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Found 10 results

  1. Hi everyone - I'm new here. I have been having ongoing problems starting my 1992 Loyale and it has been diagnosed as needing to have replaced the idle air control valve and/or the throttle position sensor. The repair shop has notified me that they are having trouble finding the parts anywhere. Does anyone know where we might be able to locate them?
  2. Hello, so I bought a '92 loyale 6 weeks ago off craigslist, 240k mi on it. Its my first car and I'm really excited but a couple weeks ago the tail running lights went out and I got pulled over. I replaced the bulbs, still out. Brought it to a mechanic and after checking some stuff he is hesitant to start checking wires for shorts. He doesnt have a wiring diagram and cant find one online. I know little about cars and less about car wiring, so any help is very appreciated!! More info: -All fuses were checked by the mechanic and are good -Headlights work -Mechanic removed headlight switch and all four of those copper switch things move and get power -Mechanic also checked tail sockets for voltage, brake light side works but tail light side doesnt, he said. -Hazard lights work (besides front left) -Car battery is from 2014, has lower but okay voltage according to walmart battery test. One of the two O clamp things on the battery is cracked and I'm going to replace it. -Went to start car a couple mornings and battery was dead, but could start up immediately after jumper cables were connected -Dome light is out -Front left blinker is out -Dashlights just failed a couple days ago -Cigarette lighter doesn't convert power or heat up. This is important because I need to plug a converter in.
  3. I am looking for new bushings for my lower control arm in a 92 Loyale. Lordco and Napa have nothing. Any ideas where to find some? Thanks. Located in Golden, BC
  4. I've got a 97 Legacy Outback that needs an alternator, and I just so happened to have an Extra 92 Legacy Alternator. The positive plug ins are different but everything else matches up so I'm going out on a limb and assuming the 92 Alternator will work for the 97. Is there a way to make these plugs compatible?
  5. Hey Subaru Nation - I have a 1992 Legacy 2.2 (non-turbo) and I'm trying to diagnose some idling issues. The car runs fine but once its warmed up it begins to surge idle at stops (sometimes stalling). I had a cracked air intake and I replaced it with no resolve and I've cleaned out the throttle body and I'm currently replacing the Idle air control valve with a new one (new gaskets all around). My next option is replacing the mass air flow sensor. My current sensor has 5 pins and all of the replacements I've seen online have 5 slots but only 4 pins?? Does it matter? Will the 4 pin work the same? Also if anyone has any further ideas or sollutions for idling issues - I'm much appreciative. I've also changed out the coolant/thermostat. Thanks for the help!
  6. I bought this Subaru about 2 weeks ago for a couple hundred bucks on a rainy dark night. Ran, shifted, and stopped just fine. Bought it and drove it around until i had to registar it. Then i started poking around. To the point: Can somebody provide me with a picture of the o2 sensor plug/location? I have been tracing wires on and off for a while and cant seem to find where the o2 sensor connects into the harness. The wires coming off of the sensor itself have definitely been cut off, but i wouldnt this they would have cut the harness as well... Im starting to wonder if the previous owner chopped it off when they swapped in a new engine. (Still an ea82 Spfi) Much appreciated.
  7. Greetings to all here in the Ultimate Subaru Message Boards, I recently purchased a Subaru wagon and am having various issues with which I hope some of you can help address. To begin, I purchased the wagon off of Craigs List in the Skagit area of WA. It was originally advertised for $500 and the ad was verbatim: "Its white got the roof rack won't go over 40 mph 4x4 push button stuck on..have title in hand and it runs but i will tow for maybe alittle extra..call me up...not a daily driver project for mechanic...probally a quick fix and flip..." Here's the link: http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/3871124465.html After asking about the 4WD issue and what else is wrong with the car, I managed to talk the seller down to $400 vice the original $500 price tag. I shelled out an extra $50 for him to tow it to my place and that was about 2 weeks ago. To clarify, it's a 1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon 5-Speed SPFI 4x4 non-turbo (VIN 5). Considering the condition of the body, interior and engine from what I could tell, the car's a decent enough deal. The car starts, runs, drives, and stops, but not as well as it should. Before I get too much into the issues and what's been done thus far, please keep in mind I don't have much automotive experience. It wasn't until last year when I purchased my 1st Dodge Ramcharger that I started tinkering. Since then I've worked on another Ramcharger, an '87 CRX, and a '90 Civic. I can manage air filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor caps/rotors, ignition coils, bulbs, headlights, lift supports (hatches), fluid checks/changes, and things of that nature. Basic stuff. I also try to utilize the proper terminology so that I know what I'm referring to when at an auto part store or when getting insight from my mechanic buddies. So, on to the laundry list... - Engine backfiring, - 4x4 won't disengage - Loss of power - Grinding/"whirring" noise in front tires when slowing down - Stalling - Worn bearings/brake rotors? When I first got the car, I started it up and tried reversing. The car stalled out in the clutch-to-accelerator transition. I started it back up, cranked the RPMs to 3k and pulled back into the parking spot it was in. So far I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, and fuel filter as well as giving the car some love with a wipe down and bath. As of last night, my mechanic buddy took out the rear driveline after realizing the lever for the 4x4 (underneath the car) wouldn't budge. I think my transfer case is screwed up, but I don't know for certain. My buddy told me we'd need a lift or floor jack to get the car up high enough to diagnose it better. After he took out the rear driveline, I took the car around the block and it did in fact drive as if it was in FWD vice 4WD. However, there's an odd "whirring"/grinding noise coming from the front tires. It doesn't happen when I apply the brakes, but instead when I coast and am slowing down-thus why I thought it to be bad bearings. Also, the car backfires, has loss of power (RPMs surge, but acceleration is slow), it hates hills with a passion and will stall out easily on inclines. I personally think I either need a new fuel filter and/or intake manifold gasket, wheel bearings, timing redone, and a general tune up, especially with the SPFI. Again, I never claimed to know what in the wide world of sports I'm talking about when it comes to automotive, but I do follow the repair/owner's manuals step by step and to a "t". Any advice is greatly appreciated. More pics will come soon. Andrew
  8. Hi guys. I redid all my brakes a year ago and bled the lines (first timer) and my brakes came out almost non-existent. Pedal to the floor and no action. The garage rebled my brakes and it was much better but they weren't terribly strong. Before me changing them, the pedal would not got to the floor like this (the brakes were worn badly but pedal travel and strength was normal). A year later of having quirky brakes that I have managed fine, another garage tells me the master cylinder is gone. The brakes are definitely worse now. 1st pump typically gets nothing, second pump is fine. Pedal travels to the floor the first time and the second time when it engages, the pedal travel seems right. The garage says he can't find a master cylinder. A lot of chatter on here says the MC hardly goes. Any thoughts? Thanks
  9. 1992 Subaru Loyale My left front calliper seized today while driving through Vancouver. I am here intermittently for the next month. Does anyone have a parts car around these parts? I could use a new calliper and master cylinder. Thanks, Brian
  10. To make a long story short my uncle towed it in over a timing belt. They let him have it, cheap. And i got it for the scrap from a very worn ouT XT. one belt and a quart ATF (to stop the ticking), and I have a new daily driver.
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