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Found 16 results

  1. Here is video of the problem. I am hoping one of you can steer me in the right direction. My mechanic is less then helpful so far. And now is out of state. I have checked the battery with a volt meter, it reads 12.4 . When the car is on it goes up to 13.8, when i turn ac and lights on it fluctuates between 13.6 and 13.8. I have replaced the plugs and wires so far. But not sure where to head next. Ill get a video of it in the day time. But hopefully you can hear the issue. There is a sliht whine and the weirs pulsing sound. The idle doesnt go up or down, like most peoples issues on the web that ive found. It mainly does it when starting until it warms up , but it does it slightly when turning on the blinker i notice the check engine light dim in rhythm . Help? Thanks to the advice i found it was a faulty alternator, and i found how to fix it myself
  2. I have taken my crank shaft pulley off and know I need to get a new one. I am wondering if I am going to have to replace this other piece that the crank shaft fits onto though. I know I need a Woodruff key for it as well but will buying a new pulley and a woodruff key and putting it on fix my car. Or do I need to fix this other piece inside here?
  3. Hello everyone I'm new to the forum, also new to the Subaru owner ship. I recently bought a 1995 Subaru impreza 2.2L, automatic with Ej22 engine, and 4dr. I got it really cheap and it was running fine and smooth. Recently it started leaking oil and it's dripping on the down pipe I think, and also power steering is leaking. But the thing is I don't know where the leak is coming from. If any of you ever had this problem please help me out narrowing it down so I know what to fix, and buy. I tried putting all info I could think of, and sorry if this had been asked before. Thank you for reading and hope I can get some help and guidance thank you.
  4. Hello, I have a 97 Legacy Wagon that they harmonic balancer has become loose on. It will no longer keep the belts on for power steering and alternator. So therefore I can not drive it to work. I think the bolt is not just loose and assume it is a bigger issue. What could be the problem? And will buying a replacing just the pulley fix this issue? Thanks for the help.
  5. Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  6. I have recently pulled a EJ22 engine to swap into a 94 Legacy that threw the rod. I have removed EJ22 engines a few times on other 2.2L Subies, done timing belts, and it is a fairly simple process. My question is the engine I've found has several oil leaks which I would like to clear up before installing. One of the confusing ones is the Camshaft o-ring replacement. On the back of the engine (passengers side?) it seems like the oil is weeping out of the cover which is bolted down on the head. I understand there is an o-ring in here as well as one on the opposite head in front. Are these o-rings easy to replace and can I get some advise or a link into a string that goes over this? I can't find this process discussed in any depth within the forum.
  7. Hi Subardudes/ettes. I am fresh to the forum, hailing from Portland, OR. I am seeking advice on a car that I like, one that is beginning to test me, but one that I think I may marry myself to. At least, she is worthy of seeking advice upon I have a 1992 Loyale 4WD (push-button) wagon, with roof rack. It has been an adventure-mobile. I would like it to be even moreso. The engine is leaking oil typically I believe, but leaking all over, and over the last year has been burning more - I top off a quart per tank of gas. But I'm getting tired of the smoking, I'm trying to quit. It has broken down on me just once, we put a new distributor cap/rotor in, and it seems to be an improvement. But we'll see what happens when it gets hot out again. I like the car enough that I would consider a rebuild. I do not want an outback, and I don't know if I'll get my hands on a 2.2L Impreza in my budget. However, my one struggle with the Loyale is the lack of power - I am considering having a 2.2 installed. I don't know much about cars, but I know there is more to consider. I am looking for the pertinent questions to ask as to whether it will be worthwhile to upgrade this particular car. Electrical? Power distribution? Transmission? Everything? The car runs decent at this point, minus the recent breakdown, but it seems like it would be worth it. Next I need an idea of what accompanies the transfer over to a 2.2L - and will this add up to several thousands of dollars? I could have the current engine rebuilt for under $2000. OR, is there another engine that could go in there that will give me some more power? Thanks so much, feel free to post links to articles/threads, I can do the research. ~rj
  8. My 98 Legacy has a constant ringing noise coming from the engine, which becomes louder as the RPMs rise. I've attached a video of the noise at idle; I suspect it is from the pulleys, but I'd like a second opinion. is the video.
  9. bought a used 96 subaru legacy outback 300000 miles. when i bought it i noticed that when i turn the key to start i would hear a buzz from a relay under the dash, i would have to turn the key 2-3 more times before the car turned over. somedays it starts right up. i found the relay (starter relay) and replaced it. still does it. later i replaced the stereo and unhooked the battery to do so, and the keyless entry unit started making weird clicking sounds. not knowing it was also the anti-thief unti i just unplugged it and went on my way. same starting issue. after work the other day, i got in and tried to start the car and nothing. over and over again no crack. checked power at relay, replaced starter same thing. battery is good, finally found online to take the power lock fuse out after resetting the keyless entry unit and it started. ran it like that for a few days. now it wont start at all. the check engine light has been on since ive owned it. code say P0135 (O2 sensor) P0304 (cylinder 4 missfire) P0507 (idle air control) and ABS light is on. today after work i got in it and it will not start. we've tried everything. Need help! (im new to forums so please be easy one me veterans) ask any question. thanks
  10. Hello, First post on this Forum! It has been killing me on my 1997 Subaru outback to get the pin connections out of the baby blue B84 connector. I am trying to ground out Pin #81 to remove the CEL for the egr valve. The previous owner swapped the 2.5 for a 2.2. They changed the original automatic transmission to a 5 speed, so I am getting the CEL for the EGR because originally the car had a EGR valve but the new 2.2 does not have an EGR. So after hours of research I found if you ground out Pin 81 at the ECU it will tell the ECU that the car is a manual and does not require an EGR. Here in lies the problem, I for the life of me can not get the pins to release to move them! Could some one please let me know the secret to releasing the pins! I have stuck tiny screwdrivers in every hole and cant get one to release, there is not wire retainers to release. If you look at the pic below you can see what connector I am trying to work with. Thanks! connector.pdf
  11. NOTE: this is a pretty lengthy question. If you dont want to read the whole thing there is a simple question at the bottom of the post. Though I highly encourage you to read the whole thing. THE SETUP: I was recently offered a deal by someone I know. He has a 1995 Legacy LSi BK wagon with a stock EJ22. He did a WRX drivetrain swap and swapped in a 5 speed from a JDM STi. Then upgraded the suspension with Bilsteins shocks/struts. Then added WRX wheels and a WRX front brake conversion. Outback limited interior swap, too. Some radio upgrades to top it off as well. The engine is kept stock since he meant to do a WRX engine swap to make a nice sleeper. He offered to sell me the car since he found a jetta 5 speed TDI wagon hes been looking for. THE DEAL: for $3,000 I get the car, rust free, another EJ22 with 140k on it, two GT hoods, GT side skirts, and a GT spoiler. THE SCARY PART: said stock EJ22 has 234,000 miles. And I would have to sell my low-miles 97 EJ25D 4EAT OBW to pay for it. The guy who did all the work is the bishop at my girlfriends church, works in a shop, and has owned 4 second gen legacies. He has done countless rebilds and I trust his work, it is very professional and complete. I have no worries about the swap, or any of the drivetrain, as its complete and too over-built for the 2.2 to do any damage to. MY PROBLEM: My concerns are with the milage on the engine... He said he got the second engine in a package deal with the JDM transmission and was told it ran, but never actually saw it run. Its a complete long block with accessories. 140k apparently. He intended to build it up a little but never has time. MY BIG PROBLEM is that since im still a young'n and live with my parents, they freak out if i consider anything above 100k miles. They know nothing about cars. My 97 OBW has just ticked over to 80k. Im worried about head gasket failure, and i have a leak behind my timing belt cover so timing belt, re-seal, water pump, somewhat failing thermostat is around $800. A head gasket job is $2400. My car works ok for now but I cant shake the feeling that its either a ticking time bomb or that something expensive will happen. Im working two jobs and dont have the time to work on it myself. THE SIMPLE QUESTION: how reliable is a 234,000 mile EJ22? And how can I convince my parents that?
  12. Hey USMB! I just bought my first Subaru, and officially my first car with my own money! I previously drove a 97 Honda Accord Coupe which was shared with my dad and after that a 97 Lexus ES300 that I shared with the girlfriend. The ES started out as her car 5 years ago but recently got into a small accident and got totaled with 207k on the clock, which led to finding and buying this lovely Red wagon. It's a 2000 Impreza Outback Sport with stock everything except head unit, which was installed with a pry-bar it seems. I am the third owner and bought it with it's timing belt and water pump replaced but there is still an occasional squeak from one of the accessory belts. After a couple days owning the car I replaced the fluid in the Diffs with Mobil 1 75W-90 and did the first half of the tranny drain and fill, next weekend I will re-drain, change the ATF filter and re-fill with Mobil 1 ATF. I got new tires and an alignment last week and the whine from the rear diff is gone and it rides and shifts smooth. I hope to learn as much as I can from maintaining and gently modding this car, the most work I've ever done to a car previously was take apart a center console or replace a worn half shaft on the ES 300. Still, I've found plenty of good DIYs and have been reading up the FSM to start fixing the little things. Like that belt squeak - it's only when the car is cold and only for a few seconds before it goes away. The power steering belt looks brand new and I was told it was changed, tension looks good. The AC belt is maybe a little looser but does not feel loose by my approximation but the belt does not look as new, although it doesn't look worn, I'll grab a tensioner for a few dollars and check and adjust Otherwise, I'm looking for a retractable cargo cover and hopefully free up a bit of money for something other than steelies -Sam
  13. OK, here goes. Have a bad driver side front diff oil seal. Doing the CVs while I'm at it. Background- had a center diff bearing fail (shatter) 20K ago, split the tranny, found the bearing fragments and replaced no problem (also found some other old fragments of hardened metal from something else which failed and was repaired prior to my owning it). Kept the old seals and slid the halves back over the diff seals. Did not reset the backlash with the differential side retainers when it went back together (pops reassembled while I was at work, he couldn't help himself). Must I pull the trans to do this job like the manual calls out, or can I simply pull the side retainer, swap the seal & O-ring and reinstall the side retainer to the same exact point (indexing its original position/turns)? If I must pull the trans its all good, have all the necessary tools/equipment.
  14. Have my 99 OBS with EJ22, 120K on engine, 173k on chassis, Weapon R Dragon Short ram Intake (no CEL over rides needed) new timing belt, plugs & Wires. I've owned it since 140K and done some restorative maintenance on the powertrain (tranny bearing, center diff, CVs, U-joints, back to stock exhaust setup) When moderately accelerating in any gear from low RPM to high RPM ( 1200- 3200) it hesitates/hiccups until 3200/3400 when it cleans up and picks up steam solidly. Damn near like hitting a powerband on your 2stroke dirtbike! like when a boggy turbo finally overcomes lag and boost kicks in (mind you this thing is not turboed!). ALso it is critical to note I am not changing the throttle position during acceleration, just depressing the pedal to mid throttle and waiting for it to tach up so it will stop hiccuping and get my butt down the road. No DTCs according to the Innova, timing is on according to spec. If I drive miss daisy it will accelerate smoothly up through the tach range. Hypotheses so far: 1) clogged fuel filter 2) fuel pump working on taking a crap 3) clogged injectors 4) gremlins, drunken gremlins
  15. I have a 96 Legacy L Wagon with an EJ22 in it. I have 120,000 on the car, I bought it 3,000 miles ago. Now I have a head gasket leaking coolant from the passenger side under the timing belt cover (according to my mechanic). The car runs fine. It has not overheated. I brought it in to have the cam and crank seals done because they were dumping oil. I am reading more and more about how uncommon this head gasket issue is on the 2.2. I am starting to wonder if this guy has it wrong. Is there something else I should check out? In order to do this, I need to cut some of the parts costs. Do I have to get OEM head set? Is there something more reasonably priced available that will hold up for the many miles I have left on this engine if I can get it on track again? Quoted parts: $440 That seems higher than it has to be from my searches around the web. Do I have to put in a new head bolt, too? I know some are designed to expand once. Is that true on this? Quoted: $125 I have checked out few videos showing how easy it is to plane the heads, too. Easy enough for me to do on my own without messing it up? That would cut a significant cost for me, too. Quoted: $150 I would love to dig into it myself, but without a lot of experience, I need a big confidence boost or someone who knows more than me to help me out with it. Thanks for you help.
  16. I bought a 99 obs about three months ago and its been giving me some funny problems. the cars got 260k miles and im looking to get another 100k at least. Luckily its the 2.2l but when it warms up it feels like it wants to stall at idle. drives great and idles fine at first, but after sitting for maybe 7 seconds the rpms drop from about 500 to between 250 and 300. The car and engine shake really bad and it sounds like its running on two cylinders. I recently replaced the spark plugs with bosch platinums but didnt happen to check the gapping. also the wires were changed at about 160k miles but they are not oem. checked all the hoses I could see and didnt find any holes or cracks and just adjusted my throttle cables which fixed my cruise control issue but still no luck on this darn idle. any pointers would be great! also i dont know if it could be related but I put a cai on it and didnt want to run at all. Maybe faulty MAF sensor?
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