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Found 6 results

  1. My wife's 2003 base model Outback 2.5L Auto, AWD, U.S. model 146K miles. The front right caliper is dragging. Dealer says it needs replaced to the tune of caliper, pads, rotor( gouged ) about $600. I'm willing to tackle it myself. My question after determining it doesn't just need cleaned & lubed if I replace is there a good aftermarket caliper & rotor? Also recommendation for pads. A new Subaru caliper is $300. I can get a salvage yard caliper with 60K miles and 6 months warranty for $59. Is that a better option than the typical Autozone / Advanced caliper? I just saw that Rock Auto has remanufactured Subaru calipers by Cardone & Raybestos. Are these ok? My wife doesn't put a ton of miles on this car. She drives 90 miles to work, stays there for the week and returns home. So about 800 miles/month. Do I need to replace the left side which is operating just fine for balance? I need to get my wife back on the road soon. Also any tips for the replace & bleeding are appreciated. Thank you so much, Dave in PA
  2. I just bought a 2004 Forester with 16" aluminum wheels and it is in need of a little work. First thing on the list is new brakes. Rather than just replacing the factory rotors and a new set of pads are there any simple upgrades that can be done, front and rear. I have read that 06-07 WRX rotors and calipers might bolt right on. However I have not read a definite answer to this. Has anyone here done a similar upgrade? I am looking for simple bolt on, no modifications and I don't want to brake the bank. Thanks
  3. Researching replacing brake pads on my '93 Legacy, FWD with 14" wheels, I kept running across instructions to remove the "two" 14 mm slide pin bolts. More research and I learned the single piston calipers before 1995 have only one 14 mm slide pin bolt (the lower slide pin.) The upper pin does not bolt from the inboard side of the caliper. Instead, it is a 12 mm bolt attached to the caliper bracket. When changing pads, videos show removing lower 14 mm bolt, then pivot caliper up, compress piston, lube lower slide pin, install new pads, pivot caliper back down and re-insert & tighten lower 14 mm slide pin bolt, and pump up brakes before driving. If rotors are not being replaced or re-faced it appears there's no reason to remove the caliper bracket. But if the bracket containing the upper slide pin is not removed, there is no way to check and lube the upper slide pin. My question is not so much about whether to re-face or replace rotors. I'm prepared to do either if needed. My question is more about whether one should always remove the caliper bracket from the car when doing a pads-only job to inspect and lube the upper slide pin on these calipers where the upper pin is bolted to the caliper bracket? I have attached an exploded view of the 1993 front brakes. The upper slide pin is part #8. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
  4. Hello all, Last summer, after driving on the highway, I heard a squealing sound coming from the passenger front wheel. The next day when driving around 40 mph the wheel locked. I was able to steer it onto the side of the road. The caliper was seized up and I was able to pry it loose. I drove it a few feet and realized I would need a tow. The tow truck was a flat-bed wrecker and pulled the car up onto the bed. While the car was being pulled the locked wheel popped loudly one time and began spinning freely. I was able to roll it backwards into my driveway. This summer I finally got around to working on the vehicle. I purchased new Beck/Arnley loaded calipers, rotors, and hydrolic hoses. I drained the old fluid with a Mytivac and installed new fluid. I tested the ebrake and it does not feel as tight as it was before. I also did a Weber 32/36 conversion which is almost finished. I just have to figure out how to adjust the idle and check my pcv lines for proper routing. The car started up and when I attempted to drive it felt like the wheels were locking up very similalry to when the vehicle felt after it initially ran when I tried to drive it before I called the tow-truck. I had the bearing relaced a couple of thousand miles ago from a very reputable shop, and I am at a loss on what to start working on next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  5. 1992 Subaru Loyale My left front calliper seized today while driving through Vancouver. I am here intermittently for the next month. Does anyone have a parts car around these parts? I could use a new calliper and master cylinder. Thanks, Brian
  6. I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic
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