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Vehicles

  1. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01049330.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Struts+KYB+W0133-1615015+Front+82-87+Subaru+Strut+Assembly+1985+1983&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COzk5eWCxbwCFUiGfgod-xcA-w Will these work on my 82' 4WD Gl wagon? And has anybody done this? how much lower are they than the 4WD struts? and can i use the stock 4WD springs? thanks guys!
  2. I need some help with an odd electrical issue. (I could not find any existing threads on this, but please point me toward them if they exist!) This is a 1993 Legacy L Wagon with 226k. About a year ago, during the cold Chicago winter, I started noticing the following behavior. At random times, the entire electrical system in the car experiences what seems to be a pulsating voltage change, like a sine wave, at around 80-120 Hz. All the lights pulsate bright-dim bright-dim in unison, and I can hear the cabin fan spin faster/slower in unsion with the lights. Sometimes, the Brake warning light on the instrument cluster will flash on and off in unison as well. I know that the Brake light coming on is a failure mode for the alternator. The alternator is quite new and I had it and the rest of the charging system checked last year - it's all fine. I replaced the battery (needed it anyway) and also the plugs and wires (was having a starting problem). No change. Over the summer, I did not notice this issue. This week, as the cold sets in again (30-50 F), I see the same issue. The only suggestion I've heard is to check the grounds, but since the issue seems related to cold weather, I'm not sure that is the issue. I will have them checked at next service. Any ideas on this? Thanks!
  3. i was learning how to drive in this car and didnt know at the time that it had locking diffs for 4wd which make it very hard to turn on asphalt so i tried to turn into my driveway and ended up hitting a tree breaking my front left corner light(not just the lens, but the entire light). And now i cant find a replacement for the life of me.
  4. Got a 82 GL 4x4 wagon about a month ago. Im really stoked on it its a good runner for the most part. the CV axel went out on it and i had it replaced. Im looking for a new radiator because mine is cracked so i have to keep topping it off. im also looking for some external body parts; rear bumper, front mud flap. maybe a whole new front grill assembly. If anybody is around snohomish county area and has alot of experience with the old gens i would like to meet up and have someone take a look at this wagon and point me in the right direction of what i should do next on this thing. and maybe go rally around (; cheers and thankyou!
  5. Does anyone know whether Outback Wagons were ever produced with the 3.0R (H6) Engine and a manual transmission? I'm looking for an extremely specific model from the early 2000's, but don't want the gas guzzling 2.5T. I've owned both a 2005 Legacy GT Ltd (Manual) and a 2008 Forester XT Ltd (Auto) and need another Subie for my commute. Thanks.
  6. Hey everyone, I'm new here. I decided to join because I am looking into getting a 88 GL Wagon from a man my dad works with. It's the 1.8 (TBI?) coupled to a 5 speed with dual range 4wd, AC, power windows and locks, and silver in color. I might be trading a snowmobile for it otherwise I more than likely will be selling my current car (94 Saturn SL1) and then buying the GL. Anyways, the man who owns it has put a lot of new things into it over the past few years main things being the clutch and motor itself. It has some bubbling paint around where the windshield meets the bodywork. There's also some rust around the rear wheel wells and behind the rear wheels, however the underside of the car looks pretty clean still. I took it for a test drive and it seems to drive okay, it fired right up and was smooth but the clutch pedal had little feel to it and was mushy. Everything else seems clean and functioning. The only things that need work mechanically (to my knowledge) is one side needs new wheel bearings and there is a fuel pressure regulator or something on the gas tank that leaks. With this information that I have provided what is your opinions on it? Is there any red flags or anything that I should be aware of when hopefully purchasing it? Thanks guys!
  7. So i just bought a new gl wagon because i was given a price i could not refuse for a car that was worth double if not triple what i paid. The only issue i have with it is that it does not have 4wd which is a total bummer. Is there any way to convert this beast of a car to 4wd? im planning on lifting it already so the clearance shouldn't be an issue but please correct me if i'm wrong
  8. i just changed out my vacuum rail and all of my hoses connecting but now my GL turns over and then makes this weird backwards turn over sound and then spits either smoke or gasoline out of the carb
  9. I just bought a 4-Door 1984 GL Wagon with 164,xxx thousand miles. it runs and drives well, save for the lack of rear differential mount bushings making a racket in the rear end, the engine surging because the distributor is very sloppy, and the oil dripping from the power steering pump. The power steering pump seems to be leaking between it and the reservoir, so I believe I should be able to take it apart and re-seal it, correct? The distributor just needs to be replaced. The bushings I cannot locate for the life of me so I am looking for suggestions on where to get them or if I should make them. The owner I bought it from had just replaced the shocks and struts all the way around, the starter, got new tires, new seats, rebuilt the tranny, and replaced all seals and gaskets for the engine. This is the first Subaru I've owned, and auto parts stores don't seem to have the parts I need to replace, so where do you guys suggest I look? And what else, if anything, should I look into on this car that could be a problem in the future? Thanks for any feedback.
  10. Hello all, Last summer, after driving on the highway, I heard a squealing sound coming from the passenger front wheel. The next day when driving around 40 mph the wheel locked. I was able to steer it onto the side of the road. The caliper was seized up and I was able to pry it loose. I drove it a few feet and realized I would need a tow. The tow truck was a flat-bed wrecker and pulled the car up onto the bed. While the car was being pulled the locked wheel popped loudly one time and began spinning freely. I was able to roll it backwards into my driveway. This summer I finally got around to working on the vehicle. I purchased new Beck/Arnley loaded calipers, rotors, and hydrolic hoses. I drained the old fluid with a Mytivac and installed new fluid. I tested the ebrake and it does not feel as tight as it was before. I also did a Weber 32/36 conversion which is almost finished. I just have to figure out how to adjust the idle and check my pcv lines for proper routing. The car started up and when I attempted to drive it felt like the wheels were locking up very similalry to when the vehicle felt after it initially ran when I tried to drive it before I called the tow-truck. I had the bearing relaced a couple of thousand miles ago from a very reputable shop, and I am at a loss on what to start working on next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Been surfing this site for a while but couldn't find a thread on researching older subaru's for a noob. Many years ago, I used to own an 88 GL Sedan with D/R 4x4 - nothing could stop it. Later I had a 90 or 92? Loyale wagon with the push button 4wd - good car just not as much grip low end power as the D/R, but a bit better on the HWY. Looking into getting another Loyale or GL wagon with d/r 4wd but don't know all the drawbacks to each model etc. I am not at all a mechanic, but I want to start doing some stuff on my own. Start simple and build on it, but most stuff I would need a mechanic if fixing was needed. I am not looking for a crawler, more like a capable daily driver/cruiser I could take to the beach, mountain, and camping(but able to handle some serious shiggy if needed). Would like to work at making it reliable for longer 1000mi+ car trips too(later). I see a lot of 87 GL wagons with the D/R 4wd for sale at a lot of different prices and newer Loyale wagons with the push button. I am pretty sure I want dual range 4wd but the loyales seem to usually be in better shape. A lot of broken down 87's out there which makes me consider getting the better running Loyale and later swapping in the d/r 4wd- if that is suggested? Questions - looking at spending around 1500 initially... Based on needs should I look at getting an 1987 with D/R or get a 90 or newer Loyale and convert to d/r later on - any idea on cost for shop to do? Is it better to buy something running well at higher price or get something that needs work at a low price? What should I consider when perusing craigslist? Questions to ask? Any advice or links to different threads is appreciated, maybe even links to CL with some pointers on why good buy or not. Just can't believe how much information there is and sifting through it a bit challenging for a noob. Thanks!
  12. Hey guys, i need some advice on how to handle this particular situation, as some of you know, i've been around the forums here asking for advice on various things with my 82 wagon, affectionately named Ruth. So, I'm at the point where i need to decide if it is worth taking Ruth to the mechanic to have the brakes worked on, or if working on the brakes is something that My friend and I can handle. My buddy is pretty mechanically inclined, and has done brake work on similar manual brake systems including a 1970 Camaro, and a few VW bugs. I personally have never done any sort of brake work. So here is whats wrong as far as i have deduced. Brake Pads - They are shot on front passenger side. One of them broke off completely when i was checking them out this morning. I looked and it has been pushed out of place from the last time i drove. So there is the brake pad problem. Brake Rotor - The passenger side brake rotor has a pretty deep bore into the outer most part of the rotor. 99% sure from the busted/worn out pad. So the rotor on that side needs to be replaced, i don't think it can be refinished. Calipers - They look fine on both sides, but because of the busted pad i can't really tell. I feel that i should get the calipers replaced on both sides, or at the very least the passenger side. Brake Pistons - I have not checked, but I think they are fine. Master Brake Cylinder - Almost entirely positive that there is a busted seal in there. The brakes don't leak when parked, but when the car was driving I had to really keep my eye on the fluid tank. The brake has always been a little spongy, but has always been able to brake, fairly hard on a couple of occasions. Still, There is definitely been air in the system, and i don't know if it was me, or the master cylinder was already busted before I bought Ruth. Side Note - there is wetness underneath the Master Cylinder, and i think it has dripped over to the brakes on the drivers side. I don't believe the rubber hoses are having an issue or are in need of replacement. I think the fluid is all from somewhere near or in the Master brake Cylinder. Are these all things that my friend and I, and possibly one of you awesome Forum memebers, could work out? Or should i really take this to a mechanic and have them fix it. Some quick pricing puts me at 200-300 bucks to fix it at home, 500 upwards at a mechanic. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm located in Mountlake Terrace in Washington if anyone is nearby and wants to join the fun if we make this a home project. -Scott
  13. New to the forum and the world of Subarus (for the most part). My girlfriend and I selling our vehicles (hers a 2000 Wrangler, just sold, mine a 2001 Buick, still on the market) and are planning on buiying a sub 100k mile Subaru wagon for between $5k and $7k, preferably around 6500. We don't have a specific model in mind, but I am looking for advice on what the most reliable models in that price range would be (from about 1999 to 2005).. I know Subarus are known for their reliability, but i have noticed here and there on the Web that certain issues arise in certain engines. Any and all input would be appreciated! As of yet, we are still waiting to sell my car before making a purchase. However, we may look at a 2004 Outback H6 with 80k miles this weekend, so any info on that model would be great! I noticed the gas mileage wasn't great and the transmission a bit dated. Any issues? Yay or nay on this model? It's listed at $5900, well below KBB, so I'm just as suspicious as I am excited.
  14. I have major back problems and want to upgrade the struts (maybe spings) and mounts. My aim is not to lower (lots of snow up here), but to improve ride comfort. Not necessarily softer, just smoother. I can't find anything here or elsewhere regarding this. Any informed opinion would be really helpful. Given the cost of the upgrades (vs car value) I can't try a number of systems. Thanks in advance, I am a newbie here. I will be doing the install myself, but will pay someone else to do the alignment.
  15. Hello All, It has been awhile. I installed a lift kit that was provided on the other topic. The kit has been cool and works great. I tore a CV boot and removed the axles. I replaced the boot and I can't for the life of me get the strut pulled in far enough to the center to reinstall. What am I missing here? Eric
  16. What years and body styles interchange for a DR 5 speed transmission? Will the 5 speed DR interchange easily between the models? I know this question has been beat to death, What years and parts interchange between the 2 Gen Brats, Wagons, Hatches and Coupes? I'm mostly interested in the sheet metal and exterior interchange. Thank you, Mike
  17. Greetings to all here in the Ultimate Subaru Message Boards, I recently purchased a Subaru wagon and am having various issues with which I hope some of you can help address. To begin, I purchased the wagon off of Craigs List in the Skagit area of WA. It was originally advertised for $500 and the ad was verbatim: "Its white got the roof rack won't go over 40 mph 4x4 push button stuck on..have title in hand and it runs but i will tow for maybe alittle extra..call me up...not a daily driver project for mechanic...probally a quick fix and flip..." Here's the link: http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/3871124465.html After asking about the 4WD issue and what else is wrong with the car, I managed to talk the seller down to $400 vice the original $500 price tag. I shelled out an extra $50 for him to tow it to my place and that was about 2 weeks ago. To clarify, it's a 1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon 5-Speed SPFI 4x4 non-turbo (VIN 5). Considering the condition of the body, interior and engine from what I could tell, the car's a decent enough deal. The car starts, runs, drives, and stops, but not as well as it should. Before I get too much into the issues and what's been done thus far, please keep in mind I don't have much automotive experience. It wasn't until last year when I purchased my 1st Dodge Ramcharger that I started tinkering. Since then I've worked on another Ramcharger, an '87 CRX, and a '90 Civic. I can manage air filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor caps/rotors, ignition coils, bulbs, headlights, lift supports (hatches), fluid checks/changes, and things of that nature. Basic stuff. I also try to utilize the proper terminology so that I know what I'm referring to when at an auto part store or when getting insight from my mechanic buddies. So, on to the laundry list... - Engine backfiring, - 4x4 won't disengage - Loss of power - Grinding/"whirring" noise in front tires when slowing down - Stalling - Worn bearings/brake rotors? When I first got the car, I started it up and tried reversing. The car stalled out in the clutch-to-accelerator transition. I started it back up, cranked the RPMs to 3k and pulled back into the parking spot it was in. So far I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, and fuel filter as well as giving the car some love with a wipe down and bath. As of last night, my mechanic buddy took out the rear driveline after realizing the lever for the 4x4 (underneath the car) wouldn't budge. I think my transfer case is screwed up, but I don't know for certain. My buddy told me we'd need a lift or floor jack to get the car up high enough to diagnose it better. After he took out the rear driveline, I took the car around the block and it did in fact drive as if it was in FWD vice 4WD. However, there's an odd "whirring"/grinding noise coming from the front tires. It doesn't happen when I apply the brakes, but instead when I coast and am slowing down-thus why I thought it to be bad bearings. Also, the car backfires, has loss of power (RPMs surge, but acceleration is slow), it hates hills with a passion and will stall out easily on inclines. I personally think I either need a new fuel filter and/or intake manifold gasket, wheel bearings, timing redone, and a general tune up, especially with the SPFI. Again, I never claimed to know what in the wide world of sports I'm talking about when it comes to automotive, but I do follow the repair/owner's manuals step by step and to a "t". Any advice is greatly appreciated. More pics will come soon. Andrew
  18. So I just recently raised my Legacy onto Outback Suspension and put 27' General Grabber AT2's on her. I've noticed a HUGE loss of power, which I expected. With a tired out EJ22 I know its time for an engine swap in the short future. My question is, What are my options? I dont want a EJ25 because of the common HG problems. Would a 3.0 out of an H6 Outback work? I'm open to just about anything, but I wanna try to keep it subaru.
  19. Just wanted to say hi to everyone, as I'm new to this forum. I drive an '88 Subaru GL that I've had for going on 4 years now, and love everything about this car! It definitely has its quirks for being 25 years old, but that's what makes it so great! My dad taught me to drive in an '87 Subaru 2-dr hatchback, and my first car was an '81 GL. My dad is a huge fan of these cars, and needless to say I've caught the Subaru bug. I'm really looking forward to being a part of this community!
  20. This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon. Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it. It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt. I can't find a constant 12 any where. Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d
  21. Hey all, Here is me and my wife's new family hauler. Now my xterra can finally just be for work. Loving the mpg on the Subaru. We did some minor aesthetic work. Let me know what you guys and gals think!
  22. FIRST POST! Is 19mpg normal for an '87 GL-10 Turbo wagon? I bought a really clean '87 GL-10 Turbo wagon with an automatic 3 speed transmission a couple months ago. The previous owner only drove it a couple hundred miles for the year he had it. It only has 123,000 miles on it (just a baby!) I'm not really getting the mpg's I was hoping for. I've been driving really conservatively, but I only average about 250 miles per tank (250/13 gallons =19mpg). My question is: Is 19mpg normal or is that low? I realize that pretty much anything that goes wrong with a car is going to hurt your gas milage, but is there anything in particular i should look into given the year and model? Any common problems out there? Anything with older cars in general that should be done to restore gas milage? SUPPLEMENTAL INFO -supposedly the fuel tank capacity is actually 15.9 gallons, but the fuel gauge says its empty at 13, so thats when I've been filling up again and calculating miles. -I also replaced the oxygen sensor and got a new timing belt. -I replaced the fluids when I got it and I've been using a couple different additives -new tires -One thing I've noticed is that the car doesn't coast very well at all. Even on a good decline, if I'm going 35mph and I let my foot off the gas, it'll slow down quite a bit, whereas in my wife's new forester, the car will continue to gain speed just from rolling down the hill. I'm a newbie and certainly no mechanic so please educate!
  23. i got a practically brand new carb off a 87 or 86 loyal wagon for my 86 brat with a ea81. they were almost identical except the mounting bracket.. is there an adaptor i could use? Id really like to use this carb because its literally shiny on the inside its so new. please let me know if there is any way. if not ill be selling it. id prefer to use it myself though.. i can email pics of the new carb i dont wanna mess with adding them on here.
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