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Showing results for tags 'transmission'.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Legacy L 2.5l and while driving down the road my tach bounces up and down about 200 rpms but when at about 50-55mph my car keeps shifting up and down from overdrive and down a gear and then back up. This sometimes happens around the 30-35mph mark also. I'm not sure that this is related but at about 65mph my tach reads at about 2750 but when I set the cruise it jumps up to about 3750. There is no jump in the tach when at idle. Any thoughts, suggestions or questions? I'm hoping my tranny is not on the way out and that this could be an easy fix. Please help! -
Hey I'm selling or parting out my gen 1 BRAT. Add explains all. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4304702483.html
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Another A/T Binding Issue, my apologies Vehicle: 1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles) Engine: 2.2 Liter Transmission: 4EAT Symptoms: Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with Subaru. Checks performed: Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine) ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz) Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat) Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine Checked rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted Checks in progress: Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM Help, Advice Requested!!! Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise! Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car! Thanks Navet Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings: Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 450-720 Ohms (expected) 541 Ohms (Actual) Correct ATF Temperature Sensor 2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F 4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "A" 1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected) 3.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "B" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 13.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 1 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.5 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 2 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.4 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 3 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 25 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "C" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 33 Ohms (Actual) Houston, I think we have Problem! I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing. Thanks again. -
PLEASE HELP! My faithful "Rodney" has a problem. (Rodney is my nickname for my 2000 Outback) While I was driving 10 miles to the doctor today, the automatic transmission started "slipping"; revving and not engaging. I pulled in to a "mega" gas station (no mechs anywhere), bought gas. When trying to pull away, my poor baby Rodney wouldn't move. No forward gears at all. Surprisingly, REVERSE works fine. So I backed up around all the pumps to an area I could park. Transmission fluid level fine, tip top. Discovered a wire with female plug hanging down, found its mate coming out of some conduit shielding in engine compartment. Fished up the hanger, and sure enough they were a perfect fit... but connecting them didn't solve anything. Could the pins be wet? Why does reverse work but not forward? What am I in for? Please help. Thanks.
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Hi all, I purchased a certified pre-owned Subaru Impreza with 40,000 miles a month ago. I've only put 500 miles on it and just noticed that it seems like it hunts for gears at times and there is a distinct, but very quiet, whining coming from the front dif area. It is my understanding that Subaru's manufacturer warranty transfers automatically? I also believe the front dif should be covered by the powertrain warranty, which I should still be covered by? Looks like the previous owner may have had an issue with this as in digging through the glove box and owners manual I found he had folded up two (unmarked/un-filled) appeal forms and an envelope pre-addressed to Subaru of America. I work odd hours and am basically chained to my desk until late this evening, after my dealer closes. (I did already call them and notify them that I am having a problem, which may have been a mistake as I won't be able to bring the vehicle in today..... :X) I'm thinking I will drop the car off the day after Christmas since they are closed Tuesday and Wednesday this week. Is this okay for me to wait on, from a warranty standpoint? I'm not really that worried about the dif, it's a very faint whine but I'd rather nip it in the bud. I also have a service contract that I purchased through the dealer, so don't want to mess anything up with that either. Not sure if waiting to bring the car in voids anything? Any input is appreciated! I've always bought super old Subies in the past so I've never had a warranty! -
2009 legacy se 5 speed manual with 40,000 miles. Everything has been working perfectly, until this morning. Wife calls me this morning and says the rear wheels locked up on her way into town. The car skidded to a stop and died. After a few minutes she was able to move it off the road and we let it set for awhile. I drove the car the two miles back home with no issue. Later in the afternoon I went to pick up my daughter and the reading on the dash computer was reading no more than 9.5mpg and there is a grinding noise under the seat upon acceleration. It does not seem to have power loss. Being new to Subaru all together i have no idea where to even start. -
I installed a 98 legacy outback automatic AWD transmission in my 92 AWD legacy wagon. Everything seemed to be plug and play. Everything went in correctly and the engine started, but if you put it into any gear (R,D,1,2,3) it acts like its in neutral. You can push the car forward and back without anything stopping it. Putting it in park does work though. Is the tranny bad, or did something change with the wiring over the years? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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I own a 2000 Forester LT with a little of 200k miles on it. 4 cylinder engine,automatic transmission. Recently, when I first start the car after it has been sitting for a few hours the At Oil Temp light begins to flash constantly. If I drive it for a short distance or allow it to completely warm up and then turn the car off and back on again the light will stop flashing. However, there is also a lurching motion in the shifting that varies between 1st and 2nd or 2nd and 3rd depending on whether the engine has had a chance to warm up (1st and 2nd when cold, 2nd and 3rd when at temp). A few months ago my dear boyfriend went to change the oil in the car and accidently drained the transmission instead of the oil pan. He realized his mistake before either of us drove it and put new transmission fluid back in but did not change the filter to it. He also dropped the filter in a pan of motor oil before putting it back on the car. That was back in July and the dash light and lurching motion only started in the last few days. Is it possible that my transmission filter is simply clogged and needs changed or is this a symptom of a larger problem. The lurching motion, after the car is at temp, comes and goes so don't know if it's the transmission itself, the filter or maybe a sensor of some kind. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. -
Hello, I just got a 1995 Legacy. I had to take this poor car away from my parents, I just could not see her sit around and be a pile of junk as my parents tend to do with cars with minor problems. I fixed the wheel bearing last night. Now I am working on the transmission. It does not currently go into reverse, It is an automatic transmission. First, anyone else come by this problem. and second, does anyone know a good online dealer, or dealer in general of transmissions, I would like to not spend over 1000 on a transmission for it. Thats if it is not fixable for about the same price. -
Hello, I'm working on a swap project (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/) and am looking for the pinout for the '89 GL transmission. I've been looking everywhere and for some reason can't track these down - it's really just two plugs... If anyone can point me to one or send me one you'd make my life a bit easier.
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I'm working on a 98 obw. I pulled motor for 4 bent exhaust valves. New valves installed & ready for re-install. I can't get my torque converter properly seated. the inner shaft seats nicely - the service manual recommended 2" + or - is still showing. I've read all the posts on torque converter seating. after many hours of trying - I've come to the conclusion that the input shaft won't make the final push into the torque converter itself. I've tried the TC with no input shaft and it seats nicely. When I try to insert the input shaft into the TC while sitting on the work bench it only goes in about 1/8" - just enough that the splines begin to catch and will actually turn the inter workings of the TC itself - but they will go no deeper. it seems to me they need to go at least 1/2" further than they are. When I look inside the TC, I can see no sign of damage and the splines on the input shaft look perfect. I have not reason to suspect damage. Why do the splines catch - but will go no further? any help would be greatly appreciated. -
About to pull the engine and tranny out of my project 01' lego. The engine is shot in here so I'm going to pull that and the tranny out since it has 165,xxx miles on her and just rebuild them both at the same time, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a good cheap basic tranny rebuild kit with just the seals and gasket and a cheap engine rebuild master kit. Thanks! -
Hi Guys I hate to make this my first post but I need your help! I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy LS... 3 weeks ago I just put ALL new brakes on, New back rotors, new muffler, new master cylinder, new tune-up. Just a few days ago my car was on high idle and when you step on the pedal it wont go past 30mph do you think it might be the tranny? The very next day the motor sounded normal but still wouldnt go past 20-30mph but got hot and engine light came on. Transmission fluid did smell burned and looked brown. I only put 400 miles on my car in 8 months, I baby my car how could my tranny go?? Right after I hired this guy from Craigslist when he put on my MC, my brake pedal is very slow, hardly any brakes! I think I might have to junk my car, I cant afford to fix it anymore, but I need a car, both my son and I are on disability and we have to get to the doctor. What could be wrong? Oh.. this high idle happened 1 time about about a month ago! -
Good evening folks, I've owned an 82 and 86 Brat, both with manual transmissions, and am naturally blown away with how good it is off road. Naturally some of that is because of the low range that comes with the 4 speed. I'm about to buy an 83 with an automatic in pretty nice shape for a good price. Is the Brat with the 3 speed auto as good wheeling as the 4 speed with low range? Is it essentially like running in 4-hi? I'm not expecting it to be as good as my old Jeep Wrangler, but how well will it compare to the manual Brats I've had in the past? Thanks in advance. *Naturally I will post pics as soon as I pick it up tomorrow.
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My 2004 Outback was shifting at the wrong times. Took it to a transmission specialist who wanted $3,000+ to replace the transmission. Bought a transmission off a wreck with only 100,000 miles on it, and had it installed by my mechanic. Same problems. I'm now thinking it is the tcm? Any hints? Should I look for a replacement tcm? -
I have a 1993 Legacy sedan with 170k miles that I recently purchased. Last week I noticed the tranny slipping as I accelerated from stop. I have identified 2nd gear as the problem. I was planning on changing the ATF and filter today, when I stumbled upon this forum. I get the impression that since the filter is more of a screen that dropping the pan is a waste of time. The fluid is very dirty and probably not been changed in quite a while. I am concerned that the problems are worse than a fluid change will help, but its worth a shot. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. -
Hi all -- I have 290K on my transmission and I've been pretty faithful in keeping up my maintenance, just last week had it serviced and now suddenly I have an error. It came up as a code for the torque converter clutch solenoid. Hubby took it in and didn't get the code number, but the tech said that it was in the valve body. Could a piece of dirt from the flush cause the solenoid to stick? We plan on taking it in to have it diagnosed, I've read that a transmission replacement may be an option at this point. Thanks -
Hey folks, So I finished my EJ22 swap into my '92 Loyale, and hit the road. Thankfully for me, I'm on my way back... Just have to say, for a motor that had 230k miles, power is great. But I think the rings are bad, being that I'm having to replace oil if I travel at rpm's above 3k... But, my DILEMA! While driving at sustained interstate speeds, there is an intermittent popping/thudding coming from the floor near the gas pedal and the passenger's left foot. You can hear it, and if you put your hand as far up under the dash by the gas pedal, and also by the passenger's left foot.. You can feel the thumping. It feels like something his flapping around and hitting the shell of the car... I have already gotten under it. There's nothing hanging/loose. I started trying to move everything/anything I could get my hands on. Everything feels fine. Nothing wiggly/jiggly. The noise reminds me of the first few corn kernels that start to pop when making your own popcorn. Just kinda sporadic. The vehicle is performing well. No error codes. Fuel economy is in the low 30's right now. No problem accelerating up a hill, All gears work, although I think that the synchronizing gear for third is beginning to ware. I've been trying to trigger/kill the sound. I hear it after sustaining speeds, then if I downshift it'll stay through each gear until I'm about ready to come to a complete stop/put transmission in neutral. I tried taking it out of gear and coasting for a while. Makes it go away for about ten-20 minutes of high speed . BUT, at the same time, I experimented with a coast-to-stop as soon as I heard it next. Well I kept it in neutral, and revved it up and down while coasting. The sound/thump/pop would start and fade. Doesn't happen in City traffic. Also noticed that my speedometer has to catch up sometimes while hitting interstate speeds.. I was wondering if the coolant lines could be popping? I feel like it's in the same area as the heater core as well? Could there be an air bubble in the system? I've had to replace about 3oz of coolant every so often since putting the motor in. No white smoke. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Greg -
Anyone know off hand if a JDM Ver 3 GC8 STI transmission will fit up to a EZ30r? Form my research, it should, as anything EJ will hook up to anything EZ. But the JDM is worrying, as I have no experience there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi all, I've been replacing my clutch and transmission box on my '99 Outback. But the transmission (both new and old ones) will not slap up against the engine! I've read everything there is to read about re-installing the MT on these OBs, and I've tried everything imaginable with NO RESULTS! See photo links below of input shaft, clutch plate and hole, and the gap that exists between the transmission and the engine. Before you ask, here's what I know: 1. There's nothing blocking the tranny from hitting the engine anywhere. 2. The transmission is definitely the right size. Even the original won't shove back into it's place. 3. I have rotated the input shaft splines 10+ times and tried to shove it in, still won't go. 4. The transmission gets on all bolts, but not all the way up against the engine. 5. The clutch fork and bearing are all installed correctly and not interfering. 6. I have tried getting under the tranny and wiggling it up and down, left to right, a hundred times. No dice. 7. I have re-installed the clutch plate and disc three times, making sure it's facing the correct direction and aligned properly. 8. One of the lower bolts may be slightly bent, but the transmission still goes on all six bolts just fine. And if that one bolt is indeed bent, it's only a very slight, minute bend. Anyone have any ideas on how to finally get this sucker on without breaking anything? I am losing my mind. Here's the photo of the tranny and engine: Photo of input shaft: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k3F3pybq0P...nput+shaft.JPG Photo of clutch: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ElioWP9To...lutch+hole.JPG -
Bought a '98 Subaru in September of 2012 for its superior gas mileage, AWD, spacious interior, and rumored reliability. Three months later, the head gaskets blew while I was on the road, 900 miles from home where I could fix it myself. Cost $2,000 to replace head gaskets, radiator, everything. The day after the repair, the manual tranny died.Towed it home and discovered that the problem is the actual transmission, not the clutch or the flywheel or linkages or fork. Nope, definitely the transmission. I am poor and this car has put me into debt. Any suggestions on what to do with it that will help me regain that $2,000 I spent on all the new engine parts?
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I have a few questions on a 5 speed tranny out of a 2000 legacy with the EJ25. Now I heard that in 2000 this was the only year for the 4.10 gear ratio, is this correct? Another one, if that is correct if i were to put it in my 2001 legacy L sedan if I swapped the rear out as well with out messing up the speedo?
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I am hoping, beyond what I can search here, someone has or has seen a good scope trace of the Duty C signal. In a perfect world, there would be a trace from an '00-'03 and one from an '04, when apparently the signal polarity was changed. Before '04, +12V to the duty C disabled the AWD, '04 and above, +12V fully activates the duty-C and the AWD. What I am hoping is that I can get reasonably close to the proper signal by using a few transistors to 'invert' the signal. -
I've got the transmission out of my legacy and it turns out it was an impreza trans. The hoses on the top are in a mount where they just hang and aren't connected. The new one they are, I was wondering which is correct and why it matters Picture of the new one http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8498723024 Picture of the old http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8498720272
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I'm considering buying a 1994 WRX 5 spd transmission for a swap project, but I'm having a HUGE amount of difficulty finding out anything about it. It is JDM and from a RHD vehicle. I'm looking for gear ratio (although I'm guessing it's 3.90), I'm wondering what sort clutch it accepts ( Pull style, push style, hydraulically activated or cable) Also, is there any reason I might avoid this transmission?? Any help, of info will be greatly appreciated.
