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Showing results for tags 'transmission'.
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Hi all, I'm new and have a question about my 91 legacy 2wd automatic It runs great starts fine, But when I try to put it in reverse it won't. Not w/o a lot of patience. The thumb trigger won't push in but sounds like a switch is closing. After 20 or so times it finally works. Once in gear no problem r-d-123. Seems more finicky over 4 days. Is there a switch that allows it to be put in rev? If so what's it called? The clicking seems to come from the steer column. Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers -
Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-) -
I see talk of EA this and EJ that. I'm assuming these are the Trans or Engine types of the particular vehicles in discussion. Does anyone have a complete list with matching years and models (or at least OEM installation)? What is under my stock 2008 Legacy Outback 2.5i 5MT? My transmission is labeled: TY758VCABA-GA (which is about the only ID I could find on it.) -
I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!! -
I hear talk of many 'how to' threads for a EA82 5 speed tranny to D/R 5 speed swap but I can't find them. I find random htreads asking questions but never any how to's. Where might they be located? Link? Thanks
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Salutations! First post on here. I just purchased the lovely Ethel pictured above. The car's great, she's been taken care of, but I've been having problems with third gear. EA81, 4WD, 4-speed. Grinds and kicks out of gear if I shift too quickly. Even successful shifts are occasionally painful (a hard knock when the gears engage, generally). I'm assuming it's just worn synchros, courtesy of a 30-year old transmission. I've read into it a bit, and it seems that this issue is fairly common? Any advice or suggestion is appreciated. If I shift slowly and firmly, I can usually avoid grinding. My primary concern is this affecting the longevity of the car. Thanks, friendlyfallenfoe on behalf of Ethel, my 1984 GL hatchback. -
2000 Impreza outback sport - Manual Transmission 209k miles Hello all - It has been a while since I have been on here, but I know this message board is full of knowledge, and I'm having some trouble diagnosing a speed dependent clicking noise in the drive train somewhere. The clicking started before my last major project, in which i replaced: - All 4 Struts - Steering Rack - Both Tie rod ends - Rebuilt power steering pump - Both Front Axles - Both lower control arm ball joints - 4 New Tires - Transmission fluid (prior to this project, but still recently) Many may immediately jump to CV joint, but noticed the wear from the old damaged ones, and that is no longer noticable with the new axles, so i have ruled those out. The noise is speed dependent, i can feel the clicking in the shift knob, and when the clutch pedal is partially depressed, the noise is significantly louder.it is a relatively fast click - i think it is similar to the sound made when two wheels are off the ground, and you rotate the wheel one direction, and you hear the clicking from the differential. Seems to be speed dependent only and can be heard in any gear. My thoughts are: - Clutch - would a broken finger from the pressure plate cause such a clicking? - Differential - Transmission any help would be greatly appreciated. I do need to drive the car across the country in less than 5 days. -
I have a 2005 Impreza 2.5 RS with a 4EAT transmission. It was good for the first 4 or 5 years, but then shifted rough when cold 1-2 and especially 3-4. It gradually got worse, to the point where I kept it in 2nd gear until the transmission was hot. In spite of many trips to the dealer, their only solution was to replace the transmission. Recently, my car wouldn't idle consistently and the dealer cleaned the throttle body and did a re-learn on the idle. Besides fixing the idle, cleaning the throttle body made the transmission work nearly perfectly, even when cold. Does anyone know why cleaning the throttle body would improve the operation of the transmission so dramatically? Is there some vacuum feed to the transmission? I though it was all hydraulic. -
hi all.... someone soooo kind told me about your group. i am having a huge deliema (sp?). i have a 94 sub leg touring wagon turbo automatic. i thought it was having a transmission issue (is what my hubby and son) told me. but now after talking to john he isnt sure. it is the turbo model.....it has all of its org parts (you know...).... the mileage is like 165,000. my hubby just wants it towed to a junk yard but we bought it brand new and after 20 yrs it feels like it is a part of me (even tho i have another car, i love this thing). my hubby was in the military and it has done every single move w/us and now that we are retired it is just part of the family too. we have done allllllll of the required maintenance on it as well as the book calls for and 3000/3ms oil changes. and how would you know if it is turbo or tranny? we prob should have towed to our reg. mechanic since hubby can do most of the small things but he wont tackled the big stuff. should we keep it, should we sell it..... any offers or suggestion, we are near pittsburgh. thanks for your time. God bless. anne -
Good morning all, Does anyone know the part number for the FWD manual transmission that goes into a 1989 Subaru GL wagon? I attached a picture of a transmission that is thought to be for my car but I want to make sure. The number that is hard to read is TM70F5A2AT-AK thanks, Lewis
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Our '06 Outback (106,000 miles) is exhibiting slight rough shifting up only, downshifts apper normal.Not bad, but up to now shifting as been 'invisible'. Doesn't make any difference if loafing along or mashing the throttle. When manually shifting with sport mode, shifts are smooth. Car has had regular SOA maintenance, including AT service on schedule, with OEM tranny fluids only. Just did the 105,000 front case work, and tranny service ... still the same. Any observations. -
hey all this is my first post so bear with me i have a 99 subaru outback wagon with 240000 miles its got a 5 speed transmission. the transmission has always made the typical subaru rattle in 5th gear that stopped when i put my hand on the shifter. lately the transmission has been making weirder and weirder noises whirring and grinding while in gear accelerating or decelerating didnt matter what gear it was in. today i went to back out of my parking spot at work and the car crunched and stopped it almost felt like i had ran over something so i got out and checked and there was nothing there. i pulled forward and it made another crunch then drove fine. the car drives normal but its making god awful whirring and rattling sounds whenever the car is moving even in neutral. i pulled out the dipstick and it looks like one side has been dragged across a grinder and shaved down just a tiny bit. what do you guys think? transmission going bad? front differential bad? is this car gonna kill me if i keep driving it? any input would be greatly appreciated thanks Nate oh the fluid on the dipstick is full -
OK I am going to ask for help and see what happens? My 88 dl 2wd wagon w/ 200k plus miles is giving me clutch fits! A couple years ago I replaced a broken clutch cable, I thought at the time the parts house (Auto Zone or Oreillys/schmucks) had given me the wrong cable as the horseshoe clip to hold cable in bracket did not fit the new cable. I was able to make the cable work for awhile but now when i adjust the cable to where I can get car into reverse and shift, the adjustment does not hold. Lasts maybe an hour of driving and must be adjusted again?? I am determined to keep this car on the road as I feel it is just reaching its prime and I want to do my part to aid OPEC in world domination. My plan is to order a new correct cable- getting one from a dealer is too costly, trying to find a 2wd Subi in an OREGON u-pull it is like looking for UNICORNS OR HONEST POLITICIANS. Does anybody have advice? Once I replace the cable I am prepared to do the clutch and all hardware if not shifting happily? Thanks -
93 Legacy - New timing belt & water pump, Tune-up, Intake system cleaned, new filters etc. The car runs much better but still seems auto trans is sluggish. No real hard shifting or slipping but lacking umpf. I would like to change the fluid and filter screen & dont want to have a shop do it- prices are high, employee's are inexperienced, parts and performance lack workmanship & quality. I want to Drain the whole system not necessarily flush it, just get out all the old fluid out & replaced. I have searched on "how to do it yourself" & have a general idea of what to do. Take one of the trans cooler lines off to pump out the old fluid that isnt in the pan, Drain & remove pan then clean it out & remove old gasket material/residue, replace filter/screen gasket & trans pan, And refill with ATF. More or less this is the "How to" I found but very simplified. I think pumping/draining out of the cooler line would be done before the pan right? Would new fluid need to be added while pumping out so system doesnt run dry? I'd rather not run a bunch of new fluid in it just to throw it away. I would like to know if anyone has done a flush or drain the whole system at home & what procedure(with details) was used, problems or issues occurred, *lack of a better term* "Tricks"/techniques to use. What brand ATF is most commonly used by members? Any bad experiences with NAPA brand/Or similar ATF? What is a good way to clean trans out before adding new ATF? I was thinking about adding SeaFoam Trans Tune to help clean it out. Anyone used SeaFoam Trans Tune (not regular seafoam) before? Also read that Trans-X has been used & recommended by quite a few subaru owners in their auto's to help or prevent issues. Add SeaFoam Trans Tune drive a few miles, drain & replace with new fluid and Trans-X additive, what do you think? Any & All helpful information or ideas and opinions are appreciated, hope to get replies/responses ASAP, Thanks. -
Anyway, at least I believe it is a knock. At first I thought it was Piston Slap in the motor. A Subaru Mechanic told me piston slap was not common with these motors. It is a 1988 Subaru GL 4 wheel drive wagon. It has the selective 4 wheel drive. It is not full time 4 wheel drive. The knock is most noticeable when cold and then gets better as it warms up. This happens when it is in 2 wheel drive. When I shift it into 4 wheel drive the knock disappears completely. Yes, I checked the oil and it is not discolored and does not leak. Any ideas out there?
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Wondering if anybody out there has any kind of dimensions for an EA81 bellhousing? Like the measurements of where it bolts to the back of the engine. Trying to draw up an adapter in Pro-E (CAD program) and cant seem to find any good dimensions to use.
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Can I put a 97 forester transmission in a 98 forester? They both are auto transmission and AWD. Sorry if it is a dumb question I'm not very knowledgeable on cars. I bought a 98 forester and I need to replace the transmission. -
I need to know if I can put a 97 forester transmission in my 98 forester? They are both AWD Auto transmissions.
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OK, here goes. Have a bad driver side front diff oil seal. Doing the CVs while I'm at it. Background- had a center diff bearing fail (shatter) 20K ago, split the tranny, found the bearing fragments and replaced no problem (also found some other old fragments of hardened metal from something else which failed and was repaired prior to my owning it). Kept the old seals and slid the halves back over the diff seals. Did not reset the backlash with the differential side retainers when it went back together (pops reassembled while I was at work, he couldn't help himself). Must I pull the trans to do this job like the manual calls out, or can I simply pull the side retainer, swap the seal & O-ring and reinstall the side retainer to the same exact point (indexing its original position/turns)? If I must pull the trans its all good, have all the necessary tools/equipment. -
I'm looking for some parts for a project Legacy L, but in the process I found something that may help my '99 Outback: http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/4381248624.html It's from a 2000 Outback (I'm waiting to get the transmission code), but from what I have read here it should be compatible with my '99 OBW. Is his correct? Which other years are compatible? Now the other question, and a more subjective at that: would you guys buy this transmission? I'm assuming the "AWD not working" means the center differential is fried, so I can just use the one on mine. The stubby axles are not there, but apparently it's just a matter of popping the ones on my transmission in there. But a) this thing looks somewhat neglected (or is it normal for a transmission to look like this?) and most importantly, it looks like the transmission has been rebuilt before (the sticker is from Reliable Transmissions Ltd. in NY). What should I expect from a rebuilt transmission? Would you guys buy one? Thanks! -
'87 s/r and d/r clutch question
BoostedBoxer421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
i have an '87 GL Turbo (5-speed s/r) and an '87 RX Turbo (5-speed d/r) on my GL clutch, it seems like the clutch starts to disengage as soon as you begin to press pedal, and is fully disengaged once its at floor (about 6-7 inches of travel).. and my RX clutch doesnt start to disengage until about 2 inches from floor and is fully disengaged once pedal is on floor (only 2 inches of travel) so im really just wondering if my GL has worn out clutch or if the RX is adjusted differently?? ive only ever driven my GL, so i dont have much experience with how these clutches are supposed to be "normally", or if they differ between the s/r and d/r turbo transmission -
This occured the first time the other day at a stop sign. I came to a stop then pressed the gas and at first the car revved up to 3,000 rpms before drive engaged. The other day I came to a complete stop and upon pressing the gas I was unable to go forward, only reverse worked. I shut the car off for about 10-15 minutes and upon turning it on and revving it up was able to engage a gear. I have checked the tranmission fluid level as well as the gear box fluid level and both are full. Is there something else it could be that I could check myself or replace? -
I bought a '99 Forester at an auto auction. Ran great and in great condition but when I went to drive it home it won't go above first gear. It is an automatic transmission that shifts into drive and reverse fine but just won't shift past first gear. It just reves up. Any thoughts? This is my first Subaru. I checked transmission fluid and level is fine, didn't smell bad. -
Hi Guys I am pleased to inform you that i finally bought my first very own 1998 2.0 GL non turbo Subaru Impreza 5 Door station wagon. It might not mean much to many of you, but for me it is, especially when you are limited with cash and you manage to buy your first Subaru cash. so here is the thing, and i need some advise from the Subby experts. I pick up a bearing sound like noise coming from the tranny, as soon as my clutch is engaged its gone. when i drive in 1st, 2nd 3rd its loud and gets softer in 4th and 5th gear. as soon as i de-accelarate the noise is gone, when i accelarate the noise is back. my concern................its gradually getting louder. Today......... i discovered that the noise is substantially softer when i engage the car in 4WD LO and when the 4WD lever is between HI and LO (neutral) the noise is gone. a Mech told me {Bro you gorra replace you Tranny, she is busted} im hoping he is wrong,,,,,,any beneficial advise you can enrich me with. by the way....i still love this car,,,im amazed with the way this car corners although i dont have the best of tyres. cioa.- 10 replies
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I did some searching and found stuff stating that it can be done. but I've not found any proof of it being possible and what customizations have to be made. I've got the xt6 5 lug swap done. I know the outer front axles will work there. but the trans is a female not a male like the xt6 correct? I'm thinking I would have to run impreza axles. and then comes the gear ratio matching with the rear end and driveline length I believe is shorter. if anyone has any info on this I would love to hear it. I'm going to continue clicking on the search button in the meantime! forgot to mention I'm going to be doing a ej20t swap from a 94-96 sti
