Search the Community
Showing results for tags '99 legacy'.
Found 4 results
-
Greetings, We bought this car from an auction house. 99 Legacy Wagon Anniversary Edition, EJ-22 engine runs nice and quiet but powerful enoough. Lovely paint and interior, was probably garaged most of its life. Problem was evident as I drove it home. It's scarey to turn the car except at very low speed. When I turn the wheel, something seems to bind up and buck, in a somewhat rythmic way. The sharper the turn, the more it binds. At 4 mph around a 90 degree turn as in a street intersection, it binds and lets go maybe twice per second. I'm afraid to take a corner much faster for fear of breaking something. The odometer says 73,000 miles. The transmission shows that somebody has been inside. There is silicone on the gasket and the filter is new. I suspect it may have come from another car. The transmission slips a bit tasking off. I looked into replacing the transmission with a used one, but with the labor of doing the R&R, it seemed prudent to spend the money and have the tranny overhauled. It's at the transmission shop now, but the mechanic doesn't want to start the overhaul until he understands what's causing the bucking/binding. As you know, the front differential is part of the transmission. He says there are 37 teeth on the ring gear. My favorite mechanic says there are some with 37, 39, or 41 teeth. It's important for the front and back wheels to turn at the same rate, so the ring and pinion gears muist be the right sizes. So, questions: Is this the likely cause of the problem, or is there another possible issue? What was the original tooth count on the ring gear in the transmission that this car came with from the factory? If the answer is not 37, then should I buy a used transmission? How can I ensure the proper gear ratio if I buy a used one? Many thanks for your thoughts and expertise. -
I got a P1133 code which is upstream O2 sensor gone bad I think. Anybody know where it's located or have a video. 99 legacy L 2.2 -
So I've already got the EJ25, from my legacy, sourcing a 22 block won't be hard. Head gasket is tricky to me, where to modify it for oil lines ect. Also engine management, should I get a megasquirt? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149590-anyone-built-a-reverse-frankenmotor/ I read through this thread which is quite good except there's some things I diassagree with ej22t crank & rods -- same as the non turbo ej25 (NA) block halves. The whole point of this is to use the ej22 short block ej25 DOHC heads ('96 with hydro adjusters) -- should be able to just use my heads newer EJ25 flat top pistons -- Aren't my current pistons/ the 22's pistons sufficient? ej20g intake manifold with 440cc injectors -- One of the 2 manifold I have will be good, no? vf8 turbo (ej20g) ej22t exhaust (until I put the downpipe in) ej22t fuel pump 2002 WRX top mount IC ej22t bypass valve (I replaced with the TurboXS one) ej22t ECU & wiring harness. original ej25 harness/ECU is gone, and the ej22t ECU sits in it's place, and is all wired in, and I can check code like normal (ej22t way) -- I shouldn't have to use a 22 turbo block, can just use a normal block, almost the exact same. So the wiring harness mesh is moot then, right? Would absolutely love to do this build, but need to have all the parts before I do the biuld, and have as much of it pre assembled as I can as it's my dd. Thanks - H -
Hello gentlemen, The last few days have been brutal, temperature wise, hitting -30C to -40C. My 99 Legacy GT has been having problems starting. I first noticed the problem when using my remote starter. It didn't start up until about 3-4 minutes after I pressed the button. My Compustar system tries to start the car a few times before giving up. Usually, it starts up right away. I drove around for a while and the car seemed fine. The next day, I went to start the car manually and the engine cranked halfway, then stopped. There was no clicking from the starter and all the electrical components(radio, lights, etc) were still working fine. I eventually got it started after trying for about 5 minutes, but it was an extremely rough start. Once the engine warmed up, it sounded smoother. My first assumption is the battery, as it's about 4 years old. It's probably not sending enough current to start the engine. But wouldn't all the electrical components die after attempting to start the car? It could possibly be the starter as it's never been replaced since the car was manufactured. Same applies to the alternator. Last assumption is that it's just so cold that the oil is too thick to properly lubricate the engine. (using 5w30 mineral). I'm going to be buying a new battery this week, but is there anything else I should be looking at? After researching some related topics here, I read that fuel delivery could be a problem. The fuel pump has never been replaced, but I always replace the filters regularly. Spark plugs and wires were changed about 70k km's ago with OEM parts from the dealership. As always, your help and insight is well appreciated. Cheers