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Showing results for tags 'timing'.
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Doesn't make sense The timing on the right side is set to the marks all good the ,left side set to cam pulley mark engine runs hot and under load and pings set mark on left side cam pulley after mark engine pings when not hot under load and looses power , set to cam pulley before mark engine runs ok doesn't ping or get hot . Mark refers to the slot on the back timing belt cover . Any ides why cam pulley has pin so can't be wrongly positioned , timing is set by no1 plug on opposite side (piston 1 )
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Just finished timing belts, water pump, pulleys, new oil seals, brand new vacuum lines, all new bosch ignition, pcv valve, pcv hoses, karropak gaskets on throttle, everything's tightened down!and sealed up, cooling system bled, new thermostat, etc... I checked and got codes 11, 12, 13, 34 & 35. Only had the car about a week, but no engine light before timing belt. Curious about the possibility this is an error as the car runs awesome, idles a little high though (1000-1100 rpms)
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I have a 1985 ford f250 with a 300 bored .60 over and the timing marks on the harmonic balancer do not relate to TDC on the number 1 cylinder. The marks are aligned with TDC on number 5. How can this be?
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So I have redone the timing on my 88 subaru gl-10 like 10 time thinking I have done something wrong I followed miles fox tutorial to the T and when I try to start it it turns over for a few seconds then to almost a dead stop then turns over again I did not pull the distributor out and it seems to line up after the whole timing procedure I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and mind you I just changed head gaskets and seals so any ideas?
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The saga continues.... my timing belt project is turning out to be a real disaster. I bought a timing belt & water pump kit that included crankshaft & camshaft seals, and figured it was a good idea to replace them while I was at it. I tried a couple of methods to get my camshaft bolts loosened, since I didn't have the special tool. After tongue & groove pliers, a strap wrench, and a cheap plumbing wrench failed me, I managed to lock up the left-side camshafts by folding my old timing belt over a couple of times and wedging it in between the sprockets, such that the teeth on both camshaft sprockets engaged the belt. Piece of cake. Right side didn't work so well. I tucked a small wedge in between the folds of the old timing belt that time, thinking it would make the job quicker, but it had the effect of shattering the exhaust sprocket before the bolt loosened. Stupid idea, in hindsight. I didn't realize how vulnerable the sprockets would be to this kind of stress. I'm pricing out a new sprocket, but obviously I need a better way of tightening/loosening the bolts. I'm loathe to spend $60 or more on the specialty tool, since I don't know if I'll use it again on this car. I'd rather spend the same $$$ for a general-purpose tool that will serve me down the road. (That said, I'll gladly buy the specialty tool for the sake of doing it right, if no other tool will do). I thought about a chain wrench, but nobody around me carries them. I need to make sure that (1) it is good quality, don't want to spend money on junk, and (2) it will fit between the intake and exhaust sprockets, with a leather belt or something in between for protection if necessary. Brand recommendations welcome. Or, is there another alternative tool or trick instead of a chain wrench? Also---maybe a silly question, but why was this bolt so tight? Is it common practice to use a strong threadlock compound for them? If not, I have to assume someone before me tightened the everliving crap out of it. The torque I applied trying to loosen it greatly exceeded 60 ft-lbs. Thanks as always for your kind advice. I know some of my issues are probably pretty cringeworthy newbie material. :-) -
I pulled the crankshaft sprocket off of my 1999 Legacy (2.5L). It was a bear of a job and required a lot of prying. At one point I got careless and had my prybar applying pressure directly to the back of one of the tabs on the rear side of the sprocket---it snapped off. Here's a photo: I assume these tabs are used by the proximity sensor to tell the computer the crankshaft's position. Therefore I assume I must replace the part. But before I order it, I wanted to verify with the experts here. Can I get away with not replacing it? Thanks!
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Recently bought a 93 Legacy wagon off Craigslist for my father to commute to work out of town. It runs good and is used to commute 250mi's a week (highway drive 125mi there & 125mi back). I check it out every weekend when he gets back. THE MAIN issue is it backfires thru intake at startup & the idle is high, only when engine is cold! After it warms up it runs better & idles fine. It had the Bosch 4 prong platinum spark plugs, runs better with copper NGK's, but still backfiring. I cleaned the PVC vavle, MAF sensor, IACV, & throttle body also. Had the exhaust checked out & they replaced 1 of the cats but not sure if they really checked EVERYTHING out. Previous owner had replaced the plugs/wires & air filter. I've researched this & came across a few possibilities but the car runs fine once warmed up. coolant temp sensor could be failing-dumping too much fuel at warm up. Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. Exhaust leak near the head or at the Y-pipe allowing air in & then closing when warmed up. Low or uneven compression. These are some of the problems that I read can cause a backfire but the car runs really nice once warmed up. Another issue is the speedo doesn't work. Check engine light is on for Vehicle Speed Sensor. And the POWER light for the trans blinks when you turn the key on. I figure that the tranny Control Unit senses the VSS & is why power light blinks. So does this mean the Tranny is in a "SAFE MODE" not performing at its best because the computer sensed a problem? It feels like it could have more acceleration & performance is what im getting at. Any helpful suggestions, comments, questions or information is highly appreciated! THANKS. -
So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released.
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Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
hey there everyone, so I did a timing belt job on my '87 GL turbo the other day after the passenger side belt broke. after I had everything back together and lined up correctly, (99.9% sure in my mechanic/automotive skills ) and there was I REALLY bad clicking coming from the passenger side #3 cylinder (back passenger side).... in knowing I had everything aligned and set up correctly I let it run for about 4 er 5 minutes and the sound is completely gone want this car to last a long time so just wondering what could have caused this or what could have gone wrong with a breaking t-belt thanks everyone, hope my 87 wagon continues on its 231,000 mile streak
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I posted earlier tonight about a recent cylinder misfire. In that thread, Fairtax4me suggested that I make sure my timing belt hasn't slipped. But even if the timing belt isn't the source of my current engine dilemma, I figure I should make that my next DIY project. Supposing I want to order a complete timing belt component kit, including idlers, tensioner, and a water pump---can anyone offer advice on where to go for quality components? My car is a '99 Legacy Outback 2.5L with 230,000 miles. I have found components kits on RockAuto.com and eBay ranging in price from $150 to almost $400. I understand OEM quality components are desirable, but I don't know who the OEM manufacturer(s) are. Also, I wonder if it's overkill for me to worry about OEM with an older car. I don't know about the reputations of the various aftermarket manufacturers. Can you suggest a reasonable plan of attack, brands you trust, or a preferred online vendor? Thanks!
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I have just purchased a EA82 imported motor every thing looks fine and in as new condition . The distributor does not have a vacume advance Can I use the same ecufrom the old motor or do I need to use the dizzy with the vaccume advance from the old motor as I only have the ecu from the old motor plus a spare ecu also from a motor with the vacume advance fitted Tony J
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I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers? -
I think I am almost there to getting this 1992 Loyale back up and running. I had diagnosed this engine as a broken timing belt and it was. The Driver side belt was majorly broken. However, I got the new belts on and the timing seemed to be weird and I can't get it to fire up. The pass. sides seems like it is firing but the driver side is not. It's getting spark and fuel and compression. but no combustion. Per Chiltons guide I lined up the dots to the top of the timing backing and the crank sproket dot up as well. but the driver side 2/4 is fouled by fuel, well cylinder 2 is. I didn't check c4. Compression is abour 150 psi and holds. (no leakage) Chilton siad something about applying pressure while setting the timing belt, but if I did that then it would not be on it's mark. So is there anyone out there that has done this repair and knows the exact thing to do to make sure this thing is in time? I've made sure that the engine was at TDC beore I aligned the cams. Thanks for your assistance! -Mike
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I am about to tear my motor in my 03 forester X because my timing sproket bearings come out which led to the sprocket slinging off. i tried just replacing that and retiming it, but i still am not getting compression... I was just wanting to figure up some good pistons and rods that aren't OEM. I figure if Im going to have to rebuild i may as well add some horsepower too, but do not know where to look to find some good after market parts. help Will be greatly appreciated. ask questions if you need more details. p.s. This Will be my first subaru build always been with muscle cars till i found this reliable car. To bad one small thing put it in my shop. -
i have a 99 subaru legacy outback. i changed the waterpump and replaced the timing idler tensioner and got a new timing belt. i am wondering on that one how do you like up the crankshaft. i see a line on the pulley itself but not anywhere to line it up with, can someone please help. i know how to line up the camshafts though. thank you kevin -
So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
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I have a 1991 loyale that has little rust on the body, new fuel pump, water pump, winter and summer tires. needs a rack and pinion at some point but otherwise great little car. One of the timing belts broke and i suspect while fixing I some how bunged up a valve or i guess it may have happened when the belt went. Engine wont crank past 340ish degrees. Have yet to take the covers off to check. I plan on going through the steps again to do the belts if everything looks alright. Curious to know if swapping out the engine is worth it and can I put in something that is more current with more power. not ready to give up on it as I really enjoy driving it. Also , suggestions on where to get a used but good motor. Im in the edmonton, alberta, canada area.I havent done too much in the way of car mechanics but do enjoy it and can follow a manual. Any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
