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Showing results for tags 'weber'.
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It's inevitable...my weber questions. =\
l75eya posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So, it was inevitable. I've been living by Jes Zek's guide ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ ) as well as Kanury's excellent section ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110926-seshs-1987-gl-build-thread/page-2?hl=sesh ) in his build thread, and this other thread ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126083-weber-carb-for-my-87-gl/page-3 ) while going through my swap. I am missing a few answers I need though.. Basically I'm wondering...what's this? This big black box by the distributor is on the driver's side of the engine and has a large diameter vac line that heads up to where to old air box was. What is it and what can I do with it? My next question is the same, but for a different part This is on the pass. side of the motor. Right above the transmission. Has another very large (pictured) diam. vac line that went to the original air box. What is it and what can I do with it? and then, traveling back to the driver's side of the intake manifold, on the rear side of it is this switch with 1 brown/orange wire attached. I honestly don't remember why I wanted to ask what this was. I'm sure I will when i get back to work on the car tomorrow though. Could you guys please tell me what this is and if it is a necessary component, or something that can be removed. Next up is a multi part question about this thermo-vac switch. This guy is on the pass side and from it's 3 ports it connects to a spaghetti like series of vac ports. As you can see, most of my caps went to it's ports. I want to get rid of it ENTIRELY. Is this possible? I'm pretty sure I tracked the metal lines that come from it and go under the intake manifold pretty well, and I'm fairly certain on of it's lines is what the vac advance off the distributor connects to. I plan on connecting the vac advance to the assigned port for it on the Weber when it's on. if I cap off the three ports on the switch itself, will I be able to remove all these metal lines easily without removing the intake manifold? Pretty sure the switch with the brown wire actuated some type of vac connection I've already removed and that's why I want to get rid of the switch but idk I can't BELIEVE how much stuff I've gotten rid of. It's great! I plan to only have basically Vac. Advance Brake Booster HVAC PCV valve.... That's it I think! And that pleases me greatly. I was GOING to keep the EGR valve, but it was connected to that thing on the fenderwell, and mine has been malfunctioning for years, so I decided to get rid of it and threw the delete plate on today as well. Can't wait to get everything together! -
The little rubber caps I have on all the extra vacuum ports are already cracking and one keeps popping off. Is there a better way to seal these short of taking the intake off and getting them welded shut?
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Has anyone got a spare? DGEV 34/36
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So i have a 85 station wagon, its currently got a weber on it. running great. But i recently bought a 87 FI manual trans wagon for 350$... It even runs! besides some serious fuel flow issues i drove it home 15 miles. My question is if i get the FI system working well, which would be better for mpg, FI or a weber? i plan on transplanting the 5 speed trans in either way.
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Went through high water tonight on way home from work. I bailed out of the street into a drive, was idling like a carp out of water, tried to feed it more fuel didn't seem to make it worse but not any better either. After a couple of minutes it died then couldn't get it started again. Thought it was just vapor locked cause it was backfiring through the Weber 32/36 and then through the exhaust sometimes not every time. So I let it sit for 15 minutes before trying again & same thing. I though maybe I'd be better letting it sit for longer like 45 minutes, still no luck coming back through the carb. I looked for vac hoses that may have come off and saw nothing out of place. Do I need to take the carb apart or let it sit over night and see what it does in the morning? Other thoughts?? Thanks for any input in advance. -
Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
I noticed I've been going through a tank more quickly than normal lately, and popped the hood to see what I could find. I noticed I have a significant leak coming from the bottom end of my weber carb. Looks to be right at the accelerator pump. Hoping it's just that gasket. Here's a video for more clarity. Thoughts anyone? Well, video isn't working right now, may get it loaded later. But it's a very consistent leak that drips a few drops of fuel every time I give it hard throttle. The accelerator pump arm is soaked by rev #5
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so ive been looking into dependability of my ea82t, and was wondering if anyone has ever used the ea82t dual intake mpfi heads for a dual 2 barrel carb set up obviously would require mods to distributor and fuel system, but would it be worth the conversion for the dependability of being carbed instead of turbocharged
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So, ive spent the last 2 weeks either waiting for parts or having to return parts because my local auto parts store always orders the wrong thing. Only to run into problems with the finished project... Here is the run down. Its an EA82 1985 subaru gl station wagon. Recent headgasket failure ( cracked heads ) non existent choke, and possibly a bad starter, and bad breaks. So i recently bought re manufactured heads, and a weber carb, and some shiny new brakes. My subi will be perfect after this! IF i can get it running. Here is what I'm 99% sure of. The cams are timed, the distributor is timed, ( enough to start ) and in correct rotation for TDC ( I have rotated it 180 degrees as i made that mistake and troubleshooted that issue. ) I have gas ( 2.5 psi worth from the fuel line ) I'm 90% sure i have no vacuum leak from the intake. as there is good vacuum there. I have excellent compression on all my heads. ( 120-140 ) So i think i have narrowed it down to spark. Which i have, on all wires but... The only thing i have to suspect is my ignition coil reads a little under spec, and my ignition control module reads as having interference. ( which it shouldn't ) But as i have spark im not sure if that matters. The other fishy thing is that my carb seems to spray alittle gas up through the choke butterfly as it turns over. It is so close to starting its not funny. But it just wont get there. Its just not catching/starting. Please help! I'm at wits end and i need this thing running before the end of the week. -
see my build thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137408-weber-carb-on-an-ea81-in-a-subaru-standard/ so I got a new ea81, a weber carb and all the other pieces. got the correct adapter plate. put the hitatchi throttle cable stay on the weber carb. got a manual choke pull. cleaned the carb and all seems to be functioning. it came off of a small 4-cyl datsun truck. but I can't figure out how to run the throttle cable. it makes no sense. I got this little $25 adapter piece from carbs unlimited in auburn, but no clue where it goes to make the cable work. plus a few other tiny issues I'd like to get sorted out. I'll trade beer and some cash for someone to come show me what's up and get the thing running. I've got a garage and all the tools... but I normally work on MUCH smaller engines (vintage vespas), so all of this is very foreign to me. I'm free this weekend -- preferably sunday afternoon (june 2nd 2013)
