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Showing results for tags 'bearings'.
Found 9 results
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Hey guys, it's me again Road trip was successful from Alaska to Southern California. Since I bought her in April, I've already put on 15,000 miles, including the road trip, passing the 250k mark. I've got to tackle an issue I've had over the summer to finally quiet down my front end. In May, I replaced both front cv joints, getting a new but not OEM part from Carquest/Advance auto (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv66011/20870575-P?). When I took apart the knuckle assembly, I remember having to hammer out the original axle shaft to get it freed. When I put in the new parts, they fit in loosely, but I pulled them through using the axle nut as leverage. The car sounded great after that, the axles and hubs were quiet. After a while, both sides started humming (like white noise) on turns, growing subtly louder as days, weeks, and months passed. I finally replaced the bearings on the passenger side at the suggestion of this forum. It didn't stop the humming, so I got lazy and didn't replace the bearings on the driver side. I did make sure the axle nut was at the proper torque. I researched on here some more, and read that when replacing the CV axles, one should replace the spring washers and cone washers. I found those parts OEM on ebay and replaced them. No change in the hum during turns. Again using this forum, I found that overtightening, loosening, overtightening, loosening and overtightning once again on the axle nut is one way to make sure everything is snug; that the bearings are self-torque-something-or-other, so over tightening doesn't burden them. The humming lessened when I did this, but never went away completely. During the road trip, both axle nuts backed off a tad, and were stopped by the cotter pins. I did the overtightening/loosening/etc bit three times during that 5k miles, and finally the nut seems to stay in place. I am still getting hums/white noise on both, but it's a bit louder on the driver side. I checked all four wheels for play, and the driver side had probably 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play up/down and left/right. The other three are fine. I took apart the driver side assembly to the rotor, and when I checked the spindle, it's just loose. I can feel the play in the hub, and when I push it, it can easily be moved out of the knuckle. According to installation instructions, the axle shaft should be pressed into the hub using one of those do-dads. I hate replacing the bearings, but I will probably go ahead and do that on the driver side just for good measure - but I doubt that it'll solve the problem since it is still happening on the passenger side. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckAnENBIwBo Any ideas on how to quiet down my front end? Thanks again for all your input! -
Hello everybody! I've recently picked up a 1994 Subaru Loyale for $200 - needed timing belts. I pulled the engine out of the car and did a complete gasket rebuild. While it was apart I noticed parts came out of the camshaft housing/assembly. The parts looked like some sort of oil pressure valve, a spring, a pipe, and a bolt. I did what little research I could and i believed i was able to correctly re-assemble the engine. Eventually got the car running, and I had a horrible ticking sound coming from the drivers side cam housing area. I read that it could be mis-seated rockers and that it could possibly go away with some driving, however mine didn't. engine died while idling and wouldn't start back up. I pulled the engine apart AGAIN only to find that my drivers side cam looks like it was never getting any oil, and seized. What would cause that cam not to get any oil and seize up? I have a new cam and housing ready to go in, but i'd like to make sure I don't have the same problem again. One other thing i noticed is when i pulled the camshaft housing off, oil was coming out of one of the bolt holes in the head. (where a bolt for the cam housing goes into) is this normal? I can post any pictures if anybody feels they would be helpful. just don't have any on this computer at the moment. I greatly appreciate any helpful tips, pointers and advice! I've replaced the following items. - Water pump - Oil pump (OEM straight from subaru) - Timing belts, tensioners and pulley - Full engine gasket set Thanks again!
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I see bits and pieces on other posts but can't find exactly what I need. I had my cylinder heads rebuild at the machine shop. I need a timing kit (looks like gates is the consensus here), rings and bearings, head gaskets (I can get wholesale price on Fel-pro at Napa), and a complete engine gasket set. The machine shop is quoting $600.00 and it's mostly JDM parts. There are so many cheap sets on Ebay that I don't know where to buy. Are Cometic any good. I have read yes and no. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am looking for stock performance with good reliability. -
Howdy folks, long time lurker here, finally piping up with some questions. I’ve recently acquired a Gen 1 Brat with an EA81 motor and tranny swap. Things are running fine and it’s currently on the road, but I’m looking to drive it from Las Vegas back home to Toronto in a couple of months time when my current gig ends. To do so, I’m trying to compile a list of everything I’m gonna need to replace, acquire, fix and torque down. I’m hoping the USMB can help me out on this front as I try to get everything sorted out. First on the list, I’d like to replace the front axles - the boots on both are completely shot. I’ve read here that a lot of folks prefer having their original axles rebuilt rather than buying replacements. For my purposes, I’ll certainly hold on to my originals for future use, but to drive across the country, I’ll be looking to swap in some new ones. Word on the street is that EMPI have decent build quality, do Gen 1’s and Gen 2’s share the same axle assembly? Rockauto seems to suggest they don’t but it’s not totally clear. Do folks at USMB have a preferred vendor for EMPI? Lastly, if I’m replacing the axles I feel like I might as well do the wheel bearings too - is there anything else that falls in the same category of “might as well replace it” while the wheels and axles are off? I’ve got many more questions as I look to drop a weber on it, delete the EGR, tune up the cooling, switch over to Pertronix from points and possibly upgrade the alternator to a GM, but for now, any guidance regarding my axles and associated upgrades would be tremendously appreciated. Lastly, here’s a pic for those of you that are interested.
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Hey all, I'm replacing the front wheel bearings on my 1990 Loyale wagon, and found that I am missing the spacer that sits between the bearings. I need to replace asap as this is my daily driver but can't find a spacer anywhere but online. I'm assuming this is the route I will have to take but would be incredibly happy if I could find one sooner. The part # is 723238000. Does anyone have any suggestions about getting one of these quickly? I rarely post but wanted to thank those that do. You guys have saved me so much time and money and I have learned so much in the year I've had my Loyale. -Thanks -
I'm trying to nurse along a 2002 Outback with 260,000 miles. I just looked and its manufacture date is 9/00. Should I be looking at a bracket of years, like 2000-2002? I searched for the part at car-part.com and it lists other years as well as 2002. Which ones are interchangeable? -
On the rear axel is there just one bearing per side and it is wide like the picture below? When I converted my drums to disks the right side looked a little on the dry side or lacking grease. Of course this was blocking my view of the lack there of, and of course this took me a few tries of putting the disc and hub on to see that it was holding me away from having proper placement of the caliper......... Anyway just one bearing per side?
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I've been putting off replacing the front, driver's side bearings on my 89 4WD wagon for about a month now. The howling/grinding noise was pretty unmistakable. I researched the forum here before diving in to see what bearings were best suited for the job. As luck would have it there are some great resources here. Most notably, some info about going 'sealed'. I'd never considered the option of using sealed bearings and thought it would be cost-prohibitive. Well, if sealed bearings truly are better, it's not cost prohibitive if you ask me. Especially when you consider the job in the full context. Frankly, I hate grease. Gas doesn't bug me, brake fluid is fine, oil is no problem. Grease sucks. So, if I can avoid grease again, I'll be fine with a few bucks more for some bearings that are sealed. Anyway, I'm running open bearings on the passenger side now and sealed on the driver. I'll likely replace the passenger side soon but really I'm just trying to test the sealed units. Does anyone have long-term results on the sealed units? As for the cost... Part # AXS 6207 2RSC3 from McGuire Bearing Company runs 12.79 Each "Precision" open bearings from NAPA run 8.99 Each I'm assuming that since I'm using sealed units there's no need to run grease in the hub anymore and that may also mean the inner and out grease seals are probably less important now too. I don't think I would run without them obviously, but I suspect that it's not as critical to replace them if they're in 'okay' condition since the bearings are sealed. Anyone want to chime in with some pros/cons on this issue? If sealed works out, I'm never going back to grease and cheap NAPA open bearings again. -
I bought my 1st Subaru this past december ('12) with 220,000 miles. ($4300) I had it checked by my mechanic and didn't have any major problems, other than timing belt had no record of replacement. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced. ($1000) I changed the oil in late dec with no issues present. mid january I overheated. assuming I had just lost coolant, I refilled it and continued driving within a few days it happened again and I took it in to my mechanic who told me I had a leaky upper radiator hose. I replaced it that next weekend (3 days max) and after I was done replacing it checked my oil. I saw a green tint and a slime that I have since heard called a "milkshake". I grounded it and it has sat almost 2 months. I have endeavored to replace my head gaskets. I have removed everything above the engine block and removed the dual exhaust below. I drained my oil and it was terrible. it really did look exactly like a chocolate shake. I'm at a decision point and I'm looking for advice. I really can't back away from this car now, I have to much invested. I can either continue and replace the gaskets like originally planned, but I'm afraid I ruined my bearings due to the overheating with bad lubrication. or I could spend the $2000-$2500 to have my engine bored out and have the gaskets replaced or I could find an engine like this one http://www.gearheadengines.com/CrateEngines for $3300 Any advice?
