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Found 4 results

  1. I've noticed a very annoying thing lately. When I'm driving on the highway in 5th gear (MT) and apply full throttle I can feel the power increase from the VVL, but I notice that sometimes it pulses and doesn't want to apply smoothly. This causes a slight power surging and if I slowly let off the gas I feel a point that actually accelerates better with less throttle. Could this be a bad VVL solenoid, or something with the fuel mixture? Im at a loss. It seems like bad engineering to use two separate oil pressure sensors for the VVL system since oil pressures could be different on the two sides of the engine, so the VVL system doesn't engage at the same time.
  2. Hello, I have a 2006 Legacy 2.5I Automatic When I am drive @ 65-75 MPH with Cruise Control on, and the car is between a hill and flat area, I can feel the car "accelerate" then "decelerating " more that I think it is suppose to. I run 93 octane fuel. Injectors were professionally cleaned and tested. New Plugs, Ignition Coil(Subaru), Ignition Wires (Subaru), Timing Belt New (Subaru) all new components (Subaru) The engine runs smooth. I just notice this when cruise is on going up a hill. Thoughts?
  3. Ok I recently purchased a 1989 GL With a 1.8L vin 5 Fuel injected, non-turbo, and I'm having some issues as it was very poorly taken care of Mechanically. It has been a very long time since I've dealt with these old computers When I first recieved it I bet it only had 45HP as it ran very poorly, and the throttle cable was so far out of adjustment it could only open the throttle half way. The day I got it I found that...... and I found that both Differentials were almost empty, so I flushed them and the trans, and the radiator for preventitive mainteneance. Next thing I found was the Service plug and code read plug were both plugged in the entire time, after unplugging I found codes 32, 33, 34, 35, 45, 51, 61. O2 sensor was bad by measurements, VSS was good code never returned, EGR Soloniod was open, found 3 vacuum lines effecting the EVAP and transmission, kick down relay was bad and replaced, Nuetral and park switch codes never returned. Shortly after that my Grandmother died and I had to drive 500 miles from NC to Ohio, so no more time to play with it for that two weeks, but I got there just fine to find it snowing a about an inch an hour, and the temperature dropped to -11f car ran fine (still lacking in power) but 4x4 worked like a charm, and it started every time in the deep cold. On the way back I got stuck driving through an average of 3" of snow the entire way (tires are at 3/32) and managed just fine except a few exceptions as I had to stop several times to knock the snow out of my wheel wells, as well as it was pouring out white smoke behind me, the first two times it was due to snow build up on the Catalyst But the third time it was because the upper RAD hose let go (glad I stopped) Left the cap loose and made it home just fine. Day After I got home I was on my way to work and lost both of my heater hoses and got my engine steam cleaned for free, needless to say the cold took it's toll on it and I replaced all remaining coolant hoses. Anyway, recently I fianlly had a chance at tuning it up and testing everything else. I found the spark plugs Gapped at .75 they were so worn out, replace the cap and rotor ran probably 5 tanks of dry gas threw it since it sat for so long, (still need tires), Found the fuel filter clogged and replace it, Cleaned the throttle body, replaced the clogged PCV Valve, Measure fuel pressure at 22 PSI, no change if I unplug the regulator, but can stall the engine if I spray into the vacuume line to the engine so I know it is free and clear. So that is what I did, my questions are.............. I have a light surging at partial throttle, and an engine light for code 32 (O2 Sensor) .... is my fuel pressure still to low? If I clamp the return line the fuel pressure will spike to 55 PSI. I don't remember these cars that well from my years past so I hope you guys do......... what can cause that in these if not fuel pressure, I't's pretty close to specs. I was not able to ge the throttle to open 100% by adjusting it (maybe 90%) so maybe I have the wrong TB unit? The engine Compression tests as new, and looks like it has been done minus a leaking cam seal (probably have to be sleaved) unless god forbid it is the oil pump leaking. My main question is what all can throw a code 32 (O2) and what are your insights on everything else like the surging. I'm a 20 year veteran of the field, have had my ASE Master for al of them, but I am by no means a 1989 Subaru expert. I still have a lot of work to do to it, 4 struts, 2 axles, cam seal, tires. Bought it for $800..........
  4. I have a 2000 Subaru Impreza it has 130,000 miles on it. Problems started a few months back and I have tried several things to fix it to no avail. It hesatates when starting off then gets a surge of power once over 2500 rpm in every gear. It has a very bad jerking and bucking. The first thing I tried was to replace the fuel filter, then plugs. I then got codes and it said the accerator positon sensor was bad, along with downstream O2 sensor. I have replaced both of these still not better. I had the codes read again and now it says the idle sensor is bad? My question is would this cause the problems I'm having?
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