (GM, Ford, Honda, etc) as I very familiar with subaru, and my time is limited. UNLESS someone has a very compelling argument to do so. The goal is to have a dependable car for at least the next 6 years so that I can get through grad-school and my first few years of work while I pay my loans off. I have to do clinical rotations next year, and because of Covid and its ripple-effect(s), there's a good chance that I'll have to commute a long distance for at least one 12-week rotation. As long as the interior isn't burnt away from a fire, I am fine putting seat-covers on. I really just need the drivetrain (and I guess the A/C since I live in the desert) to work dependably. Are these motors (EJ253, SOHC correct?) prone to oil consumption? Or leakage like all subarus? If I buy one from the dealer, will it still have consumption issues if so? Thanks for your time guys, Greg https://www.copart.com/lot/43891860/clean-title-2007-subaru-legacy-outback-2-5i-nv-las-vegas (please don't buy it out from under me) @1 Lucky Texan@GeneralDisorder@Fairtax4me@Rampage
  2. Howdy. I am needing to replace the front struts on my recently purchased (after saving for over a year) 05 baha sport. Local auto parts stores dont carry the front struts! And I'd like to get the full strut assembly, to save my frustration level, time and worn out body. Being a female shade tree machanic (lol) doesn't have the appeal at 63 as it did at 33! I'm confused when trying to research because some say the legacy will interchange but according to O'Riellys the outback interchanges with the baja (2000 - 2004 outback with 2003 -2006 Baja) and yes I know there are legacy outbacks and Impreza putbacks. I previously owned an Impreza outback sport. And the front end took a dive on it as well. I'm hoping to advert a repeat with my Baja, I just love this little wanna be truck! Any help or direction sincerely appreciated!
  3. I'm looking to upgrade my 2007 Outback with a little stiffer suspension since I often haul a lot of equipment or tools in the back of the car. I believe I read somewhere a long time ago that one could install the struts and springs from a 2000 - 2004 Outback into these newer Subaru's to beef up the suspension a little. Does anyone have info on this conversion or anything that would help me get a stronger set-up on the rear suspension?
  4. Is there a formula to use for a 3” lift when i extend the strut bottom to drill the bottom hole to maintain the stock camber the picture is for a buick the bottom hole is new the top two are stock and are inline with each other it looks like the bottom one is drilled at a offset any help would be great.
  5. Hi Folks!, Any one got a line on where to get new front struts for my 1980DL? All the usual suppliers (RockAuto, Summit Racing, AutoZone, Napa & O'Reilly's) have only rear shocks. Thanks in advance for your help!
  6. I thought this dead horse could use a little more beating. I would like to lift my 96 Legacy Outback. With the intention of putting on larger tires, as you do. Currently my 205 70 15 tires are about a 1/4" from the rear strut spring perch. (i think that's what it's called). Which year struts should I use for the front and rear? Would a small wheel spacer help? I figure if those can get me a couple more inches i may get some 235 70 15 under it. Thanks!
  7. Hi y'all, I've done a lot of searching on this subject, and I was led to believe Forester struts are a direct swap onto a 98 Legacy (non-Outback), to give a little lift. I bought a set of FCS complete strut assemblies (for an 05 Forester) and brought them to a local shop for install on my 98 Legacy. They say they will not bolt on. What am I missing? Did I get the wrong year Forester struts, or do I need to swap out top hats or something? Maybe I should've just gone with '98 Outback struts/springs? Thanks so much for the help! :)
  8. The attached photo is from How to Keep Your Subaru Alive. I installed my Gen1 Brat (no power steering) struts as per top picture. With the top of the shock in the rearward position. Based on the fact it's 4WD; and not a Sedan or Hatchback. Is this correct? And if it correct, has anyone experimented with fitting them the other way round. I have some ideas of what I think this would achieve but rather than describe them (because I could be wrong) I thought I would see what other peoples thoughts are on this.
  9. I was wondering if there are any suspension upgrades that can easily be done for hauling more weight and handling large pot holes better? I am moving 1500 miles away and all I can bring it what will fit on a small tailer and in the car. I am looking to run about 1000-1200# total trailer weight. I have installed a hitch and tailer harness. Are their any rear suspension upgrades to help handle the tongue weight (will keep it between 100-150#) plus about 300# of clothes and tools that will be in the car?
  10. Hi Starting this project thread to show my progress in making my Legacy -94/95 more suitable for the winter forest roads. This will be a long time project that starts with fixing the breaks. I hope I will be up and runing with this project later this week. /slugg
  11. Just picked up a beautiful 79 brat, but I'm wanting to replace the struts. I've poked around a little but can't seem to find any part numbers. Anyone have any recommendations? Has anyone used the KYB GR-2/EXCEL-G SHOCK ABSORBER?
  12. I'm upgrading the suspension on my 92 Loyale wagon that is getting lifted 2". I am thinking of going with King Springs and need new shocks as well. Lordco sells Moog and Monroe and I often hear about KYBs on here. What are the pros/cons and what would mate best with some Kings? I read up as much as possible and couldn't answer this question. Thanks.
  13. I done some digging in the various forums but can't seem to find the answer. I have a 1990 Legacy wagon with only 140k on it. I've done the front struts but the parts store wants stupid prices for the rears. I've seen that I can swap top hats and use later model struts but i can't find exact information. If anyone has some for sale I'd be interested. I'm sure I need springs too. AFIK OEM is still in there from when my dad bought it new in 1990. You can also reply to mcopeland at pobox dot com Thanx, Mike
  14. Hey guys, just wanted to see if anyone had input or experience regarding this bearing/washer combo I came across whilst googling. I have a car with cheap coil sleeves installed on stock struts, and I'm doing a bit of troubleshooting. By the way, I am aware that that last sentence contains atrocious words(cheap coil sleeves, stock struts).. Words that only a young man with a microscopic budget would utter. Try to get past that before you bust the flamethrower out. SO, the car in question has a pretty bad case of "coil-bind" or "spring bind." That's not really a common term, so if you haven't heard of it, here's what I know: we're obviously talking about a macpherson strut setup here, so the strut and spring turn when the steering wheel turns. My springs get hung up somehow, if you get what I mean. There is tension in the steering wheel, particularly when stopped and turning the wheel. The tension builds and "pops," which is audible both inside and outside the car, and can be felt in the steering wheel. The "binding" doesn't just happen when stopped, so say you come to a stop and turn the car 90 degrees to the right. The springs don't want to rotate smoothly, and they make a little pop noise as you crank the wheel. The car now pulls to the right, as the spring doesn't want to rotate back to it's normal position after the turn is complete. They are square end springs, I feel as if the issue is pretty clear(in my head) and the base of the spring is just not rotating properly, particularly since it's under so much pressure. These roller thrust bearings I came across seem like they could be a solution. If not a complete fix, maybe they would "reduce the symptoms" a bit. Has anyone seen this in action on a car, or really anything in real life? I think the consensus will be that I should buy some and try it out, but I just wondered if any of you physics-inclined folks would have valuable input. I would appreciate it, and do flame on if you feel it is necessary. Here are two links that are relevant: Eibach Torsion Release Bearings TRB250 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing QA1 Coil-Over Shock Thrust Bearing Kits 7888-109 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Thanks in advance, Subaru Gods.
  15. I'm replacing the struts on the Brat, and the new ones look nothing like the old ones. I know this is a common issue with aftermarket parts, but these look so different I think I got the wrong ones. What do you think?
  16. Any one have any leads or a pair of XT6 front springs?? Im trying to put them under an 82 gl with new struts to get a little bit of drop and stiffer spring rate. This should work right?? Any help/tips are much appreciated! thanks all!
  17. Hello out there this is my first time on this board as I just acquired an '85 GL wagon and have heard from many that it could make a good off-roader. Wondering if you guys can give me ideas on ways to lift its clearance and good wheels and tires that can go off-road but also handle the highway without killing gas mileage and my wallet...
  18. Suspension on my '95 Legacy is pretty shot (well at the least the rear for sure) I keep hearing that Outback struts will bolt right up and lift the car about 1.5 to 2 inches. I think this is a great idea. But I feel like there is more to it? Do I need outback springs? spacers? anything like that. If anyone can give me any leads/video's/info on this swap. That'd be Great. thanks- travis
  19. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01049330.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Struts+KYB+W0133-1615015+Front+82-87+Subaru+Strut+Assembly+1985+1983&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COzk5eWCxbwCFUiGfgod-xcA-w Will these work on my 82' 4WD Gl wagon? And has anybody done this? how much lower are they than the 4WD struts? and can i use the stock 4WD springs? thanks guys!
  20. My question here is can you use kyb struts for stock replacement but use a shorter spring to get even just an inch lower? if so is there a spring I can get or would it be alright to just cut the stock springs? This is a 82' 4WD GL. also what about the back? I know I can adjust the torsion bar but idk where its sitting at the moment and if it will get low enough to match the front.
  21. 98 Leg. OB, It just turned over to 200,000mi. and had my 2.5 replaced w/ a 2.2, got 4 new tires and plan to replace exhaust, so I plan to get by on my old "muscle car" for another year or until I can buy a near new one. The back driver side strut was bad, so I replaced it. The passenger rear and front struts seem ok and don't sag or bounce. Since I got new tires, I plan to get a 4 wheel alignment soon $85. Q: Should I go ahead and buy a rear passenger side strut and install even if it seems OK? It took me a lot more time than most would take so I cringe at the thought of getting those bolts back into place, busten knuckles, praying I can finish what I started, etc. but will do it if I REALLY SHOULD. Otherwise, I'll get it aligned and put the $ toward a new exhaust system. This is my 3rd and I really love my OBs, (except for the 2.5 head gaskets and timing belts that kept failing). Hope the 2.2 solves that issue. Appreciate educated guesses from anyone who's been there done that, or at least sounds convincing.
  22. Hey Everyone. I have a '95 Legacy LS. I'm pretty sure it's about time to change the struts. I believe they are original parts on a legacy with 350k on it. I was thinking about putting some outback struts on it, hopefully giving it 1 to 1-1/2 inch lift. Just enough room for a slightly more aggressive tire. I'm not sure if I can just swap the struts out or do I need to swap other parts out in addition to make it all compatible. Thanks for any input you have Travis.
  23. Hey Everyone. I have a '95 Legacy LS. I'm pretty sure it's about time to change the struts. I believe they are original parts on a legacy with 350k on it. I was thinking about putting some outback struts on it, hopefully giving it 1 to 1-1/2 inch lift. Just enough room for a slightly more aggressive tire. I'm not sure if I can just swap the struts out or do I need to swap other parts out in addition to make it all compatible. Thanks for any input you have Travis.
  24. Hey guys, new member here. I recently aquired a silver 87 GL-10 turbo wagon with air suspension and the 3 speed automatic. I essentially got the car for free so I figured if it ran, I'd spend some time and a little money trying to get it running good so I'll have a winter car. It sat for probably 2 years, at least, up in the woods of the northwest. Encouragingly the car started right up with a jump, and it actually drove over 180 miles down to where I live without any needed repairs. So far, the problems I’ve found with the car are limited to the push-button 4WD not engaging( which may be a bad button is all) and more importantly...the air suspension will not lift the car. When I turn the key to ON, the compressor starts running and continues to do so for about 8-10 minutes then shuts off. After it shuts off, the light begins to blink on the dash indicating that there is an error. I’ve found very little technical information on this system that I can effectively use to properly troubleshoot the problem. The little that I have found has informed me that the behavior I just described usually occurs when a leak is present in the system. Because the ride height does not change after 8-10 minutes of the compressor running, the computer assumes there is a leak so it shuts off and projects an error code to the driver. I also read somewhere( and I could have this wrong, please let me know) that the computer will always try to raise the rear of the car BEFORE the front. So, with this in mind I removed the plastic and carpet from the back of the car and checked the air lines for holes. I found out that mice had literally severed the air line going to the passenger-side rear wheel. I bought a couple air-line bridges(blanking out on what they’re actually called) and patched the line. As of right now that’s the only defect I can find in the air system. After fixing that though, the system still does the same thing. It runs for 10 minutes without any change in elevation, and then shuts off leaving me with nothing but a blinking dash again. What I’m hoping for is for someone who has had experience with these air systems to suggest some things to try. Or that possibly someone who has a technical shop manual for the 80’s GL’s could take a gander at the pages detailing air suspension troubleshooting and post some suggestions...maybe even some scans One observation that I’m not sure is important, is that my dad unhooked the middle hose from the compressor that goes to the tank. We noted that he was able to blow air INTO the compressor...which seems like something irregular. But I’m not sure. Maybe it needs a new diaphram? Help me out. Oh and before everyone starts chiming in saying that I should just tear out the air suspension.. I’m not going to put that much work into this car lol Plus, everything seems to be in good condition, the car has 150,000 miles. Thanks in advance guys.
  25. having serious regrets about messing around w/ my Loyale, "Joan Crawlins" after i finally had her in the best shape she's been in since i got her last Winter in Penn. everything was great as stock, but then i put in a 2" inch lift to gain clearance over sand in btwn the tracks on a rutted out access road to the beach. that messed up the camber of the front wheels something awful (pics here: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs) and after tracking down some 15" alloy pugs in a junkyard in Pennsylvania and ordering lugs from Dan in Sacramento, i thought that would help the camber issue, but it didn't solve nearly enough for daily driving. so pulled the lift kit out, but kept the pugs on and had to cut a bunch of the wells out cause i was getting lots of rubbing since my suspension was in bad shape. put in new struts in the front which helped, gonna put in struts in the back in the next couple days, but having no luck finding coils for the front. CAN I USE COILS FOR ANOTHER SUBARU that are easily available? like a legacy? if so, what should i get? also, now my camber is ok in the front, i'm getting positive camber in the back, which i can only guess was as a result of putting in and taking out the lift in the back. once i put in new struts in the back and hopefully coils in the front, and then get everything aligned professionally, will my camber issues be solved, theoretically? just ruing my decision to have changed anything at this point, but all's not lost by along shot and if i can get the suspension finished and the alignment solves the camber, i'll be happy to have the Pugs on rather than the stock 13"s. here's a look at where i'm at now: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues @175eya @CoyotePaws @Mechanical_Misfit thanks for the help folks, as always, i'm eternally grateful for the advice and support. -Glen
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