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Found 11 results

  1. Hey everyone! I am swapping an EJ22 in my 1982 Brat GL and when I looked under my donor car (1991 Legacy) I realized that it was not all wheel drive (dumb mistake). I have decided to go with swapping the EJ22 engine and adapting it to the 4 speed transmission from my donor car. I thought this was an okay swap, but someone has told me that "the ej22 will burn through that 4 speed trans." I am apprehensive because I don't want to blow that transmission, but I also can't really afford another car/transmission/engine. Should I go through with the ej22 and 4 speed?
  2. I'm in the middle of an EJ22 swap with my 85 GL. I managed to pick up an engine, but did not get the whole donor car. I would like to know what wiring harness is needed for the swapped engine to run. Just from the ECU to the necessary engine components? Any help would be great!!! Thanks.
  3. Last week my 85 gl threw a rod. So now it's time for a new engine. I thought I might as well go ahead and do the EJ22 swap. I already have the engine out of a 97 Legacy. Anyone who has done this can you share some insight. I remember reading a post about the walk through of the swap awhile back, but I can't seem to find it now. I know I need the flywheel redrilled and a bell house adapter. What else am I going to need? Any mod to the stock engine mounts or will it line up. All the help you guys can share would be awesome.
  4. Hey everyone, My name is Tim and I'm a long time USMB reader, first time posting. Back in August of 2016 I picked up this sweet little stock 1982 Brat GL that had lived its life primarily in the Southwest, so very little rust. With fresh tires, light maintenance and a new front axle I drove the Brat daily from my home in the mountains about 40 miles round trip in to the city for work and it was great. I love older cars and the Brat has a ton of character. Anyway, after five months of daily commuting we experienced a cold snap and the stock 144K-old head gaskets blew. Here's a photo just days before that happened. After sitting down and budgeting a rebuild of the stock motor and considering a carb upgrade (mine has that terrible large single bore carter) I took two days and researched the EJ swap here on USMB and weighed the pros and cons. I ended up sending Scott at SJR an email and ordering his transmission adapter plate and redrilled flywheel while I began hunting for a parts car. After two months and three botched deals I bought a 1995 Legacy with front end damage, but not enough to make contact with the motor. We managed to bend the radiator core support enough to get a fresh radiator in there and I drove it 70 miles home with no issues. The white Brat in the picture kind of fell in to my lap, so I just took a few parts I needed and sold it, which paid for the Legacy. I pulled the motor and wiring, then sent the wiring to Scott to be thinned down and labeled so I stand a chance of doing this correctly Big thanks to Scott for all of his help so far! While Scott was doing his thing with the wiring my buddy Alex helped me get the EJ22 from the Legacy freshened up for what I am hoping are many trouble-free miles. This week all of the the SJR swap parts arrived and I am just waiting on a fuel pump and clutch to begin the swap. In the future I would like to make it a bit more truck-like with better ground clearance, but one step at a time.
  5. Hello Folks, I have had a very lucky find that I was able to purchase. It is a 1986 Brat with the EJ22 already swapped in. This car was purchased by the previous owner from someone in Florida. It had a lift kit and Peugot rims. It has a 5 speed all wheel drive transmission, how do i tell which transmission this is? There does not appear to be any custom driveshafts, is this possible? Also the guages work sporadically, Voltage and Temp drop to zero randomly. I am guessing there may be a bad ground somewhere. Anyone have experience with that? These are the only problems i have found so far, the car did pass inspection and I am enjoying driving it for short trips, loads of fun. Thanks
  6. But it is. Unfortunately. I'm sorry to ask but there is no one else in this world who has tried hard enough to get this to work. Unfortunately there is no spark. So here's the project. It's a EJ22T from a 93 Legacy (Auto) going into my 86 Brat (Manual) with a dual range 5 speed transmission from a 85 GL. I did not see this engine run as it was pulled out from a wrecking yard. Compression is solid. Only 165'000 km on the engine and it looks like it was dealership maintained. Everything is hooked up "properly" as so I've been told by what I would call "Subaru gurus". These are guys who have done numerous engine swaps before. Everyone has been amazingly enthusiastic, supportive and generous with this project as I could have imagined. It is all very much appreciated. However we can't figure out why shes not sparking. There is power to the coil. Coil has been checked of ohms and swapped out with three backups, they are all good. Plugs have been checked for ohms, they're good. Cam and Crank sensors have been checked for ohms, they are good and swapped again with checked and good sensors. Five grounds in the engine are good. ECU has been swapped three times and they are all good. It is grounded. Fuel pumps hard, fast and fresh. I'v had to replace a few connections due to old/dried out cracked wires but everything looks and tests good now! We're out of ideas now which is why I ask the godly experts of this board. Any thoughts or ideas are very much appreciated. Here are a couple galleries of the swap so far! http://imgur.com/a/EjDxS http://imgur.com/a/N6NzX
  7. I recently did an EJ22 swap in my car last december. When I did, I didnt route the vacuum lines to the psss correctly (so no cruise control) and didnt even bother to hook up the canister. The engine I used came out of a 98 impreza, so the canister for that is located at the rear of the car, whereas my legacy is right up front in the engine bay. I dont worry about it, drive with the cel on but with inspection coming up I need monitors to run, and they cant with the cel (and no evap/purge obviously). Codes I have: P1143 (something that deals with psss) P0441 (purge system incorrect flow) Car isnt currently running due to a faulty MAF sensor (dont use oil saturated-type air filters, even if they are OEM Subaru!) Was wondering if anyone has diagrams and/or experience that could help me figure out how to route the psss and purge/canister. Thanks!
  8. What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!
  9. Hey guys, first time poster long time reader. Title says it. Was cursing along and poof there goes the timing belt, heard squealing and immediately dropped the clutch to the floor, belt snapped and engine stopped silently and I glided to the shoulder. I've done a lot of reading and understand I have an interference engine and the chances of damaged valves are very high.. I have been doing a lot of thinking and have found a few options so I am seeking some advice. My options are: A) Replace timing belt and hope for the best B ) Assume damaged valves, remove heads and order new valves, gaskets, etc.. C) Assume damaged valves and replace heads with two used ones I sourced locally ($125 each + machining + gaskets) D) I also sourced an EJ22 locally for $600, it has considerably less km (116,000km) than mine (273,000km) but I would need a shop to do labour (cost??). E) Scrap it, buy a Yaris and cry myself to sleep I bought the car for $2000 from someone with no mechanical knowledge, I did a lot of work, wheel bearing, brakes, exhaust, etc.. and drove it clean across the continental US from British Columbia, down to Cali across to NY and back up to Nova Scotia. It worked like a dream! It's rust free and I'd like to see it on the road again! Needless to say id like to do this as cheaply as possible. I have never done anything this complex but I have the mechanical confidence to dive in. Any info or experiences will help. THANKS!
  10. Hello, I am putting a 1995 ej22 into a 1997 Outback that has a bad ej25 engine. My question is that the ej22 did not come with a set of exhaust manifolds. Will the exhaust manifolds from the ej25 fit the ej22 ? Thanks, Kevin
  11. This works w/all the non-EGR EJ22's (most manual cars from '95-98, and any '90-94 EJ22) and should work on the non-EGR JDM EJ25's, too, and doesn't require drilling/tapping the driver's-side cylinder head. (You'll need to get a single-port exhaust header/y-pipe for the '96-'98 EJ22.) BUT REQUIRES an EGR-equipped intake manifold ('95-98) from another EJ22. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve Edit: Also, the EJ18 from the Impreza should work. (Thanks to Matt167 for the reminder.) But be aware that it gives up 50Hp/Torque to the EJ25. This modification eliminates the EGR pipe that originally attaches to the EGR valve on the IM and the driver's side cylinder head. See pic (from EJ25, but same idea on EJ22): This REQUIRES an EGR-equipped intake manifold ('95-98), but changing the intake manifold (IM) isn't that tough, esp. w/the engine out (remember - the EJ22 SOHC and '96-'99 DOHC use different IM's- not interchangeable!). I don't know of anyone that's successfully bypassed the EGR valve by using a resistor or any other electrical modification. I've put over 2K miles on this and not had an issue. NO CEL/Check Engine Light. Car's MPG is still the same. Installation info: Overview of what I did: I ran a hose from the EGR valve and T'd into the IAC hose so the EGR valve sees flow...it doesn't care where it's from apparently. For the EGR valve connection, I found 2 fittings @ the ACE hardware store that fit together. I believe it's 3/4 that screws into the EGR valve on the IM, then a 1/4 barbed fitting. Put some thread tape on to seal it...it screwed in tight w/out any issues: I then ran short piece of PCV hose into a 90° elbow. PCV hose is same ID as the breather hose on the valve covers. Here's the EGR-side installed: From the elbow I ran another piece of PCV hose to a reducer fitting w/a short piece of PCV hose from the T-fitting in the IAC hose, as the IAC hose has a larger ID than the PCV hose I used. Final installation: So far, I've not had a CEL and car runs the same as before. (Don't tap into the breather hoses as you'll have blue smoke out the tailpipe! ) EDIT: I did this same mod on my '96 Legacy (bought 8/2015) when I used the EJ22T heads (no EGR port), and on 10/25/16 I got a P0400 EGR code. I cleared it and it came back next time I drove the car. I replaced the BPT - back pressure transducer - that sits on top of the EGR valve and has 4 vacuum lines connected - 3 on top; 1 underneath. No codes after a week's worth of driving. I used a TOYOTA part that I PullandSaved months/years ago. I guessed this was the issue, and it takes about a minute to swap it out. Thanks again for the input from everyone on here and to member 987687 for the idea. Td
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