Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '1987'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Occupation


Ezboard Name


Referral


Biography


Vehicles

Found 7 results

  1. I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
  2. I have a problem when I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down like it is not getting enough gas or something. If I slowly depress the pedal the engine does speed up but when put under load, it bogs down again. I have been fighting this on and off for a few weeks now. I had initially thought it was bad gas so when I worked through a tank or two it seemed to return to normal for a time. However it has returned. I added SeaFoam to the tank but it has not resolved the problem. I can find no vacuum leaks and the car idles normal, no skipping or misfiring. I can't imagine it is bad gas at this point. I looked on the formums before posting and did find another person with a similar issue in a 89 wagon and his was a coil issue. Could this be what is happening with mine?
  3. Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.
  4. Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
  5. So the title pretty much says it all, can't get my brat's interior lighting to work besides the dome. Would very much like to have that, what are the main wires for that? Also, my heating doesn't work, but I don't have my ac compressor connected, don't know if that's the problem or not. Anything helps Thanks
  6. mtnjimmi

    soob GL

    just trying out my new water pump, much work to do on it
  7. A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
×