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Showing results for tags 'wiring'.
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So I recently took my car into the shop to have the fenders shaved and new fenders put on so I can fit wider tires. The car came back with the battery indicator light on. SO my best assumption is that a wire was cut during the shaving process. The car runs fine if it has jump leads connected to another car but once I remove the leads after about a minute later (when the juice runs out in the battery) the car shuts off. I assumed this was an alternator problem but after replacing that with a brand new one the issue was still occurring. So I replaced the battery, but the battery indicator light is still on so no/not enough power is getting from the alternator to the battery. Ive contacted the shop that did the work complaining that they must have down something but they are refusing to help. So what I thought about doing (as a temporary solution) was to run a large cable between the alternator and the battery. Is this be just a completely ridiculous idea that's going to short out my system or could this be a temporary solution. If it is a solution, should I put some kind of fuses between them or not? I am fairly uneducated when it comes to the electronics in a car so any help would be much appreciated. Thank you, Keon -
Looking for a wiring diagram for 94 impreza awd for my hopefully soon ej18 swap. Can only find the RHD fsm online. Anyone know where I can find one? -
OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL
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My legacy brighton doesn't have a tachometer. So I went to pick and pull and pulled a cluster out from another vehicle with a tachometer. I installed it and everything seemed to go okay until I drove home and had no speedometer. So I pulled my old speedometer out (thinking it was a loose connection in the back) and switched it with my new one. The speedo worked but now the tach did not. I'm wondering what the problem is with the wiring? Do I need to wire the tach through the speedo? Or should I try putting the tach in my old cluster?- 2 replies
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Thanks for reading! I replaced the light bulbs in my instrument cluster (speedometer) today, and I noticed a wire harness (male end) pretty much right next to my rear defrost button, which is located on the dash just to the right of the ignition. It appears to be the same size and type of harness plug that the rear defrost uses, however, it is a yellow-brownish color, rather than white like the defrost. (I can only assume that was done purposely to be able to tell which was which) There is no button on the dash besides the rear defrost, and I was unable to find a factory service manual anywhere locally. Does anyone happen to have an e copy of the wiring diagram, or even know off the top of their head what this might have once powered, or can power? If possible, I would like to utilize the plug by adding a switch on the dash, which would control the fog lights I have yet to install. -
I am swapping cruise control into an '01 Legacy L / Brighton, and I need some help troubleshooting the completed install. What I've done so far: - Install cruise main switch, steering wheel controls, actuator and cruise computer - Wire cruise actuator through firewall to cruise computer - Wire cruise computer to all respective wires in the vehicle according to the wiring diagram (this was quite a procedure) - Wired in new 4-wire brake and clutch pedal switches and confirmed it has continuity when no pedals are pressed - Tested and verified all switches, bulbs, ignition power sources, etc - Then I plugged in the cruise module and tried it out, and the light on the cruise control main switch will not come on when I press it (I'm assuming it means 'enable the cruise system'). - I have checked fuse 18 and 15, and backprobed all points from the switch and the bulbs to check that the module genuinely isn't responding, but is otherwise powered. My issue is as follows: The cruise enable switch on the dash does not light up when pressed. Bulb works, switch works, power goes to the cruise module, what else do I check?? UPDATE The cruise module wasn't enabling because the sub-switch output to pin 10 of the cruise module was wired at connector B68 by wire-color and not by pin number. On my particular vehicle (Legacy Brighton L), the wire colors on the steering-wheel side of that harness are incorrect and/or mislabeled in either the vehicle or the wiring diagram. Doing this by pin number means that the cruise module now powers on, and the correct 12v signal is seen at the module when the set, resume and cancel buttons are operated, respectively. The issue now is that it will not set cruise, when driving over 40km/h - the switches do not do anything. I need to troubleshoot whether something is inhibiting the cruise system from setting, or whether it is trying to set the cruise, but the actuator is not working. Any ideas are welcome. Please let me know what you guys think is the best next-step to take to get this working. Some photos of the progress Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 -
I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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Hello, I got an 84 brat and it ran awesome, however within 2 days the fuel pump went "out" replace it and still nothing. So a kid my age had it before the owner I got it from and kind of messed with it all. I'd like to rewire is so I know the pump is betting proper voltage and everything. Does anyone live in Vegas or near that would possible help or just schematics for a good rewiring. Also any other help for a restore would be helpful. This will be my first restore. V/R
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Hello people, I'm -finally- putting together my '01 Legacy L summer project, which I started too long ago. So long ago, in fact, that I forgot one or two things already :/ Among those things is where the ground wires/straps go on the engine. I know there are at least two of them: one going from the firewall to the engine (intake?), and one on the passenger-side suspension tower that probably goes directly to the block. But where? Thanks! -
Hey guys. So I'm planning on doing an ej swap into my ea wagon this summer, and although I was planning on using an ej22, I have easy access to two ej25s. One is a SOHC with an incomplete harness, don't know what it came out of or what year it is. The other is a DOHC sitting in a wrecked 97 legacy, complete. From what I understand, the SOHC is the more desirable of the two. So I'm wondering if i can use the wiring and ecu from the DOHC on the SOHC? Is there anything else I would have to swap to make it work? I've seen people ask similar questions, but couldn't find any answers for my situation, so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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So I just picked up my very first Subaru. Its a 2002 Forester L. Of course the jerk who sold it to me forgot to mention that the headlights don't work. I replaced the bulbs with new ones, and still nothing. If I "fiddle" with the drivers side bulb connector I can get both of the headlights to come on, but they are very dim. Oh, and the passenger brights come on... WTF?!? I checked the ground cleaned it off and it didn't change anything, also I squirted some dielectric grease one the headlight connectors because they're a bit corroded, drivers side is actually burnt a little bit too. I'm assuming the problem is bad three prong female connectors, but i'm confused on why both headlights turn on very dimly when I fiddle with the drivers side connector. Any tips/advice would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance. -
So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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Hi! Trying to wire 2001 Subaru cruise control into my van. I have all the CC parts and wires, but they are all cut. I've been told there is 1 wire that goes from the cruise control module (brain) to the Subaru ECU, but I cannot tell from any factory diagrams or charts I have in my manuals, which one it is. 2001 Subaru Legacy 2.5L, MT Is there a wire that goes from the CC module (brain) to the ECU? Is the PIN 19 (Vehicle Speed Sensor)? Thanks! Jason -
Just picked up a 1990 legazy auto for cheap. only got it cheap because a pack rat ate the engine harness up. so i got a new harness from a junk yard. replaced it and turns out it has been parked the past 4 years was im pretty sure the ignition control module went out. only cylinders 1 and 2 firing. not 3 and 4. well did research on here and check the continutiy between the coils and control module. good. changed coils. no change. so going to get a new on of those. but to be sure that it's not a ground issue i need help locating where this one ground goes. on the passenger side under the abs unit there are 2 grounds. one from the headlight harness that goes to body and the other one i can not find any place that it would hook up. can some on please point me in the right direction or picture. i got the manual with the ground locations but its so vauge it just doesn't help. thanks
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I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!! -
Looking for a schematic for 2008 Outback dashboard. Specifically looking for 'Oil Sensor' and 'Oil Light' wiring. Thanks in advance, MTG -
So I just picked up a 97 Legacy Outback with 130k for $3000. It had the stock radio in it until one day I took it out to hook up a sub and amp. When I took the stereo out I tore 2 wires on accident. A yellow wire and a green and white wire. I connected them and put the radio back in seeing as it isn't compatible with a sub or amp. The radio wasn't working so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse, still no radio, ensured the wires that tore were connected and they were. Still nothing. Think I fried the radio? Im about to go on a 4 hour road trip in a few days and I want some tunes. Help? -
So, I'm wondering about the potential of using a stock ECU for an engine swap. Does anyone know what would be required to use the stock ECU for a 2007 ez30r in a different vehicle? has anyone tried to swap this engine and had results with said stock ECU? I've heard that there might be a bunch of issues with regard to the fact that there wouldn't be a bunch of sensors that the ECU would expect to be present, but I'd REALLY love to save the $2200 that would be potentially spent on a aftermarket ECU (I'm considering the Haltech p2000 sport since it looks like it can run the AVCS programs) Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
In This Writeup: ► Understanding How a Relay Works. ► Knowing which Wire is for, at the Round Relays. ► How to Swap the Old Worn Relays with Newer, more Capable ones. ► Finding the Location of the Relays on a Subaru EA82 (Third Gen Leone / Loyale) ► Learning to Wire New Relays if Desired... in case you wanna Run Halogens, Bigger Horns, etc... ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ First of All: I Hope this Write Up will Help anyone with Electrical Problems due to bad Relays, Such as Power Windows, Air Conditioneer, HeadLamps, Halogens ...etc... also you'll learn how a Relay Works and How to Easily Wire New Relays. You Know that when you Switch Almost Anything Electric in your any car There is a Relay Takin' the Main Job of Sending the Power to the Accesory you Switched On; the Switch that you Touch or Handle, is just a "Remote Control Signal Sender" to those Relays. Very Long Long Time Ago, I had Problems with my Subarus' Electric Powered Windows, and then Long time ago with the Air Conditioneer too, I Found that the Fault of Slow Workin' / Non Workin' Power Windows was due to a Bad Relay; Also The good ol' subies had A/C Engaging & keep workin' Compressor Problems. An Easy Fix Would be to Just Change the Round Original 22 Amps Relay, But Those Relays aren't Easy to Find, They Need the Whole 12V Power to engage Properly, they are Expensive, and they are only 22 Amps Rated ... ... Beside that at this point of the wirings' life, their Sockets (Plugs) Could be burnt too... In my Own humble opinion, the Best Solution of All is to Swap There Bosch Standard Relays. I've Done it to the Main A/C Relay, the Two Auxiliary A/C Relays, the Power Windows' Relay, and the two HeadLamps Relays. I'll Explain How To do that swap Here, with Photos. Bosch Standard Relays comes in Many Quality Brands, Not Only Bosch (By the way, I Saw Bosch's Made in Portugal, Germany and Brazil, rated at different Amps) There are many Other Brands that Make the Bosch Standard relays, like Hella, Wagner, Flösser, Osram, Sylvania, Potter & Brumfield ... etc ... so They are Easy to Find, They are Cheaper than stock round relays, and Give Better / Faster Response; they just need as Little as 8 Volts to Engage, also Bosch Standards are more Reliable, and are Rated from 30 Amps to 40 Amps, so They'll Last Longer too ... ... Warning! - Please Forget about Cheapo bad quality relays. In Example, This is a photo of a "Potter & Blumfield" 40 Amps Relay, Made in USA, The one that I've Swaped in, instead the Main A/C Relay Under the DashBoard: But to Swap a Bosch Standard Relay in your Subie, You'll Need to Cut off the Subie's Plug and Weld there a Bosch Standard Plug ... Or use an Adaptor. I'll Explain How to do That Too, is Easier than you Could Imagine, but keep Readin' Carefully, and Do Not Forget to Remove one of the Battery Terminals prior to Start Cutting / Welding any Wire. Please: Be Careful While doing this, follow this instructions at your own Risk. The Plugs' Swap is needed to be Done just once for each Relay Unit; then in the Future if you Need to Change any Bosch Standard Relay, the Plug Stays, you only Need to Pull the old Relay from it, and put there a Fresh New Relay; and That's it!- 6 replies
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Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz -
Hello, Is this a common problem with a common fix? Does anyone know the reason for this? The 15 amp fuse that keeps blowing out is for ECC, Room, Stop. Stop is the brakes, Room is the interior, so what is ECC? I thought to look at the brake pedal switch, but dont know where it is. -
Hi, I've recently gotten a 2001 Outback Limited Sedan [2.5L AWD, no turbo], and the Cigarette lighter just stopped working. I was right in the middle of inflating my mini-spare with a so-called "Truck-Air" tire compressor. It's just bigger and faster and works better than the micro mini ones you see everywhere. Problem is, it also draws more juice, and I have to run it for 1.5 min. then "rest" for 5, then another 1.5 mins. If I run it longer, the lighter socket fails (yeah, I'm an idiot for forgetting to rest the circuit. HOWEVER, The fuse at the fuse box is ok. I found no burned fuses at the dash fuse box at all. This issue also happened with my '94 legacy 2.2. using the same air compressor. Under a minute duty cycle, it worked fine over and over, but after about 1.75 minutes it stopped and the lighter was dead. My Subaru mechanic guru at the time said something to the effect of "generally, over-drawing the lighter in the non-outback legacies often burns out a wire at the back of the lighter, something 'it's a basic repair', but one that takes considerable time to get at from behind the lighter unit, and he didn't recommend I spend my hard-earned money on it. I did as he suggested & simply added a 3 way accessory adapter and wired it in using a 'piggyback fuse adapter' to an existing 20 amp circuit that wasn't overloaded or critical to anything [airbags etc]. It worked fine. It was easy to get to the front AND behind the box to access the wires. NOT SO in the 2001 Outback. The redesign from '94 to 2001 seems to be intended to make it completely impossible to easily work on any of the wiring [just pull and check mini-fuses] and I can't use the piggyback fuse tap, since the front of the fuse box is butted directly up against the coin tray. There's no room. After realizing that I'd have to take apart much of the dash [neck arthritis] to even get to the back of the fuse box, I decided to try one of those "unused" connectors that one finds hanging about under the dash [NOT the code readers etc]. Usually the loose ones are for options you didn't get, or for other models with the same basic harness. I found 12 volts at one lead, cut stripped it and connected a pigtail 'split off' the wire. I reattached everything and checked for power, and when I did the horn honked for just a nano-second. Didn't think much of it. Looking back, I think [just my luck] I split off what is probably the 'unused' car alarm wiring [i have no car alarm], since everything tested fine for power and ground, BUT when I plugged my ipod charger in to the accessory adapter the car horn started sounding continuously. There HAS to be a better, smarter, easier way to do this. Are there other fuses or relays that could have fried under the load from the air compressor causing only the cig lighter in the car to fail? Everything else in the car works, and all fuses at the box test good. I'd REALLY like to repair the orig. cig lighter, but only IF I don't have to disassemble the entire console and half of the dash, trashing my arthritic neck in the process. Any ideas? I have the Haynes manual for the car, but I've had so many 2.2L Legacies (5) which were easier to work on, I'm a fish out of water here. Suggestions? I don't see any help in the Haynes manual. -
Well hi there. Upon the installation of a nice Alpine deck, replacing my GL's stock AM/FM radio - I've ran into a few issues. 1 - Confirmed left front speaker blown 2 - Confirmed right front speaker inoperable? 3 - Left rear speaker missing 4 - Right rear speaker intact - though speaker wires in panel are cut? Kay - Those were simply "discoveries" I @#$%'d up maybe a thing or two. This was my first stereo install. I'm not mad, I think I did pretty well considering a lack of previous experience. Would someone perhaps like to elaborate - "Switched Power" vs. Battery Lead. Switched power is... When the car is turned to ACC or ON, no? Regardless of how I wire it, when the engine is shut off, the deck shuts off as well. I've seen a few threads on here relating to such issues, though perhaps they didn't answer my questions. I'll be picking up speakers later today. Wiring <what> to <what>... Can screw <what> up? What should I wire "Illumination" to? Thank you fellow enthusiasts. -
Long time no post. Been trying to get my Brat registered again. Anyway. I was putting in a new coil today and had a question on the wires. I know that black wire w/ white stripe = positive, and that yellow = negative. However I've got 2 wires leftover that I'm not quite sure of. Picture here: http://chattypics.com/files/ignitioncoil_ronoigylbk.jpg So here's how I have it hooked up right now. I just want to see if what I've done is correct. Specifically wire #1 and #6. Wire 1 - Negative. The wire is solid black and attached to the little metal thing with the screw to the left of the ignition coil. It goes to a ground on the engine block so I assumed negative. Wire 2 - Negative. Yellow wire Wire 3 - Positive. Black w/ white stripe Wire 4 - Positive. Black w/ white stripe Wire 5 - Negative. Yellow wire. Wire 6 - Positive. Yellow wire, but goes to carb. Car would turn over but never start with this unhooked, or with this hooked to negative. Once I hooked to positive car starts fine. Once again looking for input as to what I've done is correct, specifically #1 and #6. Thanks!
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This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon. Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it. It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt. I can't find a constant 12 any where. Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d
