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Showing results for tags 'timing belt'.
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I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.- 11 replies
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I have a outback impreza with about 130K miles on it, and I would like some help with what brand or type of transmission fluid I should get? i have never done the transmission fluid change, so i decided to hop on this forum to find help from more knowledgeable people. Also I heard that if i am going to change the front that i should also change the fluid in the back differential, is that correct? My other problem I have noticing or hearing is screeching sounds from my belt(s). The first time i heard the screeching sound would be when i would turn on my ac in the car. Every time the ac is turned on, the screeching sound would be there for a few seconds and go away then some times it screeches as i would be driving. Any advice on either topic would be awesome! Thx! -
I just bought a 2002 Forester L with 50,000 miles. It's in great shape but I don't know if the timing belt has ever been replaced. I think they're supposed to be replaced at 105K, but since it may be 14 years old, should I do it now. I only drive about 300 miles per week. Also, should I replace the pulley assembly too or will they be ok because of the low miles? I'm a Subaru newbie so please let me know if there's anything else I should look out for on the first gen Forester. -
Hi all, so a lot has happened since I last posted, right now I'm up to my neck in rebuilding my engine. Sort of. Long story short, my last oil change I decided to try synthetic blend because my buddy kept bugging me about how good it is and how much better it wears and blah blah blah. I know it's good stuff, just when it's used in the right situation. I put blend in and then unknown to me, my engine started leaking oil a lot faster than I realized. One day coming home from work the engine died on me and when I started it again I got a terrible knocking noise. My oil had gotten way too low, and the damage had already been done. All my rod bearings were shot and I just found out my crankshaft is toast. Due to time and money restrictions I've got a reman'd short block on it's way as well as a new clutch and a master seal and gasket kit that has new oil and water pumps. The only thing left is I would like to replace the timing belt and all its paraphernalia. I've looked at the stuff direct from Subaru and I've also looked at kits on eBay and Amazon and I'm not sure which would be better. Can anyone recommend one or the other? I'm not afraid to just get them from Subaru but are the cheaper kits on eBay and Amzon any good? Thanks for any help in advance David -
I bought a 1999 Legacy Outback with about 120,000 miles. The garage I bought it from said the timing belt had been replaced once, but didn't know when. What is theexpected life of a timing belt? The nearest Subaru dealership quoted a time of 3 hours to replace the belt. Two other garages said the same thing. One garage said on a Subaru that's a big job and would take about 13 hours. Who is right, the dealership, and garages that said 3 hours or the one that said 13 hours? Could the 3 hour quotes be for replacement of the belt only and the 13 hour quote be for replacement of the belt, pulley and water pump? Is it always necessary to replace everything? -
I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets. -
Hi, I'm in need of some serious help. I will try to give the short version, and as detailed as possible to try not to take up too much of anyone's time. Ok here it goes.... I had a water leak on my 2000 Legacy 2.5 motor SOHC. I checked all the hoses, everything seems fine. Notice that while filling up the radiator with coolant a steady stream was just pouring from the bottom of the engine, and upon further inspection it seems like it's coming from underneath the timing belt cover. The car has 154,000 mi on it....I figured it was time to change the water pump perhaps. I did this job years ago on my other Subaru which was an older DOHC engine. I know that I did a lot of things wrong in this job. I'm going to get to all of that shortly. When removing the timing belt, I didn't make good marks (yes I know!) The notch on the crank sprocket wasn't exactly at 12 oclock position when I took off the timing belt. It was 'kind of' but not there. It was closer to say...12:30, near that notch marker on the oil pump, but you could clearly see that it was not lined up. As I took off the timing belt the driver's side cam immediately sprung closed. Like I said, I did this before on a DOHC motor. I watched one of briansmobile's videos in the past that discussed the SOHC timing belt, but neglected to watch it again, or consult any other resource before I started this job. So I continued with removing and replacing the water pump and went back to the computer to look at some resources before I put the car back together. I viewed some threads on this board, and in a few youtube videos that I watched that pretty much says, if both left and right cams, and crank are all lined up to 12:00 to the notches up there the car should run fine. I did exactly that, line up the notches, reattach everything. The car does not start. Bummer. I went back to the internet now to look at this information in detail to find where/how I could have gone wrong and this is where I am stuck. 1. I heard that to line up the notch on the crank you should turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise no more than 90 degrees till you get it on the mark. Line up the cams and you are good. This I did NOT do. The notch went around a full 360 degrees once, maybe twice before I lined it up. The reason why I believe it went twice is because it is hard for me to see down there, I had a flashlight aimed toward the notch and I missed it the first time, I just kept going back around until it came back again. Then I lined it up. When lining up the cams, I turned both of them counter clockwise to find the notches. I did turn the crank bolt over 2x to make sure that everything was lined up, and when it went 720 the lines did all come back to 12:00 (although the notch on the crank still looks a little off to the right by my eye). I noticed that when I turned the engine 360 degrees that the notches on the cam point to 6:00 and the notch on the crank goes to 12:00. What I did was I turned the engine into this position, loosened the belt again and turned the cams to 12:00 and put it back together. This time the car started, however it runs horrible for about 10-15 seconds then it stalls out. When I try to give it a little gas it chokes. I don't hear any knocking or anything like that. It just runs like crap, and definitely not long enough, or under enough power to move on it's own even one inch. I am glad that at least the car started a bit. I tried to take off the belt, make minor adjustments like rotating the right side cam 360 then put it back on, and then the left. I did this over the weekend and still no luck. It still started, however ran just as rough, and now I'm stalling out in 5 seconds or less. I didn't do anything else for fear of messing up the engine majorly. I hope I didn't mess anything up already. My car ran great before I decided to change the water pump. No check engine lights. I didn't mess with the cam position sensor, or the crank position sensor either. All I touched was the water pump/timing belt/tensioner. The tensioner/belt appear to be in good condition. The belt feels tight on reassembly. What I'd like to know is is there some kind of way to know is there a certain kind of way to know if everything on the inside of this engine is in alignment? The videos I see are very helpful, but they only go into detail of how to take off a timing belt, make marks, small adjustments, reattach. What I've done is..... 1. I've lost track of how many times I spun the crank in a full circle with the belt disconnected. 2. I've lost track of how many times I spun the cams around in a full circle, and they have each been spun a different number of times (sigh) What I am hoping will save me (hopefully) is that I didn't make any attempt to start the car until I had all 3 notches pointed at 12:00. Please PLeeeease help if you can. My car has been down for two weeks now. I drive 40 miles to work each day and the only reason I got a little time to breathe is because it's the holidays and a lot of people aren't in the office. In a short period of time everything is going to get busy again. I really need my car. To whoever is reading, I know that I said I would keep it as short as possible, I did try. However after looking at other people's posts who had similar problems I figured I'd try to say as much as I can as to where I am at so you know all the steps that I've done already. Thanks for reading :-) -
I ordered a timing belt kit from RockAuto (GATES TCKWP254 ) because RA said it was the right fit for my '98. After receiving the kit I've realized that there are different timing belt tensioners and RockAuto and Amazon show both types as being the right "fit" for my car. Can anyone give me a hand? How do I know if this (see image) is the right tensioner for my car? I'm not going to get a chance to take it apart until next week and I'd rather not get it all apart and then find out I have the wrong one... I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy L Wagon (2.2). Is there a VIN digit or something I should look at to figure out which one of these i'd need? Thanks in advance! -Mike
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okay so i have been working on this thing for over two months now. I originally was only going to change the timing belt on my 2009 Subaru outback. I changed it and put everything back together but it wouldn't start. I took it back apart and changed the valves because they were bent, and changed the head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, and the spark plugs. I put it back together and lined the timing marks and now it will not start it only backfires... it will crank but it doesn't fully start just backfires. -
Hello everyone. I have a '97 Outback Sport with the stock EJ22. I was replacing the timing belt and the front oil seals. I had everything back together, and had rotated the engine forward several times with no trouble. I decided to use the belt tension to torque the cam nuts, and when doing the passenger side one, I think the cam slipped forward a few teeth on the belt. Sure enough, I rotated the engine again and somewhere after one or two revolutions of the crank, I hit a blockage and it wouldn't turn any further. I rotated it backwards (counter-clockwise) to try and get it back to zero and I found it was blocked after a certain point too. I pulled the timing belt and zeroed everything only to put it back together and find I can't tun the crank more than a quarter turn clockwise and it won't turn more than a half-turn counter-clockwise. I pulled all the plugs and that didn't change anything. I just took the belt off again, and zeroed everything. Without the belt on, the crank won't turn freely more than a 1/4 turn and a 1/2 turn in those directions. The cams turn freely, but advance forward on their own quite a bit when turing, possibly from the lobes? At no point has the car been started since I took everything apart. All of the turning has been done by hand with a ratchet. Any ideas what could be wrong? The crank is physically blocked by something. Is this thing hopelessly screwed up? At this point I'm considering towing it to a shop, but I don't want to spend a lot of money to be told I need a new engine. -
I see bits and pieces on other posts but can't find exactly what I need. I had my cylinder heads rebuild at the machine shop. I need a timing kit (looks like gates is the consensus here), rings and bearings, head gaskets (I can get wholesale price on Fel-pro at Napa), and a complete engine gasket set. The machine shop is quoting $600.00 and it's mostly JDM parts. There are so many cheap sets on Ebay that I don't know where to buy. Are Cometic any good. I have read yes and no. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am looking for stock performance with good reliability. -
So I have a 1998 Legacy 2.2. This is my first subaru timing belt change, but I've change half dozen timing belts on other makes and models. This thing is driving me nuts. Car was running great previous to timing belt change. I've taken off and have redone the belt three times, all with it ending with a rough idle and a motor vibration. I align the cam sprockets to rough noon (using hash marks, not the arrows), and put the crankshaft at the right spot too. I'm using a belt with marks, but I always make sure the tooth count is correct 44 on rhs (passenger), 40.5 on lhs(driver). The alignment is good, both before and after turning it back on. I've watched videos, read many forum post and nothing seems to help it smooth out. It sounds and runs like the timings off, but everything is aligned. Can the cams be 360 out of sync? I dont' think so, because the mark is the mark, right? But maybe not. When I put on the belt the passenger side cam is 'unloaded' no spring action when the hash mark is at noon...but the driver side cam is loaded (likes to jump off if I'm tweaking the belt too much without holding it in place). The only other thing that comes to mind is with the battery being disconnected it reset the ecm, and thinks it has a clean throttle body, when it doesn't. So the mix is off. I've had other cars with that problem, but not sure about subarus. Does that happen with Legacys? I've seen conflicting posts with regard to cleaning throttle bodies. This would explain the rough running, but maybe not the motor vibration Any help would be much appreciated. -
Hi All - Replaced timing belts, idler , tensioner etc. Drove the car 300 miles and let it sit for a day.Got back in and heard a distinctive hi pitched whine, lower at idle higher at speed coming from engine. Not discernable at freeway speed (too high pitched?). Got back in the car the following day and didnt hear the noise. The noise was way too obvious to be "normal". If I knew more I might suspect a problem with the alternator...but then it could be any of the other items replaced? Any thoughts would be most welcome! -
Hi All - 2009 Outback - I am replacing timing belt and water pump. Does anyone have any experience with after market timing belts? I have heard to use only Subaru water pump, but have also been told that the after market timing belt manufacturer is also the Subaru supplier. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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I am in the process of pulling the engine on my 05 outback. 2.5i NA. it has high mileage and the water pump froze/melted and snapped the timing belt. I need to rotate the crank to access the flywheel bolts. How can I set the camshaft pulley so I can rotate the crank without any further damage being caused. Do I have to pull the rocker arms off? I plan on going through the motor and rebuilding it.
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First time doing a timing belt and water pump replacement on a 1998 Legacy GT 2.5 DOHC engine. I have the timing belt kit coming in and am now breaking down the car. I have factory service manual in hand and have reviewed all videos, instruction I can find. I just want to confirm one observation: I've aligned all marks from crank and cams properly before removing old belt and when I release the tension from the belt and remove it, the left side intake and exhaust cam sprockets will jump off line as I imagine they are partially open and under spring load? correct? When I install new belt and align I will need to turn the left side cam sprockets in the correct direction one at at time in order to re-align. Question: When lining the left side back up, is it correct for both the intake and exhaust cams to be under spring stress when aligned as they were before removing belt? When turning each one more tooth would have it spring off alignment? I just want to be sure that this is the correct experience. Thanks for your help guys! -
Struggling with this Timing belt, the printed marks are not working and I'm looking to confirm tooth count between cams and crank. It's a '99 EJ25 Forester. I've done a couple of these and not had this problem, it's a Gates TCK304 223 tooth belt. Going by this recent thread, I marked up the belt in the attached photo http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152228-got-some-strange-specs-on-timing-belt/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bbelt It seems like if the P side cam and crank will align, when I try to hook the d side cam, it is off several teeth. The marks I made here are counted from the left mark on the belt. Anyone want to help me out? -
Struggling with this Timing belt, the printed marks are not working and I'm looking to confirm tooth count between cams and crank. It's a '99 EJ25 Forester. I've done a couple of these and not had this problem, it's a Gates TCK304 223 tooth belt. Going by this recent thread, I marked up the belt in the attached photo http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152228-got-some-strange-specs-on-timing-belt/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bbelt It seems like if the P side cam and crank will align, when I try to hook the d side cam, it is off several teeth. The marks I made here are counted from the left mark on the belt.
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Help! Just took my 1998 Forester in for knock sensor replacement and was told the following should be done: knock sensor-$370 valve cover gaskets- $470 crank seals-$755 timing belt while they're in there because they have to remove it anyway -$100 just for belt no additional labor left front axle cover torn and grease is "going everywhere" - $393 So, my question is do I dole out $2000 + on this car? My daughter goes to school in Syracuse - 3.5 hour drive and the plan was for her to take it to campus in the fall. I'm freaking out! Thank you!- 26 replies
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Ok, so had to stop driving the OBS Tuesday due to the do coolant loss, which is going out the reservoir and not the tailpipe. Yes, blown head gasket. So, starting tomorrow afternoon/evening I'm going to pull the engine and start work. I'm trying to first make sure I have everything, and second see what i should and should not do along with a few other questions. What I have for parts: Full Engine Gasket Set; Fel-Pro Head Gaskets (pair); Complete Timing Belt Kit w/ WP, Idlers, and Tensioner; TYC Radiator, Camshaft Sensor (probably don't need it but I have it); new o-ring PS Pump resevoir; new o-ring AC Low Pressure line; Separator Plate (metal); Tube of Subaru RTV I'm also picking up a used set of fans to fix the AC Fan the PO proceeded to cut and hot wire to the battery (yeah, don't ask). I know the AC Works, just leaks right there at that O-Ring (recently charged and tested, until it leaked out all the freon). Now for the questions: 1.) On the engine itself what all gaskets/seals should I replace while its out? This kit appears to have included everything. I already planned to do the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and remove/clean and reseal the oil pan along with the Valve Seals and the Camshaft seals and the front oil pump seal. 2.) Is there any way to test the rods/bearings on a Subaru Engine without disassembly? I know I can see them after removing the pickup tube assembly, but not sure there is enough room to move them and check for a bad bearing. 3.) Based on these questions, what's the largest & smallest torque I'm going to need? I can't find my torque wrenches (moved recently) and may have to buy new. I want to try and limit cost so if I know the lower and upper variance I can try and find 1 or 2 torque wrenches to cover it all instead of the 3 I can't find right now (had 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" Pittsburgh ones). 4.) While I am in here other than cleaning out the engine bay completely (including cleaning the subframe) what else would be smart to do? -
Ok, I need a gut check here. I was recently driving my 03 Baja when, according to the mechanic, one of the timing belt idler pulleys locked down causing the belt to break causing catastrophic engine damage to the tune of 4-4.5k. What's making this really tough for me is that about 15 months ago and less than 30k miles I had the timing belt replaced along with a new water pump, seal kit to the engine, plugs, resurfacing the head and then some. I believe all in I spent about 3.5k. Some background is when I took the vehicle in I felt I was either using or losing oil as I was having to add oil about every 2 weeks. After having the car in the shop about 3 times, I was never really satisfied the leak problem was fixed as I was still putting in about a half quart a week, but oddly the amount of loss would vary, some weeks a half quart, another week none, the next week 1. The shop manager was obviously aggrivated with me and so I just gave up and kept pouring oil in it when needed. Fast forward to now. When I had my Baja towed in, I was shocked when the mechanic told me that when the belt was changed, they failed to change the idler pullies with the exception of 1. He seemed a little lost for an explanation as to why they would have done it that way himself stating to me that he ALLWAYS changed the idler pullies when he did a timing belt replacement. He said that even if they looked ok, the odds of them outliving the new timing belt were slim and so replacement was a must. When I spoke to a friend who had her Outback in a different dealshiper around the same time, she told me that they told her they would not do the timing belt without changing the idler pulleys. So here I am, I'm no mechanic and honestly when I spent $3500 dollars trying to get my vehicle into good condition, hoping it would last me at least into my quickly approaching retirement, feeling like I was being responsible and getting the necessary maintenance done to keep my car in good working order, I just took it on faith that everything that needed to be done with regard to the timing belt was being done. I had no idea to be honest there were 3 idler pulleys that needed to be replaced so I didn't question it when I got the invoice. Afterall, they are the experts. So I'm just sick. I really can't afford the extra 4k to fix something that I feel llike I already spent the money to prevent having happen in the first place. I don't want to be a B; but I really feel like this problem was caused by a failure on the part of the shop that did the original job to do it correctly. Am I wrong? Is it possible that this is just bad luck and could not be forseen by the mechanics that changed the belt originally? I'm at a loss and just need the opinion of some folks with a little more experience and understanding of the system at play here. I'm hesitant to go back to the dealership, as I said I think I wore out my welcome with them over the oil leak never being resolved to my satisfaction, yet I really feel in my gut that this is their mistake. Any advice? Should I complain, just let it go? I'm just not sure. -
Hey everyone, so i decided I would take everyone's advice and getting the timing belt done on my 95 legacy. It has 264k on it and I have no idea when it was done last. I ordered this one:http://m.ebay.com/itm/260925109309?_mwBanner=1 off eBay. It came highly recommended by several experienced members on this site. I've been considering this for a couple weeks now and have read as many tutorials as I could find and am confident I can do this. I had a couple questions about the job though. One is that I see the kit comes with 5 seals. The four cam seals and the fifth one. The fifth gasket would be the crank seal right? It doesn't say on the kits description. Another thing, what will I use to seal the water pump? I've heard RTV silicone will work but other said it won't. Any opinions from somebody who has actually done this? Another thing, this model of the Subaru is a NON-INTERFERENCE engine correct? Everything I read says that it is. Just wanna make sure as it makes this job a little easier. And lastly, does anyone who has done this before have any recommendations or cautions for me for a person who's a newbie on timing belts? Are there any other seals or small things I should take care of while I'm in there? Also, does anyone have a sheet of the torque specs on every individual component? I wanna make sure to get everything right. I have the FSM for this but it's in PDF form and I can't find the right page. Thanks -
Is this normal wear for only 150 miles? Just finished swapping this engine, replacing a profusely leaking oil pump and noticed this. Don't know much about the health of this motor. Is this normal?
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was doing the timing belt on my 97 EJ22E. Didn't even think to put a cam gear holder on and as I removed the belt the left can gear spun about 20 degrees. As anyone knows who's done these before the left bank is on compression in that position, so it forces the cam either way about 20 degrees. What worries me is that 97 is (arguably) the first year for interference motors. Does that amount of movement have the potential to bend valves? After it moved the first time I put a socket with a breaker bar on the cam gear bolt and zip-tied the breaker bar to the AC compressor bracket to prevent further movement. Engine is on a stand. Can spin it with a breaker bar on harmonic dampener bolt, but don't want to now in case there's damage.
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The 'time' side of my maintenance schedule says my car needs a timing belt. The car has only 51,000 miles but is an 06 (delivered in October of 05). This would be my first Subaru timing belt and I think I'm gonna have some questions and probably need some moral support. (actually, the ONLY T-belt I've ever installed was on a 1978 Civic wagon ! - that was belt only too) first, it appears my car has an ej255 engine. I think I'd like to get parts from either theimportexperts or mizumoauto on ebay, however, the compatibility/'selection scheme' often says my car isn't compatible. Still, a coupla links that 'look' good are ; http://www.ebay.com/itm/371001013292?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and http://www.ebay.com/itm/261044896184?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#vi-ilComp look OK? Also, I'd rather not do any work/spend money that folks would consider unnecessary. Mostly because of risk due to my inexperience. I DON"T mind working on the car for 2-3 days or paying for good parts, so IF I change the waterpump (would you change it at 51K miles?), I'm gonna get an Aisin. I know nothing about the GMB parts listed in one of those links and am leaning toward the more expensive NTN w'ever parts. Many people seem to think I should change the water pump and the cam and crank seals (remember - 51,000 miles ) but, as for the seals, it seems there's some 'art'/skill involved, and maybe I'd need a special tool to remove them - maybe to seat them as well. Plus, I've never used the sealants you guys talk about, Ulta grey or anaerobic? Couple that with stories of cracking cam pulleys(there's 4 of them!) and needing to sand-down (?) some shaft surfaces - I kinda feel like it might be too risky for me to tackle the seals unless I see leaks? I'd like a link to the FSM for this job if someone knows it (2006 WRX Wagon) Does everyone pull the oil pump and re-seal the back of it? Can I just leave it alone? What size socket is needed for the crank pulley? (in case i need to get a 6-point for my impact) Will I need to use any of the following; sealants (what types?), anti-seize(where?) ,threadlocker (where?), grease or special lube (where?) For a first timer, would you recommend pulling the radiator? probably install new hoses if I do but ??? any parts easily damaged plastic or hardware that will likely need replacing along the way? (clips,screws, bolts, nuts) any suggestions for the major 'gotchas' to watch out for? any decent pics or videos around? I have hardware stores near enough, dealer is 17 miles away. I don't expect someone to respond to everything, but I will listen to any wisdom you guys want to pass along. naturally, I have to live with any compromises I make, just wondering what experienced mechs have to say. If waterpumps leak coolant instead of seizing their bearings, I might leave mine in for instance.
